Showing 14 results

SUMMARY:
Rain in Yatung limited collecting to a few rhododendrons and a viburnum, and ponies were arranged for travel to Gangtok amid staffing issues due to Williamson’s wedding. The next day the journey from Yatung to Tsomgo crossed the Natu La in mist and soft snow, with a small avalanche observed and a pony falling.

CONTENT:
of much the same style as the Kashmir houses, but ever so much more pukka-built. The Tibetans we meet are all very cheerful, & invariably greet one by taking off their hats & salaaming.

17th May YATUNG. Rained most of the day, & after two & a half hours on the hill behind the bungalow we only got one bird. Took R. cinnabarinum (L&S. 748), R. cephalanthum (L&S. 9), a few rhododendrons & a viburnum V. cordifolium (L&S. 10). Arranged for ponies (three) for Gangtok. I take Ahmad Sheikh with me, & therefore Ludlow is left without a cook. He wired Williamson for permission to use the chowkidar while I was away & got the helpful answer that he had no objection provided the B.T.A agreed. The B.T.A is in Gyantse. In fact W's wedding is a perfect curse.

Sherriff returns to Gangtok for Williamson's wedding.

18th May. TSOMGO. 22 miles. 11 hours. It was a lovely clear morning in Yatung, so I left at 6.15 & decided to cross the Natu La while the going was good. Ahmad Sheikh & I each rode a mule, while our bedding was on a third one. Up to Chushithang it was lovely & the view perfect. As we reached the pass the clouds came down, & actually on the top we were in thick mist. The track was easy so far, though there is still nearly as much snow as when we crossed before. On this side there appeared to be the same amount of snow, & it was very wet & soft. A short way this side of the pass, a small avalanche passed about 10 yds in front of me, & when I stopped to watch it, I heard that the last pony had fallen. It had been caught in an even

SUMMARY:
An easy downhill march to Yatung through fir, larch, and rhododendron is described, with few flowers seen and notes on birds and scenes such as Kargiu monastery. The party visits the Depen of Pipithang with Pema translating, rides along the Amo Chu, meets telegraph clerk Rosemeier, and decides to skip Lingmathang due to late flowers, with plans for Ludlow to go to Sharithang while the writer returns.

CONTENT:
13

snow was very fine. The Tibetans have some most expressive words. Their word for dawn means either "The lifting of the skies", or "Sunlight on the peaks."

to
14th May. YATUNG. 9950'. 12 miles. Fine most of the day at low

B. S. contd
Scenes on the way down from Chusitang.
Kargiu monastery -
Piptanthus nepalensis (no. 3)

altitudes, snow on the hills after midday. An easy march down hill to the Chumbi valley, through fir rather than pine & larch & rhododendron jungle. We let the kit go on ahead & wandered down very slowly, looking for birds. Surprised how few flowers are out. There is hardly anything to be collected here now, & there will be less in Lingmathang. Still no news about Tibet from Williamson. Called on the Depen of Pipithang, an agreeable Tibetan trade agent. There the head clerk of the B.T.A. - Pema - met us & translated. Rode in from Pipithang up the Amo Chu, a river which looks ideal for trout, were it not in Tibet. Met here by Rosemeier, the telegraph clerk, who long outstayed his welcome.

15th May. YATUNG. All flowers are so far behind that we have decided not to go to Lingmathang to seek flowers. We will see the place tomorrow & when Ludlow is ready he will go direct to Sharithang. I must return

SUMMARY:
Notes describe passing Yamdrok Tso at Talung with views from Cho Dzong, an easy ascent and descent over the Ta La pass to the plain and Nangartse, and fording the Karo Chu, with fine weather and filming tame ravens. From camp at Nangartse they mention the monastery of Dorji Phamo, report failed telephone contact with Williamson in Lhasa and that they will not meet at Gyantse; the item was sent from Gyantse to Calcutta on 24/09/1933.

CONTENT:
95

B. 30.
Transport passing close to Yamdrok Tso at Talung:
Yamdrok Tso from Cho Dzong:
Ditto: Donkeys & yaks on march over Ta La. Ditto:

the Ta La at m 5. Ascent & descent are both easy, the pass being a climb of about 750 ft. On the north side the plain is again reached at m 6, & the path is thence across the flat plain to Nangartse at m 10. The Karo Chu river is forded shortly after reaching the plain.

