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SUMMARY:
Notes on Primula observations, heavy rain, and challenging flower photography with exposure details. On 10th July at Sahden, the diarist went with Danang to the Orka La on the Dirang Dzong road, took compass bearings, and described fine morning conditions.

CONTENT:
19

Primula found on the Me La last year, and seen at Narim Thang at 15,000'. Left at 6:00 am and hurrying, reached the pass at 9:30. Rain came on at 9:00 and it rained on and off all the time. Home again at 3:00 pm in heavy rain which continued all evening. Took 2 photos, 632 (P. stolonifera) and 634 (Ph. elegantula), at 4:00 pm in very heavy rain, clouds low down. Exposures were f/16 and 4 1/2 minutes, a little underexposed: f/11 and 2' 40" slightly under. Colour photography of flowers under such circumstances is no easy job. A large paulin is hung over me while I arrange focus. Then exposure made with an umbrella over the camera, held high. Servants all better, but Ramzana very weak and unable to leave on 10th.

10th July. Sahden. Started at 4:30 am and went up with Danang to the Orka La on the Dirang Dzong road. Reached the pass at 8:30 and stayed there till 10. Walked down very quickly in two hours. I took a bearing from Sahden to the ridge along which the path runs, and found it 88° Mag. Another bearing up the first river on the left bank of the Gamri Chu, gave 115°. A back bearing to Sahden from the Orka La gave approx 290°. Sahden itself was not visible. This was a lovely morning, and it

SUMMARY:
Halted at Sahden in perfectly settled weather with plans for Nyit-sang La; Ludlow obtained a Tree Creeper. Two men returned from Tsona after six days, having taken a chair to Ragasha Kusho (absent to Lhasa); the Tsona Jongpen sent back Paraquilegia seed bags mixed with Meconopsis horridula pods, and the previously missing mail—found with the Tsona Jongpen—was recovered, while Damong mishandled arrangements for the man from Chukar.

CONTENT:
117

go far, but want one more day for the Nyit-sang La, which I last went to on a cloudy day. Weather absolutely settled at last, no fear of more than showers in future.

24th October. Halt Sahden. [Ludlow gets a Tree Creeper] Another perfect day, the best we have ever had, but unfortunately I did not go up a pass. There was not a cloud to be seen all day. In the evening the two men sent to Tsona came back.

[26th men back] They took six days for the 108 miles or so - pretty good over the passes they had to cross. They took the chair to Ragasha Kusho, but he had been called to Lhasa. I think the other Jongpen was surprised that we did what we said we would. He sent back the seed bags of Paraquilegia, but mixed up with mec. horridula pods. There are very few seeds indeed, I'm afraid, but it can't be helped. There now remains only the man from Chukar. Damong made rather a mess of the arrangements about him. When the Tsona people were talking to me I noticed a bag lying on the floor. This was the missing mail, found with the Tsona Jongpen after all. He had kept it, not knowing where we were, & expecting us to send for it from Sahden. Everything in it was in good condition, letters etc. all dry. The night temp.

SUMMARY:
At Sakden on 27 July, many of the Kashmiris were down with fever, with Ramzana particularly ill, which delayed progress but enabled exploration of two high areas. The writer ascended to Nyuksang La on the route to Mera, describing shepherding, buckwheat cultivation, and the route via the Gamri Chu with changing vegetation from broadleaf and fir to rhododendron.

CONTENT:
17

wrestling in Bhutanese style. All the people here are shepherds. They grow their crops on the steep hillside - as far as I can see only buckwheat.

