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SUMMARY:
Diary notes of travel from Srinagar to Kalimpong via Sialkot, Lahore, Calcutta and Siliguri, including a lorry breakdown, train fares, and logistics. Observes crown imperials, yellow crocus, and wild Tulipa stellata near the Banihal road, and lists presents for Bhutanese and Tibetans.

CONTENT:
24th April 1933. KALIMPONG. 4300' We left Srinagar 9.0 am on Tuesday 18th
on a lorry (1 1/2 ton) with Ramzana & Ahmad Sheikh. Banihal road
pretty good, with deep snow cuttings on north side. Some crown
imperials seen on north & a few yellow crocus on south. The
saffron beds were lovely, covered with the little wild Tulipa stellata.
Stopped the night at KUDH, about 60-65 miles from Jammu.
Reached Sialkot at 12.00 on 19th & stopped night in Residency.
Repacked ammunition & guns. Dined with Jock Scotland &
Burton. Lorry Srinagar to Sialkot - Rs. 30/-. Engaged another
lorry for Rs 33/- to Lahore, being considerably cheaper than
train fare with excess. After 10 miles one of the back wheels
came off with no warning. At the moment we were going slow
& were saved a crash. Found another lorry at 2.0 & reached
Lahore 5.30 pm. A spare axle was brought, but did not fit,
but was filed & hammered for 2 hours & then forced in. Left
Lahore 7.0 pm 20th & reached Calcutta 7.0 am 22nd. Spent the day
getting stores from Mazda, Lindsay St. & did well to get everything
for Rs 500/-. Left Calcutta 8.15 pm 22nd & reached Siliguri 6.30 am
23rd. Changed to narrow gauge, reaching Gielle Khola 11.0 am.
Kalimpong 1.0 on 23rd. Fares: 2 - 1st Cl. Lahore to Calcutta 245/-
Calcutta - Gielle Khola 83/-. Car to Kalimpong Rs 8/- each. Presents
brought for Bhutanese & Tibetans: Brocade, binoculars, necklaces,
heavily scented soap, scent, hats, papier mache lotus bowls, saffron,

SUMMARY:
Page records advances, monthly pay, and ration allowances for expedition staff, including a Tibetan blanket to be given at Yatung. Notes include multiple May payments, Changu’s dismissal and refund, and later disbursements at Bumthang and Phari.

CONTENT:
Engaged Danong son of Ribu at Rs 30 + 10 a month from 1st May, &
1 Tibetan blanket to be given at Yatung. ADVANCE PAID Rs. 40/-.
Ahmad Sheikh paid monthly pay of Rs 35/- for May & ration allowance
of Rs 10/- paid 1st May.
Ahmad Sheikh paid Rs 10/- 28th May.
Danong paid Rs 10 ration allowance for June on 18th May. Blanket Rs. 10.
Changu paid Rs 30 advance 20th May. Dismissed 29th May. Rs 15/- to be refunded.
Danong paid Rs. 10/- ration for July & Rs 30/- pay for June - 14.7.33 Bumthang.
Danong paid Rs 110/- = Ration Aug Sept. & Pay July Aug & Sept. Phari 1/9/33.
Pintso paid 120/- = Pay up to end Aug. + 40 baksheesh. A. Sheikh 10/-
Ahmad Sheikh paid Rs 10/- rations for September.

SUMMARY:
Rain in Yatung limited collecting to a few rhododendrons and a viburnum, and ponies were arranged for travel to Gangtok amid staffing issues due to Williamson’s wedding. The next day the journey from Yatung to Tsomgo crossed the Natu La in mist and soft snow, with a small avalanche observed and a pony falling.

CONTENT:
of much the same style as the Kashmir houses, but ever so much more pukka-built. The Tibetans we meet are all very cheerful, & invariably greet one by taking off their hats & salaaming.

