SUMMARY:
Ledger of expenses for presents, stores, insurance, tickets, transport, tips, and wages, including movements and freight from Srinagar to Lahore to Rangiya and journeys through Diwangiri, Pintso-gong, and Trashigang. Entries note payments to a postmaster, a pradhan, and a Maharaja's sepoy, as well as porters and syces, and costs over Kurtip and Danong passes.

CONTENT:
xxx = 50 car. With ink cross = out of Rs 2000 cash.
25 sugar. " pencil " = settled between ourselves.
17 transport. no cross = paid by me in notes.

Expenses.

Presents: 2 enamel boxes. ✓ 100 Oil, sigris etc. x 20
3 agate ✓ 100 A&N. Stores: "Lilo", cartridges, etc. x 40
3 Papier mache bowls. ✓ 24 Postmaster, Kumari Khata. x 150.
4 prs. gloves. 8/6. ✓ 18 Tips etc. x 25
2 Alarm watches. ✓ 90 Diwan Menoka to Diwangiri. x 17.
1 roll puttoo ✓ 12 Diwangiri to Satsalor. x 7.
Saffron. ✓ 25. Pay Putso dancing. x 100.
1 automatic pistol. Satsalor to Chunkar. + tips. x 8.
9 puttoo hats. ✓ 10 Chunkar to Khomanaggri + tips 4. x 8.
Three doz. whisky 1 rum. 140 Khomanaggri to Balfai 5 tips 4 x 9
4" Kh. serge. x 58. Balfai to Pintso-gong Rs 5 x 5
Stores from Kellner. Adv. sent. x 500. xxx Pradhan for sugar, RR's & coolies. x 100
Insurance of adv. goods. approx. x 45 Tanchas 500 @ 10 & 1 Rs. x 50.
7 yakdans Srinagar to Lahore x 28 Pay syces D'giri to Pintso-gong 12. B'shish 10 x 22
11 " Lahore to Rangiya x 120 Pintso-gong to Trashigang. Rs 5. + tips 4. x 9
3 prs shoes at Rs 4-8 ✓ 14 Tigong to Phungmi via Rungsyung tips x 17
Lorry & taxi to Lahore 60+30 x 90 Sheep 4 To Sakden 4 Laman 5. x 13
Excess baggage Lahore - Calcutta. x 100 Rupees to tanchas 2000. @ 10. x 200.
Tickets to Calcutta. 42+209 x 251 Maharaja's sepoy x 10
Ice etc. x 15 " " x 15.
Tickets to Rangiya. x 114 To Trashigang for postmen. 1 mth (Sept) x 40.
Luggage. " " x 45 Kurtip Pass. x 20
Additional stores. Kellner. x 133. Danong Pass. 50
2032 935

• SUMMARY:
  The diarist records a warm farewell from friends in Bumthang, including H.H. and the ladies (notably Ashe Paldon), with gifts and a light‑hearted evening dressing in various outfits. Route notes describe an easy ascent along the left bank to THANG NARU, a river difficult to ford in summer, muddy sections, a 150-foot cliff with houses and a monastery, and scattered houses along the Tang Chu valley.

CONTENT:
43

Tobgye & Ludlow

• m. 13. The river is of considerable size in summer & would only
  at farewell at

• be fordable in certain places with difficulty. Thence easy
  Bumthang: on

• ascent along left bank to THANG NARU at m 15. 1/2 mile
  first pass beyond

• above bridge there is a 150' cliff on R. bank of river below which
  Bumthang. F.L.,

• are some houses & a monastery. Route here is very muddy in
  Tobgye, Dorji.

• rainy weather. There are scattered houses all up the Tang Chu

• valley. Fuel water abundant.

We were both genuinely sorry to leave Bumthang, not because we were leaving the place, but because we were leaving good friends. H.H. is still a little nervous & awkward, & difficult to talk to, but he was kindness itself to us. He has taken a great deal of trouble in seeing about our arrangements East of Bumthang. Although he has not definitely asked us to return, he has repeatedly said that if Bailey should come again, we must come with him. The ladies were very kind, especially Ashe Paldon, who heaped gifts on us, & made us promise to write to her if we had any kind of trouble at all. On our last night in Bumthang Mrs W. dressed up as a Bhutanese lady, & induced the Maharani to get into her clothes. She looked very well, & I think rather fancied herself. I also dressed in Tobgye's clothes, while Ludlow put on one of the Sikkim chaprassis' clothes. I have seldom seen such a funny sight as he looked. We had a very cheery evening with it all. Leaving took some time. We had received so many gifts from H.H. & the ladies,

SUMMARY:
Notebook page listing plant specimens with collection numbers, taxa, and localities such as Marlung, Pangshang, Chela La, Tseli La, Natu La, Ha (Hato), Shanthang, and Changu, along with day–month collection dates. Brief notes occur for some entries (e.g., possible flower color).

