Part 115 - Trek to Lamdo and reunion at Tse with plans for Tsela Dzong

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SUMMARY:
The diarist recounts a misty, strenuous climb over a pass and a long descent to Lamdo in the Tsangpo valley, meeting Paka Kusho on arrival and later hosting Shaka Kusho while awaiting news of Ludlow and the mail. On 31 July at Tse they reunite with Ludlow, confirm all servants are well, and plan to stay until the 7th before proceeding to Tsela Dzong on the 8th–9th, with Ludlow, Taylor, and the diarist separating on the 10th.

CONTENT:
mist, rain, and I was a bit hazy about the way we turned to. But we went on up to the top, a very steep climb of over 4,500'. Here there was a small pass, which the Hopa said was the place we should aim for, and he said he knew the path down the other side. It would take us out to the Tsangpo valley at Lamdo. Later on he said we would come out near Tse. That would have done too, but we eventually spotted the Tsangpo and to our horror, found we were 3 or 4 miles below Tsela Dzong. That meant a walk in of about 8 miles. We left camp in the morning at 5:15, and did not reach camp at Lamdo till 6:30 pm, having walked steadily for all but an hour of the time. I expected to be able to sit down and rest and have my tea and dinner in peace anyway. But on arrival I saw the Paka Kusho all dressed up waiting for me. So we sat down and talked and eventually he produced a dinner and we went on talking away till 9:30 at night, by which time I was just as tired as I could be. Our long trek was a disappointment too, as we found very little, chiefly I think because we could see so little in the thick mist. No news of Ludlow yet, and no news of the mail. But I expect both will be pretty well up to time. In the valley we came down yesterday—the first big one beyond Tsela Dzong on the South—there were a few plants of the big Meconopsis I found on Gonyi-re. All were in seed. They had probably been brought down from higher up by avalanches.

Today 30th, it has rained off and on pretty hard all day. Shaka Kusho had a tent beside mine, and stopped the night, and offered breakfast in the morning. But I refused that, so he stayed on till midday and gave me lunch. I have stayed in camp all day, done a few remaining photographs, cut my hair and generally cleaned myself up. I can't bathe, as I haven't a camp bath. I have sent a chit to meet Ludlow and hope for an answer this evening or in the morning, unless Ludlow has gone off to the North of the river, which is quite possible.

reunited - L, S & T. See Ludlow III - 112.

31st July. Tse. 4 miles. Ludlow sent up this afternoon to say he was in Tse, and would I come down there, so I went, and we all met about 5:00 pm. They called it the 30th, making the same mistake as I did when we all left Molo. We decided to stay here till the 7th, then Tsela Dzong 8th–9th, leaving, Ludlow one way, Taylor and I another, on 10th. All servants seem very fit, and very talkative too.