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SUMMARY:
Notes local customs of refusing meat and sending honey to the Dzongpon. Describes a 12-mile march to Tsona over a snowy pass around 14,500 ft with clear but windy conditions, and records observations of Primula species and flocks of grandala.

CONTENT:
The locals will not eat meat of any of these wild animals, nor even hens, and are shocked at us eating pigeons. I asked if they eat honey, but they say they have to send that to the Dzongpon, who sells the beeswax and gives the remainder to cattle and mules. It looks as if we should have our clear day tomorrow all right. If so it will be very windy on top, and the sun on the snow will be pretty awful for everyone's eyes.

Tsona 12th April. To Tsona. 12 miles. 14500 ft. A long tiring day. There was a little snow during the night, but it cleared up and for the pass was neither too sunny nor too windy - in fact as good as we could have. There was not very much snow either, little over a foot at the top with deep drifts. I saw no new primulas. P. obliqua 1300 went up to about 14000, and P. atrodentata 1278 was beside the top at 15000 and is on this side too. Here the only flower seen is Prim. pygmaeorum, a minute thing less than 1/2 inch across, but pretty too, and growing very close to the grass which is close cropped by the sheep. Near Tsona we came across grandala in flocks of up to

SUMMARY:
A perfect day after earlier delays from missing yaks and money wrangles in Tsona; the party moved north over a pass to Tre with easy gradients. Lumsden attempted but missed a gazelle. Tre is noted as having 73 houses, and a visit toward Thang to look for blackbirds resulted in a difficult chase without success.

CONTENT:
morning. It cleared up gradually and midday has been lovely, but there are still clouds about, and more snow to come. Yaks did not turn up, so we had to stay the day here again.

Tsona to Tre
16th April. Tre B.P. 186.4 Temp. 44° Time 4.0pm. Approx ht. 14272 ft. An absolutely perfect day, without a cloud in the morning, then some wonderful cumulus clouds later on. Yaks of course turned up late, and there was the usual unpleasant wrangle about money and all sorts of little things for which Tsona is famous. We finally got all but 12 yaks off at 11.0 am, the last bunch leaving some hours later. Road leads north over the plain, then into a valley beyond that which leads to Mago. An easy ascent for 3 miles to the pass, and a very gentle descent of another three miles on the north side. Lumsden tried his hand again at gazelle, but missed. In at 3.0 pm.

Tre counts 73 houses
Thang, our last year first halt beyond Tsona was under a mile down the valley we camped in. So I went down to see if I could find any blackbirds which were there last year. I did, and was led a hell of a chase by them, missing one once, and failing to get near any others. But I found a

SUMMARY:
At Tsona on 8 November, after a very cold night, the diarist arrived early; Pintso prepared for departure toward the Kechen La, while Ludlow, delayed at Tawang and Sakden, had reached Trashigang on 28 October with seeds and flowers. The diarist dealt with a Dzongpen, noted missing post, and had mail from Chayul forwarded; on 9 November the party left Tsona joyfully for a camp north of Kechen La amid evening clouds over the Nyam Jang Chu, though yaks were delayed.

CONTENT:
8th November. Tsona. 14500. 9 miles. A perfect day, and little wind. Temp fell to 5°F last night, the coldest we have had. I came straight on and got here at 10:30, a very short day for a change. Pintso had been here 2 days, and he thinks all is well for our leaving tomorrow, but only as far as the Kechen La. Kit arrived in good order by 11:30. Ludlow had to halt 2 days and had a lot of trouble on the way down at Tawang and from there to Sakden, reaching Trashigang on 28th Oct. He got some good seeds on the way down, and some more flowers of interest. I had to call on a second rate of Dzongpen, which wasted some time. Everyone very glad to get here, where they feel they are near home. No post had reached Ludlow by 28th, so I can expect none till I get to Trashigang. The lost post has not been traced yet, and I doubt if it will be. My post from Chayul was still lying here when Pintso arrived. He sent it on two days ago.