CONTENT:
19776 Lloydia yellow? Marlung. 27.9
19698 Cremanthodium Pangshang 8.9
19856 Prim. capitata v. crispata Maruthang. 17.10
19853 Cyananthus rosatus. Chela la 24.10
19854 Mec. simplicifolia Tseli la 26.10. May be pink 195
19855 " panic or nepal. Tseli la "
19544 Thalictrum chelidonii Damthang. 30.10.
19620 Codonopsis sp. nov. Ha (Hato) "
18040 Crabapple. Ha. 25.10.
19689 Polygonum vacciniifolium Natu la. 31.10 200
19860 Prim. capitata crispata Shanthang. 31.10.
19859 " Kingii. " 1.11
19861 " capitata Natu la 2.11.
(2) 19862 " obliqua Changu. "
19863 Mec. nivosa " "

SUMMARY:
While awaiting Taylor’s arrival at Molo on 17 May 1940, the party planned a four-week excursion south of the Himalayas and left Molo on 22 April for the Pachakshiri district. The page notes the rich flora of Sikkim and Bhutan toward the Tsangpo gorge and recalls a 1936 split expedition in the Tsari District, where Ludlow briefly explored near Lo La and Nyug La, revealing notable alpine flora.

CONTENT:
II
Ludlow - Sherriff
From Molo to Pachakshiri and back. April - May 1940.

We calculated that Taylor would not reach Molo till May 17th, so Ludlow and I had nearly four weeks in which to make a trip to the south of the Himalayas. Eastward from Mago little botanical exploration has been carried out south of the main axis, owing to the unfriendly tribes which inhabit that region. The flora of Sikkim and Bhutan is rich, and owing to increased rainfall as one goes eastward towards the Tsangpo gorge, it probably becomes richer. We therefore left Molo on the 22nd April full of hopes of getting a rich harvest from the Tibetan District of Pachakshiri, which lies southeast of Molo.

In 1936, when Ludlow and I visited the Tsari District, we split into two parties in the second half of June. I kept to the area where the various branches of the Subansiri River cut through the Himalayas, while Ludlow went east to Molo, with the intention of getting over the main axis to Pachakshiri. He had not much time, and owing to this, and the difficulty of getting transport to take him to Pachakshiri he was only able to spend a short time near the Lo La and a day or two on the Nyug La, near Lhalung. But these few days were ample to show how exceptionally interesting was the Alpine flora of the district visited. To take only the Genus Primula: Ludlow found the following new

SUMMARY:
From Gangtok, the writer notes a meeting with H.H. Sir Tashi Namgyal and plans to depart on 5th May with a return later in the month for a wedding, while severe hailstorms in Sikkim devastate gardens. On 5th May they travel to Karponang but stop short of Changu due to rain, noting vegetation changes en route, and mention delays and freight rates from Gielle Khola.

CONTENT:
4

Gielle Khola on 23rd, but has not yet arrived by this morning - 27th - although the distance is only 40 miles or so. The rate was Rs 1/2 per maund.

27th. Gangtok. Called on the Maharaja of Sikkim H.H. Sir Tashi Namgyal K.C.I.E. He and his wife both received us. He is a small but pleasant man: his wife is a nice looking woman who speaks quite good English. She is Tibetan, as is the custom of all Sikkim rulers.

3rd May. Gangtok. Arranged to leave on 5th May, and agreed on pressure to be W's best man, which means returning from Lingmathang to be here on 20th for the wedding on 22nd. All boxes packed and arranged at last. Rain and hail are awful in Sikkim. The ground was covered over 1" deep in hail yesterday evening, and all the flowers in the garden were destroyed, roses and foxgloves being cut right off by hail. The water lily leaves were cut up into pulp in a most extraordinary way.

Hailstorms frequent occurrence at Gangtok in the Spring.

