Showing 9 results

SUMMARY:
Diary notes from Pangotang describe ongoing rains, plans to visit Marlung before turning back, and requests regarding taking Yundru and Ngudup to Kalimpong, with preference for Yundru. The writer develops Hicks’ photos, comments on Thompson’s image of P. eburnea, sends Dorji with airmail to Hicks and HH, and packs a ‘tsang’ of rooted plants for shipment to London, hoping to add more from Marlung and Ritang.

CONTENT:
147

Air mail plants
more specimens and also some roots. I have now so many roots to send home by air, that I wonder how many loads there will be, also how much it will all cost!

24th Sept. Pangotang. Fine morning, and a bit of rain after midday. There really is precious little sign of the end of the rains, although I keep on hoping there is. We are, in a way, on our way back home now. But still there is one place, Marlung, to visit, before we can say we have turned round and started back. But everyone obviously feels that things are winding up. I had a request today from Pasang, from Ngudup and Yundru that I should take both to Kalimpong. I don't mind taking Yundru, who is a good and cheery lad and a good worker, but I hope I won't have to take Ngudup one day beyond Bumthang. I do not like him, and except to arrange transport, he is useless. I am writing to HH tomorrow to ask for Changchuk, and to give him our final dates. Today I developed Hicks' photos. If only he had taken my advice at first, all his photos would have been like these which are good. But he would not, and considered he knew better. Thompson's photo of P. eburnea is quite good, much better than Hicks' first efforts. It is a real disappointment to me that in 6 months he has only taken 48 photos altogether, in spite of having lots of film packs available. There were so many photos he could have taken.

25th September. Sent off Dorji and with airmail to Hicks, HH and Kalimpong and paid him Rs 24/-. We then packed up a 'tsang' with rooted plants, each rooted plant in its own little basket inside the big one. The whole thing now is ready to go to London, except that I hope there will be a few more plants added from Marlung, and then more again at Ritang.
roots

SUMMARY:
The writers received provisions and friendly letters sent by H.H., note Dorji’s recovery and Tobgye’s imminent departure for Kalimpong, and an invitation to return to collect seeds. They describe a short, easy march up the Kuru Chu via Lalung to Munda, with bridges, ample water but scarce fuel, observed crops, and fine valley views.

CONTENT:
here today, we found that H.H. had sent a man to meet us with apples, vegetables & scarves, besides letters from everyone at Bumthang. Dorji is nearly well again & Tobgye goes off soon for Kalimpong, so we won't see him again soon. H.H. asks us both to return another year - anytime we like, & hopes we will manage then to collect seeds. All the letters were very friendly. We will send messages back from here by his man. Today's march was very short, & tomorrow is even shorter, but the weather has cleared up & is beautiful - positively hot in the sun. The sky is a most lovely colour of bright clear blue.

9th September. MUNDA. 13650' 6 1/2 miles. To easy march up the Kuru Chu past a good deal of cultivation. Cross the river at Lalung to R. bank again. Path is good & easy up a broad open valley the whole way to Munda. Pass a village & cultivation at m 3 1/2 and at m 4. Then path crosses a stony waste to m 5, where cultivation is again met on both sides of the river. Munda is on the L bank at m 6 1/2 where the river is crossed by a bridge. There are also bridges at m 3 1/2 & 4. Water ample, wood fuel now becoming scarce. Crops are barley wheat & peas.

A grand day, but with too many clouds about. It rained a little in the night. The view up & down the valley is lovely - a big open valley with clouds & snow hills.

B. 27. finished. View down the Kuru (Khobrak) Chu from 3 1/2 m above Lalung.
B. 28. Ditto from further up the river to Munda.

SUMMARY:
The writer describes a steep, tiring march to Singhi Dzong, noting a small monastery, shelter, fir wood, water, and grazing, as well as river confluences from Khuma Chu and the Kangha–Narim Thang direction. They dispute an official route description from 1907 and mention that without road work the approach would have been difficult. Singhi Dzong is noted as a puja center, with special ceremonies ordered due to Dorji’s illness, attended by the Maharaja’s brother and the Lhuentse zimpon.