9th November. Camp N of Kechen La 15000' 9 miles. A perfect day. Clouds in the evening rushing over the passes of the Nyam Jang Chu and then dispersing. With the very greatest of joy, we all shook the dust of Tsona off our feet. Pintso's arrangements were good, but as expected, the yaks did not turn up till

SUMMARY:
The party left Tsona for Dongkar via the Gorpo La, re-entering the Nyam Jang Chu valley in dry, sunny conditions and noting several bird records. They descended the Nyam Jang Chu, crossed the Cho La into the wetter Taree Rong Chu Valley, then on 22 Aug crossed the Me La to resume camp at Shengbe, with views over the Nyam Dzong Chu Valley from the Tibetan plateau. Notes reference related descriptions in Ludlow’s pages 89–92.

CONTENT:
Aug 15-22

Hrs 16. On Aug 15 left Tsona for Dongkar, re-entered into the Nyam Jang Chu valley by the Gorpo La, (17,750). We both fell in love with Dongkar. It lies within the dry zone & we basked in the rays of a Tibetan sun & saw beauty in the bareness of the surrounding mountains. Here we saw
Hrs 30 Pica pica bottanensis - see Hrs 30
Hrs 473 Carpodacus erythrinus roseatus - Rose Finch Hrs 473
Hrs 478 Emberiza cia khamensis - Bunting see Hrs 478

Descending the Nyam Jang Chu, we crossed the Cho La into the Taree Rong Chu Valley, where the vegetation showed the rainfall to be considerable, though we were still north of the main range. Here we found
Hrs 501. Perdix hodgsoniae hodgsoniae - Partridge
Hrs 293 Leptopoecile sophiae obscura
Hrs 386 Phylloscopus affinis
Hrs 268 Hodgsonius phoenicuroides phoenicuroides

Our new pass, the Cho La, took us across the Himalayan Range, & we overlooked the beautiful valley we had gazed into from the Me La the previous year. On 22 Aug we crossed the Me La & took up our quarters in our old camp at Shengbe.

Ludlow p. 89-90
Sangla - we had a magnificent view of
the Nyam Dzong Chu Valley stretching away
to the North, whilst immediately below us to
the west Dongkar with Dzong could be
easily discerned.
We were standing on the Tibetan plateau
country & it was at once realized that the
main Himalayan range was to the south of us.
Story of lost bird in Nyam Dzong Chu
p. 90-91-92

SUMMARY:
At Tsona the party halts through 13–15 April amid cold, wind, frost, and snowfall, noting numerous waterfowl on the lake and recording barometer, temperature, and altitude. Yaks are promised though there is disagreement on the route. A man arrives from Trashigang with rice from the Dzongpon and is tasked with sending mail.

CONTENT:
about 300 birds, and shot 8 without anyone being much the wiser. They are in perfect plumage. Tsona is cold and dry, with the usual strong wind blowing all day but dying down at night. With a clear sky and bright sun though it is not too bad.

13th April. Halt Tsona. A perfect morning after pretty hard frost at night. Later on it clouded over and snow fell all evening from about 3.0pm. Very cold with a strong wind. Yaks promised for tomorrow night, but they want to go a different way to the way we want. A lot of bar-headed geese, brahminy and other duck on the lake, also brown-headed gulls and black-necked crane. Very cold at night. I make B.P. here 186.8. Temp. 43° Time 1.0pm. Ht. 14,000'.

Tsona. 14th April. Halt. A dull day with nothing to do but try to keep warm.

Tsona. 15th April. Halt. It started to snow in the afternoon and continued most of the night. There were three inches of fresh snow in the morning and it was very cold. A man came up from Trashigang with a present of rice for us from the Dzongpon. We are using him to send off a mail tomorrow.

SUMMARY:
At Tsona, the party hiked above camp, photographed Paraquilegia grandiflora, collected butterflies, and shot a few birds, then spent the afternoon developing and packing, leaving a dump of 11 boxes. Mail arrived after a month; Kurtip recovered, and it is noted that permission to reach the area was hard-won in Lhasa, while Pintso had exaggerated the cost of gifts given earlier.

