Part 55 - Halts near Laka and Tonse with local reports and field observations (early February)

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SUMMARY:
Entries for early February describe halts near Laka, arrival of loads, and cordial interactions with locals who report oppression by soldiers and taxes to Kanam. The author notes bird observations and hunting attempts, mentions an iron mine near Chara, sends Lahu to search for game, asks the Tonse headman for Crossoptilon, and records geographic details around Makutang, Sibhe La, and Temo Channa.

CONTENT:
...their houses and beat them up. But others are unpopular: taxes also have to be paid to Kanam; why that should be so I don't know when Kanam is not here.

1st Feb. Halt. Clear at first and very cold. Only 15 loads came yesterday. The rest arrived about 3:00 pm today. Lahu and Balbahadur were left behind for the day. Locals here seem to be glad to see us. They are outspoken about 'zulm' here, chiefly by soldiers. Laka headman's son is a nice lad. He says there are lots of 'Chaugai', also 'kap', monal and blood pheasant. I am sending Lahu up there in a day or two to look.

2nd Feb. Halt. Cloudy and pretty cold, but improving.

3rd Feb. Halt. Clear and beautiful day. We went up the spur East of Laka and had a fine view of the lake and silted up bed, which a local says is covered with water in summer. Locals are all nice. They come and talk and offer to do anything wanted without thought of money. All headmen from round about have come in, with presents. There is an iron mine up behind Chara in the hills, said to be better than the Be one. It can be reached by a path and one can get there and back in a day. Crossoptilon are said only to be near Tonse. I have asked the Tonse headman to get me one or two and he says he will.

4th Feb. Halt. Clear all day. Went up to Makutang. Saw a number of geese, missed three sitters. Also for the first time saw some waders, got 2 out of 3. There were a number of mallard too up near Makutang with the geese. I saw marks of one crane, which the locals say occasionally come here. There is a small 'tru' near Tonse, but in summer this does not function, is replaced by a 'dring', the rope of which is made of bamboo. This bamboo is said to come from 1 day's march upstream. This shows that there is more rain up there. Lahu was in the hills above Laka today. He found 3 small clumps of small bamboo there too, but says there is very little. The nala from the Sibhe La does not come down to Temo Channa, but comes in about a mile or 1 1/2 miles to the East of the Channa fan. It is a very steep sided gorge.

5th Feb. Halt. Clear till evening. Clouds come up most evenings now, but they aren't very...