Part 49 - Camp west of Gyadzong with notes on Phokpon taxation and local conditions

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SUMMARY:
The party camps 1 mile west of Gyadzong after crossing to the left bank and reports friendly but guarded locals fearful of the Phokpon official. Notes describe exploitative tax practices leading to depopulation and poverty in nearby areas. Subsequent entries record a halt day for organization and cold, cloudy weather with snow on the 18th.

CONTENT:
16th Jan. Camp 1 m W of Gyadzong. Cleared up & was a very pretty day indeed. We crossed in a single trip to the L bank, which took 15 minutes. Rear opposite journey takes 20 min. Road very bad ready. We left the track before reaching Gyadzong & turned N to the links where we have a lovely camp. People are friendly but very guarded. They are afraid of officials, knowing only the 'Phokpon' here, who is an official changed every three years. The present one has been here for one year. For the last 3-4 years the Phokpon's treatment of locals in collecting taxes has been such that many families have left for Kongbo. He supplies tea, butter & salt & takes in place 6 bos for every 1 he gives. The result of all this has been that whereas there were 104 'kangs' in Tembe Dzong, there are now 34: in Be there were 9, now 2 1/2: in Gyadzong a similar diminution, from 11 to 4 1/2. A kang is a measure of what is available in barley & equals 40 bos. The people who are here appear to be very poor indeed, & also medically in bad condition.

17th Jan. Halt. Perfect day. Stayed in camp & got organized.

18th Jan. Cloudy & cold all day: snowed on the links down to about 8000 on the N