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LSH/1/1/5/1/35 · Part · 1937-05-03
Fait partie de The Ludlow & Sherriff Collection

SUMMARY:
At a high camp around 10,000 ft with scarce water, the writer describes leeches, midges, and limited washing, expecting no water at the next camp. Locals share stories of the Black Mountain’s golden, silver, and emerald lakes and rock salt, recalling an old man punished by HH for musk deer trapping and a mad lama who returned with rock salt three years ago.

CONTENT:
to stick to the ridge. Even then, one would expect some water, but there is none. A few leeches today; midges awful in last camp, but we are almost too high for them here. We must now be at 10,000 ft. The locals have many stories about the Black Mountain. There is one old man with me who used to come up here 20 years ago to shoot or trap musk deer. When HH heard of it he had him beaten, so he has not been here since. There are said to be three kinds of lakes near the top - one golden, one silver and one emerald. They say also that rock salt is found on the mountain, but that the Tibetans prayed the Bhutanese not to use it, as they would have nothing to trade if they did. So now it is not used. This is hearsay, but 3 years ago a mad lama went up the Black Mountain and came back with a big piece of rock salt. So there must be something in the story. They say we will not have any water even in tomorrow's camp. I have not shaved or washed these last two days, but have at least had two small cups of tea at breakfast and at tea time. This camp must have been the scene of a terrific storm,

LSH/1/1/5/1/165 · Part · 1937-07-14
Fait partie de The Ludlow & Sherriff Collection

SUMMARY:
Records continued fine mornings following a Bhutanese 'St. Swithin's Day' weather rule. On 19th July the party traveled 8 miles to Trongsa in leech-ridden conditions, found a single campanula flower, and stayed in HH's summer house above the dzong; the Zimpon recounted his trip to Calcutta with HH and his heavy duties at Damthang arranging salaams and gifts for visitors to the Maharaja.

CONTENT:
back to Chendebi again. The Bhutanese St. Swithin's Day rule is holding good. We had awful rain for the last 10 days of the last Bhutanese month. But if the 30th was fine, we were to have 15 days fine, if wet, then bad weather for a month. It was not fine, but there was comparatively little rain and we had sun in the afternoon. Since then all mornings have been fine.

19th July. To Trongsa. 8 miles. Very heavy rain all last evening and night. Fine this morning, leeches very bad, got 5 or 6 on my feet and some on my hands which weren't seen till too late. Found only one flower of a nice campanula, but otherwise nothing of interest. Here we are staying in a very nice kind of summer house which HH uses, above the dzong. It is pleasantly cool and a breeze blows all day. The Zimpon seems a very nice man. I had met him before in Bumthang, where we had competed at archery. He was down in Calcutta with HH last year, and has been telling me all about his experiences there. His work was light, he got all the fun there was, and thoroughly enjoyed himself. But at Damthang on the way back, he had to work hard, as everyone who came to salaam the Maharaja had to do so through him, he had to give presents to them all. So that of the 8 or 9 maunds of things he had brought

Yuto La camp entries, 20–21 July
LSH/1/1/5/1/167 · Part · 1933-07-20 - 1933-07-21
Fait partie de The Ludlow & Sherriff Collection

SUMMARY:
At around 14,000 ft the party camps on Yuto La, noting changing weather, a nearby water-turned prayer wheel tended by an elderly woman, and botanical work including primulas and seed collections. A man delivers biscuits and mangoes, the latter sent by Tobgye to HH by express runners. The following day is a halt with rain.

CONTENT:
82

from Calcutta, not a thing remained when he got back home.
It really is a rotten system this present giving one, but it
seems very well established. Outside the window is a huge
water-turned prayer wheel. Beside it sits a woman acquiring as
much merit as possible. She sits by the door of the wheel house; in
one hand she is turning a prayer wheel, while she turns her beads over
in the other. She must feel that she is very old indeed.

Up to 14,000 ft.
20th July. Yuto La. 9 miles. BP. Temp. Time Ht. More or
less fine till the evening. Camp actually on the pass, hope to see
to N-S during the next two days. One primula is still in
flower here, No 3465 (P. smithiana 3465 - see 12th June), which we took before in the Longto Chu,
3250 (P. sikkimensis 3250). I got a fair amount of seed from some taken pretty low
down, where the lowest of often 6 whorls were ripe (Geranium 3466). The next
few days are more and more going to be a trial (Clematis 3467). On the pass a
man was waiting patiently for me, with a basket of biscuits
& another of mangoes! The latter are sent by Tobgye to HH by
express runners (Presents). It is a very kind thought, but an awful waste
of money, especially on me, as I don't particularly care for them.

