SUMMARY:
Records a male Leptopoecile s. obscura at Singhi Dzong. Ludlow notes that the hillsides on both banks of the Ruru Chu are very stony, with artemisias the only plants thriving.

CONTENT:

2322. 5.9.33. ♂ Leptopoecile s. obscura. Singhi Dzong.

      Ludlow the hillsides on both banks
      of the Ruru Chu are very
      stony & the only plants to
      thrive on them are artemisias

SUMMARY:
The diarist records plant collections and observations, noting poor weather but good flowers, and a promising valley toward the Chachu La with yak shelters and a large lake. While halted in camp, they receive mail from Betty via Wangmo’s servant to Bumthang and send replies; they also collect the first seeds of the year. On 3rd July they make a long day trip to Tolegang, pressing 18 specimens including Primula waddellii.

CONTENT:
1st July: Saxifraga brunoniana 19270.
Rhod. calderianum 19277.
Streptopus simplex 19280.
Cardiocrinum giganteum 19284.

...for a few nice things, the best being what I think is a Buddleia, but if so, it's a much bigger flower than B. colvilei (19272) which it somewhat resembles. Lil. giganteum is also common down the valley, and Briggsia (B. muscicola 19266), on a tree, is rather nice. A miserable day for weather, but a good day for flowers.

2nd July. Halt. In camp, and fine in the morning after a night of very heavy rain indeed. From what I saw of the valley towards the Chachu La, it is good. But one would have to spend a night or two up there. There are two yak herds' shelters, one at 13500, and one above 14500 just near the biggest lake I have seen in Bhutan. That would be a good place. There are magnificent cliffs all around, and I did get two nice saxs from the only cliffs I visited. But primulas, other than calderiana and umbratilis were scarce. P. umbratilis is common at 14500 and rather paler. I saw one white one, and hope it may mean that real white ones are close. If we can't get good places in Haubung, we must return there. A mail from Betty came in on 30th night, very surprisingly, sent by Wangmo's servant to Bumthang. So I have written letters to Betty and Wangmo, to go off today if possible — or at any rate tomorrow. We collected the first of this year's seed — P. atrodentata. This is always the first to seed, and unless one takes it soon, it is likely to be eaten by yaks.

3rd July. Halt. Went to Tolegang, and had a day with hardly any rain, but a long one. Left at 6.0 am and back at 5.0 pm rather tired, but with 18 flowers (19330) in the press, some good ones amongst them, including Primula waddellii, which I had forgotten was so very pink and different in colour from P. tenuiloba. There can be no mistaking the two. After reaching the lake, we turned up right...

SUMMARY:
Diary describes a fine-weather traverse from below Karpo over Sokpo Pass with steep shale and scree, turning near Chioling and reaching a yak encampment at the foot of Mihrang La; the route recalls Tulung La. Botanical notes include several gentians and Swertia; one young Cremophilum was shot and bharal were seen, with identifications discussed with Sherriff. The following day begins with a steep ascent to Mihrang La from camp between Cha La and Chorten Namo.

CONTENT:
12th August. Camp beyond Sokpo La, 15,000 feet, 8 miles. Fine all day,
clouds and sun. Route lies up the valley immediately below Karpo
towards the North East. Ascent easy up the right bank. At mile 1 1/2, a
valley enters from the right-hand side on the left bank. The main
stream is crossed here and the side valley followed. The route soon
becomes very steep and continues so to the top of the pass, the
last 300 feet being over loose, very steep shale. Sokpo Pass
at mile 5 (17,000 feet). Descent on the east side is steep at first over loose scree,
then easy over grass down a broad valley. At mile 7, the
valley turns towards S. Chioling. This is left and another
valley followed up. At the foot of the Mihrang La, a yak encampment at about mile 8. A
beautiful day and a really stiff pass, much reminding me of
the Tulung La (Gen. kherica). Gentian 1983 was very common and the flowers
were open (Gen. waltonii 2028). P. rotundifolia, the Kashong La one I think, was fairly
common (Swertia multicaulis 2029). G. waltonii goes to nearly 14,000 feet. Shot one young
Cremophilum (Ph. pectinibunda 2030) and saw two herds of bharal. The little gentian
2034 (Gent. punctulata - Sherriff says 2035 = Gen. marquandii?) is very common at camp here.

