Part 103 - Kuling to Rong Dzong: incense-making and transport delays

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SUMMARY:
The diarist notes snowbound conditions near Kuling and observes monks making incense at a monastery. On 9 May at Hoet, promised transport animals failed to arrive; the party was entertained by the lively Jetsun Kusho, who is fond of Mohammed. On 10 May they obtained transport, reached Rong Dzong, and stayed in the Jetsun Kusho’s lingka house; she and her nun servant have traveled to Tawang and Sahden.

CONTENT:
Kuling. Again there were practically no flowers to be seen. On this side of the pass, down to about 14,500 the ground was covered in snow, so we could see nothing anyway. The monastery here is more active than it was before. There are a few monks with the Jetsun's staff. All at the moment are busy making incense. It is put in a press attached to one of the big pillars, then with much noise, singing and praying, it is pressed out through a small hole like toothpaste. Then it is cut to exact lengths and stacked on the floor to dry. The old lady sits in a chair and watches it all. She is a cheerful soul and full of life yet. She has done what she imagines we like for us, so we must be grateful. But again I say never again will we stay in a house!

9th May. Hoet. Although we were told everything would be ready, no animals turned up at all, and we had to spend the day here—very bored and very cold indeed. The old Jetsun Kusho came and entertained us with her lively talk. She is very taken by Mohammed; our Kazakh keeps on sending for him to talk to. There is little activity here today, the incense having been finished. The only time this place fills up is apparently in the 5th Tibetan month when all the monks of Tarpo Trapsang (the Panchen Lama's birthplace) come to Lhagyari and then do a pilgrimage back another way.

10th May. Rong Dzong. The call for transport failed to turn up and it seems, even sent a message to say they wouldn't come. So men were sent out last night to several villages and brought in sufficient for our needs today, and we got off by 7:45 am. The transport was the usual bullocks and very small donkeys. We got in, after a very hot march at 3:30 and our kit at 7:35 pm. The Jetsun Kusho insisted on our staying in her lingka house here—in her own room in fact. It is very quiet and very clean too; we are pleasantly surprised. It lies just outside Rong, beside the river. I was surprised to hear that the Jetsun Kusho had often been to Tawang, and her old nun servant here says she has been to Sahden too.