Part 25 - Shoka to Tse journey with halt and meetings with the Dzongpon

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SUMMARY:
Travel from Shoka to Tse via Milung in fine but windy weather with striking views of Gyala Peri and observations of waterfowl along the Tsangpo. A halt from the 13th to 17th included courteous dealings with the Dzongpon’s acting representative, with visits exchanged by Ludlow and Elliot and mention of the real Dzongpon, Shasur Taiji.

CONTENT:
picturesque, so the people have become much more obliging. They are away from the bad influence of civilization: they are honest, truthful and cheerful, there is little demand for money. What they want more is medicine. One only has to express a desire to have something and it is brought - if available. A number of 'half-Lobas' are taking their merchandise up the valley.

11th Dec. Shoka. Left at 7.30, in at 2.30. Even bullocks, which left at 5.30, were in by 3.0 pm. Clouded over in the morning. It cleared up by 9.0 and was really a most beautiful day. Wind got up very strong by 2.0 pm till evening. As we reached Milung, Gyala Peri came into view - a very fine sight. It was here in 1938 I caught a glimpse of it - the only one I had. Villages very picturesque, with one or two or more large houses loosely grouped. People most obliging and pleasant.

12th Dec. Tse. Left at 7.20: in at 3.30 pm. Mules kept ahead of us, but bullocks could not reach Tse. Again a beautiful day. Cleared up completely by 8.0 and Gyala Peri looked lovely all day long. A strong wind got up at 2.30. It is curious that this wind blew down the Tsangpo. It obviously habitually does so here, as the trees and dunes show, whereas everywhere else so far the usual wind is strong upstream. Saw two flocks of duck: shot one goose with .410 and saw a great many black-necked crane.

13th Dec. - 17th Dec. Halt. We knew we would have to wait here, and although the wait is longer than expected, it is worth it. The Dzongpon has been exceptionally kind to us. The real Dzongpon is Shasur Taiji, but he is not here. In his place is a very pleasant, quiet monk relative. Ludlow and I called on him on 13th and Elliot on 14th, while he came to call on us on 15th. We gave presents of 1 pr binoculars, saffron, D's photo, and