Showing 20 results

SUMMARY:
Describes a frosty halt day, continued collection of Gentiana (lacunulata), and praise for the seed collector Tupden. Notes comparisons of the Dhu Chu area with the Bumthang Chu, reports a letter from HH about upcoming arrivals (Hicks, MK, Tasho Drunyer), tallies seed and plant collections, and mentions confirmations by Ludlow and Taylor regarding Mec. Sherriffii.

CONTENT:
with Mec. paniculata, simplicifolia & horridula, all of which are in cultivation at home. Tupden is one of the best seed collectors there could be. He takes great pains & always goes on till called away. I wished to have had him from the beginning. Now I know him, I find him very good indeed. He is a Khampa, probably a runaway murderer or something like that, from Markham. The area of the Dhu Chu is something like shown opposite.

4th October Halt. Another lovely day, & very cold hard frost last night. The tents each night now are covered with frost inside & out, & this makes them very heavy. Nothing special happened today. I went out to look for more of yesterday's Gentiana (lacunulata) 19789, & after a while we found a lot of it. It reminds me of G. amplicrata which we first found at Zimsati near Sangacholing in Takpo. I don't think it is G. depressa, & certainly isn't G. amoena. The more I see of this area, the better it looks. It holds much more than the Bumthang Chu valley, although this is a tributary of the Bumthang Chu. It must be more than just not so many yaks here, although there is no doubt that many yaks, & sheep too, in a valley, make a very great difference to the flora. A letter came in from HH to say Tasho Drunyer will arrive on 6th. So with Hicks on 5th, MK on 6th & us on 7th, there will be some activity in Bumthang this week. The main seed collection is now over, & I have about 130 gatherings of seed now, besides the 40-50 taken before & some 25 rooted plants & a number of bulbs & tubers & corms & so on. Ludlow tells me he has 5 lbs. of seed of Mec. Sherriffii! That shows how common it is when it does occur. Taylor has confirmed that it is Mec. Sherriffii, but a very fine form of it.

SUMMARY:
Marched 7 miles to Sefu in persistent rain; Pritiman fell into a stream, soaking the rucksack. Presents and letters arrived from Lama Gompa and Domkhar, and later from Penlop Wangdi, with letters from HH and Naku; HH has sent another load. Tenduk rejoined after a long detour via Yundrucholing and Trongsa due to a washed-out bridge over the Wochen Chu, bringing a good collection of iris seeds from Punzor in the Mangde Chu valley.

CONTENT:
8th August. To Sefu. 7 miles. Rained all night: fine till 12.0 then rain all day. Tenduk never came back yesterday, and has not yet turned up. He must have found a bridge washed away, and has had to go back by Trongsa. I hope he has not been washed away too. More presents and letters arrived yesterday from Lama Gompa and Domkhar. I hope that is now all. Pritiman distinguished himself by falling into a stream today. He gets laughed at by everyone, but today he was by himself and no one would have known if he had only emptied the water out of my rucksack which he was carrying. The contents were not improved of course. Tenduk arrived at 7.0 pm, having walked from Trongsa today about 27 miles. On his way back from Punzor he found the bridge over the Wochen Chu washed away, so had to return to Yundrucholing and then round by Trongsa. (Iris decora? seeds - from Punzor, Mangde Chu valley) He has a very good collection of iris seed, which he found fully ripe and mostly thrown in the lower irises, but in good condition higher up, even unripe at their highest limit. I am very glad he is back again. He gives me the unwelcome information that still another load has been sent by HH for me. Three men came yesterday with presents from Penlop Wangdi and letters from HH and Naku. I thought all the present business was over. I'm glad

SUMMARY:
At a high camp around 10,000 ft with scarce water, the writer describes leeches, midges, and limited washing, expecting no water at the next camp. Locals share stories of the Black Mountain’s golden, silver, and emerald lakes and rock salt, recalling an old man punished by HH for musk deer trapping and a mad lama who returned with rock salt three years ago.

