Part 10 - Itinerary 1933: Sikkim–Bhutan traverse and bird observations

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SUMMARY:
Notes the 1933 traverse across Bhutan via the central highway, leaving Gangtok and being delayed at Changu on 5 May due to snow on the Natu La. Records bird observations across Changu, the Chumbi and Ha valleys, and the Tibetan plateau, including a Wood Snipe sighting by Sherriff near Mago.

CONTENT:
3a

Itinerary 1933.

Ibis 6. The most important highway in Bhutan traverses the country from W. to E. through the middle temperate region. This was the route we chose in 1933. It is aligned at right angles to the parallel ranges which spring from the main axis, thus it soon ascends a pass then it dips down into an adjoining valley. This was rather a switchback method of progression but it afforded so many opportunities of studying the zonal distribution of birds (and flowers) & it had its advantages.

Leaving Gangtok in Sikkim, on 5th May we were held up at Changu for a week owing to heavy snow on the Natu La. During our enforced halt at Changu most interesting birds were:

Himalayan Blackbird
Turdus merula buddhae. Ibis 273-4. Found the Blackbird in large numbers between 13,500-15,000 ft at various stages between the Bum La, north of Tawang, and the Tse La in the Mago District. Confined to S.E. & S.W. Tibet at 12,500 and over. On 6th Nov. it is often seen on rocky grassy hill slopes covered with dwarf rhododendron bushes, etc. etc.

Pyrrhospiza punicea punicea. Ibis 470-472. Red-breasted Rose Finch. Plumage of the female difficult to understand.

Ibis 478. Tibetan Mountain Finch
Fringalauda brandti haematopygia. Common in suitable localities on the Tibetan plateau. Rather surprised to meet with it at Changu in early May.

Capella nemoricola. Wood Snipe - Ibis 503. In the hills W. of Mago in early August Sherriff saw many of this snipe flighting like woodcock of an evening, uttering a "Chur, Chur" call.

A few days spent in the Chumbi Valley, whence we proceeded in a leisurely manner to Ha. Crossed into Ha valley by the twin passes Chele La & Ha La, halting for 10 days at Sharithang and Damthang, 2 encampments set amidst beautiful conifer & rhododendron forest on either side of the Massong Chung Dong Range. Here we found:

Nucifraga caryocatactes hemispila. Ibis 22. Nutcracker! Common throughout Bhutan from 6,000 ft up to tree-limit. Observed at 12,000 in the Hamo Chu valley in Tibet near Lhakhang Dzong. (See p 19a)

Lophophanes rufonuchalis beavani. Ibis 24. S.K. Black Tit. Common everywhere, S. of the main range, from 9,000 to tree limit, seen above, for it was often seen in low rhododendron scrub at 14,000 ft.

Lophophanes dichrous. Black-browed Crested Tit. This bird has the same distribution as beavani and is equally common.

Aegithaliscus iouschistos rufiventer. Ibis 25. Tolerably common in W. Bhutan; only seen once in E. Bhutan though the party was one of 30-40 individuals. Birds of mixed deciduous & conifer forest.

Garrulax albogularis albogularis. Ibis 31. White-throated Laughing Thrush.

Suthora unicolor unicolor. Ibis 26. The Brown Suthora. A silent, sedentary, skulking bird generally found in thick bamboo jungle.

Ianthocincla ocellata ocellata. Ibis 32. Spotted Laughing Thrush. Throughout Bhutan between 7-11,000 ft in summer.

Phylloscopus magnirostris. Large-billed Warbler. Common on plateau forest from 7,000 upwards.

Trochocercus trochiloides. Ibis 288. Dull green Willow Warbler.

Pyrrhula erythrocephala. Ibis 469. Red-headed Bullfinch. A tame quiet bird common from 9,000 ft upwards in Bhutan.

Pyrrhoplectes epauletta. Ibis 469. Gold-headed Black Finch.

Propyrrhula subhimachala subhimachala. Ibis 470. Red-headed Rose Finch.

Tragopan satyra. Ibis 497.

Ithaginis cruentus cruentus. 498. Blood Pheasant.