CONTENT:
31

Most of this was genuine first-hand appreciation, but Pintso made the best of things, and told them that the bowl cost Rs 45/-. Actually it cost Rs 8/-. He compared the cloth to my Harris tweed, whereas it cost Rs 5/- for the piece of 5 yards we gave. Kurtip is a better man today. He is up and about. I don't know how he managed that trip from Shao yesterday.

18th July. Halt Tsona. Heavy rain during the night, but a good clear day. Ludlow and I went up the hill behind camp in the early morning. I took 2 good colour photos of the Paraquilegia grandiflora (No 678). We then wandered about the hillsides, and collected some good butterflies - three Parnassius and 2 or 3 Colias, - later on I shot a few birds. Spent the afternoon developing and packing up. We leave a dump of 11 boxes here till our return. Kurtip now normal again and fit enough to start off with us tomorrow for Mago. This afternoon our first mail arrived - just a month since the last. I hear from Tsona that we were lucky to get here. Rai Bahadur Norbhu had to try six times in Lhasa, the Kashag was very reluctant to grant permission. It seems the Chinese are doing

SUMMARY:
The diarist halts at Tsona, collects and packs Paraquilegia and catches Parnassius butterflies, while dealing with staff illness and asking the Dzongpen to arrange further collection and forwarding to Sahden amid rainy, snowy weather. Delays occur when yaks fail to arrive under the Tibetan 'Tao' system, with details of payments and origins from the Mago direction. The party then camps west of Gorpa La, noting barometric readings for nearby passes and Dongkar, and a route skirting Tsona hill.

CONTENT:
57

13th August - Halt Tsona. B.P. 186.7 Temp. 58°. Spent the morning taking bits of Paraquilegia, & catching parnassius, a number of P. imperator were seen & caught, but of the others only P. epaphus. Packed the Paraquilegia in two boxes, below stones, then charcoal, then earth. Ramzana down with fever. Ahmad Sheikh now better. Always one of them seems to have it. Bagged six lots of Paraquilegia flowers, & asked the Dzongpen to arrange to collect & send on to Sahden. He promises to, but I am a little doubtful. A good deal of rain, & some fresh snow on the hills round about.

[Marginal notes: Cyananthus incanus 794, Meconopsis horridula, Clematis orientalis 797, Butterflies, Paraquilegia]

14th August. Halt at Tsona. Yaks did not turn up, so we had to wait. The system of 'Tao' in Tibet is a curse. Our yaks had to come from 2-3 days journey away in the Mago direction to take us in the opposite direction. We pay them 2 tankas a day per yak, besides which they get 3 tankas per day from the Tsona people.

[Marginal note: Gentiana aglaia 798]

15th August. Camp West of GORPA LA. 14 miles. (B.P. of Gorpa La 181.1" Temp 50°. B.P. of SANG LA. 181.9" Temp 50°. B.P. of Dongkar 188.5 Temp 58°.). If camped at Tsona village, route leaves towards the West, & skirts the Tsona hill, turning to the North, over a

SUMMARY:
At Tsona the party photographed locals and shared biscuits and ginger. Ludlow collected 30 Colias butterflies while the writer obtained a horned lark and noted abundant Paraquilegia; they also exchanged rupees to tankas and arranged cheap transport. Gifts including gloves, a papier-mâché bowl, Kashmir tweed, Bhutanese cloth, and saffron were gratefully received.