17th May YATUNG. Rained most of the day, & after two & a half hours on the hill behind the bungalow we only got one bird. Took R. cinnabarinum (L&S. 748), R. cephalanthum (L&S. 9), a few rhododendrons & a viburnum V. cordifolium (L&S. 10). Arranged for ponies (three) for Gangtok. I take Ahmad Sheikh with me, & therefore Ludlow is left without a cook. He wired Williamson for permission to use the chowkidar while I was away & got the helpful answer that he had no objection provided the B.T.A agreed. The B.T.A is in Gyantse. In fact W's wedding is a perfect curse.

Sherriff returns to Gangtok for Williamson's wedding.

18th May. TSOMGO. 22 miles. 11 hours. It was a lovely clear morning in Yatung, so I left at 6.15 & decided to cross the Natu La while the going was good. Ahmad Sheikh & I each rode a mule, while our bedding was on a third one. Up to Chushithang it was lovely & the view perfect. As we reached the pass the clouds came down, & actually on the top we were in thick mist. The track was easy so far, though there is still nearly as much snow as when we crossed before. On this side there appeared to be the same amount of snow, & it was very wet & soft. A short way this side of the pass, a small avalanche passed about 10 yds in front of me, & when I stopped to watch it, I heard that the last pony had fallen. It had been caught in an even

SUMMARY:
The writer records taking a group photo as the party prepares to split, listing members and discussing conflicting reports about the Tobrang–Pang La route, with Golay warning it is impassable for mules and plans to send Petuk back with them. On the 10th they collected 19 birds and prepared potted flowers for travel, and on the 11th August they marched 11 miles to LAO (11,200'), aided by Tibetans when coolies were short, with misty weather and an owl collected.

CONTENT:
As our party will be splitting up soon, I took a group photo yesterday of everyone: there were F.L., self, Ahmad Sheikh, Rauzana, Ba Kingsa Puntso, Danong, Kusho, Tenduk, Kurtep, Menchung, Petuk (syce), Golay (dak), Dotila (HH's sepoy) and two mules of Torgues'. Reports of the road from Tobrang via the so-far unknown Pang La varied a great deal, but were generally that it was not too bad. But Golay, who brought our mail the other day, came from Singhi Dzong that way, and reports it to be awful, and quite impossible for mules. So we will have to send Petuk back with them when we can use them no further.

10th: Today it has rained off and on most of the day, but we have been out for some hours and collected 19 birds, many of which are valuable. Our collection of birds is probably even now worth £200, the amount promised by the Museum, which we have not yet accepted. I am taking three flowers from here in pots - a primula, an androsace and a gentian, but I fear they will hardly survive the bumping rough treatment of the road.

11th August. To LAO. 11 miles. 11200'. Fine till after arrival in camp at midday. Only 20 coolies turned up to time, but others arrived later, and we were saved by some Tibetans who came to the rescue. Mist low all day, and no views. No flowers, but shot an interesting little owl and a few other birds. Although

SUMMARY:
In cold, misty conditions at Narin Thang near Kang La, the party struggles to keep warm and take flower photographs while several staff suffer foot injuries, including the mail runner, Kusho, and Tenduk. On 23rd Aug, after food poisoning from Ahmad Sheikh’s apple dumpling (which Ludlow avoided), the writer went towards the pass and bagged seeds and seedlings of Primula eburnea; a brief note mentions mail arriving on the 24th and an entry for the 26th Aug.

CONTENT:
any interest. We spent most of the day trying to keep warm, and in cutting each other's hair with some success. I'm getting more used to taking flower photographs in these misty conditions, and got two more good ones today. Our staff are a bit past worn. The mail runner came in with a very deep but clean cut in between his toes, made by a cut off bamboo. Kusho has a bad poisoned foot, got from walking barefoot. Being a Tibetan he is not used to that, but had to do two days over the Pang La, as his long boots were worn out. He now wades about in an old pair of my shoes. Tenduk has a septic big toe which looks very painful, but he gets along quite well.

