Part 158 - Kyimpu to Chayul Dzong via Nyeron: seed collecting and local encounters

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SUMMARY:
Notes describe packing issues near S. Chöling, hospitality from Ama Ayalmo, and a report that Tenduk collected seedlings up the Drichu-chu. Entries for early November cover travel from Kyimpu to Nyeron and on to Chayul Dzong with seed collecting (including Gentiana waltonii, Primula spp., and a new Fritillaria), weather observations, and dealings with Dzongpens and passports.

CONTENT:
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About S. Chöling ran as far as Chunchar. It was hard on them having to do this, they should have been told to leave what they had at S. Chöling with Ama Ayalmo. She has been very kind to us all. I had a large feed with her this morning when starting off. I hear from Tarlur that Tenduk went up the Drichu-chu and was successful in getting good seedlings of Meconopsis sherriffii and also a good haul of seed, as well as some Primula cawdoriana and Primula jucunda? .

2nd November. To Kyimpu. Fine. Clouded all night, rain at 2.0 pm. Got a good collection of Gentiana waltonii (6652) 6 packets, and Primula jaffreyana 2 packets. Rhododendron lanatum var. luciferum has set no seed at all this year. From a hundred capsules or more, we got a dozen seed. Little snow on the Drichu-chu, or up these hills. Collected some more Codonopsis vinciflora, the tubers locally called KIBU eaten.

3rd November. To NYERON. Fine bright all day. No clouds after crossing the Lela. There were low clouds last night, and a good deal of fresh snow on the Main Range. This is the first really clear day we have had, and are obviously in the dry zone now. The atmosphere is as dry as it could be, and already my nails are beginning to split. Left camp about 7.0 am; in at 4.0 pm, but about 4 miles further on than Ayandro, where locals are scarce. After a long search I found about 7 capsules of the new Fritillaria on the Lela, but only one bulb. The ground was frozen under the surface, and made it difficult to dig up bulbs. We also got some Gentiana amoena forma pallida, which showed very large capsules. The capsules of the Fritillaria are squat; about 1/2" high, the bulb is quite white, and 2"-3" below the surface. Primula consocia had thrown all its seed. We got another 3 packets of Gentiana waltonii, so I now have eleven. A man from Tsona told us in Kyimpu that Tarlur was not well in Chayul Dzong, but had gone on. I do hope he gets over the Pö La alright. After that he should have no great trouble. I hardly expect to get any seed from now on until we reach the Nyam Sang Chu, which I hope will be on the 12th.

4th November. Chayul Dzong. Rather a late start, in at 12 noon. There are two Dzongpens here, one of whom is the old one of 1936. He seems very happy and does not worry about us in the least. The other one wants to see our passport, which I'm sure Pinko must have shown when Ludlow was here. Wind very strong up the valley here. Found a few Primula tibetica seed on the way.