SUMMARY:
Notes on the Kyag Chu spring’s seasonal flow, a halt at Trashiying with poor weather, and a wet march to the Tsokang at Shacho Pebo in Tsari Sama. The diarist describes logistical issues with coolies and rations, and records abundant Primula and Rhododendron, including vast masses of P. valentiniana; blood pheasant chicks are noted.

CONTENT:
'Kyag Chu' or Indian spring. During the winter it does not flow - but is said to flow to India. On the 10th of the 4th Tibetan month it begins to flow here again. All the coolies washed in it as soon as they arrived.

14th June. Halt. Trashiying. Cloudy & rainy nearly all day. I went up the hillside E of camp for about 2000 ft or more, but the mist was very thick & decided not to traverse on to the head of the valley, which abounds in cliffs & has a good deal of snow still lying. We went over the ridge to the next valley & returned by the Trashi La. Very little seen of any interest. P. tsariensis everywhere, but no P. valentiniana. Mec. simplicifolia very common & good colour. Blood pheasant now have their chicks hatched out - one or two days old.

15th June. The Tsokang at Shacho Pebo, Tsari Sama. 7 1/2 miles. BP. 187.7°. Temp. 46°. Time 3.30 pm. Ht. app. 13576'.
A wet night last night, & a terrific downpour all day today, without a pause, with a strong wind. Yesterday evening one of my four coolies returned - with no rations - but with a chit to say the coolies were to return to Langong. This was not from the gyunpa but from his underling. He added that the Trashiying people would take me round Tsari, but ignored the fact that there are only five people there. Tsoupon-Kusho did some good work & for some rations - to be repaid in kind - from the locals, & my coolies - now 14 - agreed to come with me. It was raining hard at 4 am & has not yet stopped. I have seldom had such a bad day for weather, as there is a high wind with it all. We had hoped to cross to the South of the Himalayas, but this pilgrimage apparently keeps to the North. At first there was nothing at all to be found. Then we got into good country, & here it is very good, must be like the Lo La N. side, only a little higher. Of flowers, there is masses of P. Roylei (calcareum) - a very fine form - P. tsariensis, P. valentiniana, P. kongboensis, P. prenantha, P. pudibunda, P. elizabethae & others, besides one new to me - P. subularia 5561. Rhododendrons too are good, very interesting ones seen today, there are R. ludlowii 5555, & R. campylogynum (mekongense) 5560. Another nice one is one of the Glaucum Ser. (charitopes) No. 5565. The finest sight of all, is certainly P. valentiniana, which is in masses. We can see, when the mist rises a little, vast areas, coloured a deep wine red. I went this afternoon to have a look at it, & was amazed at how much there is. Beside it & among it are Rhodo. ludlowii (mekongense) & P. elizabethae. We reached here about 12 noon, all soaked to the skin. The

SUMMARY:
The diary records paying for pony transport and arranging routes via the Jelep La and Nathu La, with generous provisions from Rani Chuni and many loads of plants and seeds despite Betty having broken her arm. On 30 Oct at Damthang, coolies and transport are disorganized and late; on 31 Oct at Sharithang, rain and sleet continue with snow above 11,000 ft.

CONTENT:
four collectors. They will have to change transport at Rinchenpong. We have paid them at Rs 9/- per pony. Ludlow had 5 1/2 loads and Hicks at 10 1/2. I also paid Tsangpon at the rate of Rs 10/- per pony to Kalimpong - Rs 105/- - that being about half what we expect the cost to be. They will all go the Jelep La route, while we will go by the Nathu La. As usual we have been very well looked after here. Rani Chuni has been pouring things over to us, butter, cider, eggs, meat, even whisky. We can't stop her, and we'll be lucky to get off with just the number of transport ordered. With us we have 8 pony loads and 3 coolies with live plants. That can't all fit into a jeep and trailer, and we will certainly have to use some other form of transport to get the rest through. And so we end what has been a very successful trip for us all, with the one exception of Betty breaking her arm. Ludlow certainly has the best collection, but we all have lots of good stuff, and seeds should prove interesting, and also the rooted plants, of which we have brought more than ever before. We have 3 big baskets - each a man's load - each having 3 tiers of plants in them.