Narin Thang
Kang La
23rd Aug. Comparatively fine in the morning, but raining hard with dense mist since 11:00 am. Can't get a photo taken of two new flowers in this. Spent a miserable night. Ahmad Sheikh poisoned me pretty thoroughly with some apple dumpling, which Ludlow was wise enough to leave. However I went up towards the pass, and put bags on

Prim. eburnea
P. eburnea to collect seeds in. I tied on 25 small and 13 large bags, over a total of about 80 heads of fading flowers. Also brought away some seedlings, and hope between them to get something home.

26th Aug. Our last mail arrived on the 24th and then

SUMMARY:
The writer describes Tibetan superstitions, particularly the aversion to shooting hares due to their donkey-like ears. After delays at Lala and slow transport with yaks and donkeys, they arrived late at Towa, where a curry made overly hot by Ahmad Sheikh left Ludlow unable to eat, though strawberries and cream from H.H. were excellent.

CONTENT:
for thinking that this was a good moment, was because
all over Tibet this year the crops have been good. They have
many superstitions these people, one is always coming
across them. I don't think any of the local people would
mind us shooting in the least: but they would hate to
see us shoot a hare. There are many reasons for this,
one of which is that the hare has ears like a donkey,
and a donkey is a much valued animal. Our
arrival at Towa was really most amusing - not at the
time, but after we had had a day to think it over.
Owing partly to the delay in changing transport at
Lala, and partly to the fact that we had yaks and donkeys
among the transport, we did not get in till 7.0 pm.
We had breakfasted as usual at 5.0 am and had had
practically nothing since then. So we were very hungry
and ordered, to save time, tinned soup, curry and rice and
a tin of strawberries which H.H. gave us, and one of cream
also H.H.'s present. The soup was rotten stuff, and we
looked forward to a real tuck in of curry. But Ahmad
Sheikh had put the chillies and powder in with a very
unsteady hand in the dark, and it was so hot Ludlow
could eat none at all. I managed a good deal, but
felt it for a long time afterwards. The strawberries and
cream were really excellent. When we arrived

SUMMARY:
The diarist travels by lorry from Srinagar to Kud, notes heat and crowded lodging, and lists team members Ramzana, Ahmad Sheikh, and Gulla. The journey continues to Lahore in extreme heat, with a near fuel shortage, before boarding the Calcutta mail and using ice to keep Lumiere films cool.

CONTENT:
13th June, 1934. KUD. Left Srinagar by lorry at 7.15 am & had a good run down to Kud. No signs of the monsoon even Kud being pretty hot, although well over 5000'. Kud bungalow very popular: we first had a room each, then moved in together to make room for two females: finally slept out on the verandah, as a married couple turned up. Lorry to Lahore cost Rs. 60 + tolls of Rs. 30. This year we are taking with us this year Ramzana & Ahmad Sheikh & Gulla too. Gulla has learnt skinning fairly well.

14th June. Lahore. Left at 5.15 am & had a good run down to Lahore, which we reached at 2.15 pm. But the lorry driver nearly gave us a lot of trouble by running out of petrol. Another lorry luckily came along soon & gave us some spare. All the way today was very hot indeed, Lahore being 116°. Caught the Calcutta mail at 7.0 pm & loaded our compartment with kit & two bath tubs each with 80 lbs ice in them. I was particularly anxious to try to keep a box cool in which I have all my Lumiere films. So I put one bath tub full of ice on top of it, & I think it kept cool enough. The max. temp in the compartment was 110°, minimum 85°, even with the ice.

SUMMARY:
Itemized payments and advances including dak runners and postmen at Trashigong, customs duty, coolies, luggage, and railway tickets via Sealdah and Siliguri, plus car, lorry, and other travel to Gangtok, Calcutta, Rawalpindi, and Srinagar. Personal disbursements include payments to Kuntip, Pintso, Danong, and Ahmad Sheikh, along with purchases such as a watch for the postmaster, sparklets, a Roorkhi chair, bacon, and cotton wool and flour.