27th July. SAKDEN. All our Kashmiris have been down
Buddleia colvilei 614
Lil. nanum 615
Rhod. campanulatum 616, 619, 622, 624,
Mec. horridula 623
with fever. Ramzana has been bad. This prevented us from getting on, but on the other hand it has helped, as we have been able to explore two small areas at a good height. I have been up to the Nyuksang La (estimated 12500-13000') on the route to Mera. Mera is where most of the yaks & sheep are kept. They return to Sakden in the winter. From Sakden the road leads across the Gamri Chu, up a small saddle & steeply down 800 ft - to the South. A branch of the Gamri Chu is met there & followed up for 1 1/2 miles, then crossed & a steep ascent made S.W. to the Nyuksang La. When this ascent begins, the jungle is mostly broad leaf trees, with some fir & quite a number of larch. Then fir predominates, & after passing a "basti" rhododendron takes the place of fir, till the top is reached when there is

SUMMARY:
Notes on Primula and Meconopsis around Nyuksan/Nyaksung La, with messengers from Tawang and plans to go to Mago on 10 July. On 8 July at Sakden, the writer went with Danuong and a Kazi’s servant to Nyaksung La on the Mera road to bag specified Primula and Meconopsis numbers and pot seedlings, noting a scarce primula beneath overhanging rocks.

CONTENT:
18

Nyuksan La
Primula gambeliana (608), top, on the left under rhododendrons. A magnificent Meconopsis is also just below the basti, with Primula No 598 (P. waltonii). Its no. is 600 (Meconopsis grandis). There is also an interesting Primula (612) (P. strumosa), yellow, beneath the firs & rhododendrons short of the top. Danuong went up to a similar height on the Dirang Dzong road, & got very similar flowers. Messengers have come from Tawang, & all seems set for the next move to Mago, where we hope to go on the 10th July.

Nyaksung La
8th July SAKDEN. Went with Danuong again to NYAKSUNG LA, on the Mera road. Took one of the Kazi's servants, & put bags on the following: 598 Primula (P. waltonii) 6 Bags; 600 Meconopsis (Meconopsis grandis) 4 bags; 608 Primula (P. gambeliana) 5 bags; & 612 Primula (P. strumosa) 5 bags. This man is to return in the Bhutanese 8th month to collect the bags.

Megacodon stylophorus 633
Primula elongatoides 634
Primula bellidifolia 635

I have also potted the following seedlings: 598 (P. waltonii) - 4; 608 (P. gambeliana) - 4; 632 (P. strumosa) - 1; 635 (P. bellidifolia) - 1. The latter is an unknown Primula very like P. eburnea & growing in the same situation, under overhanging rocks. It was at the foot of the high cliff 500x short of the Nyaksung La on the Mera road, on the East side of the Pass & to the North of the road. The cliff is 200x away from the road. Only 5 specimens were seen, & all had last year's seed pods intact. These were collected. No more new flowers were seen. No 632 (P. strumosa) is a small

SUMMARY:
The diarist halts at Sakden and ascends toward the Nyuksang La, but cloud prevents views of northern snow peaks; the pass height is recorded. Gentiana amoena is abundant on the Meha and some Primula seed is collected, though many bagged specimens were eaten by sheep or yaks. The Kazi has tended the potted plants, most of which have survived.

CONTENT:
113

[Marginal note: Ludlow p. 149. The Nyuksang La is just a subsidiary pass leading from the Sakden valley into the Mera valley, the latter river emptying into the Gamri Chu above Phongme.]

...of the Meconopsis grandis, a wine-red Primula and perhaps the yellow one too, but I doubt about the blue one. The bags on the latter were all eaten by yaks. The Kazi has looked after the potted plants well enough, and all but two (a saxifrage) are alive.

20th October Halt Sakden. Another grand day, though there were clouds away to the North even early in the morning. I left Sakden at 5.20 and went up to the Nyuksang La. Left the ponies at the hut, and walked up to the North to a peak. But the clouds covered all the view of the snow hills to the north. Although it was very pretty, there was no chance of getting any bearings or even a useful photo. Then walked along the tops to the Nyuksang La, where I took the height (B.P. 187.7 Temp. 55° = Ht. 13766').

