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SUMMARY:
While halted at Tsetang, the party sent Pimbo back to Gonkar to recover 11 boxes of kit, which he found near Chora. They met the Ladakhi trader Ata Ulla, who spoke about Bailey, showed bird eggs from near Lhagyari, and helped procure a sheep. On 26 March they marched to Rong (Rongchaka) Dzong with poor bullock transport, and the writer suffered a minor fall from a pony.

CONTENT:
Atta Ulla Khan, a Ladakhi merchant trading in Tsetang

Kongka reluctantly to send Pimbo back to Gonkar to find out what has happened. That may mean a four or more days stay in this filthy place. This has made us vow not to stay in any more houses now. They really are too dirty for words. On arrival here we saw Ata Ulla, an old Ladakhi trader who has been here for 30 years or more. He lives here with a few other Mohammedans—all of whom dress as Tibetans, and all of whom are despised by our own servants. However I am sending Culla and Daud to see them today. Tsetang is quite a picturesque place from a distance, with two red and brown gompas and all the rest of the houses whitewashed. The village lies under a hillside, faces north. There are more trees than we have seen elsewhere—all willows and poplars, the poplars being in many cases very old and fine trees. The river narrows a great deal here. We are told kowas can go down another day's march, but are not advised to use them further.

24th March. Halt Tsetang. We had to halt here to allow the 11 boxes of kit left behind to be found.

25th March. Halt Tsetang. Pimbo went back yesterday 24th to look for it, and luckily found it before reaching Chora. He returned at 6:00 pm with the kit. These two days have been beastly. The wind and dust are perfectly awful and everything gets full of sandy dust. We have seen a good deal of Ata Ulla who begs us to come and talk each day. It is really a question of listening to him talk about Bailey. He showed us two eggs, properly blown, of what he said were crossoptilon from near Lhagyari, 5 others of which he gave to Bailey. And he told us all about Bailey giving him a gun for which he had a few cartridges. With great difficulty we have got a sheep for Rs 2/12. They don't like killing them this month they say, but seem to do it themselves all the same. Ata Ulla has been a great help in this way.

26th March. Rong (Rongchaka) Dzong. 14 miles. A lovely day, but spoilt by the awful transport. With some difficulty we got the transport to turn up early and were off by 7:45. But it was nearly all bullocks, and our boxes suffered very badly. Although a good path and only 14 miles, the last dozen loads only got in at 7:45 pm—12 hours for 14 miles. I only rode a short way, but when I did mount, the pony went off splitarse, fell on its head and threw me over its neck. I was lucky in being on a good bit of path and only skinned my finger badly, and dislocated the...

SUMMARY:
The diary records marches from Lhapso Dzong to Lenda and then to Rabdang, with notes on weather, route conditions, and abundant vegetation including birch, pines, willows, walnuts, and bamboo, as well as sightings of Crossoptilon and snow cock. Transport was problematic, with shortages of coolies and poor paths, and Pintso had to remain behind.

CONTENT:
G. nubigena, G. waltoni (lower down) and G. depressa. A few seeds of the first two were taken. Within a thousand feet of the pass, which is 16470', a bigger rhododendron vellereum bush begins (3587). Later on it becomes very common indeed and almost covers the hillside on the North and West slopes. Other signs of increased rainfall are the Crossoptilon, which are common in the shrubs. We also saw several other ones, snow cock at about 16000'. Lower down again there is quite an extensive birch forest of small trees up to 25 feet or so (local name kewah or tyewah).

30th March. To LHAPSO DZONG. 11500' 7 miles. Fine day, some clouds. Path easy down the valley, mostly on the Left bank, through shrubs. Lhapso Dzong is an old dzong in poor repair, standing on the Right bank where the valley turns to the North. A few Crossoptilon seen. Although so low there is still a lot of vegetation on the hills.