CONTENT:
14.10. Pay for Trashigong Dak runners. x 40.

Pay Kuntip Rs. 70. x 70. Balance ex 2000 cash = 40
" Pintso Rs. x 250 " ex A. Sheikh adv. = 20
" Danong Rs. x 150

Additional to postmaster. Rs. x 58

Pay T'gong postmen 2nd month x 40 + A. Sheikh pay 270
P.M. K'khata for Customs duty on parcel. x 25 Coolies pay 240
Dak runners K'khata. x 20 510
Luggage Rangma x 207 4591
Servants tickets Sealdah. x 14 5101
Own tickets Siliguri. x 62 Ramzana 270
Pintso etc. " x 15. 5371

3 Boxes to Cooks. Calcutta x 7
Ahmad Sheikh advance for travel x 100
Car to Gangtok. x 60
Tickets to Calcutta. x 78.
Tickets to Rawalpindi. x 268
Lorry to Srinagar. x 60
Watch for Postmaster. 1524
930
2032
5 doz sparklets. 44 / 157
Roorkhi chair. 20
Bacon 23
Cotton wool & flour 11
1624.

SUMMARY:
Notes list packing and equipment requirements including custom lightweight boxes, camera gear, medicines, spirits, clothing, and a soldering outfit. Mentions fitting Ahmad Sheikh's oven into a chop box and providing a small bedding roll for Damong.

CONTENT:
Suggestions: -

Most Kashmir yakdans are too big & heavy; have boxes made of 3-ply wood as Museum chop boxes but stronger, or a little larger.

Ahmad Sheikh's oven to be made to fit exactly inside a chop box, other things inside it.

All made-up boxes for flowers or birds to be cut the same size if possible.

Small bedding roll for Damong.

Try ironing flowers in drying paper.

Cameras: 1: Leica + filter x (or lighter) + portrait attachment / 2: New small Bell & Howell, 3: 1/4 pl. Una + Lumiere Filmcolor. Walking stick stand for small telephoto 20".

Medicines: 500 Quinine Bihydrochloride, 500 Genasprin. Case containing 12-18 screw-top bottles, all same size, labelled on top of lid.

Spirit. Instead of large Museum case, small box containing about 8 sweet bottles ("Kellner's Bullseyes or Acid drops").

Clothes: 1 thin coat, 1 wind coat, 2 cardigans, 2 shorts, 1 jodhpurs, 1 breeches, 5 socks, 2 stockings, 2 vests, 1 pants, 2 thin shirts, 1 thick shirt, scarf. Waterproof. Gloves or mittens. Army & Navy pattern.

Fluxite soldering outfit.

SUMMARY:
Record of wages and advances paid to several individuals, with entries noting money orders and settlement dates in 1934. Mentions an advance by Tobgye and identifies Danong as Lepcha, son of Ribu. Location given as the Cinchona Plantation at Mungpoo in the Darjeeling District.

CONTENT: PAY etc.

Ahmad Sheikh. Paid Rs. 150/- from April 1st on May 6th. 235 on 1.12.34. = Paid to 31.12.34.
Gulla. Pay Rs. 90/- = May, June, July. 210 on = Paid to 30.12.34.
Danong. X Paid Rs. 50/- on May 23 by M.O. Rs. 10 Tsuna. 13.8. Rs. 50 28.9. Rs. 150/- 14.11.34
Pintso. X Paid Rs. 50/- Advance by Tobgye 9.6.34. Paid Rs. 250/- 14.11.34
Kurtip. X Paid Rs. 20 on 20.9. in Dib La (+ Rs. 5.1.10.) + Rs. 75/- Paid in full. 5.11.34.

Danong Lepcha son of Ribu. other Lepcha.
Cinchona Plantation.
Mungpoo. Darjeeling District.