Part 160 - Tre to Tsona, 8–9 November: severe wind, travel, and staffing changes

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SUMMARY:
The diarist describes violent winds near Tre that wrecked tents, forcing a camp beside a house, and a difficult march with wildlife sightings before nearing Tsona. On 9 November they reached Tsona amid snow, found Pinbo ill with malaria, settled arrangements for ponies, paid off Kusho and Kesang, and noted correspondence from Ludlow at Shakti.

CONTENT:
8th Nov, Tre. Very strong wind all night, which nearly ruined the tents and gave us no sleep at all. The wind continued today, I should think about 40-50 mph. On the Nyalaha Malwat, Jill was after it at once. But she never had a chance. In 100s it was 50 yards ahead of her, 1000 in fact. So I have no hat now. The wind there was really terrific and made me feel quite sick, which I have never felt before. It continued all day and there was no hope of a tent standing in the open here, so I am camped beside a house in the manure which is feet deep. But we drive for the full blast. There is a storm away to the East, where clouds gathered all day; snow seems to be falling. We left before sunrise (to us) at about 6:30 am, were in at 4:30 pm. The locals very good, provided what firewood they have, water, yak dung and soon were sweeping up some of the manure as soon as we arrived. A beast of a day, but I'm glad we came on here, as Tsona is a very easy march from here tomorrow. Near the pass I saw about a dozen ammon and a herd of 8-10 burhel too, but there was no possibility in that cold wind to take a cinema of them as I had hoped to do. Kusho rode on from here to Tsona today - a long trek and one that must have been particularly unpleasant. He is all out to finish up well, as he thinks his tip will depend on that: is confident of arranging yaks without our having to halt a day in Tsona, but I tell him he does not know Tsona yet. Kesang also leaves us at Tsona, so I will just have Lhakpa and Tsongpen, but the latter is very good indeed, will make all necessary arrangements I expect down the Nyam Jang Chu.

9th November. Tsona. Cloudy, windy and snow off and on all day. Glad to get here, especially as we surprisingly found Tsona warmer than Tre or Shoto. Pinbo was here, having arrived on the 7th. But he is laid up with pretty bad malaria; his stomach is right out of order. I hope he will be able to come on tomorrow; I think that he should, to get down to a warmer climate. Ponies all arranged, so we don't have to wait here tomorrow. I have paid off Kusho and Kesang, and told Kusho I might engage him as postman in 1940 between Gyantse and Poyal or Sadiya and Poyal. He seems anxious for the service, and would do it well. He would need a pony, which he could buy for Rs. 40/- or less, and I know would be reliable for such work. Another note from Ludlow at Shakti on 3rd. They found a lot of food.