30th Oct. Damthang. Raining in the morning, off soon in the day. Coolies and transport very sad indeed. They do just as they like, and even by 4.0 pm several are not in after an 8 mile march. What is worse, is that we saw some of the boxes which were yesterday passing the bungalow this evening. In fact they never went yesterday at all. These people are very difficult now. There is no authority, no discipline.

31st Oct. Sharithang. Rain and sleet fell all evening and night, there was quite a bit of snow on the road today from about 11000 ft up to the top.

SUMMARY:
Heavy spring rain at Tongkyun with peach blossom in Pasha; several halt days used to repack for a two‑month return journey while letters were exchanged rapidly with Ludlow via Dzeng. Tsungpen and Akong visited Trulung; plans were made for Ludlow to go to Pemakochung and the Yigrong Range, possibly leaving Suowa to Tsungpen, and Henry may accompany the diarist to Tromda. The writer, feeling heart trouble, decides to return to India amid persistently dull, rainy weather.

CONTENT:
been held up, but had gone very slowly indeed & had waited in Lhasa a very long while. I felt my heart rather a lot, & have had to decide to go back to India, a blow which I haven't realized fully yet.

31st March. Tongkyun. We had heavy rain & a thunderstorm on the way - typical weather for spring. Although it was very heavy, it was noticeable that snow did not fall low down on the hills. All the peach blossom is out here, in Pasha - a very pretty sight.

1-2-3 April. Halt. Nothing much to do. Repacked all stores for our 2 months trip back, leaving the rest for Ludlow to dispose of. Tsungpen & Akong went to Trulung on 3rd for a quick trip to Trulung and back, & hope secured for quite a lot of good things. There must be a great change down that way by now.

4-5-6-7th April. Halt. I sent a letter to Ludlow on 3rd telling him of our altered plans. The lad took it to Dzeng in 2 days & found L & S there, they not yet having been able to see the Dzongpen at Tsola Dzong, as he had gone to Trulung. Ludlow wrote back at once & I got the letter on 6th - there & back in 4 days. Ludlow plans now to go to Pemakochung, then here by 15 May & on to the Yigrong Range. He wants to let Tsungpen do the Suowa area on his own. I wonder if that is wise & if Tsungpen can manage it. It would be a jolly good show if he did do it. Henry suggests coming with me to Tromda, but I hope that will not be necessary. We will have to have a good talk on 14th when we meet there. What a lot of time has been wasted this year. But we could not help it. Tsungpen should be back here this evening from Trulung, if he has had no trouble from coolies.

8th & 9th Ap. Halt. Every day is the same now. Each night it rains more or less. Each day is cloudy, with some bright intervals, more or less. It is dull weather,

SUMMARY:
Records continued fine mornings following a Bhutanese 'St. Swithin's Day' weather rule. On 19th July the party traveled 8 miles to Trongsa in leech-ridden conditions, found a single campanula flower, and stayed in HH's summer house above the dzong; the Zimpon recounted his trip to Calcutta with HH and his heavy duties at Damthang arranging salaams and gifts for visitors to the Maharaja.

CONTENT:
back to Chendebi again. The Bhutanese St. Swithin's Day rule is holding good. We had awful rain for the last 10 days of the last Bhutanese month. But if the 30th was fine, we were to have 15 days fine, if wet, then bad weather for a month. It was not fine, but there was comparatively little rain and we had sun in the afternoon. Since then all mornings have been fine.

