Showing 6828 results

SUMMARY:
The diarist reset a damaged aneroid using the known height of Singhi Dzong, endured rain, and recounts leech bites involving both the writer and Ludlow. On 18th August they went 2 miles to Narim Thang (13,900 ft), the path passing the Dzong through fir forest before a steep climb to the plateau with rhododendron but no fir.

CONTENT:
towering cliffs close in on all sides. We are just at the
end of the fir trees. Yesterday I dropped and displaced
part of the aneroid, but managed to get it right today:
only the readings will now not be continual, as I had
to reset to the known height of Singhi Dzong. A most
annoying thing to have happened. As soon as we
reached camp the rain came on hard, and it went on
all evening. Today I had what I hope will be
my last leech bite. He got through my long boots
somehow. When Ludlow saw it he rather laughed, and said I
should wear breeches, not shorts, then they wouldn't get at
me, and went on to say how lucky he had been with leeches.
However I had the laugh on him, as when he took his
boots and socks off, there was a fine fat one in his sock, which
had had its fill. A leech injects something first, to make the
blood run or keep it from coagulating, and this seems to
affect Ludlow more than me. It was some hours before the
bite stopped bleeding.

18th August. NARIM THANG. 2 miles. 13900'. Path passes the Dzong,
and keeps at first steep up through fir forest, some distance from
the Narim Thang river, on the R. bank. After 1/2 mile not so
steep, it climbs very steeply over open hillside to the
plateau of Narim Thang at m 2. Here there is ample
rhododendron wood but no fir. The plain of Narim Thang

SUMMARY:
The diarist travels from Changphu to Chumkarah and on to Pinshogong and Hach, crossing the Bhutan–Tibet boundary near Jangphu, aided by mules from the Trashigang Dzongpon. They collect more Albizzia sherriffii seeds, note fruit sent by the Dzongpon, observe otters, visit a new Dzong, and receive a warm welcome from Dzongpon Dopola while mail arrangements via Basu Pradhan remain unresolved. Weather is noted as improving after rain, with hot conditions in the valley.

CONTENT:
To Changphu
16th November, JAMGPHU. Rain yesterday evening and last night. Fine and bright today. Changed transport twice, but everything ready for us. It is a long climb up from the bridge to Jangphu, the last 2 miles being more or less level. Three mules were sent to meet us, but only for the level stretch, so we all had a good sweat. Hills much drier here, being barer and more cultivated. The boundary of Bhutan with Tibet is crossed 300 yards W of Jangphu — a small very insignificant little valley. Oranges I'm glad to say are ripe, or near enough so to be eaten, and are very good after a climb like today's.

To Chumkarah
17th November, Chumkarah. Clouded and a little rain at night: fine all day. We are getting almost too civilized now. People turn out to meet us, tea is produced by the roadside, and camping grounds are prepared. I would rather just be allowed to wander along. However it is nice to have the Trashigang Dzongpon's mules here to help us on our way. I have hardly ridden at all since we left Kalimpong in Feb. — only on 3 or 4 days for a short while. But here it is hot, and a mule will be very nice to have. Changed transport once again today.

I could not find the original tree of Albizzia Sherriffii, although I recognized the place, but took more seeds again today, so surely should have it by now. The Dzongpon sent some pears, bananas and oranges, which are just what the doctor ordered for this hot valley. I hear that there is still no mail in Trashigang, so again our arrangements have gone wrong, though why I cannot think. I wrote to PM Kumarikata Basu Pradhan in August, and Tobgye has forwarded our letters to the latter.

To Trashigong Dzong
18th November, Pinshogong. Fine and very hot. On the way, I spotted three otters having a great time in the river, always keeping together, and hunting for a few minutes, then joining up on to the hot sandy beach and rolling and playing about. Owing to a cliff I could not get very close, but took a tele-cine picture of them. Went and saw the new Dzong, which is a fine building and seems well designed. Then came on here about 3.0 pm, for a very warm welcome from the Dzongpon Dopola. Rained pretty hard at night.

19th November, Hach. Fine all day. Stayed in camp, and talked to the Dzongpon. He says the same

SUMMARY:
The page contains only the number 16.

CONTENT:
16

SUMMARY:
The writer treats a yakherd's child who broke his arm after falling from a sheep, applying a splint and dressing blisters. On 15 July they halt in thick mist and rain; Pasang and Gyundon also stay, men arrive from Pangstang with mules, there is no letter from Betty, and Ngudup cannot obtain information on the route. On 16 July they march to Namdating in persistent mist and rain via the Kyikyi Tsom La, descending between lakes at the head of the Chachuka valley towards the Tsangpo valley.

CONTENT:
to the Drolma Shöki La. It is much colder now than a month ago, and they will be pretty chilly when they come in. A woman came down from the yakherds upstream, with her child aged about 6. The poor kid had been riding a sheep (!) and had fallen off and broken his arm - about 3 days ago. It had been tied up with some moss, very tightly, which made things worse by strangling the arm and causing large blisters. I don't know what they had put on. I doubt if I did much good, but I put a splint on and dressed the blisters.

