Transcript of Rock’s Diary, Vol. 4, 1925
Transcript has been prepared for Rock and includes the corrections made in his annotated copy and although space has been left for him to add Chinese characters, this was not done.
George Don's day book records the orders for plants coming into his Botanic garden and Nursery at Doo Hillock / Dove Hillock in Forfar.
Balfour, Sir Isaac BayleySUMMARY:
The diary records paying for pony transport and arranging routes via the Jelep La and Nathu La, with generous provisions from Rani Chuni and many loads of plants and seeds despite Betty having broken her arm. On 30 Oct at Damthang, coolies and transport are disorganized and late; on 31 Oct at Sharithang, rain and sleet continue with snow above 11,000 ft.
CONTENT:
four collectors. They will have to change transport at Rinchenpong. We have paid them at Rs 9/- per pony. Ludlow had 5 1/2 loads and Hicks at 10 1/2. I also paid Tsangpon at the rate of Rs 10/- per pony to Kalimpong - Rs 105/- - that being about half what we expect the cost to be. They will all go the Jelep La route, while we will go by the Nathu La. As usual we have been very well looked after here. Rani Chuni has been pouring things over to us, butter, cider, eggs, meat, even whisky. We can't stop her, and we'll be lucky to get off with just the number of transport ordered. With us we have 8 pony loads and 3 coolies with live plants. That can't all fit into a jeep and trailer, and we will certainly have to use some other form of transport to get the rest through. And so we end what has been a very successful trip for us all, with the one exception of Betty breaking her arm. Ludlow certainly has the best collection, but we all have lots of good stuff, and seeds should prove interesting, and also the rooted plants, of which we have brought more than ever before. We have 3 big baskets - each a man's load - each having 3 tiers of plants in them.
30th Oct. Damthang. Raining in the morning, off soon in the day. Coolies and transport very sad indeed. They do just as they like, and even by 4.0 pm several are not in after an 8 mile march. What is worse, is that we saw some of the boxes which were yesterday passing the bungalow this evening. In fact they never went yesterday at all. These people are very difficult now. There is no authority, no discipline.
31st Oct. Sharithang. Rain and sleet fell all evening and night, there was quite a bit of snow on the road today from about 11000 ft up to the top.
SUMMARY:
Notes transport rates for donkeys, ponies, and coolies on the route Tsetang–Rong–Lhagyari–Lhapso–Lenda–Tromda. Records seeds collected on Potrang La with several taxa and an elevation noted.
CONTENT:
9
Rates
Tsetang to Rong. 3 sangs a donkey. 7 a pony.
Rong to Lhagyari. 2 " " 4 "
Lhagyari to Lhapso. 1 1/2 " " 3 "
Lhapso to Lenda. 1 " " 2 "
Lenda to Tromda 1 " " 2 " & 1/2 sang per coolie
Seed collected on Potrang La.
12002 Rhod sp.
12001 Salix sp. No Herb. spec.
12003 P. florindae - - -
Gent. sp. - - -
Allium sp. - - -
Potentilla aff curviseta.
Androsace cushion plant.
P. sikkimensis 16000'.
SUMMARY:
Notes on difficult porters at Sakden, a visit from a Maharaja-affiliated veterinary doctor, and arrival at Trashigang with mail. Plant collections are recorded from Rungzyung, Samri Chu, and the Trimo sector, and local intrigues are mentioned including a Dzongpen’s servant running off to Bumthang.
CONTENT:
He had to spend the night at Tahliti, while A. Sherriff got on here by himself, which was good work. The whole of Sakden was drunk, and just refused to carry loads, worse than Tawang or Muktur. A veterinary doc. arrived in camp, one of the Maharaja's educated men. He was quite amusing and entertaining. I rather sympathise with him - as he says what is the good of all his education - he gets no pay, is not allowed to take in the Statesman and has no vet. work to do. It is rather a problem, whether to educate any of these people. I would say definitely no, unless there is plenty of work for them to do. It feels very hot indeed down here. I had a bath - much needed - on arrival. Tomorrow we look forward to getting a mail at Trashigang. From Rungzyung, Samri Chu - Primula ceresoides 2865, Luculia gratissima 2867.
17th Nov. Trashigang 8 m.? Fine but cloudy, pretty hot till we reached here where there is always a wind. Found two mail here. From Trimo sector Rh. tsariense 2894, R. wallichii 2895, Rh. baileyi 2896. Rh. arboreum 2893.
18th Nov. Halt. From Trimo sector Rh. pendulum 2898.
19th Nov. Halt. It seems that all is not too well here, and I have just been given an account of various intrigues going on. One of the Dzongpen's servants ran off to Bumthang about
SUMMARY:
The author reports that missing mail appears irretrievable after a visit from the cheerful Dzongpon, and notes differing beliefs among companions about a mantra causing a Tibetan companion’s illness. On 15 October they travel to Rungzyung in persistent rain, carrying the ailing Tibetan by stretcher, while also listing several collected plants.
CONTENT:
lost mail is not to be found. I'm afraid it must be regarded as a complete loss, not to be traced anywhere. The Dzongpon was very cheerful and kind, though he took up a lot of our time, when we wanted to read our mail soon. But he's a good soul. The poor Tibetan is in a bad way again. He has quite recovered from the original abscess in the shoulder, but now has an even worse one near the artery in the thigh. We will carry him by stretcher with us and hope the thing will come to a head soon. Poor man he has had a rotten time. He says, as usual, that someone has put a mantra on him and is rather fatalistic. Purbo & Co rather favour that idea. They all believe in it, even Pinto, educated though he is.