CONTENT:
to stick to the ridge. Even then, one would expect some water, but there is none. A few leeches today; midges awful in last camp, but we are almost too high for them here. We must now be at 10,000 ft. The locals have many stories about the Black Mountain. There is one old man with me who used to come up here 20 years ago to shoot or trap musk deer. When HH heard of it he had him beaten, so he has not been here since. There are said to be three kinds of lakes near the top - one golden, one silver and one emerald. They say also that rock salt is found on the mountain, but that the Tibetans prayed the Bhutanese not to use it, as they would have nothing to trade if they did. So now it is not used. This is hearsay, but 3 years ago a mad lama went up the Black Mountain and came back with a big piece of rock salt. So there must be something in the story. They say we will not have any water even in tomorrow's camp. I have not shaved or washed these last two days, but have at least had two small cups of tea at breakfast and at tea time. This camp must have been the scene of a terrific storm,

SUMMARY:
Arrived in Bumthang, met by Tasho at Kurji; Hicks arrived later due to Trinley’s septic foot. Plans set to leave on 13 October, with Gundra and Basang going on 9 October to Sephu, Omta Tso, Thampala, and Ritang; received news from home written 8 September and discussed Tasho’s behavior toward Raja Dorji. From 8–10 October at Haat, with heavy rain and a meal with HH on the 8th.

CONTENT:
7th October. Bumthang. Arrived here at 8:30, along a very wet path. There had been a thunderstorm and very heavy rain in the night, - but was worse down this way: Tasho met us in Kurji, where we again stay, and here there was no news of Hicks. But a letter came in from him at 10:00 saying he would be in today, and he arrived at 1:30. He was late because Trinley, Ashi Wangmo's man who has been with him, got a septic foot and couldn't walk any further. So now our plans are all made, we will leave on 13th October, and Gundra and Basang will go on 9th for their little trip to Sephu, Omta Tso, Thampala and Ritang. Tasho only arrived yesterday himself. Got a mail, and Betty is getting on well, written on 8th September from home. Tasho stayed for a long time till after Hicks arrived and I had a pretty good talk to him about various things, including his behaviour to Raja Dorji in Kalimpong, and the way he changed his mind and did just as he wanted to irrespective of anyone else. I hope all that did good, and Tasho took it really very well.

8th - 10th October. Haat. A good deal of rain, some very heavy indeed, but a good deal of sun too. We had a meal with HH on 8th and stayed there for some

SUMMARY:
The diarist arrives near a new palace and is lodged in a specially prepared house, meets Nahu, and pays a visit to HH with the Maharani and young Jigme. From 24–31 July they halt at Domkhar with much social activity; Wangmo is at Lama Gomp and Pedmadechen at Wangcholing.

CONTENT:
quite good, and much admired the buglers who bugled hard even when climbing a 1 in 4 hillside. We passed the new palace, a grand looking place and came on 1/2 mile beyond, where a special house has been erected for me. It is a grand place, with hall, reception room, bed-writing room, bath room and usual offices a little way away. The whole thing is very pukka, all lined with cloth, walls and ceilings, while carpets are on the floors.

Nahu met me here and we talked for an hour or more, but he has forgotten nearly all his Hindi, and conversation was not too bright. Then I went to see HH, with the Maharani and Jigme, who is a grand little boy of 10 (8 according to our counting). HH has not changed at all, and is just the same charming man as before. I just stayed a couple of hours with him and then came away.

24th July, 25th July, 26th, 27th, 28th, 29th, 30th, 31st July. Halt Domkhar. These days have been a little trying, with lots of talk and lots of eating. But I have not got much of what I wanted to do done. In Domkhar are HH and the Maharani, Nahu, and little Jigme. Wangmo is in Lama Gomp and Pedmadechen in Wangcholing so I have not seen them. HH is very strict with all his people,

SUMMARY:
Travel from Gyetsa to Bumthang in rainy, misty weather with few notable plants collected and leeches troublesome. The diarist meets HH, discussing his health, former drinking, and his visit to holy water near Kurjey monastery; news includes Kapshopa Shape being locked up (said to be in Netang/Nechung) and reported trouble between the DL and the Tibetan Government. Dansey passes through the area and Dorji Llowden is expected shortly.

CONTENT:
was here. We got a few flowers again today, including a rather striking creeper 19664 which I don't ever remember having seen before. Leeches pretty bad. Dansey & Co passed through here rumoured to be in Bumthang today, I'm told.

31st August. Gyetsa. Heavy rain all night, but clearing up soon after we left. Mist much like the Yuto La, and then pretty clear and bright. Nothing of interest anywhere on the way. Here the country looks very pretty indeed, with the patches of bright pink here and there of the buckwheat crops.