5th May. KARPONANG. 10 miles. 9000'. It was pouring in the early morning, so we waited till 9:45 before leaving. Reached here 2:30 as rain again started, decided to remain and not go on to Changu as originally intended. Both very glad to leave Gangtok and get on the road again. The road is good and climbs steadily the 3000 ft from Gangtok. Vegetation changes as one gets up. We soon left all the pipal trees behind and reached a zone of bamboo: then above that to rhododendrons - great big trees.

pipal tree of the Hindus - Ficus religiosa. Throughout Sikkim - top diamond etc. and tail.

SUMMARY:
After staying at the Himalayan hotel in Kalimpong and meeting several contacts, the party arranged travel to Gangtok. On 26 April in Gangtok, Tobgye assisted in planning permits and a collecting route: Chumbi Valley near Lingmatang mid-May to early June, then the Ha area north of Ha and west of the Paro watershed, with plans to join Williamson and proceed toward Bumthang for a month’s collecting.

CONTENT:
agate 'pan' boxes,

At Kalimpong stayed at the Himalayan hotel, run by Perry whose wife is a daughter of Macdonald. Met the Odlings, Tobgye, Dr. Graham. Arranged car to Gangtok for Rs 30/- each.

26th Ap. GANGTOK. 6000'. Tobgye proved a great friend. He was apparently chiefly worried about where we intended to collect: thinking it would be in the Ha Paro District which is under the Penlop of Paro who is not too well inclined towards the Maharaja. When he realised that we wanted to go as far East as possible really, say N.E. of Bumthang he was considerably relieved & thought that there should be no great difficulty in getting permission for some time over the two months. Eventually, with his help we have come to this arrangement: to work the Chumbi valley near Lingmatang from mid-May till the beginning of June: then to cross the frontier to the Ha area, keeping north of Ha & West of the Paro watershed. This is Tobgye's land - his son being penlop of Ha. Williamson intends to leave here 25th June, and would join him at Ha at the beginning of July, travel slowly with him to Bumtang. Then Tobgye thinks we will get a month's full collecting N.E. of Bumtang. Some of the trouble was caused by a lama who has been up against H.H. for burning the brushwood in forests to increase grazing, by doing which he was of course taking life by

SUMMARY:
At dawn the party observed several skeins of Greylag Geese passing their ridge and heading north toward the Chungkar range and the Tibetan plateau; in the evening they tuned in to Indian and Scottish reels before turning in early. On the Deo Chu below the first river crossing they encountered a large Bhutanese encampment where lac from East Bhutan was being bought by Tobgye's agents and sent to Calcutta, noting beeswax and an altitude of about 2000 feet.

CONTENT:
L. p. 8 - At about 7 am. we saw 4 skeins of Greylag Geese pass over the ridge on which we were encamped. One skein was so low as to be almost within gunshot. After crossing the ridge they rapidly gained altitude & we watched them through glasses heading due north towards the Chungkar range. We calculated that in 3 hours at the most they would have crossed the main range & be over the Tibetan plateau.

L. p. 9 Listened in to the Indian & Scottish Reel music in the evening, but we were so tired by half ten, when Delhi was ready, except to note that we gave it up & went to bed. We have our own daylight saving time on trek - up at dawn or thereabouts & in bed a couple of hours after dusk.

Ludlow 8-9 On the Deo Chu, just below the first crossing of the River we came across a large Bhutanese encampment where the lac brought down from various parts of East Bhutan is bought from the people by Tobgye's agents & despatched to Calcutta. Some good beeswax also noted. The altitude 2000'

SUMMARY:
Notes damp weather, farewell to Pimbo, Kuntip, and Danong while taking on Tenduk, with praise for the Bhutanese workers; Tenduk will help with Kusho until the party returns to Sikkim. Describes dry, treeless country, the Kuru Chu gorge near Lhakang and its several local names, steady progress by coolies including many women wearing the Lhassa head dress, and few notable flowers or birds. A margin note mentions reunion at Yatung on Oct 3.

