SUMMARY:
A halt day with fine weather was spent in camp changing and drying pressed flowers, planning to collect on the E face of the Khoma Chu beyond the Rip La; Pasang took a jungle walk and Betty was expected to reach Trashigangsi, with remarks on severe flies noted in June 47. On 26 April they marched about 9 miles to Dengchung in mixed weather, disputing reports of no local flowers and snow at Lulu.

CONTENT:
Dengchung, I want to go there. I have agreed to stay there 6 nights and then come straight back to Khoma instead of Tali Gompa. This saves the locals somewhat, as the Dengchu people will have to take me the full march. Today has been our first wholly fine day with no rain at all.

25th April. Halt. Another fine day, with just a little rain around 4.0 am for half an hour and then mist which the sun had to disperse. We had a slack day today, and I remained in camp all day, and changed flowers and took out dry ones. We now are down to only three presses. There was sun nearly all day and flowers are drying well. Pasang went off by himself for a jungle walk but saw nothing at all. I hope tomorrow is fine, as I think we should get a good deal in the wooded E face of the Khoma Chu beyond the Rip La. Betty will have reached Trashigangsi now, and will be glad of the halt they intend to have there. I think that June may be a pretty foul month, as everyone says how bad the flies are there. However we will be pretty high by then, and perhaps they won't worry us unduly. Certainly in June 47 they were dreadful when Betty and I came down through E. Bhutan.

26th April. DENGCHUNG 9 miles BP. 199.2 63° 12.0. Ht. It has again been mostly fine, though we started with rain and have had more in the afternoon. All the reports I got were that down here there were no flowers at all, while at Lulu there was snow. I am convinced both reports are wrong. Certainly there are more flowers here than we

SUMMARY:
The diarist travels from a halt to Gyechar, meeting H.H. and Luden, is given tea by Tasho Penlo Wangdi at Lame Gompa, and notes magnificent Thalictrum while Ngudup prepares food; Betty slips and hurts her arm but improves the next day. They proceed to Trongsa Dzong, collect some seeds, receive further provisions from H.H., and then march toward Tashiling under clear skies.

CONTENT:
105

31st July - Halt. Another good day, with very heavy rain indeed at night. Each day here has been good & each night very very wet. We were left alone today, except for a few odd things sent to us from someone.

1st August - Gyechar Again fine & sunny until after we reached here at 2.0pm, when there was some rain. We left at 8.0 & H.H. & Luden came out to meet us. Then on, past Lame Gompa where Tasho Penlo Wangdi gave us tea & 'ao-ed' to us from the window of the Dzong. It was very hot & sunny, but very pretty up to the pass, where the Thalictrum (chelidonii?) was really magnificent. Some of the plants were 10 feet high, bearing huge heads of flowers. We should get ample seed there. Ngudup came on here to give us food & see that all was in readiness for us. Betty stood the journey well, but two slips on the clay path near the end hurt her arm a good deal.

2nd August - Trongsa Dzong. From 5.10 am till 11.45, with halt on top of the pass, & the usual flower halts. A perfect day, blue sky & bright sun, of course very hot indeed down here, but there is a breeze. Nothing much to be seen on the way, of any interest, but we got some seeds - of 2 raspberries, & a few of Streptopus & Clintonia. We should get more on our way back. Betty much better today, not feeling her arm so much. H.H. has provided food again here for us all, servants included.

3rd August - Tashiling A clear night & hardly a cloud in the sky this morning. A good march, never too hot, as we were off by 5.15, through the huge Dzong, & down to the bridge over the

SUMMARY:
A Jongpen provided sugar, dried fruit, and a rifle for a potentially dangerous journey to the Lola, and is praised—along with the Chayul Jongpens—as helpful and pro-British. On 3 November at Yar Shika, the party travelled in fine weather; Ludlow went on ahead, and the writer reviewed the first part of Damon’s collection while contending with strong winds and uncertain information about the Karta-Pula Dza La route between Trashi Trongme and Tsuna. On 4 November at Shio Dzong, conditions were again good with peaks clearing by morning.

CONTENT:
should be made, she says he did it with great success. Sugar & kishmish were provided by the Jongpen. The latter said that perhaps they would be in danger going to the Lola that they should take a rifle with them. He gave one, & made them take it, which I think was extremely good of him. He gave a great deal of help all the way, & undoubtedly he & the Chayul Jongpens are very nice helpful people, & both very pro-British.