1st September. Bumthang. Wet night, but just fine till we got here when there was quite a lot of sun. I sent a letter to HH to ask if I could come to see him today or tomorrow. He sent round to say he was coming today at 12.0 and he came. We had a pleasant talk, with the ever present difficulty of Urdu and Hindi. He seems in good form, but had again had a giddy fit on the way to Tongsa. I asked him today if he drank much, and he gave the answer "Not now. I used to when worried and depressed, but have given it up." He was quite frank about it, and I am sure truthful. HH was on his way to have a bathe in some very holy water just beyond Kurjey monastery which is supposed to be very good for one. Khampas take a lot of the water away with them when on pilgrimage from Kham. HH told me that Kapshopa Shape was very safely locked up. He said in Netang. I wonder if he means Nechung. He is said to be shut up in a small place where there is little more than room for himself. He also said there was some trouble between the DL and the Tib. Government. I should think that Kapshopa is at the bottom of it all. What surprises me is that they all seem surprised that Kapshopa should be locked up. A more patently crooked man it would be hard to find, always too nicely spoken. Dorji Llowden is coming the day after tomorrow. I'm glad to have tomorrow free as

SUMMARY:
The diarist manages specimens and arranges penicillin injections for Danang in hospital, while noting a letter from Ludlow via Yundu confirming successful plant finds. Plans are made for travel to meet Ludlow at Pasu Sefu and for Pasang and Mundrup to collect primulas via Tumle La, Tongsa, Chendesi, and Ritang, with mention of a hoped-for bridge over the Tang Chu.

CONTENT:
I've a lot to do, with photos and dry flowers. Danang is here in hospital. He seems better, but I have not yet seen him. I hope he will come tomorrow, as I have asked the doctor to come too, and will start 4 hourly injections. I have only 10 doses I can give him, and hope that will do the trick. Ludlow sent a letter with Yundu, and a small press of flowers. He has found every one of the wanted plants - P. umbratilis alba, P. tsariensis, P. tsariensis alba, P. uniflora, Lychnis Wardii, P. strumosa and fine forms of Meconopsis horridula. Yundu has marked all the plants too, and I hope will be able to get them all in October. If so, that little trip will have been very worth while.

2nd September. Haat. Mostly fine in the valley, with a heavy shower or two. I got Danang along here this morning. There is no doubt he is better than he was. But I am sure that penicillin must be the thing to give him, as I have 10 injections, we have started at 12 today. He must take a chance after this, as I must go off on 5th. He and Sompoli must go off on 10th at latest to catch Ludlow at Pasu Sefu. If he can't go by then, he must join me or go back to Kalimpong by himself. The valley here is very pretty now, with the beautiful pink fields of buckwheat scattered over the valley bottom, and in places along the sides too. I don't remember noticing this so much before. HH seems to think that he will have some kind of bridge made over the Tang Chu before very long - in a month he suggests. I do hope so, as it will save us a long chukker again. I have tried to work out how long it will take Pasang and Mundrup to get the two primulas on the Tumle La, then to Tongsa and then to collect all plants from Ludlow's area. I think it will take 6 days from Chendesi to Ritang or back to Chendesi, and altogether from here 11 days, which will take 4 to Chendesi or 5 to Ritang. So if we start on 15th we will reach Ritang on 19th, and Pasang must start on 9th to reach Ritang or Chendesi on the 19th.

SUMMARY:
The diarist halts at Dungkar, plans to cross the Rudo La, and writes to HH, Wangmoo, and Lhuntse about arrangements. Botanical notes mention a primula (18846) from Tim resembling earlier Lo La material and a likely Cochlearia (18847) previously seen in 1937 at Tang Chu, Central Bhutan. Yundru, servant of the Nyerchen Trepa, arrives from forced labour at Sam Choling monastery and is taken on permanently for the journey to Tomtem.

CONTENT:
I must now write to HH & give him the new programme, & to Wangmoo to say I will see her on the way, & to Lhuntse to say I want transport.

11th May. Halt Dungkar. Another fine day after rain at night, but only a little. It is nice to think that, all being well, we should be over the Rudo La before having to halt again. It would be nice to halt on the pass itself, but coolie difficulty makes that out of the question. Now there are five days to get through as best we may before anything of interest is likely to be seen. At Tim we got one interesting primula 18846, which will no doubt be put down as P. atrodentata, but which is more like one of the ones put aside last year for discussion, & which is like my 3636 from the Lo La. With the primula was one other plant 18847, which I have only seen once before, & that in Bhutan. I think it was number 3209, taken in Cent. Bhutan, Tang Chu, in 1937. I rather think that was probably a sp. nov. of Cochlearia but has not yet been named. Unfortunately there was but one specimen here to be found, & it, like the primula, had come down from a good deal higher, near 13-14000'.

Today the Nyerchen Trepa's servant, Yundru, arrived. He was one of the many forced labourers at Sam Choling monastery, the new monastery being built by Ashe Wangmoo where Tasho Haku died. One man per household from this area has to go, & has been there for months. I got him leave to get away from that, so as to come to Tomtem with me. Now we are in fact there, I have not been sure what to do, but decided to take him with us as permanent.

