Part 5 - Gyantse to Dochen diary entries, 21–24 October

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SUMMARY:
Travel from Gyantse to Dochen via Phari and Tuna with notes on weather, flowering plants, and limited seed collecting. Transport disputes with local headmen lead to a bribe; Pangdatshang intervenes, the party meets Dorje Tsering, exchanges currency, attempts wildfowl hunting, and receives letters of introduction from Tsarong.

CONTENT:
21st October. Gyantse. Very fine day after three days of heavy rain. We are not taking any specimens yet, but only a few seeds here & there. Today there were several fine clumps of Gentiana amoena in full bloom. Besides these there are many of a sp. of small blue Swertia, some Asters, Cyananthus lobatus, the usual odd blooms of Rhod. cinnabarinum which always appear in October. The Headmen of Yatung lived up to their reputation. They will not supply transport at the rates laid down. We have transport from Kalimpong to Gyantse, & yesterday the headmen tried to stop it going beyond Yatung. However Pangdatshang ordered them to let us go without hindrance.

22 October. Phari. Very cold in the morning, with thin clouds. Cleared up later and was lovely. Met by Dorje Tsering this time. Exchanged rupees at 3.35 sangs per rupee. The only seeds collected were P. bellidifolia. I could not find P. tenella under the snow.

23rd October. Tuna. A clear but very cold day indeed until we reached Shabra Shubra, about 12.15. As usual we could not get off to time, even though we had our own through transport. Last night the Phari headmen demanded a bribe. We could take our own transport if we liked, they said: if we did then they would of course not supply any other sahibs. Rs 20 bribe paid that night. Saw no gazelle or game of any kind.

24 October. Dochen. Fine still. Went after duck & geese in the afternoon. Have seen but we could get near nothing. Got a large letter from Tsarong enclosing several letters to people on our way. These should be very useful later on. All are in Tibetan, so we have not been able to see yet who they are addressed to.