Yuto La Camp.
21st July. Halt. Thunder again last evening. Fine for an hour or
two this morning, then rain most of the day. We went up the

LSH/1/1/5/1/171 · Part · 1933-07-21
Fait partie de The Ludlow & Sherriff Collection

SUMMARY:
The diarist arrives near a new palace and is lodged in a specially prepared house, meets Nahu, and pays a visit to HH with the Maharani and young Jigme. From 24–31 July they halt at Domkhar with much social activity; Wangmo is at Lama Gomp and Pedmadechen at Wangcholing.

CONTENT:
quite good, and much admired the buglers who bugled hard even when climbing a 1 in 4 hillside. We passed the new palace, a grand looking place and came on 1/2 mile beyond, where a special house has been erected for me. It is a grand place, with hall, reception room, bed-writing room, bath room and usual offices a little way away. The whole thing is very pukka, all lined with cloth, walls and ceilings, while carpets are on the floors.

Nahu met me here and we talked for an hour or more, but he has forgotten nearly all his Hindi, and conversation was not too bright. Then I went to see HH, with the Maharani and Jigme, who is a grand little boy of 10 (8 according to our counting). HH has not changed at all, and is just the same charming man as before. I just stayed a couple of hours with him and then came away.

24th July, 25th July, 26th, 27th, 28th, 29th, 30th, 31st July. Halt Domkhar. These days have been a little trying, with lots of talk and lots of eating. But I have not got much of what I wanted to do done. In Domkhar are HH and the Maharani, Nahu, and little Jigme. Wangmo is in Lama Gomp and Pedmadechen in Wangcholing so I have not seen them. HH is very strict with all his people,

LSH/1/1/5/1/173 · Part · 1933-07-21
Fait partie de The Ludlow & Sherriff Collection
  • SUMMARY:
    Notes list plant collections from Tibdey La and record presenting HH with a wireless set that worked well. Tsonpen Tenduk went to Tibdey La and collected Lobelia nubigena; HH organized football and sports with a large tea party. A picnic included discussion of a forest scheme contingent on prices in Calcutta and agreement from lamas, with prices noted for Sealdah and Mathanjuri.

CONTENT:
P. tanneri 3477 - Tibdey La
Tibdey La
P. yargongensis 3487 (Upward 3488)

  • 28th July
    Rhododendron bulbulifolium 3479
    Codonopsis nervosa 3482
    Lobelia nubigena 3489
    Gent. elwesii 3480
    Bergenia ligulata to Tibdey La up to 16,000 ft.

I presented HH with the wireless and heard it one evening, when it worked very well indeed. [Tsonpen Tenduk went off on 27th to the Tibdey La to look for a giant lobelia or anything else which they could see that was new. They got the Lobelia (nubigena) and a few other quite interesting flowers.]

We had another game of football in pouring rain on 30th, and before the end, the ground was covered in water: but it was good fun. On 31st HH arranged to have sports, which included boxing, relay race, women's race, three legged race and high jump. It finished up with a race for the women of the local villages, and then HH gave a "tea party" - tea and rice - to everyone present, about 400. I then found that he had quietly been doing this and giving money to winners, in my name.

[We had a picnic on 29th, and while there I tackled HH about forests. At first he was not anxious to speak, but eventually he was persuaded or had persuaded himself and told me to take up the idea, depending only on whether Tobgye could get a good price in Calcutta, and whether the lamas would agree. He mentioned all this again when I left, and seemed really pretty keen on it. The two prices quoted to Tobgye seem pretty good. One is for Rs 30/- at Sealdah per ton of 50 cubic feet. The other is for Rs 22/- per ton at Mathanjuri. These work out to show a

LSH/1/1/5/1/177 · Part · 1933-07-21
Fait partie de The Ludlow & Sherriff Collection

SUMMARY:
Marched 7 miles to Sefu in persistent rain; Pritiman fell into a stream, soaking the rucksack. Presents and letters arrived from Lama Gompa and Domkhar, and later from Penlop Wangdi, with letters from HH and Naku; HH has sent another load. Tenduk rejoined after a long detour via Yundrucholing and Trongsa due to a washed-out bridge over the Wochen Chu, bringing a good collection of iris seeds from Punzor in the Mangde Chu valley.