[Marginal note: Gentiana amoena 1001]
There were masses of that lovely Gentiana amoena found on the Meha (1001). The locals eat this, either when in flower or dead: it is cooked in ghee and said to be very 'sweet'. I tried to collect seeds up there and found some of Primula No. 602.

[Marginal note: Primula glabra 602]
[Note above text: Primula gambeliana]
The other one 608 (or 611) I could not find. The Kazi did not find the bagged specimens either. All have been eaten by sheep or yaks.

[Note above text: Primula strumosa]
No. 612 could not be found either. It had also been completely cleared by animals, but I have three bags of...

SUMMARY:
The party reaches Sakden near the Gamri Chu, noting ample water, fuel, grazing, and a nearby gompa with a Tawang lama. On 5th July they halt at Sakden, finding few flowers in bloom, observing local clothing and village life, and practicing rifle shooting with the Jongpen and his men.

CONTENT:
than to Bhutanese. Over the pass the path drops easily to Sakden near the Gamri Chu. Water & fuel ample, excellent grazing & many sheep & yaks. Some barley available. There is a gompa with a Tawang lama above Sakden. //

5th July. SAKDEN. Halted. This place has been rather a disappointment. It was so nice to get out of the hot steaming valleys down below that we thought this would be a fine place. But there are no flowers out now. All are over. We have seen traces of one primula, but that is all. Birds too are not so interesting as they might be. The people are pleasant, happy, shy & full of life. They must lead a hard & difficult life at times, but are none the worse of that. This is the only place where I have seen villages in Bhutan, Sakden consisting of 60-70 houses all together. The Takpas & Drugpas wear thick woollen clothes, black or red, & have these funny little 'seats' made of thick felt, which hang down behind, & are used for sitting on. A most excellent idea in a wet climate. They also have Inverness cloaks, exactly as at home - another useful garment. We have had some rifle practice with the Jongpen & his men, followed by games &

[Margin notes]
6th June
Sakden.
Rhod. Thomsoni 595
Prim. strumosa 597
" Waltoni 598
" Sikkimensis 599
" Glabra 602
" Gambelliana 608
" Involucrata 610
" Gambelliana 611
" Strumosa 612
Mec. grandis 609
Rhod. campanulatum 605
" wightii 606
Berberis lichiangensis var. sakdenensis 604

• But see June 6th! p. 20

SUMMARY:
Notes plant damage by yaks, collects seed packets of Meconopsis grandis and Primula waltoni, and takes a colour photo of a gentian beside red Berberis. On a halt at Sakden, Ludlow packs birds while the diarist dries and labels seeds; staff health issues are noted for Pintso and Kuntip, and plans are made to look for Rhododendron rhabdotum seedlings near Muktur. Weather is frosty at night with bright sun and wind during the day.

CONTENT:
114

seeds. The yaks have done a lot of damage to all flowers, as I found lower down where the Meconopsis grandis (600) & red Primula waltoni 598 were in such profusion before. All had been trampled down or eaten; with difficulty I collected a packet of each. A perfect evening: we were out from 5:20 am till 3:30 pm. Took one coloured photo of Gentian 1001 growing beside a lovely piece of Berberis which was bright red (603).

21st October. Halt Sakden. Another perfect day. It is not often we don't go out on a day like this. But we have had a day in camp, Ludlow packing birds etc., I drying & labelling seeds. Both of us also bathing, shaving, hair cuts. Pintso seemed a bit off colour yesterday, & Kuntip's feet are so sore he finds difficulty in walking. He says the frost has got into the cracks; it might easily, his feet are cracked all over. This is a most delightful spot in weather like this. We have frost every night & bright sun & a wind all day. Temp. inside at night +3 ft. = 33°. On the way up to Sakden we looked for Rh. rhabdotum seedlings & I think found three or four. Danong will also look for them near Muktur.

