SUMMARY:
Entries describe 30–31 May at Charithang with fine then rainy weather, scarce birds, collection of Primula Kingii, and mail; guide Pintsho went to Yatung and returned with mules to prepare for the march. On 1 June they marched about 10 miles to Damthang, crossing Kyu La (14,150') and Ha La (13,950') in heavy rain; despite everyone getting wet, the kit stayed dry and women coolies carried comparable loads.

CONTENT:
92
Berberis lasioclema (41) sp. nov.

30th May. Charithang. A fine day with no rain up to 4.0 p.m. Went
B.7. contd. Yaks up towards the pass, but birds very scarce. Collected some
going out to graze. specimens of Primula Kingii (6/12.40), half a mile above Charithang
Temporary huts on the left going up. They grow in very wet swampy ground.
erected for Pol. Off. Pintsho (the Bhutan Guide) left in the morning for Yatung, taking our post. Another
at Charithang mail reached us today, including a home mail.

31st May. Charithang. Both felt very slack today, so hardly went out
at all. Rain nearly all day. Pintsho returned with mules for our
B.7 all excellent march to Damthang tomorrow, so we packed up all kit & birds.
except butterflies.
Bhutan The mud plain (L.)
1st June. DAMTHANG. (The muddy meadow). 10 miles. An. ht. 10,300'. Map 9750'?
A collection of coolies, male & female, and mules turned up to
B.7. finished. take our transport to Damthang, & they started off at odd times.
Scenes at The last off, with us, left at 7.30. All were in here at 3.0 p.m.,
Charithang except one man who came in at 6.30. It was a lovely
as our transport morning, & we were armed with butterfly nets, besides flower
was leaving. presses & guns. But by the time we reached the Kyu La at
Close ups of types, 11.0, the rain had started. Kyu La is 14150' & a mile
woman carrying further on is the Ha La, 13950'. By then the rain was very
baby; women heavy, & remained so till 2.30. We were all pretty wet
coolies wearing by the time we got in, but the kit was kept pretty
various hats, dry by tarpaulins. Of the coolies, women even seemed to
taking snuff. take nearly the same load, & they came in together. The
B.8. As above ascent is not bad, & between the passes is a dip of
first 35 ft. 500 ft, mostly over stony ground pretty well covered

SUMMARY:
The party reports porter issues over passports, which the lama Dzongpen reprimanded, and compares local wages with those of the Lhasa military forces. On 2nd July they traveled to Charme, changing coolies at Tankor, arriving by noon and finding conditions too dry for many flowers, with only a few plants collected and peaches still unripe.

CONTENT:
taken to the lama Dzongpen who told them off properly. Either the reason is because last year K. Ward, having no passport, gave them very much more than the normal, or it is just a try on. But I think it is due to K.W. because they have been always telling Tendup that we have no passport, so they won't take us. Actually we give them much more than any official ever would. A man driving Tapion for the Lhasa military forces for 1 shas for 2 days, whereas we give 2 shas a day.

2nd July. Charme. 10200' 11 miles. A perfect day, not nearly as hot as I had expected, as there was a strongish wind always blowing up the valley. We had to change coolies at the first village, Tankor, that rather delayed things, as only a few were ready. The last to be produced were old ladies of 60 or so. We were to change at the second village too, but there were no men there, so we did not, & arrived here at 12.0. Too dry to be any use for flowers. Only for one cotoneaster, one Lonicera?, & fern. The peaches here are very hard & unripe yet, and saw no gooseberries as we had hoped. When I paid the men - or rather women -

SUMMARY:
The diarist records finding three beautiful primulas growing under overhanging rocks near the CHO LA/Tulung La and photographing them despite late-afternoon mist. The route is said not to have been previously travelled by Europeans and is famed as the path by which Lobpön Rimpoché entered Tibet from India, with a note that CHO LA should likely be written as CHÖ.