CONTENT:
8th August. To Sefu. 7 miles. Rained all night: fine till 12.0 then rain all day. Tenduk never came back yesterday, and has not yet turned up. He must have found a bridge washed away, and has had to go back by Trongsa. I hope he has not been washed away too. More presents and letters arrived yesterday from Lama Gompa and Domkhar. I hope that is now all. Pritiman distinguished himself by falling into a stream today. He gets laughed at by everyone, but today he was by himself and no one would have known if he had only emptied the water out of my rucksack which he was carrying. The contents were not improved of course. Tenduk arrived at 7.0 pm, having walked from Trongsa today about 27 miles. On his way back from Punzor he found the bridge over the Wochen Chu washed away, so had to return to Yundrucholing and then round by Trongsa. (Iris decora? seeds - from Punzor, Mangde Chu valley) He has a very good collection of iris seed, which he found fully ripe and mostly thrown in the lower irises, but in good condition higher up, even unripe at their highest limit. I am very glad he is back again. He gives me the unwelcome information that still another load has been sent by HH for me. Three men came yesterday with presents from Penlop Wangdi and letters from HH and Naku. I thought all the present business was over. I'm glad

LSH/1/1/2/1/251 · Part · 1969-04-29
Fait partie de The Ludlow & Sherriff Collection

SUMMARY:
The diarist describes difficult seed and bulb collection of taxa 552, 553 (Nephelium lancifolium), and 554 on sheer cliffs near Main Thang, with Danong retrieving a few bulbs and pods. Preparations for HH's visit are widespread, with huts, rice, and livestock being assembled, and concerns raised about how HH will finance trips and use forestry resources, noting Bhutanese training at the Forest Department in Dehra Dun and Tobgye's efforts.

CONTENT:
S sends Kuntip to Main Thang to collect seeds Prim. eburnea

We could however not find one seed of 554, and although there were lots of seed pods of 552, most of them were last year's. However we collected about 30 heads. It grows in the most impossible places, on sheer cliff, just hanging on to 1/2" of moss, which is now absolutely dried up. I took a few of the plants of both 552 and 554. The lily (Nephelium lancifolium (553)) was even harder to get. We could see it nowhere at first, but eventually saw a few. Danong with great difficulty got three bulbs and two seed pods. A few others were seen, but we could not possibly reach them without a rope.

Preparations are everywhere in evidence for HH's visit. Huts are being put up for his men, rice is pouring in from all quarters, and the local official has 20 sheep and 6 pigs all ready as a present. What HH is going to do with all this stuff I can't imagine. And how he is going to pay for his trip is also difficult to see. This one may be alright, but this will lead to more, and the country cannot stand more, unless HH does something to enrich it. His easiest way is probably through his forests. Tobgye started off well by getting some Bhutanese trained in the Forest Dept at Dehra Dun. But HH makes no use of them. He must have in some British

LSH/1/1/2/1/187 · Part · 1933-09-19
Fait partie de The Ludlow & Sherriff Collection

SUMMARY:
The writer describes numerous relics and legends of the Guru along the route from Trashigong toward Dongkar, including caves, stones, and other notable features said to mark his journey from India. A mail bag is sent down with one of HH’s sepoys while they await word from HH about visiting Bumthang; if not permitted, they plan to go to Sakden for seed and bird collecting.

CONTENT:
92.

...how a house or gompa is built. There is a landslide across the valley here, and the piled-up earth and stones are full of caves and marks, all said to be due to the Guru. The house on top of the stone was built later and now contains images of the Guru and his two wives. This route from Trashigong up is, I believe, full of relics of the Guru's journey. A place just north of Trashigong has many such. Among others is a huge stone, said to be an egg of the eagle on which the Guru flew up from India. There are also, in tow, dragons, rocks from which springs burst at different places each year, dragons, and all sorts of other exciting things. Altogether, the Guru has very much left his mark between India and Dongkar at least.

