Part 113 - Go-Cyae to Dongkar Dzong diary entries, 18–19 May

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SUMMARY:
The diarist travels from Go-Cyae in perfect weather, noting tame gazelle, kyang, high passes, and sightings of parnassius butterflies, with observations on elevation, vegetation, and local attire. On 19 May they make a long march to Dongkar Dzong with mules and donkeys, encounter unhelpful local officials (Chanzo and Gyimpon) but find tipping effective, and plan to continue toward Trimo via Lior, noting Primula in flower and changing peoples along the route.

CONTENT:
18th May. Go-Cyae. A perfect day without a cloud in the sky as we started off at 7.0. We were in at 1.30, again at 2.0pm. The day remained perfect, with fine cumulus clouds, but no storms anywhere. Again we saw many gazelle, all of which were tame, and some kyang. The hills are still very dry, but begin here to show signs of heavier rainfall. On the Chidney La we saw 4 parnassius butterflies, but I failed to catch any. All these passes are high, though easy. I judge all are 16500' or perhaps more. The Yangtse is perhaps 15500' or a bit more, and I should think the Triju Tso must be over 15000'. This place is perhaps 14000', as there are a few dwarf juniper appearing here. The women here all wear big amber necklaces. There are only three houses and a Gompa.

19th May. Dongkar Dzong. 17 miles. A longish march, but we had first class mules and 4 donkeys which kept up with us all the way here. We left at 6.40 and got in at 2.0pm, going well. The route is not very interesting, only shows signs of more vegetation in the last 3 or 4 miles. The Chanzo here is a silly little man who is not one to help. The Gyimpon also was not one to help. I tipped the latter, who became at once much more easy to deal with. This is not a Dzong so the Chanzo claimed he could do nothing with me, but eventually agreed to send me on to Trimo. I fear we may have some difficulty there too, without any authority from Tsona. But I will again try what a tip will do. Prim. sikkimensis and P. tibetica in flower here and generally more signs of life. It is further from here to Trimo than I imagined, we are told 3 days will be necessary. First to Lior only by yak: thence coolies. The road is said to be bad after Lior and very difficult. But there is one thing: the people will be pleasanter after leaving here, I feel sure. They are Tibetan to Trimo then Monba, then Tahpa.