CONTENT:
30

have their photos taken, and would cheerfully have sat
Cine No 2 for hours for them. We gave them some of our
finished at luxuries - chocolate biscuits, ginger etc. They
Tsona - seemed thoroughly happy. Then Ludlow went out
with a butterfly net and walking stick gun for three
hours. He shot nothing as the gun seems pretty
useless over 10 yards. But he caught 30 colias
butterflies, which will certainly be very good.
Cinema I went out at 1.30 and returned at four. Got a
No 3 c. good horned lark and one flower. There are very
All at few flowers here, but Paraquilegia is finer than
Tsona I've seen anywhere. On the rocks north of camp
Flower box are dozens of clumps, some nearly 2 ft across.
On servant At Tawang we were unable to get our rupees
changed to tankas. But here we have changed
Rs 200 @ 10 tankas. The rate given is not
Contax No 3 too good. But transport here is very cheap.
finished at Pimbo arranged to hire at 2/3 tanka per load.
Tsona Yesterday we gave our presents: 1 pr gloves,
a silver lined papier-mâché bowl, a length of
Kashmir tweed, a piece of Bhutanese cloth and
some saffron. The saffron caused great
excitement, as it is very good and quite unobtainable
here. They were quite thrilled with everything.

SUMMARY:
Notes from Tsona and the ascent to the Kechar La describe entry into true Tibetan plateau country, with ravens, horned larks, mountain finches, and stunted flowers characteristic of the region. Observations include abundant plateau species and marshland birds such as Melanocorypha maxima, Montifringilla ruficollis, Grus nigricollis, and Sterna hirundo tibetana around Tsona and nearby marshes.

CONTENT:
13733
54932
14282

Tsona
BP = 186.7° Temp. 13733

Ibis 15.
July 15.
The Kechar La seems to be on the main range, for here we saw 104 =

Ibis 481 Otocorys alpestris elwesi — abundant Tibetan plateau.
Ibis 478 Fringalauda brandti haematopygia — common in suitable localities on the Tibetan Plateau.
Whilst a few miles to the north brought us to Plateau country on which
Melanocorypha maxima, Montifringilla ruficollis etc. were abundant.
Ibis 481 Melanocorypha maxima Lark — Ibis 481
Ibis 477 Montifringilla ruficollis abundant Tibetan Plateau.
On the Tsona marshes several waders were noted as well as
Ibis 503 Grus nigricollis
Ibis 502 Sterna hirundo tibetana — frequently seen — lakes & marshes of the Tibetan Plateau.

Ludlow p. 47
On the ascent to the Kechar La
we passed into true Tibetan country.
Ravens, horned larks, mountain
finches as well as numerous
stunted flowers all proclaimed the
fact that we were now in true
Tibetan plateau country.

SUMMARY:
Heavy snow has closed the pass near Tsomgo, with temperatures around freezing and ongoing snowfall; film and exposure notes are recorded. On 8th May, Danong scouted towards the Natu La and reported over five feet of snow and lost mule loads, leading to plans to send mules back to Gangtok for rations. Karponang bungalow is reportedly occupied by two lamas, emissaries of the Tashi Lama, preventing use of that stop.

CONTENT:
7

feet of snow on the pass. Normally the pass is open all
year, the rhododendrons should be coming into flower here,
instead of being under 2 ft of snow as they now are. There
seems little or no hope of our crossing for some days yet.
My bad luck on passes seems to continue. Min. temp in
verandah today was 33°: maximum in verandah 45°, but
maximum outside 50°. Snow is thawing hard, but
fresh light snow continually falling. Light given by
Electrophot in open, between f 16 & 22.

Cine Film B3.
Close up of caravan man. f 8 & x.

8th May. TSOMGO. A lovely morning from sunrise till 9.0, when
mist came down and it snowed. Two men (Danong and a muleteer,
Lepcha Coleen) sent up the pass with mules to see whether we can get on tomorrow.
Ludlow and I walked down towards Lagyap La for birds - the
only collecting we can do. Found one dazed moth in the snow
on the path. 3.0 pm. Danong came back, having gone five
miles towards the Natu La. He reports that even there, the
snow is over five feet deep, and that several mules and their
loads have been lost. He thinks there is no hope of crossing
for five days anyway, and says that even with 50 coolies we
should have no hope. Karponang bungalow is occupied
we believe by two lamas, emissaries of the Tashi Lama
who is thought to be intending to return to Tibet. So we
could not go there even if we wanted to. Our idea is to
let the mules return to Gangtok for rations: send Danong

B. 3.
Tsomgo lake evening and early morning