SUMMARY:
After an early start, Tasho and his man led the diarist to Codonopsis aff. vinciflora, and there are notes on discussing with HH the organization of medical work in Bhutan, including a hospital at Tongsa and rest houses. On 23 August at Isalunape heavy rains had altered the river and plants were later than in 1937, with the Zimpon improving the lodging. On 24 August at Tahudu the party reached camp early despite washed-out paths, noting large patches of Lilium wallichianum, finding Luculia pinceana, and collecting old seed of Streptocarpus simplex.

CONTENT:
After 6:00 am Tasho rode up the first mile. Here one of his men pointed out Codonopsis 'aff. vinciflora', the one I was looking for when we last passed. It was just where we had been looking, but then it was not in flower, all mixed up in the holly oak foliage. Now we saw about a hundred plants, all just coming into flower, so it must be about a fortnight later this year. Tasho was nicer and showed more life this time. He appears to have been talking to Jigme Dorji about various things in the country - hospital at Tongsa, getting the doctors going, and medicine organised etc. I am going to talk to HH about it all, and see if HH will give Tasho the job of organising all medical work now in Bhutan, also putting the rest houses in order.

23rd August. Isalunape. 5:30 to 10:00. Mist and some rain, but just fine all day. It is obvious that there has been exceedingly heavy rain lately. The river is quite different now and it is over the path in 3-4 places and much discoloured. This certainly seems the wetter month in Bhutan. I notice all plants here are later than in 1937. P. capitata and crispata are just coming into flower now, and in '37 they were in full flower by 12 August. Ceratostigma also is just becoming a fine sight. The Zimpon met me here, and has obviously taken great trouble to make this place better than before. Beds are made, curtains hanging (!) and all sorts of improvements. All I'm afraid of are fleas and bugs.

24th August. Tahudu. Fine most of the day, but misty and damp. There has been terrific rain everywhere lately, and the path is washed away in very many places. We were all in camp by 2:45 or 3, after 5:15 start. The only interesting things were the sight, across the valley here, of 2 patches of each of about 100 Lilium wallichianum. And I found Luculia pinceana. It is a beautiful tree, with very fine big flowers. Got (old) seed of Streptocarpus simplex.

SUMMARY:
The diarist receives letters from Betty and outlines plans: Hicks will arrive in Bumthang on 5 Oct, they hope to leave about the 13th and reach Tashigang on 3 Nov; the party will include Ludlow, the diarist, Betty, Virginia, Tess, and Tasho. Entries for 30 September at Pangotang and 1 October at Tolegang note wet weather, seed collecting (including Primula umbratilis), Pasang and Mundru’s work continuing until 17 October, a visit from the Sokpon who received gifts, and mail sent to HH for Kalimpong.

CONTENT:
To cheer me up today—I was feeling very miserable—a mail came in, with letters from Betty in Calcutta at last, and also from her in London. Nothing from HH at all for the first time when a mail has been sent. Hicks confirms that he will arrive in Bumthang on 5th Oct. So we should be able to leave on 13th about, and reach Tashigang on 3 Nov. Ludlow has got a passage, Betty says, and also she and I, Virginia, Tess, and Tasho. So we should have a good time, 6 of us from Bhutan.

30th September. Pangotang. It rained all night again, but was fine when Pasang and Mundru went off about 6:00 am. We were off just after them, and had a day half rain half fine, but no sun. It doesn't look yet like clearing up, but I do most sincerely hope it is fine now for four days. There is a lot to be got in Tolegang and quite a lot on the other side. After that it doesn't matter so much, except for Pasang and Mundru, whose work won't finish until 17 October. Primula umbratilis here is nearly ripe, and I got some seed, but the big Androsace is still green. This is our last of many halts in Pangotang. The Sokpon came to call and I gave him a little bottle of saffron and a torch, which is doing him very well. But we've been in his district for a long time now, ever since 23rd of May. Sent off a small mail to HH for Kalimpong. I shall only be able to send off one more after this, except for Ha.

1st October. Tolegang. Fine till 10:00 then rain and snow off and on the rest of the day. We are camped about 14,000-14,500' and it is raw and chilly. We got some seed of Primula umbratilis, the very pale form which occurs here, and a few other things. But the Phlomis (19716) I particularly wanted, is still in flower; seeds are not nearly ripe. Neither are seeds of the interesting Gentian 19721. But I took roots of