3rd November. Yar Shika. 11500? 12 m. A perfect day. Left at 6.30, in at 1.30 pm. Ludlow went on further from here, & I believe transport was very late. Went over the first 45 of Damon's collection, they are very uninteresting so far. But we are reaching the more interesting zone. I'm afraid he missed a great deal. There is a perfectly hellish wind here tonight, though there was hardly any till 3.0 pm. I can find out nothing about the Karta-Pula Dza La route, though one man said two days from Trashi Trongme to Tsuna, which is obviously all wrong.

4th November. Shio Dzong 15m. 13200' Another perfect day: all the peaks are cloudy, but clear by 7.0 am. There were no gymnosperms in

SUMMARY:
The diary records medical aid to many locals, hunting and bird observations near Tonse and Saman, and a major forest fire near Tonse Dzong filling the valley with smoke. After halts and a cold, windy lake crossing to Be, the writer notes help from the local headman and visits nearby iron mines, describing the shaft and a small blast furnace and taking ore samples.

CONTENT:
57

Threatening looking. Half the population came today for medicine. There were about 20 in the morning, followed by 60 after lunch. We did not go out today. Lahu got 3 geese, 1 at the Tonse and 2 near Saman.

6th Feb. Halt. Went upstream again towards Tonse Dzong. Last night the forest on the hill near the Dzong had been set on fire and was blazing all day today. The whole valley was filled with blue smoke, visibility very poor. We did not quite reach the Dzong. I saw 3 kingfishers, and shot two. The little ringed plover I got the other day are paired off and apparently breeding. Saw a few geese - about 30 mallard. The kingfishers are I think only the second we have seen in SE Tibet in all our trips. Once we saw one near Charme (Sanga Choling). There are undoubtedly fish in the lake, as there are a number of goosander and some cormorants always to be seen. The locals say they cannot catch fish in winter, as the water is too clear and the fish see the hooks.

7th Feb. Halt. Stayed in camp. It is getting very warm nowadays, as the max. temp shows. The whole valley is now filled with blue smoke, the fire at Tonse continues.

8th-9th Feb. Halt.

10th Feb. Be. Cold and a strong wind up the lake. We took 2 1/2 hours in the double boat to reach here, and it was very cold indeed. The Dzongpon's 'tsap' refused to come at the last moment.

11-12 Feb. Very cold all day, but gradually clearing up. Local headman is a good soul and helps a great deal in getting our supplies.

13th Feb. Went up to the iron mines, about 3 miles above Be, and 200' up from the lake. The shaft goes into the hillside at an angle down of about 10°. It is 40-50' long and does not appear to be used much. I took samples of the ore. It is smelted at the same place. The blast furnace is a hollow about 6 ft x 3' x 3', with two hollow holes and a hole in the roof.

[Diagram labels:]
hole for smoke
holes for bellows
this part bricked up when full of ore and charcoal. Iron when smelted goes to bottom and is then taken out.

SUMMARY:
The author discusses hopes that the monsoon is ending, tests a walking stick gun for use in dense jungle, and worries about overdue mail and poor arrangements by the Trashigang Dzongpen. On 28th August they march 9 miles to Lao, experiencing fine weather until late morning followed by heavy rain and returning to the leech zone.

CONTENT:
78

eggs & beans & potatoes, all very welcome, as we had none left. I now tell Ludlow that this is the end of the monsoon. As a rule it is he who is so optimistic about the weather. After such a heavy monsoon to start with, it might quite likely finish off early, though I hardly believe it myself. Ludlow tried the walking stick gun yesterday & found it distinctly dangerous. But after peeling all the outer covering away, I found it very good this morning. Perhaps after all it will come in useful. Something of the sort is needed in the very thick low jungle in which many of the most interesting birds live. It is time Pimbo came back; he must have found the road in worse condition than he expected. There are several bridges down we know. The non-arrival of any mail is very worrying. We should have had two since reaching here, but have had none, nor any news of them. The Trashigang Dzongpen was so optimistic about everything, but his arrangements seem to have been pretty bad.

28th August. LAO. 9 miles. 9203' (B.P. 195.6° Temp 60°).

Fine till 11.0 am then heavy rain most of the day. Back into the leech zone with a vengeance. As soon as we

SUMMARY:
A list of supplies and equipment to obtain (films, boots, petrol, photo accessories, and books), including items from A+N Stores and Kodaks. Notes an address for Williamson Magor & Co. in Calcutta, books for Bhutan photos, and a wedding present for Miss Douglas.