At last we had a very nearly perfect day. It was dull at first, then brightened up & the cloud effects were wonderful. We only saw a patch of the Yamdrok Tso, but it was worth seeing. Except for that & the clouds, there is nothing very beautiful, but one could look at the blue sky & clouds for hours. I took some Cinema films of ravens which were very tame in our last camp.

B. 31.
Camp at Nangartse:
raven.

We can see in the distance from here, the monastery where the famous Dorji Phamo (thunderbolt mother of pigs) lives. She is the only woman who can have a meeting with the Dalai Lama, her fame lying in the fact that she can change herself into a pig. Being the only woman who can do so, she is rightly famous. We cannot get hold of Williamson on the phone. He is some way from the office in Lhasa & can't go there just now, but we hear that he will remain in Lhasa till the end of the month, so we will not meet at Gyantse. I should like to have met him there to hear the

B 26 27 28 29 30 Sent from Gyantse 24.9.33 to Calcutta.

SUMMARY:
The party halts at Towa, where the Jongpen, newly returned from Lhasa, invites them to stay another day for dinner. They plan to travel to Nangartse by the route between Pomo and the Yamdrok Tsos, arrange transport changes at Lalung, Monda La, Ling, and Nangartse, and note local transport rates between Singhi Dzong, Lala, and Towa.

CONTENT:
local serai, a filthy yard and much filthier hovel of a home. But Ludlow soon stirred him up, and we were taken to this camping ground, which we recognize from White's book as the place he was meant to camp.

6th Sept. Halted at Towa. In the evening we heard that the Jongpen had just come back from Lhasa and would like us to stop another day and have dinner with him. Rather against our will we agreed to. In the meantime we had asked about the route to Nangartse. There are three routes — one to the East which Williamson took: one to the West to Pomotsongo and one between the Pomo and Yamdrok Tsos. This is the one we wanted to go by, and curiously enough it was the one suggested by the Jongpen's men. No one has been by it yet: we will see both lakes and if clear Kulu Kangri and the main range to the West of it. And I think we have gained our point that we want to have transport only changed at Lalung, Monda La, Ling and Nangartse. That will make an enormous difference. We can't get over the transport rates here. The rate from Singhi Dzong to Lala — a very hard 12 mile march was 1 tanka per animal or 1/2 tanka per coolie. From there on to Towa is 5 miles, but the coolies have not yet come in for their pay. I suppose they are not used to

SUMMARY:
Notes on departure with mule transport, observations of conifers, magnolias and daphnes, and a dispute over extra pony rations. Ludlow indicates the route to Changu, Sikkim; arrival at TSOMGO (10 miles, 12,400') with snow starting at 12:30. Cine film B.1 taken between Kalimpong and near Lagyap La.

CONTENT:
50-60 ft high. A good many are in bloom, but all have been terribly spoilt by the hail. Magnolias & daphnes too are numerous: I think it is mag. campbellii - some of the trees being 70-90 ft high with huge blooms. Collected seven birds but no flowers. The transport is mule & far away the best I've seen: they did the full 10 miles in a little under four hours. We took one riding pony, but I walked. Once the order to load up was given, they were off in half an hour - a jolly good performance on the first morning. Had to pay Rs 6/- for three extra ponies = 1 per 6 baggage ponies for their rations. I'm sure that is not right, but Rai Bahadur Norbu said we should pay: he is probably in with the transport people. Williamson is too weak to tell them they can't have it. It is grand to be off, & to see conifers in the distance again.

Ludlow says "To Changu Sikkim"
6th May. TSOMGO. 10 miles. 12400'. A lovely morning, but clouded

Cine film No.
B.1. taken between Kalimpong and near Lagyap La. All with filter. Snows with f 5.6-11 at 6.30 am.

over by 1200. In at 1230, when snow started falling. Passed in zone of conifers and rhododend

SUMMARY:
Notes describe views of Singhi Dzong and the Kuru Chu gorge, photographing types and views at Lala, and local reactions to camp gear and flowers (including delphinium used as a 'louse killer'). The Jongpen has gone to Lhasa with Williamson, affecting transport, while the party camps in a sheltered field and tends seedlings amid wind and impending frost.