CONTENT:
81

Disappointing, weather still inclined to be damp. Some rain & hills always in clouds. We parted with Pimbo & Kuntip & Danong today, but are taking on Tenduk with us. These Bhutanese have been perfectly splendid workers, on for anything at any time, never having to be told to do a thing. We shall miss them, but Tenduk is a good lad will help us a lot with Kusho till we get back to Sikkim. The country today is all dry with no trees except in the villages. The gorge of the Kuru Chu is a fine one even at Lhakang, but must be much finer further down, where it cuts right through the main Himalayan Range. It is impossible to find out the name of a river here. The Kuru Chu is known near Lhakang as the Thing Chu, further up more generally as the Lhobrak Chu. It also has other names - the Mo chi chu & so on, varying at most stages. The coolies were good today & kept up an average for the first 10 miles of about 2 1/2 m.p.h. About a third were women. The women here wear the Lhassa head dress, a triangular affair perched precariously on the head. No flowers of any interest seen, & hardly any birds at all, except one bunting, choughs (red billed) & pigeon of three kinds.

reunited on Oct 3 at Yatung. S. 105
B. 26. Gorge of Kuru Chu - down

SUMMARY:
Travel from Gyantse to Dochen via Phari and Tuna with notes on weather, flowering plants, and limited seed collecting. Transport disputes with local headmen lead to a bribe; Pangdatshang intervenes, the party meets Dorje Tsering, exchanges currency, attempts wildfowl hunting, and receives letters of introduction from Tsarong.

CONTENT:
21st October. Gyantse. Very fine day after three days of heavy rain. We are not taking any specimens yet, but only a few seeds here & there. Today there were several fine clumps of Gentiana amoena in full bloom. Besides these there are many of a sp. of small blue Swertia, some Asters, Cyananthus lobatus, the usual odd blooms of Rhod. cinnabarinum which always appear in October. The Headmen of Yatung lived up to their reputation. They will not supply transport at the rates laid down. We have transport from Kalimpong to Gyantse, & yesterday the headmen tried to stop it going beyond Yatung. However Pangdatshang ordered them to let us go without hindrance.

22 October. Phari. Very cold in the morning, with thin clouds. Cleared up later and was lovely. Met by Dorje Tsering this time. Exchanged rupees at 3.35 sangs per rupee. The only seeds collected were P. bellidifolia. I could not find P. tenella under the snow.

23rd October. Tuna. A clear but very cold day indeed until we reached Shabra Shubra, about 12.15. As usual we could not get off to time, even though we had our own through transport. Last night the Phari headmen demanded a bribe. We could take our own transport if we liked, they said: if we did then they would of course not supply any other sahibs. Rs 20 bribe paid that night. Saw no gazelle or game of any kind.

24 October. Dochen. Fine still. Went after duck & geese in the afternoon. Have seen but we could get near nothing. Got a large letter from Tsarong enclosing several letters to people on our way. These should be very useful later on. All are in Tibetan, so we have not been able to see yet who they are addressed to.

SUMMARY:
Diary notes describe arrival at Gyantse after storms, a visit to Tering Raja, meeting Worth and Rajput officers, and mail issues, with B.31 sent to Calcutta on 21 September 1937. Subsequent days in Gyantse included social calls on the Kengchung, a good lunch, and tennis with Worth, Henlin, and Capel, with observations of local crops and a parnassius butterfly.

CONTENT:
99
barley & mustard crops - & peas
the barley being again nearly ripe. There are also peas. Saw nothing very interesting in the way of birds, but saw one parnassius. It was too lively & we failed to catch it.

17th September. GYANTSE. 16 miles. 13000'. Very heavy
B. 31. thunderstorm with hail all night & a lot of snow on the
Leaving camp ground when we left, very late, at 9.0 am. On our
at Gobshi. way in it was showery & we got rather soaked
once. Called in to see Tering Raja, the rightful ruler
of Sikkim, now banished here - a most delightful man.
Found Worth & two officers of Rajputs here - all very
kind. Also a really fine mail, but some of our
letters must have gone astray, as we miss some
parcels which must have reached here had our
letters not been lost.

B 31 sent from Gyantse 21.9.37 to Calcutta

Sept 19 - we at Gyantse
B. 31. finished 24th Sept. Gyantse. Last day in Gyantse. We could very
Chang girls well have done with less than a week here, as there has
in Gyantse: not been very much of interest to do. We called on the
view of Gyantse Kengchung & another day had lunch with him. He is
Dzong & country a cheery soul living in a monastery, but living better
round about. than one expects a monk to. He gave a most
B. 32. excellent meal - not too long with nothing forced on
Monastery Gyantse. his guests. Also played pretty bad tennis twice
Tibetan women. with Worth & Henlin & Capel. It was nice to have