Part 65 - Feb. 22–23: Over Karmala ridge to TSAKCHUGONG via TANA LA and HOJA LA

1 page

SUMMARY:
Steep ascents and descents through dense forest with limited views due to Tsuga and rhododendrons; a Daphne tree in full bloom and a flock of pigeons are noted. Locals bring a fowl, radishes, and milk and prepare a camp; the party crosses TANA LA and HOJA LA to TSAKCHUGONG with glimpses from R. Sanglung to the Gyala Peri range, and the locals are described as Bhutanese and healthier than upper Po-Tsangpo Tibetans.

CONTENT:
Feb. 22. Luculia pinceana 12240. Brassaiopsis karmelane sp. nov. 12244 Rhod. tanastylum 12246. 59

over 8000', then equally steep descent this side. Most of the march was today through dense forest, with some clearings made for cultivation. The pass is on a knife edge ridge, the view from the pass - if one could see it clearly - would be one which we would have to go far to beat. But there are many large Tsuga trees & Rhodos too, which block the view, except in little patches. On the pass we found one Rhodo in flower, one Daphne tree in full bloom. I have never seen the latter before - a tree of 15-18 ft with a trunk about 6" in diam. On the way up we saw one flock of 6 pigeons - the first I remember seeing in Tibet, other than the snow pigeons & the ones on the plateau. Luculia pinceana is common & we found one other Rhodo in bud, just about to flower. Locals came from tomorrow's stage to meet us here & brought a fowl, radishes & milk & prepared a place in thick forest for our tents. There are no houses here, only small level patches in dense forest. Habits as well as looks of locals seem to recall Bhutanese. They are also much healthier than the Tibetans of the Kigong upper Po-Tsangpo, & are stronger & cleaner. There is a very high cliff from the Karmala ridge down to the river, and the river here appears very narrow indeed. There are falls here of perhaps 20 ft.

23rd Feb. TSAKCHUGONG. Another perfect day, with clouds only coming up in the evening. We left at 7.00 am & walked fairly fast to the Pass. But again we could see nothing from the actual pass, owing to trees. The ascent is very steep & long taking about 1 1/2 hours. There are at the top some magnificent Tsuga & pine trees, which I estimate to be over 200 ft high. We saw no flowers at all, but had glimpses of the truly magnificent range here & there - from R. Sanglung to the westernmost of the Gyala Peri range. I took one or two photos with the early morning light, when it was particularly beautiful. The pass is called the TANA LA, & on this side there is a subsidiary pass called the HOJA LA. The Pangyuta of Ward is beside camp in TSAKCHUGONG only over a very small ridge. The locals again are stronger, cleaner & finer men than further up the valley. They are Bhutanese.