CONTENT:
B 27.
View up side valley - Singhi Dzong: from bridge over Kuru Chu looking up: from ridge above looking down gorge.
Types & views at Lala.
Petunias

Their name for the delphinium is "louse killer". I suppose they imagine we carry it about for that purpose. They make it into a paste & put it in their clothes. The box of flowers also causes great amusement. But when we arrive in camp, the greatest attraction is seeing a camp bed & chair put together. Everyone will close round & just stand & gaze at it. The scenery yesterday was fine - the gorge of the Kuru Chu, the little villages we passed through; and the people themselves - all were interesting. The Jongpen here has gone to Lhasa with Williamson, so has his steward, so I don't know how we will fare for transport. His wife acts in his place. The Dzong is a fine building on a rock in the valley, with a gompa below it. Our camp is in a lovely green field, surrounded by trees & out of the strong wind. The seedlings seem to have lasted well so far, but the wind will be a trial to them here. It is so dry & different to what they are used to. I water them twice a day, with that perhaps all will be well. There will soon be frost, then presumably I can let them dry off. Last night we were both pretty ill-tempered for a while. When we reached here in the dark, we found that the man responsible had sent all our kit to the

SUMMARY:
The writer recounts time in Paro, including lunches with the Penlop at the dzong, watching lama dances, and enjoying archery practice with Tobgye and Ludlow, while expressing frustration with Williamson’s behavior. On 28 June they leave Paro for Pemithanka via the Bela La, where the Penlop offers tea and rice before farewells.

CONTENT:
monastery, a fine old building with walls about 6ft thick, loopholed for archery. This was once attacked by the Tibetans, who were driven off by the Bhutanese. Returned to Paro at 12.0 and lunched with the penlop, who then gave another show of his dancers. Williamson must always have something done for him, and I think everyone is now getting very tired indeed of him and his requests for more. He has no work to do, that is the chief trouble. His manners to the penlop are perfectly beastly. I would not remain with him a day if I could help it. Tobgye is getting thoroughly sick of him too. In the evening Tobgye took Ludlow and I out for some archery practice, which we all enjoyed very much.

27th June. PARO. Yesterday it rained most of the day. At 11.30 went to the dzong to lunch with Penlop. It is a huge place, and when one gets inside looks most impressive. After lunch watched the lama dances done inside a huge hall. Cleared up by 3.0 pm when we left. Ludlow and I walked up the river and took photos of the dzong from various angles. More practice of archery in the evening. My mouth is now much better, but another tooth is coming out by itself, and now sticks down 1/8 inch, preventing me chewing.

28th June. PEMITHANKA. 10 miles. 8500'. Left Paro at 8.30 and after a short visit to the Penlop in the dzong, rode up to the Bela La, 11650', where the Penlop gave us tea and rice, where we said goodbye. When we were

B. 16. Views in Paro up the river, mostly of Paro Dzong and in dzong and of helmeted soldiers.

SUMMARY:
Ludlow and S.D. struggled to collect birds due to swarms of leeches. The party arrived on the 25th, met Price and Waters, heard of Williamson’s engagement and plans to bring his wife to Bhutan, and lunched with Tobgye (Raja S.T. Dorje) in Kalimpong, whose wife is sister to the Maharaja of Sikkim.

CONTENT:
Ludlow and S.D. tried to collect a few birds but badly handicapped by swarms of leeches which infest the jungle near here. He seeing L.D. dare not move off the stony path - if they did they were immediately attacked by myriads of leeches. Someone says that a bird which dropped about a yard behind the path way, they had to make a dash for the bird, retrieve it and flee back to the path to pick off the leeches. After they lost the specimen if they don't find them on trees.

or bird, so long as we do so carefully and near villages or monasteries.

We came here on 25th, to find the Prices here also Waters just arriving. Price is from the China Consular Service and seeing a few places on his way home on leave. Williamson surprised us by saying he was engaged and would soon be married. Moreover his plan is for his wife to come with him to Bhutan. We don't like that, but it can't be helped. I'm not sure that Tobgye will either, as it will mean an increased amount of transport required and all sorts of extra trouble. We lunched one day with Tobgye in Kalimpong. His wife is a most charming woman, the sister of the Maharaja of Sikkim, on whom we are calling today. Tobgye - Raja S.T. Dorje - is the nicest Oriental I have ever met and one can talk to him just like any British official. He and his wife both speak English very well. The drive here was over a very bad

SUMMARY:
On 7th September the party halted at Towa, met and lunched with the local jongpen, and confirmed plans to take the Lalung–Munda–Ling route. On 8th September they marched to Lalung, describing the good path, the Lhobrak valley, and a camp near the monastery, and discussed hopes for the Tashi Lama’s return to Tibet, a matter Williamson is expected to raise at Lhassa.

