Part 7 - Kala to Nangartse via Gyantse, 25 Oct–4 Nov

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SUMMARY:
Entries record weather, lakes and birdlife near Kala, transport difficulties along the Kalimpong–Gyantse route, and stages from Samoda and Kangmar to Gyantse and on to Gobshi, Ralung, and Nangartse. The party met Hugh Richardson and Pailthorpe at Gyantse, and noted snow, winds, and logistics issues with local headmen and supplies.

CONTENT:
25 October Kala. There was a curious low fog all over the plain from the main Range to the hills to the N. of us, only 50 ft up. This did not dissolve till about 1130. Then the views were wonderful again. The Rham Tso is very high & the Kala lake higher than any of us have ever seen it. Ludlow shot two cranes & 2 gadwall & 1 garganey teal. Many birds about, but all very wild. Saw three white fronted geese.

26th October. Samoda. Cloudy & cold with bright patches. Weather all along is most unlike October weather. We did well to get through transport from Kalimpong to Gyantse. Chowkidars report difficulties all along the line. The headmen of Chumbi - upper & lower - started the objection to our through transport, but Pangdatshang stopped trouble. Then Phari. Then Tuna. At Dochen & Kala the headmen will not give any dung or other supplies & it is much the same here. They give, but the chowkidar complains he always has trouble. In my opinion the trouble is likely due to two causes - the rate of exchange is against the locals, & there is only a head clerk at both Gyantse & Yatung.

27th October KANGMAR. Fine but very cloudy. Saw no game at all on the river or partridge on the hill side.

28th October. Sunkang. Fine but more cloudy than yesterday. No game. Berberis on the hillside very fine colour indeed, but no seed.

29 October. Gyantse. Cold when we arrived, & gradually got colder. Snow at night. Met & lunched & tea'd with Hugh Richardson & Pailthorpe.

30. 31. 1st. Halt. Snowed hard on 30th. 31st v. fine indeed.

2nd. Nov. Gobshi. Fine, but v. cold in the evening. Camped at Gobshi.

3rd Nov. Ralung. Fine, but strong wind up valley after 9.30.

4th Nov. Nangartse. Fine & warm. Wind strong down valley to Nangartse. Left at 0615. In at 1615 & kit about 1 hour later.