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LSH/1/1/9/1/45 · Part · 1933-05-07
Part of The Ludlow & Sherriff Collection

SUMMARY:
The diarist, ill with bronchitis, outlines a staged route through multiple settlements, then reaches Mashina and pushes the coolies on to Dunkhar, revising planned departure dates. Many people are sick, including a man of Wangmoo who was injured, and the writer discusses difficulties securing coolies due to local allegiances to H.H., Wangmoo, Ani Choden, and Pema Dechen, before deciding to move on.

CONTENT:
Bad night & Bronchitis. I cannot manage hills as they are here. They are too hard work now for me. I got no sleep at all. We are all having a late start this morning, which I hate, but the coolies are so damn tired. Our plans must now be: 11 Dunkhar, 12 Halt, 13 Shambling, 14 a camp on Kuru Chu R bank, 15 Lhumbe, 16 Halt, 17 Takila, 18 Ungar, 19 Pimi, 20 Tang, 21 Halt, 22 Shabjetang on the Bumthang Chu, 23 Halt, 24, 25, 26 northwards, 27th Waitsang. That is a lot of good time wasted, though the Rudu La may be good via Tang; the route is new & fairly high, so should be of interest.

Later. We got to Mashina in very good time, so I asked the coolies to go on to Dunkhar, which they did, but were all in, tired, at 3.0 p.m., having come very steeply down over 5000' & up nearly 2000'. We have altered dates a little, & will leave here on 12th, and Lhumbe 14th, Ungar 16th, Tang 18th, Shabjetang 20th & halt there. Many sick people here, as I was specially tired, including one of Wangmoo's men who fell off his horse & made a hole right through into his mouth with a stone.

In some ways, it may be well to leave this area. Coolies might have been difficult. They have to come from here, & would have to come 3 days' march before reaching me to move me 1 day's march. And then to Waitsang would have taken, I'm told, no less than 8 nights on the way, besides going into Tibet. All the men up the Kuru Chu valley are not available as coolies. Here, nearly all are H.H.'s subjects, personal servants: so they would come with me. At Shambling, all are Wangmoo's, Ani Choden & Pema Dechen's. At Tungyang they are Wangmoo's. These people do not do the ordinary coolie work, except for their owners. Anyway we are off now, for better or worse; it does not matter what happens here.

LSH/1/1/10/1/31 · Part · 1933-10-10
Part of The Ludlow & Sherriff Collection

SUMMARY:
The diarist finalizes loads, sends spare items to H.H., notes further gifts from the Ashis, and expresses deep gratitude for H.H.’s hospitality in Bhutan, agreeing with Betty to take Tasho home for five months. On 13th October they travel from Kuji to Wangdicholing to say goodbye to H.H., then on to Gyetsa in heavy rain, finding a poor reception and remarking on the late, unsettled monsoon.

CONTENT:
actually seen it done. I carefully worked out all loads and found three boxes spare, besides all our extra stores, four tents and various odds and ends. So I sent all these to H.H. Now this afternoon we have been given more presents by the Ashis, and it is a problem how to fit them in. One more box would have been most useful. I suppose we'll get everything in somehow. And so ends our stay with H.H. I have certainly a lot to be grateful to him for. I have stayed with him in all 2 days, 6 days, 3 days and 5 days and he has made me and my friends his guests all the time we have been in Bhutan. He has fed us all, and our servants, all the time: he has provided saddles for us, sent our mail each way and generally looked after us all. Could hospitality ever be greater? In return Betty and I now have to take Tasho home, and we will have a job looking after him no doubt. He will be with us about 5 months.

13th October. Gyetsa. Rain at night and a dull day, with heavy rain several times during the day. We left Kuji at 7:30 and went to Wangdicholing at 8:30 to say goodbye to HH and Co. Choden was there, but not Pema Dechen, and Tasho was with us from Kuji. We had tea cakes and so on and after taking a few group photos, we left at 9:30 and got in here in a bad rain storm at 2.0 pm. The weather is very unsettled indeed, and looks like continuing like this. Reception here poor - nothing got ready in the way we have come to expect. This continued heavy rain too is rather unexpected, and we all feel now that it is high time that we got into settled steady weather. All through the year the monsoon has been late.