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SUMMARY:
Page records hypsometer readings with times and dates for 1938 at various locations, including passes and a camp. Notes include adjustments such as “Add 50 ft.” and “300' below summit.”

CONTENT:
(1938) HYPSOMETER READINGS. (Indian Standard Time.)

1. LALUNG. 200.2° ✓ 65° 2.0 p.m. 27/4 26. MIRA LA. ✓ 184.0 50° 9.0 a.m. 16/8 Add 50 ft.
2. KARGONG LA 196.1 ✓ 60 3.0 p.m. 10/5 27. LUSHA LA. ✓ 186.2 41 11.0 a.m. 19/9. 300' below summit.
3. LANGONG. 190.8 ✓ 58 11.0 a.m. 27/5 28. MOLO. ✓ 193.0' 56 1.30 p.m. 14/4
4. CHIANANG 189.0 50 11.30 a.m. 3/6 29. RA LA (Pukso). 183.0° 48° 18/10.
5. Camp below CHUBUMBU 189.8 55 3.0 p.m. 6/6 30.
6. CHUBUMBU LA 18

CONTENT:
days, when the rate to Phari was Rs 6/12 a mule & Rs 5/12 a mule. We are now paying a flat rate of Rs 6/- & have 25 mule loads (25 pack mules + 4 riding mules). We saw Shipton & Tilman, who were staying with the Odlings. Also Crawford who climbed a good way up Chomolhari with Chapman. Tobgye & Chuni were very kind to us, & did us very well indeed. Jigme had to go off with his Mother to Calcutta to have his tonsils out. On several nights we opened up the wireless & tried it, & it is most successful. Whether it will stand up to mule transport or not is another question. We have had fine weather, but cloudy all the time. But Gangtok as usual was wet & unpleasant.

22nd Feb. To Ari. 7 miles. A beautifully clear day, not too hot, but the valleys are full of blue smoke, from jhooming. We had no pass to enter Sikkim, but the police at Pedong were very reasonable and only made us sign a statement. The road is rather trying down to the valley, over bad cobble stones. I walked today, & feel much the better of the exercise. In Rhenock I met R.S. R.B. Pradhan of the Chandra Nurseries & Faqir Chand the State Engineer. The latter had for the first time got his car - a 7 hp. Austin - up to Rhenock, and in it had low

SUMMARY:
Notes record Primula gracilipes as common above and below Lingti and east of Jelep La at about 11,000 ft. Ludlow S. remarks that the Amo Chu River would make a wonderful trout stream and envisions the Chumbi valley as a fine hill station with a road through Bhutan up the Amo Chu.

CONTENT:

3580. Primula gracilipes. Common above & below Lingti.

3580 Prim. gracilipes. Common on E of Jelep La at about 11000 ft.

Ludlow S.
What a wonderful trout stream the Amo Chu River would make. I can see trout of prodigious size lurking in its beautiful pools.

Ludlow S.
What a magnificent hill station the Chumbi valley would make with a road through Bhutan up the Amo Chu.

SUMMARY:
The party marches from Kupup to Yatung over the Jelep La in heavy snow, with difficult mule transport and botanical notes on Primula gracilipes. In Yatung they deal with a customs issue over cigarettes, receive mail from Gyantse, trace missing kit sent from Ha, meet a Subedar, and dine with local contacts.

CONTENT:
...a few common orchids. Tseringpen wants to take a press tomorrow, in case we come across anything in the primula line.

24th Feb. Kupup. 13 miles. Fine in the morning, but clouded over by 10 am. The rest of the day there was a heavy snowstorm, with rain and thunder in the valleys. We had intended to stop at Gnatong, but snow was heavy then, and we thought we might not reach the pass next day, so went on. I walked all the way, and was very tired indeed when we got in, as the climb is from 6500' to 13000', with some up and down thrown in. Went to bed early with a splitting headache. Near Lingti Primula gracilipes was just coming into flower, but the scapes hardly showed at all. Cleared up after dark.

25th Feb. Yatung 18 miles. Very fine morning, though the valleys were full of cloud. We were a bit late in getting off, and transport reached the Jelep La about 10.30 am. Snow not very much, but an icy path down this side made the going very hard for the mules. Muleteers wanted to stop in Rinchengang, but we persuaded them to come on here, where they reached about 4.30. Found more Primula gracilipes (3580) on the way down. As soon as we got in, two people came to see us, so we could not have our tea, then Norbhu's son and the head clerk also came. The head clerk was more concerned about two loads of cigarettes which were among our muleteers' things. As there is a strict order against importing them, there was some trouble. We had promised the Khampa mule owners to take these up as our own. All our people seem fit and David is quite happy.