CONTENT:
getting pay. When a jongpen travels, he pays nothing on
the way, but has free transport wherever he goes.

7th September. Halt at Towa. We lazed in the morning waiting
for the summons to eat with the jongpen. He came himself
about 11:30, and after his visit we went up to the Dzong to
lunch. It was the usual pleasant meal of gyatu with
Chang - very excellent and satisfying. The jongpen is a nice
young man of 32, and was very obliging to us. I think
he would let us go by any route we wanted to. At any
rate the Lalung - Munda - Ling route is decided on.

8th September. To LALUNG 13,250' 8 miles. The path is good and
direct the whole way to Lalung. For the first 3 1/2 miles it
is through the Towa cultivation, then across stony waste land
to m 5 1/2 where the Lhobrak valley narrows to a gorge. At
m 7 the valley again broadens out and cultivation
is met. Lalung monastery lies on the left bank, and the
river is crossed by a bridge opposite the monastery. A very
good camping ground is in a willow garden in front of the
monastery. Water and fuel ample. Yesterday during
lunch we asked the jongpen whether he thought the
Tashi Lama would return to Tibet. This is one of the
things Williamson will certainly have to discuss at
Lhassa. The jongpen was full of hope, as a great
number of Tibetans are. One of the reasons he gave

SUMMARY:
The party halts in Gyantse amid bad weather, attends meals with local contacts, handles repairs and correspondence, and exchanges currency; they hear by wireless that Germany has invaded Austria. They then march to Gabshi, Ralung, and Nangartse with cold, snowy conditions over the Karo La, noting altitudes, distances, and a tidy visit to Williamson’s grave.

CONTENT:
genuine.

8th - 13th March. Halted in Gyantse. Rotten weather all week, with a gale of wind during the day, which raises a dust storm. We have seen a good deal of Tendong, who has been most helpful, getting us little concessions which make all the difference to our comfort ahead. Repairing shoes, kit and dealing with correspondence. On 13th March we heard on our wireless that Germany had invaded Austria - Lhasa !!

14th March. To Gabshi. 16 miles. alt. 13,700' approx. A fine morning, after two bad days in Gyantse when it snowed on all the hills round about. We stopped at Tering's house and had lunch and a good long talk. They are a nice family. Only the old pair, and Jimmie and his wife were there. When we came out, the day was rotten, very cold, clouded over, and remained so all day. Tents are cold but not too bad, as here the wind is not high. We are all very glad to get away from Gyantse, though everyone was very pleasant there. We all dined together on the 8th, and all lunched together at Tendong's on the 10th. Then we had Sunday supper again in the Mess our last evening. Richardson was most helpful and seems a nice man. The Doctor, Morgan, is more independent than any of the others, and we both liked him, as also Colbourne Hudson, the two B.O.'s. We changed Rs 4000/- into the new silver Tibetan rupee, at the rate of Rs 300/- = T.Rs 500/-. That added considerably to the weight of our kit, but it was better than changing to copper, where Rs 200/- would be a mule load. I saw the graveyard one day, just to have a look at Williamson's grave. It is all very tidy and neat.

15th March. To Ralung. 16 miles. alt. 14,300 ft approx. Pretty cold last night, though not windy. This morning was lovely, with very little wind as far as Ralung, by which time it had clouded over. We could see Ningsingkangsa, but only in a very flat light. Nothing of interest seen in bird line. We are living in a 'house' here. It is not clean, but not bad as they go, only a little draughty. Tomorrow with 32 miles to go, we must be up early.

16th March. To Nangartse. 32 miles. Snowed most of the night. Two inches lying, till well over the Karo La. Left at 6.0 am - without shaving - in at 5.0 pm. Kit in at 5.30 pm. In spite of the hard night, it was a lovely day, the sun coming out at 7.0 am and remaining bright all day.