SUMMARY:
Notes from Shali in the Trashiyangsi Valley describe a route through oak jungle, crossing the Bumthang Chu at mile 4 and the Blarkang Chu at mile 7, with the path 1500–2000 ft above the Trashiyangsi Chu and passing small patches of cultivation. Weather was breezy with no rain and many flowers and orchids were observed. Ahmad Sheikh was scalded by an upset kettle, while the Tibetan companion is improving and managed to ride and walk today.

CONTENT:
Trashiyangsi Valley
Shali Aug 11
Coelogyne ovalis 1048
Cyperorchis longifolia 1051

climbs and descends a lot. Mostly it lies through open oak jungle. Where reentrants are crossed the jungle is dense. At m 4 the BUMTHANG CHU is crossed. This is a big valley coming in from the East. Another smaller valley, the BLARKANG CHU, is crossed at m 7. Most of the way from m 4 or so on the path is from 1500 to 2000 ft above the Trashiyangsi Chu. Small patches of cultivation are passed here and there, and the last 3 miles is mostly through cultivation, where there are a few houses.

A day with no rain at all, almost our first. There is a good breeze always up the valley, so although hot, it was never unpleasant. We found a remarkable number of flowers, orchids and some queer things I do not know at all. It is beautifully cool here in the evening, with a good breeze. Our medicines are having a hard time this year, whereas last year we used none. Ahmad Sheikh yesterday upset a kettle full of water and burnt both arms, one badly, and his face a little. It looks as if he would have a bad time with the wound on his right arm. The Tibetan is very much better now. He rode half way and walked the rest today, and there is little pus coming from the cut this evening. A number of

SUMMARY:
Departing at 9 with men and a pony used as a load carrier, the party crossed a misty plain that cleared by 7 am, faced wind from 10, admired Kyu Tso and the distant Dongkar Range, and reached camp by 2 pm. They note they could have made Shao, are out of Tsona with only the Tawang - Duktur march left, and mention Ludlow sending whisky and beer from T'gong with another bottle at the Dzong, expecting supplies to last to Dewangiri.

CONTENT:
8.0. However we were off at 9.0, one man to the loads, 3
Sanden men with flowers & one local wash out with the table
etc. A broken down old pony was provided as riding pony,
but as I don't want to ride, it was made into a very
necessary load carrier. The whole plain was covered over
with mist all night, in the rising sun the mist was very
pretty, gradually dispersing by 7.0 am. It was cold, but no
wind. Today the wind got up at 10.0, blew all day, dying
down about now - 4.30 pm. The Kyu Tso was a lovely sight
with the Dongkar Range away beyond, a beautiful blue green,
showing up well with the snow of the mountains & the
brilliant blue Tibetan winter sky. We reached camp at 2.0.
I believe with yaks in camp over night we could easily have
made Shao. But we are out of Tsona, there only remains the
march Tawang - Duktur, after which I don't much care
what happens. Ludlow has a most exaggerated idea of
my whisky consumption, having sent me a bottle from T'gong.
My present one should last me to Dewangiri, but he has
left even another at the Dzong. He also promises half a
dozen beer to be waiting for me there - a most kind thought.

SUMMARY:
Itemized transport and travel expenses, tickets, luggage fees, stores, and hires across multiple stages, with payments to staff and tips. Routes include movements between Sialkot, Lahore, Paro, Kalimpong, Gangtok, and Yatung, and through Bhutanese localities such as Wangdupotrang, Ridang, Chendebi, Gyetsa, and Bumthang. Mentions payments to Pintso and Danong and a present from Tobgye.

CONTENT:
Lorry to Sialkot. Rs. 30. To Ha. 12

• Lahore. Rs. 33. To Paro 46 coolies & 2 ponies 2 days 48.
  Tickets to Calcutta. 245. Pintso's pay 1 mth + 1/2 mth adv. 60. Pd 22/6.
  Excess luggage .. .. 185. Paro to Tsalimape. 49.
  Tickets to Gielle Khola. 83. Tsalimape to Wangdupotrang. 49.
  Excess luggage 100. Wangdi to Ridang (2 stages) 47.
  Stores from Mazda. 500. Ridang - Chendebi. 23.
  2 Cars G. Khola to Kalimpong. 16. Chendebi to Gyetsa. 67
  Hotel Kalimpong 24 Gyetsa to Bumthang. 22.
  1 Car to Gangtok 30 Danong pay June. All & July 40.
  Bullock carts Gielle Khola to Gangtok 34. Extra hire Gangtok - Yatung. 35.
  Transport. 18 ponies to Yatung @ 6/- 126. Presents from Tobgye (boots.) 10.
  Tips Gangtok Residency. 40. Odd expenses on road. 10.
  Karponang Bungalow.

