Part 15 - Gyamda Chu and Tsangpo; departure from Tsela Dzong and camp near Shura La

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SUMMARY:
The diarist describes a first view of the Gyamda Chu joining the Tsangpo near Tsela Dzong and a trip via the Kulu Phu Chu to Kuchala before going to Tse. With transport arranged by the Dzongpen of Tsela Dz, Ludlow went alone toward Pasum La and Tongyuk Dzong in Pome while the diarist and Taylor explored west of the Gyamda Chu, camping near the Shura La and noting several gentians and other alpine plants.

CONTENT:
From this ridge, through a break in the clouds, I had my first glimpse of the Gyamda Chu, flowing in many channels to meet the Tsangpo at Tsela Dzong. Half an enormous river, it appeared to make not the least difference to the size of the Tsangpo, in the dirty water of which its clear streams were soon lost.

As a last trip before going to Tse, where Ludlow & Taylor were due on 31st July, I visited the Kuchala. The Kulu Phu Chu, up which we went, was typical of so many of the rivers running north to the Tsangpo from the Eastern Himalayas. We ploughed through swamp, with a very gentle ascent until the last mile was reached when the path led precipitously up to a knife edge ridge. Little of interest was found here. Most spring & summer flowers were over: Gentians were just coming into flower.

The Dzongpen of Tsela Dz had been most kind to us & provided transport for our two parties when we left on 10th August. Ludlow this time went alone with the Pasum La & Tongyuk Dzong in Pome as his goal. Taylor & I were to explore the valleys to the west of the Gyamda Chu. We camped near the Shura La (15,700?) above the Rhododendrons. This area has a considerable precipitation, but is not nearly so constantly wet as the Himalayan Range. Gentians were now appearing in flower, & we found G. przewalskii, G. sherriffii & G. sino-ornata, G. tsarongensis, while the beautiful Lomatogonium oreocharis was just making an appearance. Meconopsis florindae was seen still in flower on banks in forest lower down, while the last of the flowering Meconopsis to be seen was M. horridula var. lutea, here common in one valley, on open boulder scree. The clumps of thistles beside