Part 57 - Route to Tsona via Chio Tso and Dending La; Kurhip falls ill

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SUMMARY:
The party travels north past Chio Tso and Kachen Tso, descends to an old lake bed, ascends to Dending La, and then down to Tsona, noting a hot spring near the Dzong, barley cut green for winter fodder, and good grazing. Kurhip becomes ill with a cold fever and is left with Danong while the others push on in cold rain to reach Tsona at 5 pm; the Dzongpen provides the best available room despite poor conditions.

CONTENT:
North over open country with dwarf rhododendron scrub. At m 9 the CHIO TSO is passed - a large lake 1 1/2 to 2 miles long. This drains, like the Kachen Tso to the NYAMBANG CHU. Beyond this there is an easy descent to an old lake bed at m 11. The outlet of this, leading to the East, is passed at m 12. Thence an easy ascent along the side of the hill to the DENDING LA at m 14. Thence descent down a small valley to TSONA village at m 16. The Dzong is one mile beyond, to the north of the plain. Just below the Dzong is a hot spring, the water of which is too hot to hold the hand in. Barley is grown cut green for cattle fodder in the winter. Village of 60-100 houses. Good grazing for yaks and sheep all around it.

Our bad luck still follows us. When only 2 miles out, Kurhip, who has not been too fit lately, had to give up. When he stopped he was shaking with a cold fever. We left him with Danong - plenty of clothes and medicine and pushed on, getting in at 5.0 pm. It again rained the whole way, and was very cold indeed. Tsona is a filthy place, and we were given the best room - as foul as a room could very well be. However we realised that the Dzongpen was one to please, and had done what he could for us. Kit came in at odd hours, some at