Part 125 - Travel from Kotakha to Chendesi via Phobsikha over Suele, Tsele and Chele La

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SUMMARY:
The diarist reports fleas from bamboo mats, notes Lilium nepalense and collects fine Podocarpum seed while traveling from Kotakha across Suele La and Tsele La into the Phobsikha valley, then planning and taking the Chele La toward Rukusi and Chendesi amid disputes with coolies and route advice from locals. News arrives that Ludlow has sent Dawong back to Bumthang with a bad leg.

CONTENT:
Too many fleas in it, from the bamboo mats supplied by locals. Nothing of interest seen on the way, except we noticed that there are some Lilium nepalense, though not many. Kotakha is about 2½ miles beyond the Muele La, on the left bank of the wide valley. This valley here is called the Pausa Chu, and the headman says that lower down it is called the Biameshu Chu, which is marked on the map.

27th August. Issa in Phobsikha valley. Very heavy rain last night, but it was to a clear sky at last that we woke up, and set off at 5.0 am. It remained fine except for some showers till the evening. This is the first sun we have seen since I left Betty at 10.30 on the Hala-Kyu La. The ascent to the Suele La was easy in climbs, but the wind was really awful and very difficult to deal with. The pass is about 10500-11000' and about 5 miles from Kotakha. Descent easy into another broad open valley. Path skirts the top of this, keeping up pretty well. It then climbs easily again to the Tsele La at about mile 10. It is again about 11000'. Descent into the Phobsikha valley not very steep, and path comes down half way between Phobsikha and Gonte Gompa. I could not find where we were supposed to go. We had been told Gonte, but coolies insisted in coming here. The locals want us to go over the pass north of Gonte, which would mean we could not reach Chendesi tomorrow. I have refused to go that way, and we will go over another pass, the Chele La to Rukusi. Got very fine seed of Podocarpum today. No flowers at all.

28th August Chendesi - I got in at 1.0, but Tupden had to stay for one miserable coolie who did not turn up and is very late. He had to change twice, once only 3 miles away, and again at Rukusi. The pass, the Chele La, about 12000', was not bad at all, but the path this side is very poor. No news from Ludlow, but it seems he has had to send Dawong back to Bumthang with a very bad leg. He is