CONTENT:
69
East
miles there is a precipitous cliff on the right hand side. At Singhi Dzong there is a small monastery & a small pukka built shelter of sorts. The main Khuma Chu river comes in from a valley to the North West, while another smaller river enters from the Kangha - Narim Thang direction. There are plenty of fir wood at Singhi Dzong & water, & fair grazing. This was a longish day & a steep tiring climb. We walked most of it although we have two mules of the Lhuentse zimpons. A Tibetan proverb says "A horse is no horse unless it can carry a man up hills, & a man is no man unless he gets off his horse & walks downhill". But we could hardly blame any animals for not carrying a man up today's march. The funny thing is that the official route book says "There is an excellent riding path the whole way to Narim Thang". That was written from White's description in 1907, when it may possibly have been true. If we hadn't had the road "made" for us, I don't know how we should have reached here. Singhi Dzong is a place of some importance as a centre of puja (worship). With Dorji's illness, orders have come here for special puja to be made. A brother of the Maharaja's is also here for puja; & the zimpon of Lhuentse has come too, with that as his excuse. It is a bleak, desolate place, with huge

SUMMARY:
Notes leech-bite injuries and a halt at Trongsa with a visit to the Dzong and lunch with Dorji, followed by archery and photo work. The next day they march to Gye Tsa via Yuto La, collect plants, and describe contrasting vegetation across the pass.

CONTENT:
40

developed a septic arm from a leech bite, & Ludlow has
blisters on his feet from putting silver nitrate crystals on leech
bites which would not stop bleeding. The doctor should
never have allowed this. Our opinion of him is not very
high at the moment.

8th July. Halt at TRONGSA. Fair for half the day. Went to the Dzong,
which is the Maharaja's winter residence, & had lunch with
Dorji, & an excellent lunch it was too. After lunch had
some archery. Rest of the day spent developing photos, &
doing up bird.

9th July. GYE TSA. 9845' 12 miles. A very steep ascent for the
Clematis montana
V. tongluensis 252
Rhod. camelliiflorum 253
RH
first seven miles to the Yuto La (11200') in rain & mist.
Cleared up at 1.0 pm. Ludlow & I stayed at the pass &
collected. There was a lovely big clematis on the way up -
the biggest wild one I have ever seen. Vegetation on each
side of the pass is absolutely different - on the west, dense
deciduous jungle & bamboo: immediately over the pass nothing
but conifers & the country much more open, with pasture
here & there. This valley is far the finest & richest we
have seen. It is open, with well wooded slopes all
round. A very comfortable new camp built here

• SUMMARY:
  The diarist records a warm farewell from friends in Bumthang, including H.H. and the ladies (notably Ashe Paldon), with gifts and a light‑hearted evening dressing in various outfits. Route notes describe an easy ascent along the left bank to THANG NARU, a river difficult to ford in summer, muddy sections, a 150-foot cliff with houses and a monastery, and scattered houses along the Tang Chu valley.

CONTENT:
43

Tobgye & Ludlow

• m. 13. The river is of considerable size in summer & would only
  at farewell at

• be fordable in certain places with difficulty. Thence easy
  Bumthang: on

• ascent along left bank to THANG NARU at m 15. 1/2 mile
  first pass beyond

• above bridge there is a 150' cliff on R. bank of river below which
  Bumthang. F.L.,

• are some houses & a monastery. Route here is very muddy in
  Tobgye, Dorji.

• rainy weather. There are scattered houses all up the Tang Chu

• valley. Fuel water abundant.