CONTENT:
from Tsona to Dongkar were here. Besides M. horridula there were a number of the Tulung La little meconopsis. Two gentians were in seed and were collected on the CHO LA. Down this side we both thought of Prim. eburnea, and within a few minutes came across it. It was growing in a typical situation, under overhanging rocks and in clefts of rocks. It is certainly a beauty. Beside it, in even more pronounced clefts and more under overhanging rocks, was a, to us, new primula. It is also a beauty, very delicate and very sweet scented. It looks like a greenhouse cineraria. With these two again in similar situations, was a third primula — the Seti primula collected on the way to Mago. All three are beauties and all three grow in the same habitat. I took photos of all, but it was late — 4:00 pm by our time — and the mist was low which was very difficult. Results reasonably good.

For other reasons this is an interesting route. It has not been travelled before by Europeans. It is famed as the route by which Lobpön Rimpoché entered Tibet from India when he introduced Buddhism to Tibet. He stopped between the CHO LAs. For that reason the CHO LA should probably be written CHÖ, meaning "religious".

SUMMARY:
Entries for 18–22 August describe halts at Chomo Dzong and Kyabden, poor weather, and a short march crossing the Nyang Chu in four coracles. Taylor became seriously ill at Kyabden (suspected appendicitis or gastric ulcer), prompting messages to Lhasa for help and to call Ludlow; he later improved.

CONTENT:
again very slow indeed. Left at 6.30 am, last coolies in at 6.00 pm. Again very little seen. Primula latisecta common a few miles up the valley from here. Seed not yet ripe. A large monastery here, & considerable cultivation. Crops just about to be harvested, some barley already cut & in.

18th August. Halt. Chomo Dzong. Wet a good deal of the day.

19th August. Kyabden. 5 miles. Fine with showers. We crossed the Nyang Chu opposite Chomo Dzong in four kowas, the stream is in two channels very swift. Path up N bank good & easy, though swampy in places. No villages passed till camp reached.

20th August. Halt. Kyabden. Taylor has been very ill here, with some unknown complaint. So much so that I sent off to Lhasa for help if possible, also to call Ludlow. It appeared to be appendicitis, with awful pains, nausea, vomiting & a high rate of pulse.

21st August. Halt. Kyabden.

22nd August. Halt. Kyabden. This went on till yesterday evening, when after vomiting, he said he was all right, & that the pains had gone. Shortly before this the pain seemed to have localized to the left of the navel. What it has been I don't know, though I should think a gastric ulcer is possible. He is ever so much better today, & I have sent off to

SUMMARY:
Arrangements for transport were secured via clerks in the absence of a Dzongpon or Drunyer, and Pedong Dorje plans to accompany the party to Trigu. On 14 May they marched 13 miles to Chong gye Dzong in intense heat, noted extreme dryness in the valley, passed a large wall of chortens, and recorded that the old Dzong is the birthplace of the Great Fifth Dalai Lama; plans were made to reach Trigu in two days.

CONTENT:
on, eventually a kind of dayig was given me, and transport was promised. All was done by 3 clerks, as there is no Dzongpon and even the Drunyer has gone, so no seal could be put on the paper, but all seems well. Pedong Dorje insists on coming with us to Trigu.

14th May. Chong gye Dzong 13 miles. A good day, but very hot indeed and difficult for Jill. Transport was late, but we got off at 7:30 and were in by 2:15 pm. The valley is very dry indeed. There is no water in the river at all, none in any irrigation channels and only a little in wells. The whole valley is broad and full of cultivation. I have never seen so much in Tibet before - even near Gyantse. About mile 7 we passed a small village with a huge wall of chortens all joined together, each about 6 ft square and perhaps 10-12 ft tall. There were supposed to be 108 chortens. I counted more than that. Here the old Dzong is perched on a ridge and consists of several buildings joined together by bridges. This is the birthplace of the Great Fifth Dalai Lama. All seems set for tomorrow's march, which could be done in one to Trigu. But I intend to go in two days. As usual, there is no Dzongpon. Every Dzongpon has been called to Lhasa, and only tsapos or clerks are left. But I don'

SUMMARY:
Travel in rain from Karponang toward Gangtok is noted, alongside frustration with Williamson over inaction on Tibet permission. On 23rd May at Chumbitang, a well-attended wedding took place with ceremonies at the White Hall and lunch at the Residency, supported by the Maharani of Sikkim; Waters played the organ and the writer acted as official photographer.

