Part 49 - Lalung camp and Nyug La diary entries, 3–5 May

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SUMMARY:
Diary notes describe severe midges and rain while collecting Primula cortusoides and rhododendrons off the Nyug La ridge, followed by a weather-hampered attempt along the ridge. The party returns to Lalung where Tsongpen shoots a tragopan near camp and the diarist has a good day of bird shooting as weather improves; plant notes include R. edgeworthii, Pinus wallichiana, Cypripedium hookerae, and Monotropa uniflora.

CONTENT:
P. laciniata 3649
Here, off the ridge, Primula cortusoides No. 3649, is in masses and very pretty. Otherwise the only thing we got was a very fine Rhododendron 3708 (Rh. rude 3707), which is the same as that found in bud on the Nyug La (= 3670). Otherwise there was nothing, and the only bird I wanted to shoot was an Ixulus - beside the tragopan. The midges at these two camps have been too awful for words. They simply swarm in dense clouds everywhere, and it is impossible to stand still for a minute. I have a smoke fire in my tent, which is infinitely preferable to the midges. Gulla and Tsongpen are with me - Gulla as cook, he is perfectly good. Tsongpen and I will try our luck as far as we can go tomorrow. I'm afraid a new primula on my birthday is hardly likely. (Sherriff's birthday)

3rd May. Same camp. Rained all night, and has rained hard all day today without a stop. A perfectly filthy day. Tsongpen and I, with two men, cut our way up as far as we could go along the ridge. There cliffs blocked our way, and we could not go either side. So, soaked through and freezing cold, we returned to camp. I am very glad that the coolies agree, or say they do, to go back in one day. It seemed easily possible, none of us have any desire for any more of this ridge. At the highest point reached, we found some rhododendrons in flower, but only those seen before. There was no sign of any primulas, or of anything else for that matter. Heavy rain and dense forest is too much to compete with, either for birds or flowers. So I am just sitting in camp, hoping for the day to pass quickly, which of course it won't do. This camp is just mud now, and everything we have is wet and filthy. I think Gulla will be happiest when he gets back tomorrow. When used to driving cars, this is a change in the wrong direction.

4th May. Camp Lalung. 5 miles. Rained in morning, some sun at Lalung at midday, rained in evening. It only took the coolies 5 1/2 hours to return here, instead of the 12 going. Just as we were ready to leave camp, we heard tragopan calling, and one came close to camp (Tragopan in perfect plumage). Tsongpen went after it and got it in a rhododendron. I saw two more, but could not get a shot with the rifle. All were within 50 yards of camp. I got a few other birds too on the way down. Ludlow had had a bad day of rain yesterday too, and was pretty fed up with getting few birds. We were all glad to get back to a decent dry level camp again.

5th May. Halt Lalung. Fine and sunny the whole day. Looks as if we were in for a spell of fine weather - a rash thing to prophesy here. I went out on a ridge 500 ft above camp and had some good shooting. Every morning about 7.30, spine-tailed swifts arrive, and then spend the day feeding in this valley, going home wherever that is, in the evening. They are said to fly at 200 mph, and they are a...

R. edgeworthii 3709, 3720 Pinus wallichiana 3711
Cypripedium hookerae 3708, Monotropa uniflora 3710