31st March. To LENDA. 11000' 13 1/2 miles. Clouded over most of the day; some snow on the hilltops and a few spots of rain in the valley. Transport mostly coolies; left at 6.45 - in at 2 to 2.30 pm. The path is good with the exception of a mile or two between miles 10 and 12, where the path climbs pretty steeply up the Right bank and at one place is so narrow that ponies have to be offloaded. Peach blossom is fully out here and also at Dzam, in 4 1/2 where the main Tsangpo is met. Willows also are green. There are two here, one a weeping willow (3593) and the other the ordinary kind 3594. We were surprised to see pines on the way today. The first was very near Lhapso, but that was isolated, and the hills above were covered with juniper. But the hills above here have thick pine forest on them. Walnuts also are common in the cultivated areas. We expected a very hot march, but it is actually quite cold, due to the clouds. A little way below Dzam, there are small clumps of bamboo in each village. It seems an odd place and climate to find bamboo, but perhaps they are introduced.

1st April. To RABDANG alt 10800' 11 miles. Clouded all day, with strong up valley wind in the afternoon. There is a most rotten arrangement for transport at Lenda. The order went to Gyatsa Dzong, across the river and a mile down stream. The Dzong ordered transport and then there were 15 too few coolies turned up. Poor Pintso again had to remain behind. We left at 7.15 and were in at 2.45 pm. The path is bad, up and down the Right bank the whole way and in many places unfit for pony transport. The coolies are awful.

SUMMARY:
The diary records a hard ascent over the Kongbo Nga La to Nye with notes on rhododendrons, larch, birch, juniper, and sightings including crossoptilon, large black woodpeckers, a Camberwell Beauty, and a blood pheasant, alongside seed collecting and march times. The following day describes an easier, mostly level route to Kyimdong Dzong via Shu and the Kyimdong Chu, noting Berberis near Kyimdong and a meeting with the local dzongpen, while sending two men to check whether the Lang La is open.

CONTENT:
5th April. NYE. 11 miles. Fine morning, clouded afternoon: some snow on the hill tops. A hard day but quite interesting. Path leads up the Lapu Chu left bank for 2 miles, then up the right bank to mile 3 1/2. So far the ascent is easy but path not very good. Thence the ascent is very direct and steep to the Kongbo Nga La, 14470', mile 6. Descent is equally steep. On either side of the pass, about 1 1/2 miles from it is a house. A small nala is reached, and followed for a short way, then the path climbs up the spur on the right bank and drops down to Nye, where there is a good deal of cultivation, and several houses. On the west side of the pass are many rhododendrons, some larches and large areas of birch beside scrub of all kinds. In this I flushed a dozen crossoptilon and saw 5 or 6 very large black woodpeckers of a kind not in the F.B.I. They are about the size of a chough, absolutely black, with the exception of the male having a bright chestnut band across his forehead. I could not shoot any. Besides getting some seeds, I got two butterflies, which for a few moments were fairly common. One was a Camberwell Beauty. On the east side I flushed two "kuling", and later on shot a blood pheasant, most beautifully coloured, and in excellent plumage. Two primulas were in bloom, pink. Pine trees are common and away to the south we could see firs as well. On the east there are many more junipers than on the west. A trying march: left at 6:40, in at 3:30 and some of the kit not in till 6:00 pm or later.

6th April. KYIMDONG DZONG. 14 miles. c 11000'. Fine morning, clouded afternoon, some rain and snow on the hills. An uninteresting march. The path is easy on the whole level. First through cultivation for a mile, then at mile 2 pass a small village. From here on there are no villages till Shu is reached at mile 12. There is a lot of sand and gravel which continues till the Tsangpo is left at mile 9 1/2 where the path climbs steeply up a cliff on the right bank. From here it descends gradually to Shu village, where a side valley is crossed. The Kyimdong Chu is followed first on the left bank then on the right, up to Kyimdong Dzong, situated where the valley from the Lang La meets that from the Pa and Bimbi Las. Nothing of any interest seen today, except Berberis which is just out close to Kyimdong. The dzongpen, a lama, is a young man and seems nice. He does not know whether the Lang La is open or not, but we are sending two men

SUMMARY:
The party crossed the snow-bound Lo La at night, then traversed the Nyug La and Kargong La to reach Shalong by April 27, describing the Shalong plain and listing notable birds collected. On returning to Molo they secured Sclater's Monal on the south face of Lo La and, during May 17–24, recorded additional species, with marginal notes on pheasants and Picea spinulosa.