SUMMARY:
Itemized expenses and payments for travel, wages, tips, and supplies, including lorry to Srinagar, bungalow charges, road expenses, parcels, and tickets. Mentions payments to Damang, Pintso, A. Sheikh, and a watch for R.S. Lama, with routes involving Yatung, Kalimpong, and Calcutta.

CONTENT:
2907
Damang 110. Pay incl Sept. ✓ Lorry to Srinagar. 120.
Pintso. 120 Pay incl. Aug. ✓ Tolls etc. 30
Pintso (road exp). 40. for Damang. ✓ 150
Lhuentse syces. 4. ✓ 1856
Kurtip. 40. ✓ 2907
A. Sheikh. 10. 4913

Jongpens men 10. 3241 Damang pay & b'shish. 40
Postmaster Yatung 150 (S.) Pintso 65

• • 150 (L.) Tenduk. 60
    Nangarbe. 5078
    Tips Lhakang to 15.
    Pay 130. Ration 20
    Kusho. Adv. 30 180
    Tenduk 5 + 10 15.
    Gyantse bungalow. 32.
    Bungalow to Yatung 32.
    Rs/
    Expenses on road. 15.
    Yatung to Kalimpong. 228.
    Coolies. 10
    Bungalows & etc. 12
    Watch for R.S. Lama 22.
    Kalimpong. 32
    Parcels. 10
    To Calcutta 175
    To Sealkote Tickets. 273
    Luggage 171.

SUMMARY:
The diarist reports fleas from bamboo mats, notes Lilium nepalense and collects fine Podocarpum seed while traveling from Kotakha across Suele La and Tsele La into the Phobsikha valley, then planning and taking the Chele La toward Rukusi and Chendesi amid disputes with coolies and route advice from locals. News arrives that Ludlow has sent Dawong back to Bumthang with a bad leg.

CONTENT:
Too many fleas in it, from the bamboo mats supplied by locals. Nothing of interest seen on the way, except we noticed that there are some Lilium nepalense, though not many. Kotakha is about 2½ miles beyond the Muele La, on the left bank of the wide valley. This valley here is called the Pausa Chu, and the headman says that lower down it is called the Biameshu Chu, which is marked on the map.

27th August. Issa in Phobsikha valley. Very heavy rain last night, but it was to a clear sky at last that we woke up, and set off at 5.0 am. It remained fine except for some showers till the evening. This is the first sun we have seen since I left Betty at 10.30 on the Hala-Kyu La. The ascent to the Suele La was easy in climbs, but the wind was really awful and very difficult to deal with. The pass is about 10500-11000' and about 5 miles from Kotakha. Descent easy into another broad open valley. Path skirts the top of this, keeping up pretty well. It then climbs easily again to the Tsele La at about mile 10. It is again about 11000'. Descent into the Phobsikha valley not very steep, and path comes down half way between Phobsikha and Gonte Gompa. I could not find where we were supposed to go. We had been told Gonte, but coolies insisted in coming here. The locals want us to go over the pass north of Gonte, which would mean we could not reach Chendesi tomorrow. I have refused to go that way, and we will go over another pass, the Chele La to Rukusi. Got very fine seed of Podocarpum today. No flowers at all.

28th August Chendesi - I got in at 1.0, but Tupden had to stay for one miserable coolie who did not turn up and is very late. He had to change twice, once only 3 miles away, and again at Rukusi. The pass, the Chele La, about 12000', was not bad at all, but the path this side is very poor. No news from Ludlow, but it seems he has had to send Dawong back to Bumthang with a very bad leg. He is

SUMMARY:
The diarist recounts a misty, strenuous climb over a pass and a long descent to Lamdo in the Tsangpo valley, meeting Paka Kusho on arrival and later hosting Shaka Kusho while awaiting news of Ludlow and the mail. On 31 July at Tse they reunite with Ludlow, confirm all servants are well, and plan to stay until the 7th before proceeding to Tsela Dzong on the 8th–9th, with Ludlow, Taylor, and the diarist separating on the 10th.

