Part 105 - Tsanang La and Kongshong: heavy rain, bridge loss, and Kucha La preparations (19–21 July)

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SUMMARY:
Amid continuous rain and cold, the party at Tsanang Gompa finds their bridge washed away, fords the river via a natural crossing, and gathers mixed reports about the steepness of Kucha La. Reaching Kongshong, they pay off reluctant coolies, send Kusho to recruit more with nine days’ rations, and prepare for the pass. On a halt day, despite illness and heavy morning rain, the diarist makes a strenuous 4,000 ft climb as the weather clears at the top.

CONTENT:
Tsanang La 19 July. P. florindae 5877 G. phyllocalyx 5878
20 July. R. xanthocodon 5883.

19th July. Tsanang Gompa. 6 miles. Very heavy rain all night and today. We did not get off till 8.30, as the coolies had to come up from 2 miles down the valley. A filthy morning even, cold. New snow lying pretty thick on the hills above 14,000'. Our bridge, made on the 17th, had been washed away, but we found another natural one further up over half the river, the other half being fordable. Rain pours down steadily without a stop, and I am surprised how cold it has become. News about the Kucha La is still difficult to get. It is said to be as steep as the Tsanang La, but I can hardly credit that, as Lopas do use it, and it would be very difficult to cross the Tsanang La loaded as Lopas always are. The only way to find out is to go and see. The gompa here is said to be very old, about 350 years or so. There is a newer one too about 100 years old, now much smaller than it used to be. The old monastery contains some very fine old tankas. It is said to be under the Lhalu family; the only lama here complains that nowadays they get no allowance, no rations or anything, all of which they used to have. News from local people about the Kucha La is rather more hopeful. They say three days are enough to reach it from Kongshong. I hope so.

20th July. Kongshong. 6 miles. Rain all day. The coolies, going homewards, found no difficulty in getting here in two days, and would have gone on to Pana with the greatest ease. One of them did tell Tsungpen that they were unwilling to go to the Tsanang La; that is why they kept back the whole time. Phutso would have got them on alright though. The river is much lower than when we went up, but why I don't know. Paid off coolies and sent Kusho in to get another lot, with nine days' rations, to allow for three up, three at the Pass, and three down. In the meantime we must spend two very dull days here, waiting for coolies to collect rations.

21st July. Halt. This was really a red-letter day. All last night it poured and all today up till 12.0 noon it poured. I had decided to go up a hill to the North of the valley—a climb of 4000 ft fully. This morning though, I was not feeling fit, very weak and with a bit of fever. The rain was almost too much for me, and for a while we hesitated. However, I felt I must go and left at 5.30 am in pouring rain to start the climb, which proved much further and much steeper than I had expected. I could only go slowly, and we did not reach the top till nearly midday, but we got there alright. Then the weather suddenly cleared up, and we had a