Part 11 - River journey from Gunchardz to Tsetang, 9–14 November

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SUMMARY:
The diarist records a multi-day river journey from Chitishio via Nyanga to Tsetang, noting departure/arrival times, difficult and deceptive channels, and comparisons with fuller water than in 1938. They observe large flocks of geese, cranes, ducks and Brahminy, receive help from the chanzo of Wobok Estate, and later call on a friendly Dzongpen at Tsetang; winds are described as upstream early and stronger downstream later in the day.

CONTENT:
9th November, Chitishio. Left Gunchardz at 9:30, got in at 3:30. Showing that Chitishio camp is 1 hour short of Dorje Tra, this trip took us 2 hours less than in 1938. I consider there is a good deal more water now than in '38 in March. Camp fixed behind a long artificial breakwater. At Pinza, m 3 1/2, where there is a ferry, we passed large flocks of geese. The Dzongpen's 'traps' were not very helpful people. They were all on the make. But Sunhang's wife's chanzo of Wobok Estate was good and did what he could. Ponies took from 8:30 to 3:00 pm.

10th Nov. Nyanga. Left at 8:00; arrived at 5:00 pm. Ponies 8:00 till 12:30 only. We got into many shallow channels which gave great difficulty. Although the river is in my opinion considerably fuller than in 1938, it is broader, shallower and more spread about, making existing channels in many cases difficult, and very difficult to determine which should be followed. Again large flocks of geese, crane, duck and Brahminy.

11th November. Camp about 1 m below DROSHI, opposite SAMYE. Left at 8:45; in at 4:30 pm. Channels again deceptive and difficult. We were aground several times again. Ponies went on to Chanzoling, about 3 m further by road, where there are 3 houses, but had to return as we could not reach there; in any case no water course now goes near the village.

12 Nov. Tsetang. Left at 7:30, good current, and in at 3:00 pm. Channels easy and current faster.

13th Nov. Halt. Called on Dzongpen who was friendly. There are geese here by the thousand; all day long geese, Brahminy, duck and crane fly above Tsetang.

14 Nov. Halt. A good deal colder, with a strong wind. As always the wind is upstream for a short time in the morning—till about 9:30. Then much stronger downstream till 4:30 pm. This seems constant at this time of the year, but is not so in spring.