Trashigang
Strobilanthes glutinosus 1061
Leptodermis 1062
" steppiana 1063
Oxyspora paniculata 1064
Daphne Shillong 1065
15th October. To RUNGZYUNG. 8 m. 4050'. Rained all day. The foul weather has again come just as we start up to a collecting area, as usual. Carried the Tibetan on a stretcher, much to the locals' astonishment. His new abscess will I think come to a head tomorrow evening. It's pretty bad now. The air is simply soaking wet here - all day, in or out
SUMMARY:
Notes describe an old dzong near a suspension bridge with traces of fortifications, said to be the oldest after Paro’s destruction, with the dzongpen planning repairs. The party marches to Rungzyung along the left bank of the Gamri Chu through hot conditions, noting conifer woodland, multiple bridges, and some rice cultivation.
CONTENT:
flowing stream about the same size as the Kuru Chu, which it joins and forms the Manas R. Below the dzong is a big suspension bridge which is said to be extremely old, which is suspended by an old iron link chain, which is occasionally locally repaired. There are signs of old fortifications on the right bank beside the bridge. This dzong with Paro was supposed to be the oldest in the country, and now that Paro has been burnt, this must be the oldest. It is only a part of its former size. The dzongpen hopes to enlarge or renew it next year. A strong wind blows up the main valley all day, and Trashigong is much cooler than its height would lead one to expect.
To 30th June. RUNGZYUNG. 8 miles. (B.P. 205.1" = 3625' Temp. 85°.)
Left at 6.0, in at 11.0. Very hot indeed. Road leaves the dzong and drops at first steeply, then easily to the bridge over the GAMRI CHU, a large river coming in from the East. This is not crossed, but the left bank followed up by a good, well graded path, over open hillside sparsely wooded with Pinus longifolia and occasional patches of thick jungle. Two side river valleys are crossed by bridges. There is a good bridge over the Gamri Chu at Rungzyung, and some rice cultivation. We did
SUMMARY:
Notes places linked to Guru Rimpoche near Chunhara and records several flowering plants; camera shutter failed during three colour photos. On 13 October the party travelled to Trashigong Dzong via the Gamri Chu and Chahzam Bridge; film was sent to Kodak, and on 14 October they halted at Trashigong to pack specimens and prepare mail, with no word from Tobgye.
CONTENT:
Guru dapon Rimpoche
to be. Many signs of Guru Rimpoche's passing are evident: holes in rocks are his "horse's footmarks"; a large hollowed out waterfall place in a rock is where he sat for three years. Chunhara is where he rested so soon. Found some interesting flowers, including a most beautiful, sweet-scented jasmine-like shrub. Took three colour photos, & all three were blank. For the first time my camera shutter has let me down — most annoying as I only have 5 films left. Temperature 90° in my tent this afternoon.
Jasminum officinale 1058
Luculia gratissima 1059
Desmodium oblongum 1057
Bauhinia purpurea 1055
13th October. TO TRASHIGONG DZONG. 7 miles Ht. 3966'. Path keeps level along the R bank of the river, close to it, never high above it. The Gamri Chu enters from the E at m 4 & the Chahzam Bridge, immediately below the Dzong is reached at m 5. From here up to the Dzong is a very steep climb of 1500 ft or so. The bridge is a suspension one, very old indeed, but still with the original iron links locally made. It is kept in good repair. It acts as a customs house for Tibetan traders.
One film 13c
Contax II
sent Kodak
15/10/34.
14th October. Halt Trashigong. Spent the day packing up flowers & birds & getting the mail ready for tomorrow. Yesterday a good mail was waiting for us when we got here. No word from Tobgye though. Our
SUMMARY:
The party reached Trashigong on 29 June and proceeded east up the Gamri Chu valley to Sakteng, arriving in four stages by July 3rd. Most members, except Sherriff, the interpreter, the cook, and the diarist, fell ill with malaria; after taking quinine for about ten days they recovered enough to continue.
CONTENT:
His. 14. We reached Trashigong on 29 June & found ourselves in a dry part of the Manas Valley very much like that of the Mo Chu at Wangdi Phodrang. From Trashigong we branched off eastwards up the unexplored Gamri Chu valley to Sakteng, which we reached in 4 stages (July 3rd). Here a calamity befell us which appeared at one time as if it would wreck our plans. This was malaria. With the exception of Sherriff, our interpreter, the cook, and myself, the remainder of the party collapsed with malaria. We flew to the quinine bottle, and after about 10 days were sufficiently recovered to continue our journey.
SUMMARY:
Kuship and Damong rejoined the party; Damong reported seed collections from the Mela and brought two gentians (Nos. 1001, 1002). The diarist treated a wounded Tibetan while moving him toward Sana hut, stayed in the Dzong, paid coolies, and noted rain overnight and fleas despite the building being relatively new.
CONTENT:
103
both met us on the way, both looking very fit. Kuship has had no fever. Damong got a good number of seeds at the Mela, and had awful weather all the time he was away. He says he sent a man up to Chukas for the seed bagged there. We stay in the Dzong - a new part of it - which saves a bit for the next march. Coolies came up in numbers this morning. When they took us up, I gave 3 tankhas and 1 extra between each two. This they thought was too good, and boys ran away from their houses, where they should be watching the makki to come up and earn as much again. The Tibetan went down yesterday evening to Sana hut and I visited him there and dressed his wound. He went on early this morning and we dressed him again half way. He walked what he could - short stretches of 200 yards here and there, and was carried the rest, about 10 miles I suppose. He progresses well. Damong brought down two good gentians in flower - Nos. 1001 and 1002 - which I photographed here.
(Gentiana amoena 1001 "silvostriata" 1002)
10th October. Halted Trashiyangsi. Rained all night, cleared up by 8.0 and was fine all day. We both spent a pretty miserable night last night. Although pretty new, this part of the Dzong has been occupied long enough for it to be well stocked with fleas. I have never