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SUMMARY:
Diary entries record travel from Tsetang through Rong Dzong, Lhagyari, Lasor and Lhapso to Lenda, with delays due to slow transport and negotiations over animal hire rates. Notes include hospitality from local officials and the Jetsung Kusho’s sister, and botanical observations of Gentiana waltonii and Androsace with seed collected.

CONTENT:
15th Nov. Rong Dzong. Left Tsetang camp at 9.20 & Tsetang at 10.0. In at 4.0 pm. Last kit, on bullocks, in at 6.0 pm. A fine still day. We had long arguments about passports with the Tsetang Dzongpon's scribe - a nasty man. At last he let us go when we paid sangs 3 per donkey & 7 per pony. This was at any rate very much better than our passport rate of 6 & 12.

16th Nov. Lhagyari Dz. Left at 9.0 am: in at 5.0 pm. Only half the kit got in last night. Remainder is not even all in at 10.0 this morning. The distance, given by Bailey at 16 miles, seems much nearer 20 miles. We all agree on this. I suggested we pay 2 sangs per donkey & 4 per pony at Rong. This was cheerfully agreed to by the headmen & Dzongpon's "trap". As a result of the slow transport, we cannot leave here on 17th. Coming up the valley there was a good deal of G. Waltoni & two sp. of Androsace, seed of one of which I took. The Jetsung Kusho here has gone to Lhasa, but her sister is very good to us, & has produced all we need for dinner, including food, plates etc., as our kitchen stuff had not come in.

17th & 18th Nov. HALT. We were unable to get transport in time to leave even on 18th, but most of the kit went then to a village 3 miles short of the Potrang La.

19th Nov. Lasor. Left at 7.30: in at 5.0 pm. Kit which left with us got in at 9.0 pm.

20th Nov. Lhapso Dz. An easy day of only 7 miles. Cloud came up by midday & it was dull the rest of the day. The Lhapso Dzongpon was very good to us. He had been personally to Lasor the day before & produced everything we wanted.

21st Nov. Lenda. Left at 7.50: in at 2.45: transport 3.30 to 4.0 pm. Coolies & transport were very good though hardly halted anywhere. The Lhapso Dzongpon arrangements were very good indeed.

SUMMARY:
Notes transport rates for donkeys and ponies from Lenda to Tromda and the route Tromda to Nang. Records minimum temperatures for 23–26 Nov and lists grain costs for ponies at Lenda and Tromda.

CONTENT:
11

Rates: Lenda to Tromda 1 sang per donkey 2 per pony.
Tromda - Nang

Min. Temperatures. 23 - 24th Nov 20° F. unscreened, but shaded
24 - 25 Nov 20° F.
25 - 26 Nov 20½° F.

Cost of grain for ponies. 10 sangs per bo at Lenda
14 sangs per bo at Tromda

SUMMARY:
The diary records a march from Rapdang to Tromda, followed by several halt days due to missing transport and delays, during which repairs were made and a cold bath taken in the Tsangpo. Samduprup was sent to Guru Namgyel Dz. and returned with orders to wait three days, and the Dzongpon’s envoy asked for the lamyig. A report is noted about an earlier plane crash near Langong (Langong Phu Chu), including details of four deceased men and insignia on the aircraft.

CONTENT:
22nd Nov. Rapdang. Left at 0800: in at 2.0. Kit in at 2.30 till 6.0pm: some did not come in at all this evening. We paid for transport before leaving, which we have not had to do since Rong. The other method is much nicer.

23rd Nov. Tromda. A very short march of 7 miles only. We were in at 10.0 to find no 'dayig' had come. It was produced to us by a Tibetan who said he had found it on the road. So we know we will have a delay here. Some coolies still have not caught up since yesterday. We sent Samduprup to Guru Namgyel Dz. He returned late in the evening with the news that we must wait 3 whole days here for transport!

24th Nov. Halt. Tromda. Spent the day in clearing up, repairing boxes & generally getting things in order again. Also bathed in a very cold Tsangpo.

