Part 73 - Route blocked near Lanjong; plan shifts to Tsari Sama; to Trashiyang

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SUMMARY:
A swollen river and damaged bridge near Lanjong thwart progress, with suspected interference by the ex-gyinpon. The party marches to Trashiyang in wet conditions and arranges with reluctant coolies to attempt a circuit via Tsari Sama. Tsari Sama is noted as a pilgrimage site founded by the lama Giaogama; nothing new was found except an interesting rhododendron.

CONTENT:
Lanjong people. We had no chance of getting across. The river is huge now, and I don't see even how the bridge can be repaired till the Autumn, and that seems there will be trouble with the Moro and Pachakshiri people. One of the coolies with me knows something about this, I am sure, and thinks it was put up by the ex-gyinpon of Lanjong, who has done us down badly in several ways. This was an awful blow to me, as we were counting on getting a lot up there. Now I have come back three miles and tomorrow will let it out that we are going to Tsari Sama. But as they can stop us going to the Lo La by destroying a bridge, so they can, I fear, stop us going round Tsari by some other means. But we will see what happens. This throws all my plans out, and I am not yet sure what to do now.

13th June To Trashiyang 4 1/2 miles. B.P. 189.3° Temp. 52° Time 4.0pm. Ht. approx. 12809'. Very wet at night and all today. We left camp and came up to the lower bridge again. There I waited for the coolies, and made them come on here. They certainly did not want to come, and obviously had left Lanjong with no intention of coming up here. On arrival we had to have a long talk, and as far as I can make out, they now agree to take me round Tsari Sama, but in the meantime four men have gone back to get rations for six days. That will allow one day to the first rest house, a day's halt, one day to the next, then return here and from here to Lanjong. If they do this, I am content, though I hate leaving the Lo La having arranged everything beforehand. Tsari Sama only means the "New Tsari". It is called either "Sama" or "Sarpa". It was started as a place of pilgrimage by a lama called Giaogama from the Tsübo Gompa in Lhasa. The circle from here can be done in a day, but I gather that is a pretty tall order. This place may prove good, from what I saw today, but I found nothing new except an interesting Rhododendron