CONTENT:
17a. (from 16a).
'33 April 14 - May 24

At Molo we took immediate steps to cross the Lo La, a feat which the local people assured us was impossible so early in the year. But we were of a different opinion. Experience has taught us that most knife-edge passes over the main range can be crossed with ease at night when the snow is frozen. The Lo La proved no exception. Though snow still lay breast high for several miles on the northern slopes of the pass, we had scampered over this by dawn, and by sunrise were well down the southern slopes within the conifer zone. (April 24.)

Sclater's Monal was seen in rhododendron and fir forest just below the snow line, and Temminck's Tragopan in deciduous and Tsuga forest at a somewhat lower level.

We crossed the Nyug La (11,000) and the Kargong La (13,800) and pressed onwards through the densest rain forest along a most atrocious track to Shalong (6,300) which we reached on April 27.

Shalong is situated in the middle of an extensive plain about 8 miles long by a mile wide. At its northern end three streams unite to form the Siyom River, which flows quietly down the centre of the valley. On either side of the river are large areas covered with bracken and pasture land which have been cleared of forest. Excellent cattle graze on these open downs, which are hemmed in on all sides by luxuriant, almost impenetrable, rain forest.

We spent 10 days at Shalong (See p. 22-28) — a hopelessly inadequate period in which to study its avifauna. The most interesting birds procured were:

No. 78 Grammatoptila striata austeni
No. 70 Suthora fulvifrons chayulensis
No. 83 Leioptila pulchella nigroaurita
No. 84 Sibia (Actinodura?) nipalensis daflaensis
No. 197 Tribura luteoventris
No. 372 Hirundapus caudacutus nudipes
No. 379 Tragopan temminckii

[Marginal note: Large numbers of Crossoptilon or Blood Pheasants in the wood. Molo. R. vellereum 3623, R. hirtipes 3624]

On our return to Molo we halted for a day on the south face of the Lo La, where, at last, we succeeded in obtaining a good series of No. 376-377 Lophophorus sclateri (Sclater's Monal).

[Marginal note: Picea spinulosa 3627 very common]

During stay at Molo — May 17-24 came across:
No. 356-8 Spinus thibetanus Himalayan Siskin — 1st time L. D. had seen it.
No. 348-9 Loxia curvirostra himalayensis Himalayan Crossbill — also obtained in 1936.

Other interesting birds at Molo were:
No. 71. Sitta europaea tibetosinensis
No. 368. Picus canus kogo
No. 74. Ianthocincla maxima
No. 81. Fulvetta striaticollis striaticollis
No. 371. Psittacula derbyana Lord Derby's Paroquet.
No. 372. Paroquet

To 28a

SUMMARY:
At Langong, the diarist records collecting several Primula and other alpine plants, observing a new warbler (P. tibetanus), and noting marmots and lingering snow. A clutch of Crossoptilon eggs and a blood pheasant egg are obtained; the gyimpon arrives and promises coolies, and plans are made to explore valleys between Pa La and Lo La before visiting the Pachakshiri Loba.

CONTENT:
Langong

depressed, but then we saw P. bariensis, and knew that there would be other things as well. For a change, the second time only, I did not take a gun, and of course saw the new warbler P. tibetanus. There were two of them, in juniper scrub, just as on the Bimbi La. Of interesting things, we saw Mec. simplicifolia - and I particularly examined the filaments, which were white. Then Tsonypon brought in a primula, which I think must be P. chamaethauma 3893 (P. chionantha 3893). Then P. macrophylla 3894, 3895 (P. macrophylla var. macrocarpa 3895) was seen. Then over a ridge we found in almost full flower that delightfully pretty - and fragrant - P. rotundifolia. On the whole a good day. There are many marmots running about, now the snow is off the ground. The actual pass is probably still covered with snow, as there were huge drifts a good deal lower than the highest we went, on the North faces. I heard on return that one man had already found a nest of Crossoptilon, but he has not brought the eggs yet.