19th July. To Trongsa. 8 miles. Very heavy rain all last evening and night. Fine this morning, leeches very bad, got 5 or 6 on my feet and some on my hands which weren't seen till too late. Found only one flower of a nice campanula, but otherwise nothing of interest. Here we are staying in a very nice kind of summer house which HH uses, above the dzong. It is pleasantly cool and a breeze blows all day. The Zimpon seems a very nice man. I had met him before in Bumthang, where we had competed at archery. He was down in Calcutta with HH last year, and has been telling me all about his experiences there. His work was light, he got all the fun there was, and thoroughly enjoyed himself. But at Damthang on the way back, he had to work hard, as everyone who came to salaam the Maharaja had to do so through him, he had to give presents to them all. So that of the 8 or 9 maunds of things he had brought

SUMMARY:
Notes describe a hot, steamy descent and climb with collecting of butterflies and birds, a wire to Tobgye, and arrival at Kalimpong where ponies met the party below Pedong and lunch was taken with Chuni. Later entries mention three days in Kalimpong before traveling via Calcutta, Sialkot, Wazirabad, and Kud to reach Srinagar, while Tobgye went to Darjeeling.

CONTENT:
instead of staying in Ari. A fine day from morning to evening. Collected some beautiful, though probably common butterflies and some birds. It is rather beastly being down so low again. This road is awful the way it goes up and down. We dropped 4000', climbed 2000' and again dropped nearly 2000'. Wired to Tobgye today we would reach Kalimpong tomorrow. Pretty hot and steamy all day -

17th October. TO KALIMPONG. 4200' 19 miles. A fine day, rather steamy. Uninteresting road and few birds seen. Met by Tobgye's ponies below Pedong and they were very pleasant to ride. Tobgye off to Darjeeling, but lunched with Chuni.

16th October. SRINAGAR. Stayed three days in Kalimpong, then left for Calcutta and Kashmir. Stayed one night at Sialkot to wait for Tobgye. Motored to meet him at Wazirabad and reached Kud that night, next morning Srinagar.

SUMMARY:
Notes on departure with mule transport, observations of conifers, magnolias and daphnes, and a dispute over extra pony rations. Ludlow indicates the route to Changu, Sikkim; arrival at TSOMGO (10 miles, 12,400') with snow starting at 12:30. Cine film B.1 taken between Kalimpong and near Lagyap La.

CONTENT:
50-60 ft high. A good many are in bloom, but all have been terribly spoilt by the hail. Magnolias & daphnes too are numerous: I think it is mag. campbellii - some of the trees being 70-90 ft high with huge blooms. Collected seven birds but no flowers. The transport is mule & far away the best I've seen: they did the full 10 miles in a little under four hours. We took one riding pony, but I walked. Once the order to load up was given, they were off in half an hour - a jolly good performance on the first morning. Had to pay Rs 6/- for three extra ponies = 1 per 6 baggage ponies for their rations. I'm sure that is not right, but Rai Bahadur Norbu said we should pay: he is probably in with the transport people. Williamson is too weak to tell them they can't have it. It is grand to be off, & to see conifers in the distance again.

Ludlow says "To Changu Sikkim"
6th May. TSOMGO. 10 miles. 12400'. A lovely morning, but clouded

Cine film No.
B.1. taken between Kalimpong and near Lagyap La. All with filter. Snows with f 5.6-11 at 6.30 am.

over by 1200. In at 1230, when snow started falling. Passed in zone of conifers and rhododend

SUMMARY:
Pintso went to Tiyangsi to hire coolies to trace lost mail that had earlier come via Dirang, Mago, Atsona, and Dongkar. On the Maharaja’s orders, a Dzongpen sent four boxes of jackfruit that arrived inedible after a long journey amid heavy rain; Kuntip’s stomach trouble returned, and the party halted at Shingbe, with Danang noted.

CONTENT:
74

day. Pintso went down to Tiyangsi to get coolies to send off to find out about the lost mails. When our last mail arrived - the one that went all round by Dirang Mago Atsona to Dongkar - four other coolies came with it.