(Mile from summit of Cha La)
13th August. Camp between Cha La and Chorten Namo, 15,000 feet, 7 miles. Route up
a broad grassy valley, keeping left-handed to mile 2, then to the east up
an extremely steep shale ridge to Mihrang La at mile 2 1/2 (17,000 feet). Descent at...

SUMMARY:
Entries describe heavy rain, leeches at 10,000 ft, and travel to Tobrang followed by a steep ascent to East Pangola camp at 11,500 ft. The party caught Bhutan Glory butterflies, received mail from Bumthang with photos to Paro, and noted poor camping space and dense jungle.

CONTENT:
at 10000 ft. we are back in the leech zone, as I found on taking my stockings off - four leeches hard at it. Rained hard all afternoon - air damp, everything damp or rather beastly.

12th August. TOBRANG. To 7700 6 miles. Rain nearly all day, but cleared up for an hour when we reached Tobrang. and we were lucky in catching about ten Bhutan Glory butterflies. Unexpected mail in from Bumthang, with it our photos. up to Paro. Coolies were complete today, and got in in good time.

13th August. CAMP. East Pangola 11500 6 miles. Route leaves Tobrang and ascends very steeply direct up the hillside away from the river. For the first three miles, it is very steep over grass through a broad clearing in the forest. From mile 3-4 1/2 path is muddy and bad and very steep through dense jungle. At mile 4 1/2 a level ridge is reached and followed for a few hundred yards: then path, again fairly steep, continues through dense jungle to camp. There are no inhabitants or houses, and very little camping space. Water good. Walking up in the sunshine to the forest was very hot work. Later we got into the mist and shade of the trees. Shortly after 11.0 rain came on and kept on for the rest of the day. Not much of a camp. and nothing to be seen, partly because of dense jungle and partly

Butter

SUMMARY:
The diarist reads Cooper's article and concludes specimen 1166 is a Primula petiolaris, collects three young buds to send via air mail from Trashigong, and notes widespread smoke from jhumming across Bhutan. On 13 March they travel from Sanden to the Nyakhsung La, encountering snow, taking bearings, and searching for seeds, with primulas flowering at around 14,000 ft.

CONTENT:
did not see them. Reading Cooper's article in the New Flora and Silva, it appears that 1166 is a petiolaris primula. I have taken three young buds, if they reach Trashigong alright, I will send them off by air mail. The wind this evening has died down completely, and the smoke from 'jhumming' has come up over the hills everywhere, so that one can only see a couple of miles. This morning I noticed the pall of smoke all over Bhutan, it must have risen to a height of over 16,000 ft, out of which the bigger snow peaks were dimly seen.

13th March. Sanden. 10 miles. 9,800'. I left at 6:00 am and took two hours to reach the Nyakhsung La. There was a lot of snow on the path, which leads up a nala to the north east just beyond Mera, then turns more north and along a north face. The first two miles are fairly steep, the next two easy and more level. A round of bearings from the pass did not help to put Mera on the map much. On the pass around about, I spent two or three hours, looking for seeds of flowers. The primula is interesting. It was in flower at 14,000 ft., and it continued

[Marginal notes: Nyakhsung La; Primula denticulata 1176; Primula capitata 1177; Primula gracilipes 1178]

SUMMARY:
Diary entries describe a difficult march through dense, muddy rhododendron jungle with steep ascents to Pang La (c. 14,000') and a descent to camp near SAWANG, followed by a steep drop to a bridge over the Khoma Chu and an easy ascent along the river to SAWANG. Plant collecting at Pang La yielded few notable finds, and the day was hampered by thick mist; leeches were bad near SAWANG.

CONTENT:
because of equally dense mist.

(4) 14th August. CAMP NEAR SAWANG. 12 miles. West of Pang La 9000'. Path continues through dense jungle, but ascent easy to m 1 1/2 where ridge is crossed. Thence level for a while through scrub jungle, gradually becoming steeper, with a ridge on the right hand side. At m 3 it becomes steep for a short distance, then easy to m 4 1/2 where there is a cairn. We ploughed our way through mud in dense rhodo jungle for 1500'. Beyond this path is partly over rocks & partly through rhododendron jungle, easy at first then very steep final ascent to Pang La (14000') at m 5 1/2. Descent for 1/2 m easy then pretty steep, with cliff running on right hand side. At m 7 dense jungle is reached, & thence path is very bad & exceedingly steep & muddy through jungle the whole way till it emerges at m 12, the first signs of cultivation are seen. Below is the Khoma Chu, and over it SAWANG. Small camp, water & fuel good & ample. //

