Part 111 - Meeting with Dzongpen and departure from Yangtso, 17 May 1952

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SUMMARY:
The party negotiates passage with an elderly Dzongpen (father of the acting official), who promises limited pony transport and sealed letters to Kome and Koto, while the diarist sends letters to Surkhang Dzasa and to Darjeeling. On 17 May at Yangtso they depart with yak transport, seen off by Pedong Dorji, and note clear views of Yala Shampo, lake birds, and herds of kyang and gazelle.

CONTENT:
At first, they said no British or Bhutanese could pass this way without a sealed passport of the T.G. The Dzongpens were very sticky too. The other Dzongpen said the locals were all Drokpas and only owned five, with no transport. But we settled down and asked the Dzongpen—really the father of the real man—to come see us. He came, an old man of 62, with no teeth. He was full of life and fun and is one of the few Tibetans who have done things. He's been all over East Tibet, to India with the 13th Dalai Lama, to China, to Ladakh, to Monyul, and everywhere else. He talked so fast that we could not get a word in anywhere. He talked so loud that he could be heard 100 yards away. But he was a good soul, and was most friendly and helpful. He would provide transport for us, with only 2 ponies, as there are no more there, and he would give us sealed letters to Kome and Koto, where the Takhar Tengba Dzongpen would find us a change of transport. Although we have "Dzongyel", we have to change there. He was a most lively and entertaining old man, who kept us thoroughly amused for more than half an hour. After he went, there was a marked change in the Dzongpen's behaviour. The old boy leaves for Lhasa on the 17th, and I gave him a letter for Surkhang Dzasa saying I had come here, and several for Darjeeling too.

17th May. Yangtso. 11 miles. A beautiful day, with a few heavy showers round about. Pedong Dorji saw us off at 7:30, all arrangements being good. He will go back today to Chong-gye Dzong. He has been a help and a good friend. We had yak transport which came on well. To the east, the fine peak of Yala Shampo (20,230') was very clear this evening. The lake here is beautiful, and has a good many birds on it: gulls, terns, brahminy geese, pochard, and redshanks. On the main Triju plain were many kyang and several gazelle. Further up this way we saw more gazelle, one herd having 15 in it. They were not frightened.

In car with young husband 17/5/52