29th May. Halt. Langong. Fine most of the day, but clouded and showery. Started in the morning about at 11.00 a.m. Saw nothing much. In fact there is remarkably little in the valley. Collected Primula yargongensis 3914. Our offer for eggs is doing well. Today got a clutch of seven eggs of Crossoptilon, nest on the ground in a bush. Later on a man came in with one blood pheasant's egg, and will see the nest tomorrow. The eggs were very difficult to blow, having chicks inside. (P. dryadifolia 3917, Rhododendron v. microstoma 3918, Ranunculus 3919, 3923, Primula 3925, Gal. nambanensis 3920, Corydalis 3921, 3922, Lonicera litangensis 3926).

30th May. Halt. Langong. Mostly fine in Langong, but rain mist on the hills all day. I went up the valley immediately North of Langong village, running parallel to the Tscha valley. There is nothing in any of these valleys till one gets to 13,500 feet or so. Then primulas appear. This is a fine valley, with a good sized lake at about 13,500 feet above which there is a fine waterfall. But flowers are few and far between, and I think we are really too early yet. The gyimpon has arrived, seems very helpful and friendly. He wants to go off for 8 days, but has promised coolies all I want in the meantime. My plans are to stay here two more days, and then go West, up a valley which lies between the Pa La and Lo La routes. Stay there four days and return here for two before going off to the Pachakshiri Loba on the 9th, for a week. That will take up all the time I can spare in this area. Everything here seems to be late. Snow lies pretty thick on the hills yet, and nearly all passes are shut. Tsari Sama - known generally as Tsari Sarpa, "the new Tsari" is not

SUMMARY:
Notes on bird observations near camp, including pigeons and reports of blood pheasant, with mention of sending a gun back to Pana. Halted at Gonyi re on 22 July due to weather; on 23 July marched to Kulu Lungma with fine conditions later, recording distance, temperature, and altitude, though the diarist felt unwell.

CONTENT:
Birds: here, I sent my gun back to Pana. The very same afternoon I saw pigeons close to camp. These are the first I remember seeing this way. Kulang are common on Gonyi re. Blood pheasant said to be here, but must be far from quiet. Crossoptilon do not go up far in these valleys. There are none even here only 3-4 miles up, though in the Mayu Chu we found some broken eggs about 12 miles up.

22nd July. Halt. Gonyi re. Very heavy shower at night, with much fresh snow where we were collecting yesterday. A lovely morning, clouding over. Some heavy showers & thunder in the afternoon. Stayed in camp all day. What a pity it is to be shut up in a valley like this on our one really fine day. I wish we could have a day like this on the Kucha La - our last pass of the main range. So far I have seen absolutely nothing from any pass we have been on.

Kulu Phu Chu
23rd July. Kulu Lungma. 6 1/2 miles. B.P. 192.0° Temp. 65° Time 4.30 pm. Ht app. 11593'. Pretty heavy rain at night, clouded over this morning till 8.0 am. Rest of day magnificent, with one or two light showers. My inside is still very much wrong, otherwise I think I should have been on the hillside all day long. This really

SUMMARY:
Notes describe a valley with contrasting north and south faces, a bout of fever for Gulia, and halts on 9th and 10th May to explore and collect plants. Finds include rhododendrons, abundant P. bellidifolia (not yet out), and P. roylei and macrophylla in bloom near a terminal moraine; each member shot one crossoptilon.