Pang La. 14 Aug.
Aconitum fletcherianum 462
Cremanthodium thomsonii - 461
Primula 464
Begonia josephii 466
Flora disappointing

(5) 15th August. TO SAWANG. 4 miles. 7700'. Path drops very steeply indeed through dense jungle for 2 miles to bridge over Khoma Chu (6800'). Here the path joins the main road from Lhuentse over the Yeb La. This bridge is very old & not strong. Route then ascends easily along through hot steamy forest R. bank of river to first cultivation at SAWANG. Water & fuel ample: leeches bad. //

Yesterday was about the worst day we've had. We did not have rain till about 3.0 pm when our tents were in, but there was thick mist all day, so we saw no view at all. And there should have been wonderful views from that range. The map is so completely wrong as

SUMMARY:
After a 10-mile march to Menjisi in windy weather, the writer receives letters from Betty via Trinley and notes serious delays to H.H.'s stores sent from Lhuntse, affecting travel plans to Bumthang. Kapo is treating many syphilis patients with limited drugs, while reports mention Tshering doing well, Hicks being tired, the finding of P. Normaniana, a planned route via Ungar and Pimi, concerns from Tobgye about the Treaty and the Maharaj Kumar, and news from Norman regarding a problematic sale to Mintri.

CONTENT:
15th May Menjisi. 10 miles. Wet in the night, but fine today locally and with a very strong wind. I had a long talk with Kapo yesterday, who came in the morning and again for dinner. He gave me a letter from Betty, brought by Wangmo's Trinley. Incidentally H.H.'s large box of stores, sent off from Lhuntse on 4th to Betty, had only got 1 day's march from Lhuntse by May 11th. I don't know what had happened. That has held up other things too, as H.H.'s man cannot return to Bumthang till he has an answer from Betty. Kapo seems to be busy with his syphilis patients, who are a great many. But he finds difficulty in keeping them in Lhuntse. Also he cannot get other drugs for H.H. for other diseases. I gave him what I could spare. It was grand to hear again from Betty, though her letter was written some time ago. They seem to have done fairly well, and have also found P. Normaniana. Tshering doing well, and Hicks seemingly tired. I hope he can stand it all. We left at 5:15 this morning and got in about 10:30. This is a much better division of the marches - Lhuntse, Menjisi - Ungar - Pimi, and I must tell Betty to do the same. We passed another dak today and took ours out on Betty's unopened. This was a bigger one and was sent from K'pong on 29th April. I had several letters from Tobgye, worried about the Treaty and also the Maharaj Kumar's behaviour to him. He has not been at all kind, and his behaviour towards Tobgye is disgusting and disgraceful. I hope now that he will not get Kaysang, who is far too good for him. Norman's letter says that he is off, and he also thinks there may be difficulty about selling Crocket to Mintri, who is a slimy individual. Among other things sent to me is a will which I witnessed many years ago. It is sent in original, and I have to

SUMMARY:
The diarist travels from Changphu to Chumkarah and on to Pinshogong and Hach, crossing the Bhutan–Tibet boundary near Jangphu, aided by mules from the Trashigang Dzongpon. They collect more Albizzia sherriffii seeds, note fruit sent by the Dzongpon, observe otters, visit a new Dzong, and receive a warm welcome from Dzongpon Dopola while mail arrangements via Basu Pradhan remain unresolved. Weather is noted as improving after rain, with hot conditions in the valley.

CONTENT:
To Changphu
16th November, JAMGPHU. Rain yesterday evening and last night. Fine and bright today. Changed transport twice, but everything ready for us. It is a long climb up from the bridge to Jangphu, the last 2 miles being more or less level. Three mules were sent to meet us, but only for the level stretch, so we all had a good sweat. Hills much drier here, being barer and more cultivated. The boundary of Bhutan with Tibet is crossed 300 yards W of Jangphu — a small very insignificant little valley. Oranges I'm glad to say are ripe, or near enough so to be eaten, and are very good after a climb like today's.