CONTENT:
mist, rain, and I was a bit hazy about the way we turned to. But we went on up to the top, a very steep climb of over 4,500'. Here there was a small pass, which the Hopa said was the place we should aim for, and he said he knew the path down the other side. It would take us out to the Tsangpo valley at Lamdo. Later on he said we would come out near Tse. That would have done too, but we eventually spotted the Tsangpo and to our horror, found we were 3 or 4 miles below Tsela Dzong. That meant a walk in of about 8 miles. We left camp in the morning at 5:15, and did not reach camp at Lamdo till 6:30 pm, having walked steadily for all but an hour of the time. I expected to be able to sit down and rest and have my tea and dinner in peace anyway. But on arrival I saw the Paka Kusho all dressed up waiting for me. So we sat down and talked and eventually he produced a dinner and we went on talking away till 9:30 at night, by which time I was just as tired as I could be. Our long trek was a disappointment too, as we found very little, chiefly I think because we could see so little in the thick mist. No news of Ludlow yet, and no news of the mail. But I expect both will be pretty well up to time. In the valley we came down yesterday—the first big one beyond Tsela Dzong on the South—there were a few plants of the big Meconopsis I found on Gonyi-re. All were in seed. They had probably been brought down from higher up by avalanches.

Today 30th, it has rained off and on pretty hard all day. Shaka Kusho had a tent beside mine, and stopped the night, and offered breakfast in the morning. But I refused that, so he stayed on till midday and gave me lunch. I have stayed in camp all day, done a few remaining photographs, cut my hair and generally cleaned myself up. I can't bathe, as I haven't a camp bath. I have sent a chit to meet Ludlow and hope for an answer this evening or in the morning, unless Ludlow has gone off to the North of the river, which is quite possible.

reunited - L, S & T. See Ludlow III - 112.

31st July. Tse. 4 miles. Ludlow sent up this afternoon to say he was in Tse, and would I come down there, so I went, and we all met about 5:00 pm. They called it the 30th, making the same mistake as I did when we all left Molo. We decided to stay here till the 7th, then Tsela Dzong 8th–9th, leaving, Ludlow one way, Taylor and I another, on 10th. All servants seem very fit, and very talkative too.

SUMMARY:
On 10 November at Trimo, the diarist notes seed collections and plants seen en route to the Pō La, and reports that Taylor has gathered many specimens between Sirimo and Shakti. They describe leaving Tsona, meeting the Dzongpen who discussed Tawang and Assam officials, sending mail by special runner toward Trashi-yang, and note health updates for Phunbo and the Dzongpen along with gifts from H.H. the Maharani, Padmadechen, and Phunbo Wangdi Palden.

CONTENT:
10th Nov. Trimo. seeds of R. baileyi 6656, R. tsariense 6657, R. wallichii 6659, P. pendulum 6660, R. tsariense 6661, P. strumosa 6658

Poda
things on the way to the Pō La - P. eburnea, Gent. amoena, Mec. grandis among others. And Taylor has another 150 specimens between Sirimo & Shakti! No mail reached them yet. I am sending their mail down by special runner - 1st day Le, 2nd beyond Shakti. It should reach Trashi-yang on 13th, so I hope Taylor may get it in Bhutan yet.

10th November. Trimo. Fine, much warmer in morning till 10:30, clouded. We left Tsona in true Tsona style. Everything was ready, ponies paid for & agreement signed, faithful promises to turn up by sunrise. Actually it was 9:00 before the mules loaded up & had to dig out one of the cooks & make him go in front of me till the Pō La. I went to the Dzongpen who seemed a nice man & fairly well educated. The only really interesting thing he talked about was Tawang, when he mentioned two points: one that the Tibetans felt very much that the officials visiting there from Assam were shooting so much, especially now the new Dalai Lama is expected: & the other was a complaint against the translator who was up with the Assam Govt official. The Dzongpen said that the Babu never told them the same as the Sahib said, but gave his own version. The Dzongpen talks Hindi pretty well, but he was not there himself. I left at 9:30 am, & reached the Pass at 12:30 & Trimo at 4:30 pm. Phunbo was very bad last night, but recovered quickly, & was well enough to ride here, has no fever now. But Dzongpen was ill today, with a very bad head, was sick on the way to the Pass.

Prim.
Gent.
Mec.
Rhodo
However he also is much better this evening. We found a very little of the Prim. eburnea Ludlow mentioned, some rather unripe G. amoena, a little Mec. grandis, & several Rhododendrons. To allow everyone to recover, & to give us a chance to get some seed, I am stopping here tomorrow. It is very nice to be here, because from here on it will be warm & dry & we will have no more transport troubles.

RB
The latter have loomed large with me this year, & it is good to feel they are now over. And none of us are sorry to get to a warm place again. Presents of butter, rice, cloths etc. from H.H. the Maharani, Padmadechen, Phunbo Wangdi Palden. They had been as far as Tsari Chinchu & back again looking for us.

