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SUMMARY:
At Haat, the author stayed near camp while Tundru and Pasang collected flowers, noting scarce seed and planning routes toward Waitang, Marlung, Chu doen, Sin La, Dhen, and an arrival at Bumthang, with shifting weather. The next day they made a long excursion from Haat; Tundru collected Allardia glabra near Tolepong Tso, and they found P. umbellata and a wine-purple Gentiana on screes, though seeds were mostly unripe.

CONTENT:
138

9th Sept. Haat. I stayed near camp today, Tundru and Pasang went off to the N.E. They got some flowers, but seed again were difficult. Seed of P. sphaerostachyum was all eaten by bugs. Also a very fine Polygonum (Polygonum griffithii 19715) had no seed - I got 14 seed out of at least 1000 flowers! I spent some time in making out dates from here to Waitang, Marlung and across to the Chu doen and the Sin La to Dhen. Our real movement will start on the 19th and we will have a very full Oct 7th when we reach Bumthang. Today was the same as the last three days - a lovely morning, and heavy rain in the afternoon. But it does not look like the monsoon rain. No doubt we'll get lots more rain, but I don't think it will be the same as before.

10th Sept. Haat. Fine all day except for a short shower at midday. This was a good day on the whole, though few seeds were got. We left at 5.30 and returned at 5.0pm. At the first drogpa above the forest there is masses of the fine Aconite found yesterday, and we should get roots of it if not seed. The two best flowers found were both high altitude ones, from about 15000' or above. Tundru got a very nice wine coloured Allardia (Allardia glabra 19716) from the left hand valley after turning R. at Tolepong Tso. I did not see this myself anywhere. We went up the right hand valley, as before, and on the same scree found a good many Sax's of course P. umbellata. This is the almost white one. Seed was not ripe, though it should be by 1 Oct. want to go again. This scree is at the right hand end of the big cliff facing one, as one leaves the Tolepong Tso. Away behind this in a cup to the right there are some more screes, and in one of them we found a fine Gentian (Gentiana amoena 19721). This is G. amoena or near it, but grows only in sand scree, which amoena doesn't. Also it is not blue, but a deep wine or wine purple, rather a nice, or more unusual

SUMMARY:
The diarist manages specimens and arranges penicillin injections for Danang in hospital, while noting a letter from Ludlow via Yundu confirming successful plant finds. Plans are made for travel to meet Ludlow at Pasu Sefu and for Pasang and Mundrup to collect primulas via Tumle La, Tongsa, Chendesi, and Ritang, with mention of a hoped-for bridge over the Tang Chu.

CONTENT:
I've a lot to do, with photos and dry flowers. Danang is here in hospital. He seems better, but I have not yet seen him. I hope he will come tomorrow, as I have asked the doctor to come too, and will start 4 hourly injections. I have only 10 doses I can give him, and hope that will do the trick. Ludlow sent a letter with Yundu, and a small press of flowers. He has found every one of the wanted plants - P. umbratilis alba, P. tsariensis, P. tsariensis alba, P. uniflora, Lychnis Wardii, P. strumosa and fine forms of Meconopsis horridula. Yundu has marked all the plants too, and I hope will be able to get them all in October. If so, that little trip will have been very worth while.

2nd September. Haat. Mostly fine in the valley, with a heavy shower or two. I got Danang along here this morning. There is no doubt he is better than he was. But I am sure that penicillin must be the thing to give him, as I have 10 injections, we have started at 12 today. He must take a chance after this, as I must go off on 5th. He and Sompoli must go off on 10th at latest to catch Ludlow at Pasu Sefu. If he can't go by then, he must join me or go back to Kalimpong by himself. The valley here is very pretty now, with the beautiful pink fields of buckwheat scattered over the valley bottom, and in places along the sides too. I don't remember noticing this so much before. HH seems to think that he will have some kind of bridge made over the Tang Chu before very long - in a month he suggests. I do hope so, as it will save us a long chukker again. I have tried to work out how long it will take Pasang and Mundrup to get the two primulas on the Tumle La, then to Tongsa and then to collect all plants from Ludlow's area. I think it will take 6 days from Chendesi to Ritang or back to Chendesi, and altogether from here 11 days, which will take 4 to Chendesi or 5 to Ritang. So if we start on 15th we will reach Ritang on 19th, and Pasang must start on 9th to reach Ritang or Chendesi on the 19th.

