Part 37 - Halt days, meeting with the Dzongpon, and preparations for Sobhe La and Gyadzong

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SUMMARY:
Notes on extreme temperatures and plant survival are followed by a halt during which the diarist and Ludlow visit the Dzongpon with gifts to secure cooperation for travel plans. They plan routes to the Sobhe La and Gyadzong, attempt to train a local to use a thermograph, test photographic equipment, and repack supplies.

CONTENT:
fairly easy. Supplies are not easy here, there is no doubt of that. The thermograph showed fine interesting results. But the whole question of temperatures to which plants are subjected is one of great interest. On the main range there is snow now; there has been snow above 13,000 or less for about a month or two. So the plants there are protected. But north of the Himalayan range for instance, there is no snow on the Tamu La for instance. Yet we had, at 11,500, a temp of -4°F. On the Tamu La, at 13,900', the temp must be 15-20° below zero. Yet the plants survive that. A contrast was the place Lil. Wardii was growing. The temps were down to -4° there, yet I could dig out the bulbs with my hand. Where we took P. sonchifolia(?), we broke the blade of the kukri cutting the frozen soil.

27th Dec. Halt. Fine again, but with thin cirrus cloud collecting. Ludlow and I called on the Dzongpon in the morning and gave him 1 pair of binoculars, 1 bottle of saffron, 1 Stanley flask, 1 than of cotton cloth, 1 picture frame and 1 photo of the Dalai Lama. That is a bribe. He seemed more pleased and easy than yesterday, and made no objections to our plans to go towards the Sobhe La on the 30th and to Gyadzong, with 50 coolies, on about the 6th or 8th of Jan. I have tried today to teach a local about the thermograph which Ludlow and I hope to put up above Laha on the Sobhe La route. He cannot read or write, but I think I will get him to do something. He seems quite intelligent and a decent youth. Took a few photos today to test the roll film adaptor which I fitted for use with either camera. As a test, I used the readings given by a GE meter.

28th - 29th Dec. Halt. Checked and repacked all kit, and took out a 2 months' supply for our visit to Gyadzong and a small supply for Ludlow and myself to take to the Sobhe La.