CONTENT:
Venesta articles - Williamson Magor & Co 4 Mangoe Lane Calcutta

A+N. Shorts blue khaki.
A+N. Film color intensifier, varnish. Lumiere gelatine celluloid for covering photos.
Kodaks All films, packs, rolls.
A+N 2 Books for Bhutan photos.
A+N Sponge dish cloth.
A+N "Snipe shooting" boots. A+N Stores.
Not Bassett-Lowke Gauge 0 engine.
A+N Petrol.
A+N. Kwish Christmas cards.
Wedding present for Miss Douglas.
"Tibetan Trek" Kaulback
A+N. Sock suspenders.
Adair Dutt. Portrait attachment Contax lens.

SUMMARY:
Page lists estimated costs for moving coolies and living expenses for routes involving Bumthang, Lhuntse, Tiyangsi, Shingbe, and Narimthang, including separate estimates for Betty and G.S. It records cash taken from H.H. on two dates in 1949.

CONTENT:
7

Estimated Cost.

All 50 coolies to Bumthang 150
" " " Lhuntse 300
450 + Rs 150 exp. 600

Betty 35 " " Tiyangsi 210
" " " Shingbe 140
350 + Rs 150 exp. 500

Six weeks in Shingbe 500 expenses 500
35 coolies to Narimthang 12 days 420 + 420
2½ weeks in " 250 expenses 250
35 coolies to Bumthang 420 + 230 exp. 500
2170
Say Rs 2500
Take 3000

G.S. 18 coolies at 35 days moving 660
Expenses 340
1000 Say 1500 Take 2500

Cash taken from H.H. 2000 + 3000 Rs 5000/- 6.4.49
1000/- 30.7.49

SUMMARY:
Ledger of expenses for presents, stores, insurance, tickets, transport, tips, and wages, including movements and freight from Srinagar to Lahore to Rangiya and journeys through Diwangiri, Pintso-gong, and Trashigang. Entries note payments to a postmaster, a pradhan, and a Maharaja's sepoy, as well as porters and syces, and costs over Kurtip and Danong passes.

CONTENT:
xxx = 50 car. With ink cross = out of Rs 2000 cash.
25 sugar. " pencil " = settled between ourselves.
17 transport. no cross = paid by me in notes.

Expenses.

Presents: 2 enamel boxes. ✓ 100 Oil, sigris etc. x 20
3 agate ✓ 100 A&N. Stores: "Lilo", cartridges, etc. x 40
3 Papier mache bowls. ✓ 24 Postmaster, Kumari Khata. x 150.
4 prs. gloves. 8/6. ✓ 18 Tips etc. x 25
2 Alarm watches. ✓ 90 Diwan Menoka to Diwangiri. x 17.
1 roll puttoo ✓ 12 Diwangiri to Satsalor. x 7.
Saffron. ✓ 25. Pay Putso dancing. x 100.
1 automatic pistol. Satsalor to Chunkar. + tips. x 8.
9 puttoo hats. ✓ 10 Chunkar to Khomanaggri + tips 4. x 8.
Three doz. whisky 1 rum. 140 Khomanaggri to Balfai 5 tips 4 x 9
4" Kh. serge. x 58. Balfai to Pintso-gong Rs 5 x 5
Stores from Kellner. Adv. sent. x 500. xxx Pradhan for sugar, RR's & coolies. x 100
Insurance of adv. goods. approx. x 45 Tanchas 500 @ 10 & 1 Rs. x 50.
7 yakdans Srinagar to Lahore x 28 Pay syces D'giri to Pintso-gong 12. B'shish 10 x 22
11 " Lahore to Rangiya x 120 Pintso-gong to Trashigang. Rs 5. + tips 4. x 9
3 prs shoes at Rs 4-8 ✓ 14 Tigong to Phungmi via Rungsyung tips x 17
Lorry & taxi to Lahore 60+30 x 90 Sheep 4 To Sakden 4 Laman 5. x 13
Excess baggage Lahore - Calcutta. x 100 Rupees to tanchas 2000. @ 10. x 200.
Tickets to Calcutta. 42+209 x 251 Maharaja's sepoy x 10
Ice etc. x 15 " " x 15.
Tickets to Rangiya. x 114 To Trashigang for postmen. 1 mth (Sept) x 40.
Luggage. " " x 45 Kurtip Pass. x 20
Additional stores. Kellner. x 133. Danong Pass. 50
2032 935

• SUMMARY:
  The diarist records a warm farewell from friends in Bumthang, including H.H. and the ladies (notably Ashe Paldon), with gifts and a light‑hearted evening dressing in various outfits. Route notes describe an easy ascent along the left bank to THANG NARU, a river difficult to ford in summer, muddy sections, a 150-foot cliff with houses and a monastery, and scattered houses along the Tang Chu valley.