CONTENT:
a little rain, below Karponang mist till near Gangtok, where it seems beastly hot and muggy. Mules came on well and were in by 1.0 p.m. Williamson has done nothing at all about our Tibet permission, and presumably will do nothing. He thinks of nothing and no one but himself, and his motto is undoubtedly 'Anything for a quiet life'; this attitude in any question one of complete inactivity for as long as possible.

23rd May. CHUMBITANG. 34 miles. The wedding was a great success, except that it rained all morning. W and I rode down to the White Hall accompanied by three bands. The Hall was beautifully decorated and was crowded with from 100 to 150 people. Waters was organist and played parts of three records on the gramophone. After it was all over we had an excellent lunch at the Residency at which about 40 people were present. Lunch was outside, under tents luckily, as it rained pretty hard. I had the Maharani of Sikkim and the Maharaja's sister, Tobgye's wife, on either side. They are both very nice indeed. The Maharani especially enjoyed the whole wedding, and took such a lot of interest in it. Three of her children and one of Tobgye's were train bearers and looked very well in Tibetan dress. She supplied spare cutlery, silver, crockery, chairs and anything that was wanted, including masses of flowers and the roses for the bouquet. Among other duties I had to perform that of official photographer, which was not too easy in the awful rush.

SUMMARY:
Rain and an injured companion (Nyudup) force halts, while a man from H.H. delivers a large box of tinned supplies. Letters mention fishing in Ha and Richardson’s note that Ludlow should have little difficulty making a final visit to Tibet; little botanical progress is made despite searches with Pasang. Mail is sent to Kpong, Betty, H.H., and Wangmoo, and the party marches 7 miles to Dunkhar hoping for fine weather to reach Thu.

CONTENT:
there is another village close to. Rain again this evening.
5th May. Halt. A fine day, lovely morning, till 5.0 pm when the
rain came on again. No flowers, although we went high up
the hillside - open oak forest. But I must stay yet another
day as Nyudup has got a poisoned foot & can't walk. This
afternoon a man from H.H. arrived with a huge box (70 lbs)
of tinned things! I don't know how to stop him. We have all
we need here with us, & now he has sent nearly half as
much again. It is very very kind. Tobgye sent on a letter
from Ludlow to him, in which he describes the fishing in
Ha as quite wonderful. He also sends Richardson's latest
letter in which it seems there will be little difficulty in
Ludlow getting in his last visit to Tibet. That is a good thing
for Ludlow. With H.H.'s present came a mail from Kpong
13th April, but little news in my part of it. I hear H.H. has
sent on even more to Betty than to me. We must stop this
somehow.

6th May. Halt. Fine again up till 2.0 pm then clouded & some rain.
Pasang & I tried another direction this morning, but we failed
to find anything. The last week hasn't produced more than
15 specimens I believe. We must get on up. Mail to Kpong
& to Betty & H.H. & Wangmoo all go off tomorrow morning.

7th May. Dunkhar 7 miles. Another fine day. I just hope that we
will have three more fine days. It would make a lot of
difference could we but get into Thu or wherever it is we
are to stay on a fine day, when we can see where we
are going. From here we get some idea, but not much.

SUMMARY:
The diarist describes settlements and mani stones near Dzama in the Pemako region, attempts to trace the Kongbo Tsangpo from Adju la, and notes forests of pines along the Tsangpo with a sighting of a quail and Carmine Cherry in bloom near Chanzam. The following day is a halt due to cloud, snow on the Gyala Peri–Namcha side, and evening rain.

