Part 63 - Shö to Shirap via Mo La: route and botanical notes

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SUMMARY:
Travel notes describe the route over the Mo La toward Lhuntse, observations around Shö and Bung with terraced cultivation, a possible pass to Cyandro, and contrasts between the wooded hills south of the Char Chu and the drier side. A report from Sanga Choling mentions Tibetan funerary practices involving the river. On 8 August at Shirap (14000', 11 miles), the weather improved and several alpine plants were noted, with some barley cultivation above the tree line.

CONTENT:
about m. 1, where a bridge leads over to the R. bank then over the Mo La to Lhuntse. Nothing of interest in flower, but many of the big gentian (G. waltonii?) all the way up here on the dry hillside. Shö is a big place, even bigger than Bung with a great deal of terraced cultivation and several small villages amongst the fields. By going up the valley to the E of the Mo La one can get over a pass to Cyandro. The hills to the S. of the Char Chu look very inviting, all wooded with fir and rhododendron. This side is too dry and only has small shrubs on it. The Char Chu is still pretty big. I heard at Sanga Choling that all dead Tibetans are thrown into the river. So there, besides drinking its very muddy water, we were also drinking a kind of infusion of dead bodies. However it tasted alright, and we are none the worse.

8th August. Shirap. 14000' 11 miles. A lovely day, misty in the morning, then brighter as the day wore on. Nothing much at first but masses of G. waltonii in bud. Then a fine Campanula (robusta?), Cyananthus incanus, Gentiana detonsa. This is a beautiful place, above the tree zone, but with a little barley cultivation.