25th Nov. Halt. Again spent in repairs. The Dzongpon sent a man down to see us. He asked for the lamyig, but we managed to put him off. He was one of two who had to investigate a plane which crashed near Langong - in the 'Langong Phu Chu'. Kyindong & Guru Namgyel were ordered to look into this. The story he told us was that he went there in the 9th Tib month last year & that the plane must have crashed two years before. There were 4 men, one thought to be an officer with some rank badge on his R shoulder only. The plane had a star in blue & red on the wings. Two men were found some hundreds of yards away from the crash, two inside - one strapped to his seat. Their clothes were all rotten, so were the notes they carried, one man having a big wad of notes. The only thing...

SUMMARY:
Brief captions for Kodachrome slides note scenes at Tashi Lhunz, the 13th Dalai Lama’s birthplace, Chorten Para Gompa, a view from the top of Kongbo Ngala, and the Tsangpo between Nge and Shu, with dates in late November to early December. A note also records “Types at Shu.”

CONTENT:
13

Kodachrome 6.
Tashi Lhunz. DL's birthplace (13th). 27/11
Magpies on rock. 27/11
Chorten Para Gompa. 27/11
From top of Kongbo Ngala to E. 28/11.
Tsangpo between Nge & Shu. 30/11.
Types at Shu. 3/12.

SUMMARY:
Notes describe an aircraft wreck near the upper Langong Chu with four bodies, intact but scattered wreckage, and items such as rusted machine guns and iron hooks; the time of the crash is guessed by a Dzongpon’s man as about three years prior. Subsequent entries record a halt day with clear weather and a march to Nang Dzong, noting transport arrangements and plant observations including Box, Ceratostigma, Sophora viciifolia, and Juniper.

CONTENT:
What rotted was a 'tent' (parachute?) One man still had a little flesh on his bones, the others had all been stripped bare - presumably by animals. Mistris were sent to take the plane to bits, but they failed to do so. Only bits & pieces were collected & put under seal, as were any papers found. The plane was not burnt. The place mentioned is probably in the upper waters of the Langong Chu, about 2 full days march from Kyindong Dzong. A few rupees were found close to the wreck. Four useless (through rust) machine guns were found in the wreckage. The clothes of the 4 men are described as being winter wear & very good indeed. They wore two pairs of boots - one ordinary & one rubber on top. I was unable to make out how many engines there were. The wreckage was strewn over a biggish area. The time of the crash is only guessed by the Dzongpon's man as 3 years ago owing to the state of the bodies & of their clothes & notes. The area it fell in is a very wet one in the monsoon & things would easily rust. One of the few contents noticed was 30 things like walking sticks of iron, hooked at one end, rather longer than a walking stick, but having on the stick part a "lot of rings, some round some square & some other shapes".

26th Nov. HALT. A good day. There have been some clouds to the south the last 3-4 days, but generally very clear.

27th Nov. Nang Dzong. Left at 7.35. In at 3.20: transport in at 5.0pm. Transport about half & half coolies & pack animal, mostly pony. On the hill just before Nang, Box grows well. We collected a little seed. Ceratostigma is the dominant shrub again all the way, with Sophora viciifolia a good second. Juniper from deep to the edge of the escarp just below.

SUMMARY:
Brief note stating that Mahman goes off from 'Sun.' and that his pay is Rs 50 per month. The entry is marked cancelled and initialed S.P.

CONTENT:
15

Mahman goes off from Sun. His pay is Rs 50 pm. Cancelled / S.P.

SUMMARY:
The diary records movements from the east side of Kongbo-nga La via Mye to Shu, with delayed coolies and negotiations for transport. It notes forest and plant observations near the pass, attempts to contact Gyantse and Ford by wireless, strong winds, and halts on 1–2 Dec due to uncertain transport.

CONTENT:
Nang.

28 Nov. Camp on E side of Kongbo-nga La. Coolies had not come in by 9.0, so we set off at 10.0 with about 30-40 loads only, leaving Samdup behind. A good day but spoilt by transport trouble. Reached the pass by 2.30 & in at camp - not at Nye - at 5.0pm. Coolies came in soon after except about 15 who only turned up next day. It was good to be in forest again, pine, larch & birch on the west side, & juniper, larch & birch on the E, with pine on N faces. Rhod. vellereum common, with two small Rhodos. On the E side saw some P. jaffreyana & a lot of Androsace of 3 species.