Packed up a mail in a mail bag and spare sack and arranged for it to be taken down tomorrow by one of HH's sepoys. As we have not heard from HH to say we may come to Bumthang, we are beginning to feel that he would perhaps not have us this year, just before he goes down to India. If we decide not to go there, we will probably go to Sakden instead. There are good seeds to be collected there and birds too. It would be less trouble to us too. We might arrange to meet HH at...

(Marginal notes: Cine film 11 & 12 c, Contax film 9 & 10, F. Pack No 3 all

LSH/1/1/2/1/195 · Part · 1933-09-27
Fait partie de The Ludlow & Sherriff Collection

SUMMARY:
Halted at Lagnabi near Rocha Chu. Notes mail problems with parcels stuck at Kumarikhata and returned from Rangiya; sent Box No. 3 of flowers and some seeds by air mail. Plans to move to Sana, with Danang going to the Me La for seed; avoiding Bumthang at HH’s request and going to Sakden instead.

CONTENT:
96

Rocha Chu 28th Sept. Halted. Lagnabi.
Cirrhopetalum = Bulbophyllum wallichii 988
Bulbophyllum yokzunense 998

A mail arrived on 26th with several parcels. I rather think that all our mails from us have now been posted. I had a letter from Spencers in Calcutta saying that they had just received my letter of 28th June asking for 1200 cigarettes for the servants. Spencers thought that as this was such a long time ago they had better verify the order again. So no cigarettes were sent. But the latest trouble is that the P.O. at Kumarikhata cannot send foreign parcels, so that all our bird & flower parcels lie there in that beastly damp, hot atmosphere. The postmaster did his best, & sent off two parcels, but super efficiency in Rangiya apparently returned them. They love doing each other down.

Sent off a mail today, with it Box No 3 of flowers 751 - 869, & some seeds, the latter by air mail. We have about finished here now. Bar Pnoepygas & Tesias there are few birds, we have an excellent series of these. Sana will be the next move, & while we are there Danang will go up to the Me La & start off on seed. It will be a little early, but that can't be helped. HH would rather we did not go to Bumthang as he is busy getting ready for India. I am glad - that saves us a long walk. So we go to Sakden instead. A few of my photos were

LSH/1/1/9/1/13 · Part · 1949-07-30
Fait partie de The Ludlow & Sherriff Collection

SUMMARY:
The party delayed departure to meet HH, discussing a Treaty, M.K., and reports from Tobgye that the Sikkim Maharani had stirred Nepalis of Sikkim to oppose the Maharaja; they later dined and played games with HH and two Maharanis. They set off around 10:00 on a short, steep march behind Kunga Rapden, noting cultivation, forest edge and grassland, and several rhododendrons including R. arboreum, R. grande, and epiphytes such as R. edgeworthii and R. rhabdotum.

CONTENT:
9th April. Zangrapang. 5 miles. BP. 195.9° T. 61° 5.0pm. Ht. app. 9150'

This was a very short march, but we felt we could not leave HH until a time more suitable to royalty than our usual 6.0 am. So I said we would go when he was ready, that was 9.30. We had had a long & pleasant session with HH & on 8th. He came up again at 3.0pm & we had dinner at 7.0 & he left at 8.0. I talked to him again about the Treaty, & more about M.K. & the danger of getting mixed up with the intriguing of the Sikkim Maharani. He was aware of the danger there, more so because he had just heard from Tobgye that the Sikkim Maharani had induced the Nepalis of Sikkim & some others to go to the Palace to say they did not want the Maharaja, but wanted Indian Raj. This naturally made HH think very much. We later on had games with the two Maharanis & HH, & the greatest success was animal snaps, which so amused HH that we had to stop for fear he would do himself some harm through over laughing.

Today HH came up again to say goodbye, at 9.30, & we were off at 10.0. He was the same pleasant friendly & thoughtful man as always, & had thought out everything for us & our comfort on the road. The road was pretty steep, straight up behind Kunga Rapden, to the east. There is now a good deal of cultivation for about 2000' up, then the path goes along the edge of the forest, to a large area of grass. Round about here there were a number of rhodos. Rhod. arboreum is common, as is R. grande (18660) & some epiphytes like R. Edgeworthii, & rhabdotum,