Part 57 - Entries near Tonse Dzong and Be: fire, lake crossing, and iron mine visit (6–13 Feb)

1 page

SUMMARY:
The diary records medical aid to many locals, hunting and bird observations near Tonse and Saman, and a major forest fire near Tonse Dzong filling the valley with smoke. After halts and a cold, windy lake crossing to Be, the writer notes help from the local headman and visits nearby iron mines, describing the shaft and a small blast furnace and taking ore samples.

CONTENT:
57

Threatening looking. Half the population came today for medicine. There were about 20 in the morning, followed by 60 after lunch. We did not go out today. Lahu got 3 geese, 1 at the Tonse and 2 near Saman.

6th Feb. Halt. Went upstream again towards Tonse Dzong. Last night the forest on the hill near the Dzong had been set on fire and was blazing all day today. The whole valley was filled with blue smoke, visibility very poor. We did not quite reach the Dzong. I saw 3 kingfishers, and shot two. The little ringed plover I got the other day are paired off and apparently breeding. Saw a few geese - about 30 mallard. The kingfishers are I think only the second we have seen in SE Tibet in all our trips. Once we saw one near Charme (Sanga Choling). There are undoubtedly fish in the lake, as there are a number of goosander and some cormorants always to be seen. The locals say they cannot catch fish in winter, as the water is too clear and the fish see the hooks.

7th Feb. Halt. Stayed in camp. It is getting very warm nowadays, as the max. temp shows. The whole valley is now filled with blue smoke, the fire at Tonse continues.

8th-9th Feb. Halt.

10th Feb. Be. Cold and a strong wind up the lake. We took 2 1/2 hours in the double boat to reach here, and it was very cold indeed. The Dzongpon's 'tsap' refused to come at the last moment.

11-12 Feb. Very cold all day, but gradually clearing up. Local headman is a good soul and helps a great deal in getting our supplies.

13th Feb. Went up to the iron mines, about 3 miles above Be, and 200' up from the lake. The shaft goes into the hillside at an angle down of about 10°. It is 40-50' long and does not appear to be used much. I took samples of the ore. It is smelted at the same place. The blast furnace is a hollow about 6 ft x 3' x 3', with two hollow holes and a hole in the roof.

[Diagram labels:]
hole for smoke
holes for bellows
this part bricked up when full of ore and charcoal. Iron when smelted goes to bottom and is then taken out.