29 Nov. Mye. A short march in today where we should have reached yesterday. Samdup also turned up by 11.0 & our kit has again caught us up. I saw two partridge on the way up the Pass. Ludlow then saw one 'Kuling' & another, while Ludlow missed a Crossoptilon on this side. This is the first village with pent wooden roofs. All to the W of this are flat roofed. The hilltops often have early morning mist on them now - a sign of a damper climate. I was surprised to see no Mec. simplicifolia on the pass - only M. horridula.

30 Nov. Shu. An easy march. We were in by 1.0 (start 8.0) & coolies were in shortly after. A few were late. I tried to contact Gyantse at 3.30 pm (BT) by W/T, but got no answer. Later tried Ford (TASA) but again got no answer. Local Dzongpon's man tried to refuse to give us anything but day to day transport. We demanded 'Dzongyel', & we think we have succeeded, at the price of 2 days halt & a than of cloth & ten cigarettes! Supplies difficult, & we have hardly managed to get anything. Very strong wind in evening.

1st Dec. Halt. Fine, but clouded by midday. Wind by 2.30.

2nd Dec. Halt. Fine & clear & windy. We doubt if our transport will come as promised, by this evening. This is a bad place to get away from - in 1938 we were held up five days at Kyimdong Dzong.

SUMMARY:
Records minimum temperatures at Shu on 2–3 December 1946. Notes Kodachrome roll 7 covering the journey from Shu to Miling from 4 to 11 December, including scenes crossing the Mayu Chu on 11 December with Gyala Peri in the background.

CONTENT:
17

Min temp. Shu. 2.12.46. 24° F. Cloudy.

• • 3.12.46. 23° F. Clear.

Kodachrome 7. Shu to Miling. 4/12 to 11/12
last scenes crossing Mayu Chu on 11/12
with Gyala Peri in background.

SUMMARY:
The diarist describes sparse official presence across Tibetan towns, then records halts and short marches with bullocks en route toward Tsela Dzong. A pony carrying Ludlow and Elliot’s bedding goes missing and is later recovered; Sandup returns to Kyindong, and difficult road conditions near Risho require manhandling loads, with mention of skin ferries.

CONTENT:
There can be no other country which runs itself like Tibet. Since we left Gangtok we have not come across many officials in their place of business. The T.T.A. Yatung is hardly ever anywhere but in Kalimpong. There was a dzongpon in Phari. There was one in Gyantse. But there were none in Nangkarbe, Pede or Gongkar. The Nethong Dzongpon was in residence, and we have seen none since then.

3rd Dec. Halt. Very windy last evening, but clear and cold at night, with not a very low temp. No one appeared this morning early, but by 11.0 some 30 bullocks had come. The men are a pleasant friendly - several having been with us before both in 1933 and 1938 in Langong or beyond Kyindong Dzong. They remember us, apparently quite happily, and they even remember Jill. They are going to Tsela Dzong with us, and we should have no trouble when once away from here. The only troublesome people are the representatives of the Dzong. The village here is very poor, but they seem friendly enough.

4th Dec. Kamchang. Bullocks got off in good time, last party leaving at 8.0. We were in at 11.30 - it is a short march. But bullocks take a very long time. One pony with Ludlow and Elliot's bedding never arrived in. Kamchang is the lower of two villages, each only with a few houses. Pollarded walnut trees are much in evidence.

5th Dec. Halt. Again had to halt, this time owing to the lost pony. It strayed up a side valley 2 miles from here. Sandup has gone back to Kyindong. Pony came in late at night - or rather the bedding was brought in - the pony had fallen and hurt itself.

6th Dec. Camp 2 m. beyond Chongrong on S. bank, left at 7.30: in with bullocks at 4.30pm. Road very bad for bullocks in 3 places, the worst being 1 1/2 m beyond Risho, where all loads had to be manhandled for 100 yds over a cliff. There are 'skin' ferries at 1 1/2 m above Risho, -

SUMMARY:
Records minimum temperatures for three December nights, with clear skies and a full moon on the 8–9 and 9–10, and cloud cover with snow on hill tops on the 10–11.

CONTENT:
15

Min. temp. 8-9 Dec. 11° F. clear, full moon.
Min. temp. 9-10 Dec. 11° F. clear, full moon.
Min. temp. 10-11 Dec. 29° F! clouded over, snow on
hill tops.