26th Feb. Yatung. Halt. Fine all day. Got a good mail, sent back from Gyantse. Spent the day in writing letters, seeing the Subedar of the Det. 1/15th Punjab Regt., and dining with Norbhu's wife and Charles Marbleu. In between we tried to find out what had happened to our kit which was sent on by tonga, that from Ha. Eventually heard from Phari that the Ha kit was there, but they knew nothing of any other loads. Sub. Maryam Singh is a great talker and we know most of his life history before we left. Dinner with Norbhu's wife was rather a trial, though she, Charles and Charles' fiancée are all nice. We had English-style

SUMMARY:
Notes record aquatic plant specimens near Lingmathang and observations of Primula sikkimensis above Gautsa. The writer considers a fish ladder around a waterfall above Gautsa, mentions fatigue and sneezing from cold wind, and reports shooting a mallard, pintail, and teal at the hot springs.

CONTENT:
4A

3581 Ranunculus? In stream flowing through Lingmathang.
3582 Equisetum sp? In spring water to W. of Lingmathang.

Ludlow 6
What a magnificent stairway
round the Lingmathang plain
would make but the waterfall
above Gautsa would have to
be outflanked by a winding
channel or ladder for the fish
could not descend in its
present state

Primula sikkimensis common above Gautsa till above the tree zone.

Ludlow 7
I was very tired. The cold
wind in my nostrils gave me the
usual sneezing fits and a
running nose

Ludlow 7.
I shot a mallard, a pintail
and a teal at the hot springs.

SUMMARY:
Diary notes cover travel from Gautsa to Phari, Tuna, and Dochen, dealing with delayed transport, missing supply boxes, and assembling a large mule caravan. The party notes an evening earthquake, listens to the Scotland–Ireland match result from Murrayfield, and reports strong winds, clear views of Chomolhari, and a telephone call to Gyantse.

CONTENT:
4

instead of Tibetan, it was overdone. There must have been eight courses or even more. The poor fiancée had great trouble with her food, probably the first time she had had any that way. There was a small earthquake in the evening. We were just in time to hear the last five minutes of the Scotland-Ireland match at Murrayfield and get the result.

NB 27th Feb. To Gautsa. 12 miles. Transport very late in starting and was not off till 9.30 am. Fine day. On the way up we passed some yaks, on them I saw boxes labelled Harrods. Later on I noticed my own name, and these boxes turned out to be Harrods stores, which were sent on a month ago, and should have been in Gyantse long ago. Nothing we said upset the yak men, and they fully intended to go to Phari only on the 1st March. But they now promise to get there tomorrow. Very little life on the way up. Lingmathang is a beautiful meadow, but dried up and brown now. Saw signs of a gentian above Lingmathang.

28th Feb. To Phari. 17 miles. After a bad night of wind and some snow, today was perfect, with bright sun and very little wind. Chomolhari was clear of cloud till the evening, then cleared after an hour or two. We got our Harrods boxes on here, found Pintso waiting for us, but no Tenduk. We also found my very important Ha box had not been sent on here. These are both serious, but we hope can be put right before long. From now on we have a terrific caravan of mules.
6 riding ponies & 35 pack mules

1st March. To Tuna. 21 miles. Fine morning, slowly clouding over. Wind rose at 10.0 am and was very strong and cold all day, but in our backs, thank goodness. We got off in good time. 17 loads were sent through to Gyantse, while the rest came with us. The rate for everything is Rs 8/4 to Gyantse. Jibi walked all the way and is feeling very tired this evening, and a bit footsore. Chomolhari looked lovely the whole march, as we gradually came round it.

Extract from Tuna Bungalow book. — "On a specialist's recommendation, a Poona man came on vacation. He said 'I'd far sooner have Poona than Tuna, it seems a more lively hill station.'"

2nd March. To Dochen. 14 miles. Fine all day but very windy. Views of Chomolhari wonderful, especially in the evening. We telephoned to Gyantse this afternoon and got the P.T.O. to open.

SUMMARY:
Note records Prim. Pygmaeorum just emerging beside warm springs on a grassy bank.

CONTENT:

3583. Prim. Pygmaeorum. Just coming out beside warm springs on grassy bank.

SUMMARY:
The diarist records a cable from Taylor about plans to arrive in Calcutta on April 2, then details travel from Kala to Gyantse with strong winds and dust storms, wildlife sightings and shooting, and use of the wireless. Mail reports from Wright Smith on the 1937 primulas, and upon reaching Gyantse they call on Richardson, Dr Morgan, Colbourne, Hudson, and receive a friendly visit from Tendong.

CONTENT:
NB read a cable from Taylor "Passed Doctor. Absence extended December. Arrive Calcutta April 2nd."
That is one thing now settled. Ludlow went out at the hot springs with his gun, and got 1 teal, 1 pintail and 1 mallard. I sent Punso out here with the .22 rifle and he hit 3 geese but got none. Very cold in the evening, clouded in the North.