Contax
5.6.7.8 sent
23.8.
Cine film

7. 8. 9 ditto.
      F. Pack
      No 2 ditto.
      Kodak
      Calcutta.

The Maharaja had kindly given orders to one of his Dzongpens to send the Sahibs some fruit. So he obeyed, and sent off on a 20-day journey four huge boxes of jack fruits. The jack fruit is a disgusting fruit at the best of times. It looks (and smells) like a sheep's stomach. After a month's knocking about it is quite definitely not fit to eat. We were hoping the box would contain vegetables, so our disappointment can be imagined when this mass of mush was opened up. It rained hard all day. Our washing was optimistically hung out to dry in the morning, and remains out tonight wetter than when hung up. Kuntip in the morning was his old self again, but suddenly developed his tummy ache again. I'm afraid his inside is seriously out of order.

24th August. Halt at Shingbe. Danang. Gulla ol )

SUMMARY:
The diarist describes sparse official presence across Tibetan towns, then records halts and short marches with bullocks en route toward Tsela Dzong. A pony carrying Ludlow and Elliot’s bedding goes missing and is later recovered; Sandup returns to Kyindong, and difficult road conditions near Risho require manhandling loads, with mention of skin ferries.

CONTENT:
There can be no other country which runs itself like Tibet. Since we left Gangtok we have not come across many officials in their place of business. The T.T.A. Yatung is hardly ever anywhere but in Kalimpong. There was a dzongpon in Phari. There was one in Gyantse. But there were none in Nangkarbe, Pede or Gongkar. The Nethong Dzongpon was in residence, and we have seen none since then.

3rd Dec. Halt. Very windy last evening, but clear and cold at night, with not a very low temp. No one appeared this morning early, but by 11.0 some 30 bullocks had come. The men are a pleasant friendly - several having been with us before both in 1933 and 1938 in Langong or beyond Kyindong Dzong. They remember us, apparently quite happily, and they even remember Jill. They are going to Tsela Dzong with us, and we should have no trouble when once away from here. The only troublesome people are the representatives of the Dzong. The village here is very poor, but they seem friendly enough.

4th Dec. Kamchang. Bullocks got off in good time, last party leaving at 8.0. We were in at 11.30 - it is a short march. But bullocks take a very long time. One pony with Ludlow and Elliot's bedding never arrived in. Kamchang is the lower of two villages, each only with a few houses. Pollarded walnut trees are much in evidence.

5th Dec. Halt. Again had to halt, this time owing to the lost pony. It strayed up a side valley 2 miles from here. Sandup has gone back to Kyindong. Pony came in late at night - or rather the bedding was brought in - the pony had fallen and hurt itself.

6th Dec. Camp 2 m. beyond Chongrong on S. bank, left at 7.30: in with bullocks at 4.30pm. Road very bad for bullocks in 3 places, the worst being 1 1/2 m beyond Risho, where all loads had to be manhandled for 100 yds over a cliff. There are 'skin' ferries at 1 1/2 m above Risho, -

• SUMMARY:
  Notes list plant collections from Tibdey La and record presenting HH with a wireless set that worked well. Tsonpen Tenduk went to Tibdey La and collected Lobelia nubigena; HH organized football and sports with a large tea party. A picnic included discussion of a forest scheme contingent on prices in Calcutta and agreement from lamas, with prices noted for Sealdah and Mathanjuri.

CONTENT:
P. tanneri 3477 - Tibdey La
Tibdey La
P. yargongensis 3487 (Upward 3488)

• 28th July
  Rhododendron bulbulifolium 3479
  Codonopsis nervosa 3482
  Lobelia nubigena 3489
  Gent. elwesii 3480
  Bergenia ligulata to Tibdey La up to 16,000 ft.