CONTENT:
66

seeing. We chased crossoptilon, but with no luck. Gulia has fever on head: it may only be the snow thrush, I hope so. The valley here has a very marked N & S face. The South face appears quite bare, though there are small plants growing on it. The North face is densely covered with fine fir trees, up to about 13000 or 13500, then even more densely covered with rhododendron. Here there are some larches too.

9th May. Halt. We spread out in all directions to see what we could find. I had hoped for more, but I suppose we are still a bit early. One very nice rhododendron was found in the fir forest (1564) - the dwarf 2 ft bush 1565, which looks much like a pink lapponicum of kinds. Many of these have pure white flowers, the majority being a pale pink. Ludlow found a little more P. bellidifolia, P. 1562 is everywhere. We each shot one crossoptilon.

10th May. Halt. Went up the nala immediately north of camp to about 15000 ft. There is not much to be seen yet, though it is a good place. P. bellidifolia is everywhere, but not yet out. Both P. Roylei & macrophylla 1561 were in bloom at the terminal moraine at the head of the valley. A little

SUMMARY:
The diary records movements from the east side of Kongbo-nga La via Mye to Shu, with delayed coolies and negotiations for transport. It notes forest and plant observations near the pass, attempts to contact Gyantse and Ford by wireless, strong winds, and halts on 1–2 Dec due to uncertain transport.

CONTENT:
Nang.

28 Nov. Camp on E side of Kongbo-nga La. Coolies had not come in by 9.0, so we set off at 10.0 with about 30-40 loads only, leaving Samdup behind. A good day but spoilt by transport trouble. Reached the pass by 2.30 & in at camp - not at Nye - at 5.0pm. Coolies came in soon after except about 15 who only turned up next day. It was good to be in forest again, pine, larch & birch on the west side, & juniper, larch & birch on the E, with pine on N faces. Rhod. vellereum common, with two small Rhodos. On the E side saw some P. jaffreyana & a lot of Androsace of 3 species.

29 Nov. Mye. A short march in today where we should have reached yesterday. Samdup also turned up by 11.0 & our kit has again caught us up. I saw two partridge on the way up the Pass. Ludlow then saw one 'Kuling' & another, while Ludlow missed a Crossoptilon on this side. This is the first village with pent wooden roofs. All to the W of this are flat roofed. The hilltops often have early morning mist on them now - a sign of a damper climate. I was surprised to see no Mec. simplicifolia on the pass - only M. horridula.

30 Nov. Shu. An easy march. We were in by 1.0 (start 8.0) & coolies were in shortly after. A few were late. I tried to contact Gyantse at 3.30 pm (BT) by W/T, but got no answer. Later tried Ford (TASA) but again got no answer. Local Dzongpon's man tried to refuse to give us anything but day to day transport. We demanded 'Dzongyel', & we think we have succeeded, at the price of 2 days halt & a than of cloth & ten cigarettes! Supplies difficult, & we have hardly managed to get anything. Very strong wind in evening.

1st Dec. Halt. Fine, but clouded by midday. Wind by 2.30.

2nd Dec. Halt. Fine & clear & windy. We doubt if our transport will come as promised, by this evening. This is a bad place to get away from - in 1938 we were held up five days at Kyimdong Dzong.

SUMMARY:
The diarist notes failed banana trees in Dongkar, widespread illness, and persistent bad weather during a series of halts while collecting birds. They visit Denchan Gompa, hunt game birds with local shikaris, and criticize Elliot’s contribution. Bill visits Yigong Tso and learns from the Be Gyimpon of a summer route to Tongkyuk over the TRESUR LA; Ludlow departs for Suowa with companions.

CONTENT:
to collect bush birds. Yesterday I was very surprised indeed to see banana trees growing beside a house above camp, in Dongkar. There were about ten, but the owner said they gave no fruit here. Tseringpon, when he saw them, immediately said they were dead, because the leaves had all withered - a state he had not seen at home. Temperatures up there must drop to 10°F as a minimum. We have had 14°F here. Goitre is very prevalent here, syphilis very bad indeed - "very much worse than Bhutan" Elliot says. The whole place seems to be in decay generally.