CONTENT:
43

Tobgye & Ludlow

• m. 13. The river is of considerable size in summer & would only
  at farewell at

• be fordable in certain places with difficulty. Thence easy
  Bumthang: on

• ascent along left bank to THANG NARU at m 15. 1/2 mile
  first pass beyond

• above bridge there is a 150' cliff on R. bank of river below which
  Bumthang. F.L.,

• are some houses & a monastery. Route here is very muddy in
  Tobgye, Dorji.

• rainy weather. There are scattered houses all up the Tang Chu

• valley. Fuel water abundant.

We were both genuinely sorry to leave Bumthang, not because we were leaving the place, but because we were leaving good friends. H.H. is still a little nervous & awkward, & difficult to talk to, but he was kindness itself to us. He has taken a great deal of trouble in seeing about our arrangements East of Bumthang. Although he has not definitely asked us to return, he has repeatedly said that if Bailey should come again, we must come with him. The ladies were very kind, especially Ashe Paldon, who heaped gifts on us, & made us promise to write to her if we had any kind of trouble at all. On our last night in Bumthang Mrs W. dressed up as a Bhutanese lady, & induced the Maharani to get into her clothes. She looked very well, & I think rather fancied herself. I also dressed in Tobgye's clothes, while Ludlow put on one of the Sikkim chaprassis' clothes. I have seldom seen such a funny sight as he looked. We had a very cheery evening with it all. Leaving took some time. We had received so many gifts from H.H. & the ladies,

SUMMARY:
The diarist describes plant collecting on cliffs and sand slopes, with Pasang separately gathering notable specimens, and notes wildlife sightings, weather, and plans to camp higher and visit Marlung. Letters were sent to Betty and Asha Wangmoo. On 4 July, amid active trade movement, Pasang and Yundun collected more plants near the Sekpen's huts, and plans are considered for a September trip to the Tibdey La after returning from Bumthang.

CONTENT:
1 June
Went to a big cliff straight ahead. This was covered at the foot with almost white P. umbratilis (19332), and with a lot of the yellow Sax I saw 2 days ago, glabricaulis (19306). Then again to the right, then found P. waddellii and one or two other good things, including a high altitude Delphinium muscosum (19328) and a Sax bergianoides (19329) and a nice dwarf plant which I don't remember seeing before (19327), which grows in sand slopes below cliffs. Pasang was separate, and he got one fine big Gentian, G. phyllocalyx (19322), and also a very pretty little white Potentilla coriandrifolia (19324), which I'd like to get seed of, but unfortunately he only saw enough for the press.

Pasang saw many bharal, I saw one. I must take out the gun and have a go at one one day. We were lucky today, as it was almost fine the whole day until 5 minutes after we returned, when there was a deluge of rain. Really we should camp now at 14,500' to get the best of the alpines. They all seem to be high, and camping here at 12,000' is far too low: it makes a long walk to reach 15,000'. Tomorrow we have an off day, then go up to Marlung, at about 13,500'. Perhaps from there I will send the lads off for a couple of nights to one of the yakherds' shelters, which now mostly seem to be about 14,500'. Sent off a letter to Betty and one to Asha Wangmoo this morning.

4th July. Halt. More fine than wet. Great moving of trade up and down today, mostly Bhutanese, but also Tibetans. I stayed in camp, but Pasang and Yundun preferred to go out. They went up the valley behind the Sekpen's huts, then over the ridge to the north, and they collected 10 quite good plants, including one fine Prim. soldanelloides (19346), which was growing on a cliff, which I think unusual. I've always seen it just on steep open grassy hillside. Ngudup seemed surprised when I told him we would return here after Bumthang, for seed. I've been wondering whether it might not be good to go to the Tibdey La for Sept 1-12th or 15th.