To Chumkarah
17th November, Chumkarah. Clouded and a little rain at night: fine all day. We are getting almost too civilized now. People turn out to meet us, tea is produced by the roadside, and camping grounds are prepared. I would rather just be allowed to wander along. However it is nice to have the Trashigang Dzongpon's mules here to help us on our way. I have hardly ridden at all since we left Kalimpong in Feb. — only on 3 or 4 days for a short while. But here it is hot, and a mule will be very nice to have. Changed transport once again today.

I could not find the original tree of Albizzia Sherriffii, although I recognized the place, but took more seeds again today, so surely should have it by now. The Dzongpon sent some pears, bananas and oranges, which are just what the doctor ordered for this hot valley. I hear that there is still no mail in Trashigang, so again our arrangements have gone wrong, though why I cannot think. I wrote to PM Kumarikata Basu Pradhan in August, and Tobgye has forwarded our letters to the latter.

To Trashigong Dzong
18th November, Pinshogong. Fine and very hot. On the way, I spotted three otters having a great time in the river, always keeping together, and hunting for a few minutes, then joining up on to the hot sandy beach and rolling and playing about. Owing to a cliff I could not get very close, but took a tele-cine picture of them. Went and saw the new Dzong, which is a fine building and seems well designed. Then came on here about 3.0 pm, for a very warm welcome from the Dzongpon Dopola. Rained pretty hard at night.

19th November, Hach. Fine all day. Stayed in camp, and talked to the Dzongpon. He says the same

SUMMARY:
The diarist reset a damaged aneroid using the known height of Singhi Dzong, endured rain, and recounts leech bites involving both the writer and Ludlow. On 18th August they went 2 miles to Narim Thang (13,900 ft), the path passing the Dzong through fir forest before a steep climb to the plateau with rhododendron but no fir.

CONTENT:
towering cliffs close in on all sides. We are just at the
end of the fir trees. Yesterday I dropped and displaced
part of the aneroid, but managed to get it right today:
only the readings will now not be continual, as I had
to reset to the known height of Singhi Dzong. A most
annoying thing to have happened. As soon as we
reached camp the rain came on hard, and it went on
all evening. Today I had what I hope will be
my last leech bite. He got through my long boots
somehow. When Ludlow saw it he rather laughed, and said I
should wear breeches, not shorts, then they wouldn't get at
me, and went on to say how lucky he had been with leeches.
However I had the laugh on him, as when he took his
boots and socks off, there was a fine fat one in his sock, which
had had its fill. A leech injects something first, to make the
blood run or keep it from coagulating, and this seems to
affect Ludlow more than me. It was some hours before the
bite stopped bleeding.

18th August. NARIM THANG. 2 miles. 13900'. Path passes the Dzong,
and keeps at first steep up through fir forest, some distance from
the Narim Thang river, on the R. bank. After 1/2 mile not so
steep, it climbs very steeply over open hillside to the
plateau of Narim Thang at m 2. Here there is ample
rhododendron wood but no fir. The plain of Narim Thang

SUMMARY:
Notes quote Ludlow’s plan to work the Tawang Chu and Nyam Jang Chu basins in Tibet and revisit the Trashi Yangsi Valley. Permission was granted by the Maharaja and late-May sanction came from the Tibetan Government, prompting a rapid approach via the Dewangiri–Tawang Trade Route through the eastern Duars. The itinerary records travel from Srinagar to Dewangiri and onward to Trashigong in late June 1934.

CONTENT:
10

Ludlow: "our plans are to work the basins of the Tawang Chu & Nyam Jang Chu in Tibet & then revisit our old haunts in the Trashi Yangsi Valley." P. 8

Ludlow. Ser. 13
In our 1933 journey East Bhutan had attracted us greatly. Botanically & ornithologically it seemed to offer a favourable field for further investigation. In 1934 ...
Permission to return to Bhutan was readily given by His Highness the Maharaja but it was not until late May that we received sanction from the Tibetan Government to cross the province of Mönyul.

Season being well advanced it was imperative to reach our collecting grounds without delay. The quickest road thither was by the Dewangiri - Tawang Trade Route & this we decided to take although we knew we were running considerable risks in attempting to penetrate the fever belt of the eastern Duars at this season of the year.

Lud. Ser. 14
Journey from Srinagar on 13 June to Dewangiri reached 22 June.
Dewangiri to Trashigong - reached 29 June.