We were both genuinely sorry to leave Bumthang, not because we were leaving the place, but because we were leaving good friends. H.H. is still a little nervous & awkward, & difficult to talk to, but he was kindness itself to us. He has taken a great deal of trouble in seeing about our arrangements East of Bumthang. Although he has not definitely asked us to return, he has repeatedly said that if Bailey should come again, we must come with him. The ladies were very kind, especially Ashe Paldon, who heaped gifts on us, & made us promise to write to her if we had any kind of trouble at all. On our last night in Bumthang Mrs W. dressed up as a Bhutanese lady, & induced the Maharani to get into her clothes. She looked very well, & I think rather fancied herself. I also dressed in Tobgye's clothes, while Ludlow put on one of the Sikkim chaprassis' clothes. I have seldom seen such a funny sight as he looked. We had a very cheery evening with it all. Leaving took some time. We had received so many gifts from H.H. & the ladies,

• SUMMARY:
  The party took group photographs in Sikkim clothes, then visited the Dzong for tea and saffron rice with H.H., following a pleasant lunch the previous day. After farewell exchanges and gifts from Ashe Paldan Wangmo and Ashe Wangmo, they departed, with Tobgye and Dorji accompanying them over the river toward the Bada La.

CONTENT:
44

that it took some hours to pack them up into two pony loads.

B. 20. Ludlow

• We breakfasted at 8.30 then had to have a lot of groups
  dressed in Sikkim
• photographed before we could get away from camp. Tobgye and
  chaprasis clothes.
• Dorji then came into us to the Dzong, where we spent some
  Group: F.W. H.W.
• time with H.H. having a talk and the usual tea and saffron rice.
  Ludlow. G.S. Tenzing
• We had had a pleasant lunch by ourselves with him the day
  Tobgye, Dorji at
• before, and both interviews were extremely pleasant and easy. He
  Bumthang.
• had a photo group taken as we left, and then we went on half
  a mile with the ladies. They provided chang for us, and when we
  finally exchanged scarves and said goodbye, they each gave us more
  presents — H.H. gave each of us a small ivory and silver bowl, Ashe Paldan Wangmo
  a dagger, Ashe Wangmo a purse and a silk workbasket. We left in
  the approved way, wolf calling till we were out of sight, waving our
  silk scarves. I was sorry to say goodbye, as they were a most
  kind hearted trio, and we had great fun with them. Tobgye and Dorji came
  on with us over the river and up to the Bada La, where we found
  a fine tiffin of

SUMMARY:
The entry describes a steep descent from the Donga La, crossing the Lichi Chu and reaching the clearing at Sana, with notes on pine–fir forest and abundant fuel and water. Blood pheasants were encountered near the pass and two females collected, but mist obscured wider views. Letters and provisions arrived from Tobgye, Dorji, the Maharaja and Maharani, with H.H. apologizing for arrangements at Pinia; bamboo shelters for the men are noted at several camps.

CONTENT:
large number of Blood Pheasant

the descent is easy at first, becoming steeper to m. 10, where the path leaves the forest & emerges on to meadow land. After a steep descent over grassy hillside for ½ mile, it re-enters the forest & descends steeply to m. 11, where the LICHI CHU (map Tongdala Chu) is crossed by a bridge. A further easy descent of a mile over a muddy path, & SANA, a clearing in the jungle, is reached at m. 12½. Fuel & water ample, no leeches. The forest here is mainly pine & fir. // A good day. The road was pretty awful to the top of the pass, near which we were lucky to find blood pheasant, & to get two females, which have never been collected before. From the top of the pass we should have

B. 23.
Panorama from the Donga La to North west & North, with cloudy valleys.

had a magnificent view, but as we got there the mist came down, & only allowed us glimpses of the cloud-filled valleys on all sides. Sana is delightful & we should like to stay here a day or two, but must get on & let our coolies return to Lingitse. Last night letters arrived from Tobgye, Dorji, the Maharaja & Maharani. Each sent presents - ham, sausages, bread, cakes, vegetables & fruit, & with them came a welcome mail. H.H. apologized for bad arrangements at Pinia, the only place a campsite was not prepared & shelters built for the coolies & our men. Here, as at Donga, Pinia, Lhuentse, Shakhang, we have had good bamboo shelters for the men. They are quickly

SUMMARY:
Halted in Bumthang, the diarist visited H.H., discussed plans regarding Paro and Chamurchi, local administrative matters including Tashi Drunyer, received reports from Lhasa about Kapsinpa Shape’s imprisonment, and noted heavy rain damage near Chenderi and the Ha–Chamurchi road area; Betty was expected in London, and Dorji was treated with penicillin and M&B 760. On 5th September they marched in rain to Shabjetang and observed a new Codonopsis common near the Dhur river, collecting tubers and another pressing.