SUMMARY:
At Haat on 14–15 August, the party finalizes plans for Betty to fly home via Gangtok, Kalimpong, and Calcutta to arrange housing, while noting property options near Inverness. They spend time fishing, with Tashi preferring bait, and receive strong local support arranged by Tobgye and help from Apa, though a missed mail causes concern. Tobgye reports that the treaty has been signed.

CONTENT:
with unlimited servants, who are mere dirt to him. What he needs certainly is to be taken away from all that kind of thing, and made to do something, and think for himself a bit. He knows nothing of this country at all, and seems to care less.

14th and 15th August. Haat. Tobgye has sent orders here that everything is to be done for us, everything produced free and any wishes we have fulfilled. Apa has been very good and useful. We have got our plans now fixed at last, after a small mail came in from Kalimpong. We suddenly decided that Betty should fly home as soon as she can — on Sept 2nd if that can be arranged. She can do more that way than by remaining in India, with no home. She will get good treatment and she will be able to see about a house for us at home. Brarich is only offered at too high a price but there is another very attractive sounding place near Inverness which she can see. So now Betty leaves tomorrow, reaches Gangtok and Kalimpong on 21st and Calcutta on 26th. She'll have a few days there to do all we have all asked her to do, and off on 2nd Sept or as soon as possible after. We've been out fishing each day for a few hours. I've never seen so many trout, though I was unable to catch any big ones. None were feeding much, though they came to the fly alright. In the first 10 minutes, I had caught over 30, so it was really not much fun. There were too many. Twice I had 3 on at once. Tashi has no idea of fishing. He prefers standing in one place with bait and dangling his line trying to get big ones. His servants hold his rod and catch them too.

We have missed at least one mail while coming here, and this has been somewhat worrying, as there have been important letters in it. I thought that it would have been returned by H.H. but it has not been. Tobgye tells us that the Treaty has been signed at last. He must be very relieved indeed, and he

SUMMARY:
The diarist and Pasang pressed 16 flowers, while worrying that Yumden had not yet returned in thick mist. On 7 July at Haat, after heavy night rain the weather cleared with hail; they explored a nala with lakes, found masses of P. waddellii and P. jonarduni among Diapensia himalaicum, and the diarist stalked a herd of burrhel.

CONTENT:
I don't feel as if today had been a good one, and Pasang and I have 16 flowers in the press. Yumden at 5.0 pm. is not yet back! He sometimes does this, but I am a little worried as he went off by himself, and the mist was very thick for most of the day.

7th July. Haat. Rather a good day in some ways. There was terrific rain last night, but it was fine when we left at 6.0 this morning, and even the extreme tip of Kangkar Punsum was clear. It remained almost fine until we were a mile from camp at 3.0 pm. when I was glad to hear thunder, though only two claps. Since that did what it usually does, and cleared the atmosphere at once, after an hour we had bright sun. Now at 5.30 we're having a heavy hail shower, which I also think should be a good sign for tomorrow. The dry Tibetan plateau air is fighting the monsoon, and I hope for one fine day. We went up a nala opposite camp, and were somewhat disappointed near the first lake, but there are 3 lakes, and the place looked very good. Of chief interest were P. waddellii in masses on N & W slopes, and at last P. jonarduni, looking very pretty growing among Diapensia himalaicum, which here seems to be very late. I saw a herd of burrhel which I stalked quite nicely, and got to within about 50

SUMMARY:
In Haat, persistent rain kept the party in camp where photos were developed and seeds and bulbs packed; the writer collected young P. macrophylla roots and observed a large, unalarmed herd of burrhel, noting their abundance in Bhutan even in wet areas. With some sun returning, Tundru was ill with diarrhoea, and a dispute arose when Ngudup asked for a letter to H.H. for more butter despite rations lasting until 7th October.