3rd March. To Kala. 12 miles. A perfectly fine day. Even when we left at 7:30 the wind was very strong, and we finished in a filthy dust storm. Rham tso frozen all over this end, but a good many duck and geese seen. The river connecting the Rham tso and the Kala tso was quite dry, a most unusual thing. By 1:00 pm clouded all over. We had the wireless out last night, and it was as good as could be wished for.

4th March. To Samoda. 14 miles. Fine, with no wind while we crossed the Kala plain. Even in the evening there was little, a great relief after yesterday. We saw a big herd of kiang on the plain and got a telephoto cine of them. 18 gazelle were too nervous. Above Samoda at the springs were some duck, and one obliging solitary snipe. Ludlow and I had 3 shots at it with the catapult, then Tsompen got it on his second shot.

5th March. To Khangma. 14 miles. A beastly day, wind very strong, with dust storm. Tsompen shot a merganser, Ludlow missed 8 mallard with dust shot .410 and then got 3 partridges with one shot. Jill (dog) rather happier today and her feet not so sore. David has been feeling the height and wind, and having bad headaches, but he seems alright today and much happier.

6th March. Saugong. 14 miles. Fine day, cleared up late at night. Mail came in about 8:00 pm. Wright Smith has now settled all points about my 1937 primulas, with the possible exception of 3301 which he thinks is P. chasmophila. Seeds have germinated, and I expect he will wait till they flower. Saw more duck and partridge on the way and shot 1 partridge, when five burhel got up.

7th March. Gyantse. 15 miles. A very strong wind all day, which caused a dust storm all over the Gyantse plain. Arrived at 12 noon. Called on Richardson, Morgan the doctor (16 B.T.A.) and the two B.O.'s (O.C. 16th Detachment) Colbourne and Hudson. Tendong, now Jongpen of Gyantse, one of Ludlow's old pupils came to call on us, and was most friendly. He is very dirty to look at, but a good soul, and very...

SUMMARY:
He saw young Tibetan partridges on the road to Tsangpo and shot one with a catapult. They did not take their guns out as it is not advisable to shoot on the main Lhasa highway, and an altitude of approximately 14,400 ft is recorded.

CONTENT:
Ludlow 12. He saw young Tibetan partridges on the road to Tsangpo. Shot one with his catapult. We did not take our guns out of our cases. It is not advisable to shoot on the main Lhasa highway.

Ludlow 13 alt. 14,400 ft approx

SUMMARY:
The party halts in Gyantse amid bad weather, attends meals with local contacts, handles repairs and correspondence, and exchanges currency; they hear by wireless that Germany has invaded Austria. They then march to Gabshi, Ralung, and Nangartse with cold, snowy conditions over the Karo La, noting altitudes, distances, and a tidy visit to Williamson’s grave.

CONTENT:
genuine.

8th - 13th March. Halted in Gyantse. Rotten weather all week, with a gale of wind during the day, which raises a dust storm. We have seen a good deal of Tendong, who has been most helpful, getting us little concessions which make all the difference to our comfort ahead. Repairing shoes, kit and dealing with correspondence. On 13th March we heard on our wireless that Germany had invaded Austria - Lhasa !!

14th March. To Gabshi. 16 miles. alt. 13,700' approx. A fine morning, after two bad days in Gyantse when it snowed on all the hills round about. We stopped at Tering's house and had lunch and a good long talk. They are a nice family. Only the old pair, and Jimmie and his wife were there. When we came out, the day was rotten, very cold, clouded over, and remained so all day. Tents are cold but not too bad, as here the wind is not high. We are all very glad to get away from Gyantse, though everyone was very pleasant there. We all dined together on the 8th, and all lunched together at Tendong's on the 10th. Then we had Sunday supper again in the Mess our last evening. Richardson was most helpful and seems a nice man. The Doctor, Morgan, is more independent than any of the others, and we both liked him, as also Colbourne Hudson, the two B.O.'s. We changed Rs 4000/- into the new silver Tibetan rupee, at the rate of Rs 300/- = T.Rs 500/-. That added considerably to the weight of our kit, but it was better than changing to copper, where Rs 200/- would be a mule load. I saw the graveyard one day, just to have a look at Williamson's grave. It is all very tidy and neat.

15th March. To Ralung. 16 miles. alt. 14,300 ft approx. Pretty cold last night, though not windy. This morning was lovely, with very little wind as far as Ralung, by which time it had clouded over. We could see Ningsingkangsa, but only in a very flat light. Nothing of interest seen in bird line. We are living in a 'house' here. It is not clean, but not bad as they go, only a little draughty. Tomorrow with 32 miles to go, we must be up early.

16th March. To Nangartse. 32 miles. Snowed most of the night. Two inches lying, till well over the Karo La. Left at 6.0 am - without shaving - in at 5.0 pm. Kit in at 5.30 pm. In spite of the hard night, it was a lovely day, the sun coming out at 7.0 am and remaining bright all day.