Part 91 - Approach to Nayü La from the Tsangpo valley; camps at Nayü Chu and north of the pass

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SUMMARY:
The diarist leaves the Tsangpo valley toward Nayü La, noting views of Gyala Tsutum and a local legend linking its summit to Samye via Yüsum. On 5th July at Nayü Chu, progress is delayed by lack of coolies despite assurances from Kusho and the gyimpon; on 6th July, after heavy rain, the party camps north of Nayü La and records notable plants including Lilium giganteum, a white water lily, and Smilacina.

CONTENT:
...were there, and had a talk with her. I only just caught a glimpse of her this morning.

The Nayü La is said to be only two days off, an easy pass which is only shut by snow in the Tibetan 10th month, which would be December. And we heard before that Lopas had come to Tsela in May. The gyimpon says he has gone to the first Lopa houses in four days from here, but that a Lopa, if he wants to could reach them in two from here, going light. Just as I was leaving the Tsangpo valley today it started to clear up in the East, and I caught a glimpse of a lovely scene, which I hope I will see again. Straight down the valley, beyond Tsela Dzong is a lovely snow covered mountain, locally called Gyala Tsutum (G. Peri of the map?). It is said to have had its top cut off, to be carried to Samye. But when at Yüsum, it was stopped in some way by a female deity (?) and planted there. The little hill just S of Yüsum is now said to be this peak, and pilgrims go round it.

5th July. Camp in Nayü Chu. 5 miles. Fine and bright all day long. No rain. A wasted day however. Kusho assured us there was no trouble about coolies, that all would be ready early in the morning. He always says this, and cannot get him to say what he knows. Three coolies had turned up by 8.0 am, then I went off. We waited some hours on the way up and two more appeared. Finally had to stop here, and we waited hopefully as gradually an odd man turned up, till finally the last lot of impressed Lopas arrived in camp at 6.30 pm. So at any rate we are off and with luck should reach the Pass tomorrow. Nothing of interest again. P. Florindae very common, and P. firmipes (flexilipes?) also, but over. The tree GIUGO from which the wooden teapots are made is a maple of sorts, not the one found further west though. I have not seen it before. (No. 5740.).

6th July. Camp about 4 m. N. of Nayü La. 9 miles. BP. 193.4. Temp 65° Time 2.30 pm. Ht app. 10700'
Rained pretty steadily at night, and all morning there was heavy rain. From 2.0 pm on, more or less fine. This was a much more interesting day. I am surprised how low we still are, but we have reached the very wet zone, and flowers are more numerous. I saw what is almost certainly P. Whitei on the way up here - not in flower of course. The most interesting things were Lil. giganteum 5743, and a white water lily 5759, the first we have ever come across. A new Smilacina too was collected, 5756, and a beautifully coloured one 5754, probably the same as that taken in Bhutan last year. This valley must have been a huge lake at some time. It abounds in swamps, in fact...