CONTENT:
accounts are about all for their three days absence. Poor Tundru has diarrhoea again badly which has kept him from doing much. I took nice roots of young P. macrophylla from high up, will take them home. Again I saw a fine herd of burrhel, and got a fine picture of them as they went up the hill and over the skyline. They were not really frightened. Burrhel are obviously not animals of the dry Tibetan plateau only. There must be thousands in Bhutan, and in very wet parts too.

17th September. Haat. Very wet night, and very wet again all day today. One would say it was much wetter this month than July was, and I wonder when we will have a definite let up. Stayed in camp and developed photos and packed seed and bulbs.

18th September. Haat. At last some sun again. There was remarkable activity in camp as a result, and we are all feeling and looking considerably cleaner than we were. Ngudup came and asked me if I would write to H.H. for more butter, as it would only last a few days now. I refused, seeing he has rations for everyone up till 7th October. I really don't know how he can dispose of all the butter he does. I told him he could take and divide up one of the two huge 10 lb lumps I had. He told me I had finished one of these myself already - at which I was very angry with him. I have had one small tin of about 1/2 lb so far.

SUMMARY:
Notes compare Tobgye’s stance with that of Paro regarding Nepalese settlers, and describe a comfortable rest house and a massively built Dzong. Fieldwork continued along the Paro road in fir forest with few birds seen; prisoners from Ha wearing kangues were working on road repairs, and views of Ha Dzong were noted alongside new flowers and shrubs.

CONTENT:
27

Late Maharaja. Paro does not perhaps altogether agree with this, but Tobgye says he really interferes very little with him. Tobgye is afraid of the Nepalese settlers coming into Bhutan. So far they are only in the low lying Dooars, but tend to come up the valleys. He stops them as far as is in his power, but Paro allows them much more freedom. Everything here is made very pleasant and comfortable for us. 4 rooms and a large central hall. The rest house is a gaudily painted, but very strongly built affair, the floor planks each being about 18" across and 7 yards long. The Dzong opposite is a building which should last for years, very massively built, with a painted enclosed balcony running round one side and half of two other sides. It is built square, with a court in the centre. In the court is built another Dzong of similar type.

12th June - HA. B. S. continued. Spent the morning up the Paro road in the fir forest. Weather fine with showers. Few birds seen, and only two specimens shot. I tried my utmost to catch sight of any there but failed. Prisoners of Ha working on the road, and wearing Kangues. Views of Ha Dzong from up Paro road. Passed on the way four prisoners repairing the road. They were chained round the ankles and were wearing the 'kangue' round their necks. The local word for these means "door". Flowers and shrubs are coming out now and we found several new kinds. In the afternoon Tobgye

SUMMARY:
The party traveled to Ha from Damthang, noting the syces’ strong running, increasing butterflies, and a scenic evening. They stayed in the guest house opposite the Dzong and the “three sisters,” with generous provisions from Tobgye. Shooting was curtailed due to proximity to Paro and oversight by the Paro Penlop.

CONTENT:
26

passes to the summer yak grazing ground. Had she not been called here, she would not have come, yet it was with difficulty she could walk. Coming back from Ha, we again rode and the three syces with us ran very nearly the whole way and were not distressed at all. All were beautiful runners. It was not unusual for them, and they seemed capable of doing much more than the 8 miles uphill from Ha to Damthang.