22nd October. Halt Sakden. The good days are gradually

[Marginal notes:]
Mec. grandis 600
Prim. waltoni 598
Gen. amoena 1001
Berberis ludlowii var. sakdenensis 604
Contax No 12 finished on Nyaksang & last photo of Sakden.
Rhod. rhabdotum

SUMMARY:
At Sakden, the page lists several Rhododendron species and describes passing through cultivated areas to scattered houses inhabited by Takpas, a Tibetan-origin group who wear animal skins and use a small round cushion for sitting.

CONTENT:
Sakden
Rhododendron arboreum 586
" keysii 586
" camelliiflorum 587
" micromeres 590
" thomsonii

We passed through cultivation to a number of scattered
houses inhabited by Takpas, a curious race of Tibetan
Ludlow 76-77 origin who wear skins of goats & wild animals, chiefly
deer skins, hanging from their rump, a round
cushion about 6" in diam. which they use for sitting on.

SUMMARY:
After descending in snowy conditions, the writer reached Sakden and collected Gentiana amoena and other material, preparing seeds to send via Trashigong. The following day they halted at Sakden to process seeds and flowers; Lumsden treated patients and cut the writer’s hair, while Ludlow improved the camp with a fireplace in the dining room amid cold nighttime temperatures.

CONTENT:
Sakden 13th March.
Prim. white 1215. P. gracilipes 1216

... in flower down to about 12,500, when it gave out, was replaced by 1166 again. I collected a bit of ground which had a lot of Gentiana amoena on it. No seeds were left in the capsules, but they must be in the ground with the living sprouting roots. I will send them by air if the post leaves Trashigong on our arrival there. I have put it in a tin with a hundred or more holes. Similarly I have tinned some of 1166. There was a lot of snow on the way down. I reached Sakden at 2:00 pm, to find Ludlow and Lumsden very fit. Ludlow had some food birds again, and flowers much the same as I collected.

14th March. Halted Sakden. I only went out for three or four hours this morning, and have been doing up seeds and flowers since. Lumsden has been very busy with patients. However he helped to cut my hair with clippers, and made a good job of his first effort. Here there is the usual village built for us, but Ludlow has added a fireplace in the dining room. It is very fine and a great boon. It is cold at night here. The temp. inside my room 3 ft from the ground was 23° last night. The days are

[Margin notes: Gentiana amoena, Sakden, Juniperus recurva, Tsuga dumosa 1180, Rhod. cavaleriei-florum 1181 1183, Rhod. arboreum 1182]

SUMMARY:
Notes describe Sakden as excellent for birds and plants; the party returned in autumn to collect seeds and study the avifauna, obtaining a new Fulvetta. Species observations include Fulvetta ludlowi common in bamboo and rhododendron forest on the extreme eastern frontier of Bhutan, and finding Tragopan satyra instead of T. b. molesworthi in dense rhododendron within silver fir forest.

CONTENT:
2453 ♂ Cyornis melanoleuca ?
2454 ♀ - " -
2455 ♀ Oriolus traillii
2456 ♂ Niltava s. sundara.
2457 ♀ Grammatoptila s. striata.
2458 ♂ - " -

Sakden
Ibis. 15. We found Sakden excellent for birds & plants & we returned to it in the autumn to collect seeds & study its avifauna more closely. We obtained here a new Fulvetta.

Ibis. 38. Fulvetta ludlowi - quite common in bamboo & rhododendron forest on the extreme eastern frontier of Bhutan between 7500 & 11000 ft. see Ibis 38
rather intensely open sub-alpine

Ibis 44 Pteruthius xanthochloris xanthochloris - Green Shrike Babbler
Ibis 278 Prunella immaculata rare. very tame in conifer forest. - Maroon Backed Accentor
Ibis 291 Homochlamys major Bush Warbler - see Ibis 291

We expected to find Tragopan b. molesworthi here, as we were so close to the supposed type locality, but all the birds we saw were T. satyra - Tragopan
dense rhodo jungle in silver fir forest is its favourite habitat - very plentiful in Bhutan