CONTENT:
Feb 23. Vaccinium leucobotryum 12251
Prunus cerasoides var. rubra 12252
Rhod. scopulorum 12248
61

in appearance, indeed some of them are sons or grandsons of real Bhutanese who settled in Pemako. This area is more popular than the Yigrong Chu area. There are signs of several new villages being started on both banks of the Po Tsangpo. This route must be old though. There is a mani rock, a pile of mani stones in the middle of the dense forest near Dzama which looks very old indeed. On nearly all manis there are old stone pots, carved with manis, which are attractive. They are said to be brought up from Pemako & made there. I would like to take one back if it is possible. From the Adju la I studied the mass face opposite to see if I could follow the route of the Kongbo Tsangpo, but it appeared quite impossible that any river could cut through what appeared an endless wall of ice & rock. But this evening, with the sun behind the range, there appears a route, though it seems almost impossible that any river should cut so low. I think this is the finest sight I have ever seen. We reached here too late for photography, but hope for one more good morning tomorrow. Certainly this village, in fine weather, is the finest situated I have ever seen. Close to camp here I see quite a number of the Carmine Cherry tree, in fuller bloom than we found it at Chanzam. While walking along the ridge between the Po Tsangpo & the Guh Tsangpo, I put up a quail, only the second, I think, that we have seen in Tibet. The forest today was mostly wet, broadleaf, but on the Tsangpo, there and this side, there were pines. I see from here down the main Tsangpo valley about four miles away that the l. bank is clothed almost entirely in pines, which seems very extraordinary to me. I would have expected both banks to be wet forest. Clouds are coming up fast this evening, & I doubt if we will get the view we hoped for tomorrow morning.

24th Feb. Halt. It was clouded when we got up this morning, snow was falling low down on the Gyala Peri - Namcha side. This continued all day, & in the evening rain started falling here too. It is a great disappointment to us.
Prunus cerasoides var. rubra 12252

SUMMARY:
Notes concern over missing bird boxes and parcels. Describes travel to Gautsa with rain, a view of Chomolhari, pine forest, few birds, and collecting primula seeds and observing gentians. Reaches Yatung, completes a circular tour, and learns at the Post Office that most parcels were sent, with only a few missing.

CONTENT:
104

our minds at rest about the missing bird boxes. We are
almost certain that at least four boxes are missing -
perhaps 150 - 200 bird skins - an awful loss. Many of our
letters too, and other parcels have also gone astray. It is
very annoying, and there seems little hope of getting any
of them again.

2nd October. TO GAUTSA. 12300' 16½ miles. A good day until
11.0 am when rain came on. Caught a glimpse of
Chomolhari as we left. We are again down among
the pine forest, and it is pleasant to see trees again and
to have a wood fire. Very few birds down here, but
saw some migrants on the plain. Collected seeds of a
primula (probably yellow) from about 13500' or so. The
gentians on the plain were lovely; they appear to be the
same as that we collected on the Munda La at
16500'.

3rd October. TO YATUNG. 9950' 12 miles. We completed our
circular tour today, and had a decent day to do it in too.
Altogether we feel rather braced up today, as in the Post
Office, we find that nearly all our parcels were sent
off from here. There seem to be only perhaps two
missing, and they are not the ones which are of the
greater importance. It is a great relief.

SUMMARY:
Notes on high-altitude collecting near Maruthang, including marked Primula uniflora, and concern over snow making work difficult. The writer reports that Ludlow has given up hopes of visiting Tibet and booked passage home, while at Haat heavy rain and snow are foretold by 'Lerwa' calls and a local drogpa’s warning.

CONTENT:
pretty well finished the high altitude stuff, but Pasang and Mundru will have to get some high altitude things beyond Maruthang, and an inch or two of snow makes that very difficult indeed. One of Mundru's primulas there is P. uniflora, which is only 2-2½" high when in flower. He has marked all these plants, but even so, it will not be easy. Ludlow will be having a very chilly time now. We are only at 13500' here, air is quite cold enough. His camps will often be higher than that. It will be a great blow to him not to be able to visit Tibet once more, but from what he said in his last letter, he has definitely given up all hope, and even ordered his passage home on the same ship as we go on. If we could both have managed one more trip to the Gorge country, it would have finished things off very nicely. I wonder if any of the other applicants for permission to visit Tibet next year will go. It seems most unlikely.

29th September Haat. Yesterday while we were out, and while it was merely raining, a couple of coveys of 'Lerwa' called a great deal, and the local drogpa who was with us said that was a bad sign. When they called like that there would be much rain and snow. Well, he and they were quite right. It has barely stopped raining for our 3 days up here, and yesterday and today have been as bad as we've had all year. Last