CONTENT:
3rd & 4th Sept. Halt Bumthang. I went to H.H. each day, had 3 hours alone the first day and a short visit, when Choden was present, the second day. H.H. was very easy to talk to and had much more to say. He is worried about Paro and the poor servants who are there running the place—or failing to. He will go there himself in a month or two's time. Then on to Chamurchi for a month or more. I tried to get him to say he would go on to Kalimpong, but I don't think he will. He talks now of doing many things for the locals, and probably will. I just hope they will be practical and not overdone. I asked him not to spoil Tashi Drunyer by letting him do nothing and have a dozen servants or so, but to give him a definite job of work. I wonder if he will. Tashi will be left in Bumthang though, with his brother, when H.H. goes to Paro. Two of Purbo Wangdi's servants returned from Lhasa yesterday. They described Kapsinpa Shape as being very securely imprisoned, with iron manacles on wrists and legs and a cangue round his neck, and shut up in a closely walled-in room, from which there is no normal exit. More reports of road damage come in from near Chenderi and more extensive from the Ha-Chamurchi road area. The rain must certainly have been very, very heavy these last 15 days or so. Betty should have reached London on the 3rd, all being well. I continued to give Dorji penicillin injections, 100,000 units at a time till I had given 10 injections. Then I gave him a course of M&B 760. He is very much better and should manage to reach Ludlow all right.

5th September Shabjetang. Rain almost all day. Left at 6:30 and in at 10:00. Nothing of interest, except that the new Codonopsis (Convolvulaceae 19674) is common from the mouth of the Dhur river, for quite a long way up this valley. We took 14 tubers and another pressing. There is a...

SUMMARY:
Notes describe permission for six weeks and lively festivities in Bumthang at H.H.'s residence, including archery, races, and a bull fight, with named dignitaries present. Photo and route notes mention a tame bear, Ludlow as Lepcha Chaprassi, and the 18 July journey from Bumdangtang past Byaka Dzong and Bada La to Thang Naru via Gemishong and the Tang Chu; one item was sent to Srinagar on 02/11/1933.

CONTENT:
421

He made no bones about it, & gave us permission for six weeks where we liked. We could have had more had we asked for it.

19.B.
All taken in Bumthang or at H.H.'s residence. A tame bear. Bull fight: bulls are cross between mithun & local cow.
No 19 sent Bumthang 20/7
Sent Srinagar 2.11.33

17th July. Bumthang.
The last few days have all been busy ones, though we have had no work in the way of collecting. There have been archery contests, dinners, lunches, & yesterday a grand show at H.H.'s place up the valley. First football, then lunch, then races, mounted musical chairs, wrestling, & finish up with a bull fight. The bulls are magnificent beasts, crosses by Mithun wild bulls & local cows. They would fetch a high price at home, I'm sure. At all these shows H.H. & the Maharani are present, besides the two brothers Naku & Dorji, & the sister Ashe Wangmo & half sister Ashe Paldan. Their names are: H.H. Sir Jigme Wangchuk K.C.I.E., H.H. Tasho Gurme Dorji, Tasho Lhundup Dorji (Naku), Ashe Paldan & Ashe Wangmo.

20. B.
    Ludlow as Lepcha Chaprassi. Group on leaving Bumthang. Maharani, Ashe Wangmo, Ashe Paldan, Dorji;

18th July. (Bumdangtang) THANG NARU. 9400'. 15 miles.
Route lies past Byaka Dzong, crossing main river over good bridge at m.1. Thence steep ascent to Bada La m 3 1/2. Descent easier on W side to m 6. From here route crosses a series of ridges till m 12, beyond the eastern ridge, the village of GEMISHONG is passed. Route descends narrow muddy path to the TANG CHU which is crossed by a bridge at