SUMMARY:
Notes a possible plumbago like one found near Lhakhang Dzong in 1933 and a new Trochalopteron (perhaps henrici), with locals described as helpful unlike those at Tsona. At Tro Shika on 20 April, the writer describes a picturesque, cultivated valley and recounts a passport exchange with the Dzongpen handled by Pinto, who returned with apologies.

CONTENT:
or plumbago of some kind. I hope it may be that we found near Lhakhang Dzong in 1933. It is just turning green, but I can't find any old seeds. There is also a new Trochalopteron, perhaps Henrici, which we have not seen before. The locals are all nice and helpful, not like the Tsona people at all.

20th April. Tro Shika. 9 m. BP. 190.6 Temp. 60°. Time 4:00 pm. Approx Ht. 12,253'. Another grand day, with a wonderful sky, clouding over by 3:00 pm. It felt quite hot all day, and certainly is compared to what we are now used to. A very picturesque valley, with ruins and villages on both sides. Quite a lot of cultivation at each place, some more trees, mostly poplar and willow, but now peach also. The ruins are said to have been caused by people from beyond the Lopas, who came up, mostly mounted, and plundered the whole valley a long time ago. The Dzongpen did not call but sent for our passport this morning. We sent Pinto back with it and told him to say that it was the duty of the Dzongpen to call first. Pinto came back with most apologetic messages. The result was

SUMMARY:
At Trongsa the party enjoyed a fine day, riding back along the route to collect specimens despite leeches, and noting many butterflies at the Trongsa river before camping near the dzong. They were visited by Maharaj Kumar Dorji; W. pressed him to eat and played the gramophone, while later acrobatic games were better received. The diarist notes mouth trouble becoming septic.

CONTENT:
39

foresight. Owing to mist we again saw none of the
a leech was on the tray which carried in the soup on the way
scenery -

7th July. TRONGSA. 7350'. 8 miles. (An Ht. 7000'). A fine day at
last: misty in the early morning, but no rain till about 4.0pm.
Ludlow & I again rode back along the previous day's route for a
few miles in the early morning. By doing this, we can shoot
more freely, as there are few people about. If we go on ahead in
the morning, the route is always full of coolies, who start at
all hours after 4.0 am. We were again troubled by leeches, but
got some good specimens. Butterflies were out in numbers down
at the bridge over the Trongsa river, there we saw many of
the big papilios, but had no time to catch more than five or
six. The Trongsa river is a fine sight racing through a deep
gorge. Camp near the dzong in a beautiful site, the building
being permanent. This is the winter residence of the maharaja.
Yesterday we were met by the Maharaj Kumar Dorji, a very
nice youth of 24 or so. W. insisted on his coming to dinner,
and in his usual way made him eat all sorts of things which
he did not wish to, much to Ludlow's very disgust. He
also played the gramophone, another entertainment the poor lad
hated. Tonight instead we played silly acrobatic games, which
were much more appreciated. He did not leave till after
10pm, which is very late for us. My mouth has become
septic the last few days, and is rather troublesome. W has also

SUMMARY:
Leaving Trongsa on 9 July, the party crossed the Yuto La, collected Suthora fulvifrons, and noted its behavior and iris color. They described a marked change in habitat on the pass’s eastern side, camped at Gyetsa, and reached Bumthang on July 11, receiving a warm welcome from His Highness the Maharaja.

CONTENT:
2003 9.7.33 ♀ Suthora f. fulvifrons.
2004 . ♂ Niltava n. nepalensis.
2005 . ♂ Horeites b. brunneifrons
2006 . ♂ Siphia strophiata
2007 . ♀ Fulvetta vinipecta
2008 . ♀ Lophophanes beavani.
2009 . ♀ Yuhina gularis.
2010 . ♂ Yuhina occipitalis.

Ludlow Ibis 9
Leaving Trongsa on 9 July we crossed the Yuto La, obtaining Suthora f. fulvifrons in bamboo growth on the summit.
Suthora fulvifrons fulvifrons Iris 26-27. This delightful little bird is utterly fearless of man. Its call is a faint mouse-like "Cheep" which is constantly uttered as it flits from stem to stem. The iris is red-brown.
The descent on the eastern side of the Pass (Yuto La) produced a startling change in scenery, woods of oak, maple & rhodo. giving place to beautiful fir forests with open grassy glades. We camped at Gyetsa, where we found Quail plentiful in the crops.
Short march of 6 miles brought us to Bumthang on July 11, the summer residence of His Highness the Maharaja, where we received the warmest of welcomes.
We stayed in