Showing 9 results

SUMMARY:
Arrived at Trulung and rejoined Bill; a swarm of cliff-dwelling bees overran camp, stinging many and briefly incapacitating Joker before recovery. Hypsometer readings put the camp at 4917', contrasting with other sources, and plans were laid for Ludlow and Elliot to go to Tsela and Pemakochung while Bill visits Sobhe La and Namdu La before returning to Showa, with later work on the Gyala Range.

CONTENT:
2nd March. Trulung. A fine bright hot day. We got over the driving with no trouble & were in camp soon after 10.30, back with Bill again. Ludlow & Henry gave us all the news, & it was nice hearing everything again. The afternoon was somewhat spoilt by a mass of bees of the big kind that swarm on cliffs, coming over from somewhere & flying angrily about the camp. Many people were stung, & poor Joker was stung inside somewhere & completely laid out, unable to move for an hour or two. But he recovered in the evening.

3rd March. Halt. Fine, cloudy & bright. Stayed in camp & did photographs which have turned out pretty well on the whole. The height of camp site, as worked out from hypsometer readings is 4917'. Morehead 'assumed' it to be 5700' & on the new purple maps I see it is down as 5300'. I don't know if Ward took the height or not, as it is not marked in his map of the Riddle of the Tsangpo Gorges. Our various plans are becoming more definite now. I think Ludlow & Elliot will go to Tsela & Pemakochung about 20 April, leaving Bill to go to the Sobhe La & Namdu La before returning to Showa about 15-20 April, in time to get almost everything. Ludlow would be away perhaps a month & then return to work the Gyala Range while Henry would then go

SUMMARY:
The diarist describes sparse official presence across Tibetan towns, then records halts and short marches with bullocks en route toward Tsela Dzong. A pony carrying Ludlow and Elliot’s bedding goes missing and is later recovered; Sandup returns to Kyindong, and difficult road conditions near Risho require manhandling loads, with mention of skin ferries.

CONTENT:
There can be no other country which runs itself like Tibet. Since we left Gangtok we have not come across many officials in their place of business. The T.T.A. Yatung is hardly ever anywhere but in Kalimpong. There was a dzongpon in Phari. There was one in Gyantse. But there were none in Nangkarbe, Pede or Gongkar. The Nethong Dzongpon was in residence, and we have seen none since then.

3rd Dec. Halt. Very windy last evening, but clear and cold at night, with not a very low temp. No one appeared this morning early, but by 11.0 some 30 bullocks had come. The men are a pleasant friendly - several having been with us before both in 1933 and 1938 in Langong or beyond Kyindong Dzong. They remember us, apparently quite happily, and they even remember Jill. They are going to Tsela Dzong with us, and we should have no trouble when once away from here. The only troublesome people are the representatives of the Dzong. The village here is very poor, but they seem friendly enough.

4th Dec. Kamchang. Bullocks got off in good time, last party leaving at 8.0. We were in at 11.30 - it is a short march. But bullocks take a very long time. One pony with Ludlow and Elliot's bedding never arrived in. Kamchang is the lower of two villages, each only with a few houses. Pollarded walnut trees are much in evidence.

5th Dec. Halt. Again had to halt, this time owing to the lost pony. It strayed up a side valley 2 miles from here. Sandup has gone back to Kyindong. Pony came in late at night - or rather the bedding was brought in - the pony had fallen and hurt itself.

6th Dec. Camp 2 m. beyond Chongrong on S. bank, left at 7.30: in with bullocks at 4.30pm. Road very bad for bullocks in 3 places, the worst being 1 1/2 m beyond Risho, where all loads had to be manhandled for 100 yds over a cliff. There are 'skin' ferries at 1 1/2 m above Risho, -

SUMMARY:
Travel from Shoka to Tse via Milung in fine but windy weather with striking views of Gyala Peri and observations of waterfowl along the Tsangpo. A halt from the 13th to 17th included courteous dealings with the Dzongpon’s acting representative, with visits exchanged by Ludlow and Elliot and mention of the real Dzongpon, Shasur Taiji.

CONTENT:
picturesque, so the people have become much more obliging. They are away from the bad influence of civilization: they are honest, truthful and cheerful, there is little demand for money. What they want more is medicine. One only has to express a desire to have something and it is brought - if available. A number of 'half-Lobas' are taking their merchandise up the valley.