I presented HH with the wireless and heard it one evening, when it worked very well indeed. [Tsonpen Tenduk went off on 27th to the Tibdey La to look for a giant lobelia or anything else which they could see that was new. They got the Lobelia (nubigena) and a few other quite interesting flowers.]

We had another game of football in pouring rain on 30th, and before the end, the ground was covered in water: but it was good fun. On 31st HH arranged to have sports, which included boxing, relay race, women's race, three legged race and high jump. It finished up with a race for the women of the local villages, and then HH gave a "tea party" - tea and rice - to everyone present, about 400. I then found that he had quietly been doing this and giving money to winners, in my name.

[We had a picnic on 29th, and while there I tackled HH about forests. At first he was not anxious to speak, but eventually he was persuaded or had persuaded himself and told me to take up the idea, depending only on whether Tobgye could get a good price in Calcutta, and whether the lamas would agree. He mentioned all this again when I left, and seemed really pretty keen on it. The two prices quoted to Tobgye seem pretty good. One is for Rs 30/- at Sealdah per ton of 50 cubic feet. The other is for Rs 22/- per ton at Mathanjuri. These work out to show a

SUMMARY:
The party splits, with S. going up the Lando Chu towards Molo and Tsari while Ludlow and Taylor head to Lusha; the diarist travels via Tsela Dzong with Gulla and the Tsongpen, aiming to meet Kusho. Taylor is improving but will avoid the passes, with Tendrup assigned most passes and Ludlow to do Lusha La; notes mention continuing rain, river levels on the Tsangpo and Nyang Chu, and timelines to Dewangiri. Mail news: Kusho has returned from Lhasa, and Norbhu redirected the mail via Gyantse.

CONTENT:
Sept 16 Party splits - S. up the Lando Chu then on to Molo, the Do La, Langong Valley & Tsari
L. & T. to Lusha - then up the Pan La across to Tsari. Tamnyen La - Po-Doshong La

14th Sept. } Halt Temo. Rained a good deal, hardly any sun to dry our seeds. All plans made for
15th " } future. Ludlow & Taylor go off to Lusha tomorrow, while I start off too, via Tsela Dzong - Taylor very much better & able to do quite a lot. Gulla & Tsongpen only accompany me, but we hope to pick up Kusho in Tsela Dzong.

16th September. Ligding. 8 miles. Fine, but still very cloudy, with rain apparently constant on the Main Range. We have now parted again, Ludlow & Taylor going over to Lusha to start collecting in that area, while I go West. Taylor will not do the Passes, but Tendrup will work them all but the Lusha La, which Ludlow will do. They will thus be very quick, & should leave Tse before the end of the month. Taylor wants to return as quickly as possible, seeing he cannot work the passes, & he should & must be in Dewangiri by the 16th November. I work out my moves to get me down there by the 1st Dec. if I travel fast, & so I hardly think that Ludlow will wait for me so long. It looks as if we should not meet again this trip till we are in Kashmir, or won't see Taylor certainly. He is much better, & were his tongue only reasonably clean, I would say he was safely out of the wood. He is a difficult person to feed, being very particular about what he eats, & that is not easy to cope with on a trip like this. Although the rain continues, - we have had no sun at all these last three days - the monsoon must be over except for odd rain on the Main Range, which we always notice goes on till the 18th Oct or so. The Tsangpo went down two or three feet during the week we were at Temo, and it is a good 12 ft or more lower than it was when at its highest. The Nyang Chu does not show such a big drop nearly.

17th Sept. Tsela Dzong. Rain at night & showery today. It took us a good long time to get ponies etc to be transported over here. There are 5 branches of the river to cross. The Nyang Chu has only dropped a foot since we were here on 10th August. Kusho is here, having returned from Lhasa in 8 days. The mail had not reached Lhasa when he caught it up on, I think, the 31st Aug. Norbhu stayed the mail runner & sent him back here, while he sent on our mail to Gyantse by the Tibetan post. He expected it back in 8 days & was then to send it to