11th June. HA. 8 miles. 9100'. Another good day, with lots of sun. Rode and walked down to Ha. The road is good after the first two miles, mostly over fairly level grassy land beside the river. Butterflies are now appearing in greater numbers, though we saw nothing of any rareness. Staying in the guest house on left bank of the river, opposite the Dzong and the "three sisters" the three dome shaped very steep wooded hills immediately behind the Dzong. A lovely evening with beautiful cloud effects. Tobgye provided a fine lunch for us, and sent down whisky, beer, tea, tomatoes, rice, eggs, chickens and everything we could possibly want. One could not ever come across a more thoughtful man than he is. Shooting will have to be curtailed here, as we are so near Paro. The Paro Penlop has sent over a man here too, who will see or hear if we do much shooting. I think Tobgye is rather worried about it. But this valley is all really his, having been given his father by the

[Marginal note:]
B. 9. cont?
View taken up the Ha valley in the evening from the front of the Ha rest house.

SUMMARY:
Travelled to Ha on 16 August via Chela La, noting apple trees from Kashmir and non-flowering saffron, and met Chuni and Mr. Williamson there. From 17–25 August halted in Ha with wet weather, spending days with Tobgye and companions in sports and archery; a small lake had been made above the rest house. An earlier encounter involved someone examining the diarist’s false teeth and inquiring about getting some made.

CONTENT:
false teeth to show him, but he insisted on my taking them out and showing them properly, then seized them and had a good look. Could I eat meat, fruit and so on? - could he have some made, as he had two loose teeth?

16th August. Ha. 16 miles. Fine for a few hours, then rained hard till the evening. Para did not get up very early, I was only able to be off by 9.15. On the way I saw the apple trees sent from Kashmir, and the saffron. The 'apples' are either the common wild ones, or they are not apples at all. The saffron is still alive, and looks healthy enough, but it never flowers according to the locals. But it was not in a very good place. Tobgye met me at the Chela La, where we had lunch. Then we slithered down a very wet path to Ha and met Chuni and Mr. Williamson.

17th - 25th August. Halt in Ha. I spent a very pleasant nine days with Tobgye and Co. in Ha. It was still pretty wet. We always had some rain, usually very heavy in the middle of the day, and fine in the mornings and evenings. Tobgye was determined to give us plenty of exercise, and we played hockey or football or had archery or something every day. He has made a very fine small lake just above the rest house, at Ha.

SUMMARY:
The diarist parts from Betty in heavy rain and reaches Ha after a fast five-hour journey, then halts there with very wet conditions from 18–20 August, attempting fishing with limited success and noting few flowers at this altitude. Letters mention Betty’s route toward Bumthang, Changu, Karponang, and Kalimpong, and the diarist suspects H.H. has held back missing mail.

CONTENT:
Cyananthus lobatus is in full flower too, and several Saxifrages and even Primula pusilla. When we left each other at 10:30, Betty to go on to India, or to return to Bumthang, the rain came down in solid sheets. With me it continued till after I reached Ha, which took 5 hours going fast. It was very sad leaving Betty, and I know she felt it very much not being able to finish her trip right in the seed collecting. She will have a very busy 2 1/2 months now till she flies back at the end of October—just as busy as we will have here I think.

18-19-20 August. Halt. Ha. All days very wet, either here or up the valley, or everywhere. River very full indeed, fuller than any high water marks on 18th and much discoloured. I tried fishing but could touch nothing at all that day. Other days fishing fair, but I have seen no fish over 1 1/2 lb, except on 19th one of perhaps 2 1/2 lb came to my fly—the only big fish seen. Ludlow would have called that a small fish in May. It seems that the time for fishing here is certainly not in the wettest part of the monsoon. Probably the best months are April, May, June and September. Got a letter back from Betty to say she reached Bumthang all right, but obviously very wet. She will now be on her way from Changu to Karponang, and in Kalimpong tomorrow, all being well. It has been very nice here, but one wants someone else to enjoy the place with. There are few flowers left at this altitude now, and so little interest except fishing. No news still of the missing mail. I think H.H. must have kept it till I return. Had a letter from him, but no mention of the mail in it.