11th Dec. Shoka. Left at 7.30, in at 2.30. Even bullocks, which left at 5.30, were in by 3.0 pm. Clouded over in the morning. It cleared up by 9.0 and was really a most beautiful day. Wind got up very strong by 2.0 pm till evening. As we reached Milung, Gyala Peri came into view - a very fine sight. It was here in 1938 I caught a glimpse of it - the only one I had. Villages very picturesque, with one or two or more large houses loosely grouped. People most obliging and pleasant.

12th Dec. Tse. Left at 7.20: in at 3.30 pm. Mules kept ahead of us, but bullocks could not reach Tse. Again a beautiful day. Cleared up completely by 8.0 and Gyala Peri looked lovely all day long. A strong wind got up at 2.30. It is curious that this wind blew down the Tsangpo. It obviously habitually does so here, as the trees and dunes show, whereas everywhere else so far the usual wind is strong upstream. Saw two flocks of duck: shot one goose with .410 and saw a great many black-necked crane.

13th Dec. - 17th Dec. Halt. We knew we would have to wait here, and although the wait is longer than expected, it is worth it. The Dzongpon has been exceptionally kind to us. The real Dzongpon is Shasur Taiji, but he is not here. In his place is a very pleasant, quiet monk relative. Ludlow and I called on him on 13th and Elliot on 14th, while he came to call on us on 15th. We gave presents of 1 pr binoculars, saffron, D's photo, and

SUMMARY:
The page outlines detailed plans for forthcoming travel, assigning Ludlow, Elliot, and Bob to various routes and passes, with rendezvous dates through August. It records weather changes in late January and a move to Chara on the north bank of Yigong Tso, including a slow boat crossing with ponies and loads. Local sentiment against the soldiery is noted following a staged reception.

CONTENT:
NB
Plans

Our plans now are to rejoin, after we have been to Tona Dz, at Be on the 10th, then all go to Trulung where Bob will go to Gompo Ne, then follow East up the Trulung valley. Then to Lari for a few days and back to Tongkyuk by 15th March. After that we plan for Ludlow to go up towards the Nambu La, while we do the Tongkyuk and perhaps Tsunsabe and Soshela areas. Then by 15th-20th May, Elliot is to go via Tse La Dz to the Dujang La and Budi Soshela, returning by the end of July. Bob will go to Showa and work all available passes in May, June, and July: Ludlow works the Yigong Range. We all meet about here about August 15th to discuss the future. So much for our plans: we will see how they work out. We also think of leaving the country by two parties by the Doshong La and Chimdro La, but that all depends on local conditions and many other things, and can only be guessed at now.

29th-30th January. Halt. Very quick changes in the weather. 28th bleak and miserably cold, followed by two perfect days. Minimum temperature has varied in three nights 13° - 30° - 14° F! We hope to be off tomorrow morning for the Yigong Tso for a change. There cannot be much to collect there that is not here, but it will be nice to move again.

31st January. Chara, on Yigong Tso North bank. Beautiful day again. Transport only half came, but we got off at 9:00 and on to the trail at 11:00. It took us till 1:15 to get to the other end, round the bottom of the very steep hill. Two boats were joined together, though usually only one is used. In the two we had 5 ponies, about 15 loads of kit and 15 men. We could have taken a little more. Rowing is a slow job. I doubt if we went 2 miles, although it took over two hours. The lake looks deep, up till the West end where the silted up part starts. From there westwards the river wanders about from side to side in the sand. The soldiery here are very unpopular indeed, and perhaps to appease us, they staged a reception, all turning out lined to meet us, in full dress uniform, topis and all - a comic sight. I have talked with several locals, and all are unanimous that the soldiery are a curse. If they don't give the requisite amount of butter or whatever it is, soldiers come and

SUMMARY:
At Langstong the party endures cold, poor weather, sends Angur and Akong to scout a northern nala with little to collect, and notes the continued absence of Mohammed the mail runner. Stores are divided for multiple future legs, with a planned rendezvous at Tsela Dzong about 10th Oct. On 20 March, Ludlow and Elliot depart via Tsela Dzong to Gyala with assigned team members.

CONTENT:
to the south of Langstong. Here everything seems in much the same state as it was when we left in January. It is as cold too. Perhaps up the side valleys at 11,000' or so there may be more movement, so I am sending Angur & Akong up tomorrow for two days. Little could be heard about the valley S of Langstong. But Ramzana describes it as easy, with a good path & many cattle in it. A path goes right up the valley, over a pass & down to Trip. It is used by pilgrims who do a small circuit there. There is still no sign of Mohammed, our mail runner, who should have been here 2 or 3 weeks ago. I hope nothing has happened to him.

