Part 49 - Arrival at Tawang and halt; discussions with local authorities

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SUMMARY:
The party arrived at Tawang in heavy rain after their horses gave out, with baggage arriving late or not at all. An acting body in place of a Dzongpen failed to assist, while a lama from another Bhutan-affiliated monastery offered help that was declined. The entry notes Tawang’s large gompa community and cultivation, a glimpse of the Tawang Chu, and a halt on 13 July with further discussions with Tibetans who were willing but unable to help.

CONTENT:
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Then rode on to Tawang. Eventually our horses gave out and we walked. A man sent to help us was quite useless as no one took any notice of what he said. Finally we reached here at 1.0 p.m. The kit gradually came up. Half arrived before dark, and half did not arrive at all. There is no Dzongpen, but an acting body of six men, half lamas and half lay. They did nothing, but hoped for the best. A leaky tent was pitched for us and presents of food given. Lamas and others called. Then a lama from another monastery, owing allegiance to Bhutan called. He frankly said the acting Dzongpens had hopelessly failed in their duty, but that he would do anything we liked - transport, horses, stores etc. We could not accept of course. Tawang consists of a walled gompa of houses with about 550-600 lamas. The valleys round about are well cultivated, rice mostly and buckwheat over. We got a glimpse of the Tawang Chu in the morning. All day up here we have been in the clouds in heavy incessant rain. The worst and most depressing day we have ever had.

13th July. Halt at TAWANG. We had a great discussion today with the Tibetans, who professed willingness but more or less inability to help us. Finally some pretty