20th Jan Halt. Again saw more banana trees, locally called 'tali loma'. Went to Denchan Gompa then into big side valley. Saw some crossbills & heard Crossoptilon.

21st Jan - 24th Jan. Halt. Weather very unpleasant indeed & every day the same. The tops of the hills are covered in clouds all day & night, & a very light snow falls, down to about 9000' or sometimes to 8000', all day long. We get glimpses of sun but never much. We have all tried to get game birds, & between us have seen or got monal, tragopan, blood pheasant & wood partridge. Tseringpon & Laku are the chief shikaris & most bloodthirsty. Elliot is a great disappointment. He won't turn his hand to anything; won't even carry a gun & have a crack at anything. His medical work is poor. He takes no interest in the illnesses of the locals, & just dishes out 2 pills to everyone. Our own people have little use for him. I don't know how he has the face to do as little as he does, after agreeing to come on this trip & turn his hand to anything.

25-26 Jan. Halt. On 25th it started to clear up & on 26 was beautiful, with hardly a cloud in the sky all day. This has been a very pleasant change, as except for the 19th we have had no bright sun, & snow every day all around us. Bill went up to the Yigong Tso to take photos, & had some very fine views. He saw the Be Gyimpon who confirmed that there is a summer road up from the valley behind Be, to Tongkyuk, over the TRESUR LA. The route is not fit for ponies. The name of the village 1 m W of Be is GYAGON.

27-28 Jan. Halt. Good weather finished very suddenly on 28th, the clouds coming up very fast after a clear morning. Ludlow went off to Suowa with Ramzana, Sandup & Tseringpon.

SUMMARY:
Entries for early February describe halts near Laka, arrival of loads, and cordial interactions with locals who report oppression by soldiers and taxes to Kanam. The author notes bird observations and hunting attempts, mentions an iron mine near Chara, sends Lahu to search for game, asks the Tonse headman for Crossoptilon, and records geographic details around Makutang, Sibhe La, and Temo Channa.

CONTENT:
...their houses and beat them up. But others are unpopular: taxes also have to be paid to Kanam; why that should be so I don't know when Kanam is not here.

1st Feb. Halt. Clear at first and very cold. Only 15 loads came yesterday. The rest arrived about 3:00 pm today. Lahu and Balbahadur were left behind for the day. Locals here seem to be glad to see us. They are outspoken about 'zulm' here, chiefly by soldiers. Laka headman's son is a nice lad. He says there are lots of 'Chaugai', also 'kap', monal and blood pheasant. I am sending Lahu up there in a day or two to look.

2nd Feb. Halt. Cloudy and pretty cold, but improving.

3rd Feb. Halt. Clear and beautiful day. We went up the spur East of Laka and had a fine view of the lake and silted up bed, which a local says is covered with water in summer. Locals are all nice. They come and talk and offer to do anything wanted without thought of money. All headmen from round about have come in, with presents. There is an iron mine up behind Chara in the hills, said to be better than the Be one. It can be reached by a path and one can get there and back in a day. Crossoptilon are said only to be near Tonse. I have asked the Tonse headman to get me one or two and he says he will.

4th Feb. Halt. Clear all day. Went up to Makutang. Saw a number of geese, missed three sitters. Also for the first time saw some waders, got 2 out of 3. There were a number of mallard too up near Makutang with the geese. I saw marks of one crane, which the locals say occasionally come here. There is a small 'tru' near Tonse, but in summer this does not function, is replaced by a 'dring', the rope of which is made of bamboo. This bamboo is said to come from 1 day's march upstream. This shows that there is more rain up there. Lahu was in the hills above Laka today. He found 3 small clumps of small bamboo there too, but says there is very little. The nala from the Sibhe La does not come down to Temo Channa, but comes in about a mile or 1 1/2 miles to the East of the Channa fan. It is a very steep sided gorge.

5th Feb. Halt. Clear till evening. Clouds come up most evenings now, but they aren't very...