14-15th March. Halt. Cold & poor weather here now, with practically no sun at all. Angur & Akong went up the nala to the N. of camp. Found P. whitei cf. rhododendrata common close up the nala. They saw little else and no rhododendrons at all. There is certainly very little to collect these days. We spent all our time dividing out all stores — B & I for 6 months, Ludlow & Elliot for a 6 week trip followed by Ludlow 4 1/2 months & Elliot 2 1/2 months. These have all been packed up, as has a 6 week stock for our return journey from Tsela Dzong. We have agreed that we should meet there about 10th Oct. Then get out as quick as possible, probably in two parties. I got rid of a good deal of useless stuff today, including a complete B II boiler set, which we threw into the river — an awful thing to have to do, but there was no useful alternative.

16-17-18th March. Halt. Cloudy & windy, with little sun.

19th March. Ditto & rain each night & spitting almost all day.

20th March. Halt. Heavy rain at night & a very poor day. After a hectic time of division of stores & packing & storing of boxes, Ludlow & Elliot went off this morning for their six weeks trip via Tsela Dzong to Gyala & the top of the gorge. Parties are now decided. B & I have Kancha Tsongpen & Akong. Ludlow will have Samdup, Ramzana & Laku, & Elliot Angur & Balbahadur.

SUMMARY:
Notes on Kodachrome 17 images and specimens of Primula (notably P. whitei and P. atrodentata) from valleys near Pangotang and Tongkyuk. Film rolls were sent to Tsela Dzong, and seed lots were consigned to Ludlow and Elliot.

CONTENT:
Kodachrome 17

1. Quince No. 12271
2. • close up.
3. Yellowishness No. 12257. close up.
4. P. whitei. 16/3.
   5 & 6. P. whitei. No. 12299. P. whitei with P. bhutanica (same plant). 18/3.
5. No. 12257 with peach.

Primula whitei. No. 12291. Answers well to the key for Petiolaris. Plentiful in valley S. of Pangotang. Must be the same as specimens found in Rong Chu valley, Tongkyuk & Soshu ha. Nos. 12021, 12040, 12052.

P. whitei. No. 12297. Same as No. 12040.

P. atrodentata No. 12295. Tongkyuk Dz.

Kodachrome film (11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17) sent in 2 parcels to Tsela Dzong on 20th March.

Tongkyuk Dzong.
Seeds 8000 to Ludlow.

• 6200 to Elliot.
• 9200 to

SUMMARY:
Notes on pine species near the river and collection of Ward's lily bulbs; very cold by the bridge below Trongchu Dz. Halt days are spent in camp developing photos and unpacking a working thermograph, with views toward the Sobhe la; awaiting Ludlow and Elliot while the Dzongpon, a monk, is present, and more animals and kit arrive with a note from Ludlow.

CONTENT:
Pinus tabuliformis 12028
Armandii 12029
Tsuga dumosa 12030
P. whitei 12021

More of yesterday's Primula (12021). Ward's lily had a few seeds left and we took about a dozen bulbs. About one mile below Trongchu Dz, the local river is crossed by a bridge. It is very cold indeed down there, as only a very little sun reaches the river. Just before reaching the river, the same pine is met with as in the Tsangpo valley. The pine all the way down the Rong Chu is different, having 4 leaves in a sheath, instead of 2.

23rd Dec. Halt. Another perfect day, which we spent in camp doing odd things, developing photos and so on. No sign of Ludlow and Elliot, but a little more help has come in. The views everywhere here are really wonderful. We looked up the valley today, and caught a glimpse of the valley coming down from the Sobhe la. The Dzongpon is here and does not really take over till tomorrow. He is a monk. I unpacked the thermograph today, and was relieved to find that it worked. So many things have become broken in the last months, that I feared the worst.

24th Dec. Halt. Fine and clear still. Ten more animals in with kit and a note from Ludlow to say he does not expect to be here for a few days yet. We went up the

SUMMARY:
Entries describe travel from Dzong with snow conditions and a stay at Latsa, reports that Ludlow and Elliot spent 24 days shooting waterfowl, and notes of increased rain in the Tsangpo valley pleasing the Tsala Dzongpon. After halts and cold weather, Ludlow and Elliot depart on the 18th with Lepchas, Ramzana, and Balbahadur, while Samdup and Kancha remain with the diarist. On the 20th at Tse, the river level and wind patterns are observed, and a brief botanical note records rhododendrons in flower.

CONTENT:
14th April. Dzong. Some snow at night. We stayed in a house at Latsa, as we feared heavy snow which did not materialize. The house was clean, like all the houses in the valley, very big. It had a big central stone fireplace in the room we were in, so we had a good wood fire all the time. Snow got deeper as we went up over the top; there must have been 1 1/2 feet. There was not so much on the S. & we were soon out of it. Left at 6.30 & got in at 1.30 pm. Ludlow & Elliot have been here for 24 days. All they've had to do has been shoot game. They've got 25 geese & as many mallard, with a few shoveller & 2 spotbill. There has been much more rain in the Tsangpo valley than usual, & the Tsala Dzongpon is very pleased, as crops there should be specially good. Last year was almost a drought.

15-16 April. Halt. Rain in night & nearly all day of 15th. Very cold for this altitude.

17-18-19 Ap. Ludlow & Elliot left on 18th & had a perfect day to go on, without a cloud in the sky, after a clear cold (min 24°) night. All the Lepchas went too, with Ramzana & Balbahadur. The 'trouble makers' - Samdup & Kancha are going with me. Ludlow should now have no more trouble: I doubt if he will even when Samdup returns. It is a pity about our servants. If only we could have got some other than Samdup & Kancha, the whole party would have been happy, that makes all the difference.

20th Ap. Tse. Back here again. The river is, to my surprise, rather smaller than in December. It must in fact be at its minimum now. Wind continues the same - upstream as far as the Gyamda junction, & downstream to the junction. B & I went up the Tse valley today, but only saw the same things as elsewhere. P. chungensis (not in flower) Rhod. vellereum 12393 in very fine flower & another Rhod 12388 fairly common. R. vellereum is in masses in the Gyamda valley, & all along the hillside on the N face.

SUMMARY:
The diarist notes failed banana trees in Dongkar, widespread illness, and persistent bad weather during a series of halts while collecting birds. They visit Denchan Gompa, hunt game birds with local shikaris, and criticize Elliot’s contribution. Bill visits Yigong Tso and learns from the Be Gyimpon of a summer route to Tongkyuk over the TRESUR LA; Ludlow departs for Suowa with companions.

CONTENT:
to collect bush birds. Yesterday I was very surprised indeed to see banana trees growing beside a house above camp, in Dongkar. There were about ten, but the owner said they gave no fruit here. Tseringpon, when he saw them, immediately said they were dead, because the leaves had all withered - a state he had not seen at home. Temperatures up there must drop to 10°F as a minimum. We have had 14°F here. Goitre is very prevalent here, syphilis very bad indeed - "very much worse than Bhutan" Elliot says. The whole place seems to be in decay generally.

20th Jan Halt. Again saw more banana trees, locally called 'tali loma'. Went to Denchan Gompa then into big side valley. Saw some crossbills & heard Crossoptilon.

21st Jan - 24th Jan. Halt. Weather very unpleasant indeed & every day the same. The tops of the hills are covered in clouds all day & night, & a very light snow falls, down to about 9000' or sometimes to 8000', all day long. We get glimpses of sun but never much. We have all tried to get game birds, & between us have seen or got monal, tragopan, blood pheasant & wood partridge. Tseringpon & Laku are the chief shikaris & most bloodthirsty. Elliot is a great disappointment. He won't turn his hand to anything; won't even carry a gun & have a crack at anything. His medical work is poor. He takes no interest in the illnesses of the locals, & just dishes out 2 pills to everyone. Our own people have little use for him. I don't know how he has the face to do as little as he does, after agreeing to come on this trip & turn his hand to anything.

25-26 Jan. Halt. On 25th it started to clear up & on 26 was beautiful, with hardly a cloud in the sky all day. This has been a very pleasant change, as except for the 19th we have had no bright sun, & snow every day all around us. Bill went up to the Yigong Tso to take photos, & had some very fine views. He saw the Be Gyimpon who confirmed that there is a summer road up from the valley behind Be, to Tongkyuk, over the TRESUR LA. The route is not fit for ponies. The name of the village 1 m W of Be is GYAGON.

27-28 Jan. Halt. Good weather finished very suddenly on 28th, the clouds coming up very fast after a clear morning. Ludlow went off to Suowa with Ramzana, Sandup & Tseringpon.