15th July. Halt. Thick mist and rain. Stayed in camp again, so did Pasang and Gyundon. We are all tired of this place, and will be glad to move tomorrow morning over the pass leading to the Tsangpo valley. Several men have come up from Pangstang, with I think the Druk Locha's mules, to graze above here. I hoped anyone coming up now might have brought a letter from Betty, but there is none. All coolies have turned up this evening. I still can't get any information about where we are going to. Someone must know, but Ngudup either won't or can't extract any useful information - the same difficulty as one always has on first going to a place.

16th July. Namdating. From 5:45 to 1:30 pm. Mist all day, rain on top. This was a queer march, and I'm not quite sure yet where we are. First we went up the valley opposite camp; over the side to the south to the next valley, down into that and steep up again to the Kyikyi Tsom La. The first pass would be about 15,000' and the Kyikyi Tsom La about 15,500. Then down rock scree and grass hillside to between two fine lakes at the head of what I had previously seen was the Chachuka valley. This is the one I went up on 1st July; the lower lake was the one I just

SUMMARY:
News from Trashigong reports daks were diverted via Neoli and handed to the wife of Babu Pradhan, who has kept them while Pradhan is away in Calcutta; a small mail is prepared to go next morning. The party moves camp to the west side of Dib La in heavy rain and mist, noting several primulas and Bryocarpum, and makes use of a log hut with prepared flats for tents.

CONTENT:
88
mail.

possible. News came from Trashigong that the daks or at least three of them had been found. They had had to go by Neoli, and there had been handed over to the wife of Babu Pradhan for some obscure reason. Pradhan himself was away in Calcutta so the bitch of a woman has kept them and refuses still to give them up. She must have had one of them for over 2 1/2 months. Packed up a small mail to go off tomorrow morning.

15th Sept. Camp below Dib La (west) 4 miles Ht 11527' (BP 191.6°)
Dib La.
Lil. nanum 959. Temp 52°. Heavy rain and thick mist all day
Prim. thibetica 960. long. Moved camp to the west side of the range
Prim. normanniana 961. which on the way up was better than the East.
One can't do anything in rain like this though.
There are quite a number of primulas on the
East side of the Dib La. I took plants today
of Winteri? (No. 1.) and another primula, both over
Bryocarpum. of course. Bryocarpum also grows in considerable
numbers there. I saw no signs of any other
primulas on the pass or below, though there
should be some, as the area must compare pretty
well with the Saden passes. There is a reasonably
good log hut here, and we have had small flats
prepared for our tents - not ideal but good enough for

SUMMARY:
After a 10-mile march to Menjisi in windy weather, the writer receives letters from Betty via Trinley and notes serious delays to H.H.'s stores sent from Lhuntse, affecting travel plans to Bumthang. Kapo is treating many syphilis patients with limited drugs, while reports mention Tshering doing well, Hicks being tired, the finding of P. Normaniana, a planned route via Ungar and Pimi, concerns from Tobgye about the Treaty and the Maharaj Kumar, and news from Norman regarding a problematic sale to Mintri.

CONTENT:
15th May Menjisi. 10 miles. Wet in the night, but fine today locally and with a very strong wind. I had a long talk with Kapo yesterday, who came in the morning and again for dinner. He gave me a letter from Betty, brought by Wangmo's Trinley. Incidentally H.H.'s large box of stores, sent off from Lhuntse on 4th to Betty, had only got 1 day's march from Lhuntse by May 11th. I don't know what had happened. That has held up other things too, as H.H.'s man cannot return to Bumthang till he has an answer from Betty. Kapo seems to be busy with his syphilis patients, who are a great many. But he finds difficulty in keeping them in Lhuntse. Also he cannot get other drugs for H.H. for other diseases. I gave him what I could spare. It was grand to hear again from Betty, though her letter was written some time ago. They seem to have done fairly well, and have also found P. Normaniana. Tshering doing well, and Hicks seemingly tired. I hope he can stand it all. We left at 5:15 this morning and got in about 10:30. This is a much better division of the marches - Lhuntse, Menjisi - Ungar - Pimi, and I must tell Betty to do the same. We passed another dak today and took ours out on Betty's unopened. This was a bigger one and was sent from K'pong on 29th April. I had several letters from Tobgye, worried about the Treaty and also the Maharaj Kumar's behaviour to him. He has not been at all kind, and his behaviour towards Tobgye is disgusting and disgraceful. I hope now that he will not get Kaysang, who is far too good for him. Norman's letter says that he is off, and he also thinks there may be difficulty about selling Crocket to Mintri, who is a slimy individual. Among other things sent to me is a will which I witnessed many years ago. It is sent in original, and I have to

SUMMARY:
The diarist describes very tall pines and junipers, birches and oaks, and notes the striking jade-green colour of the Po Tsangpo river. On 14th Jan. near Sangyü, Ludlow and Henry took the pony path while the diarist and B. followed the riverside through dense wet forest with massive junipers, passing Rhododendron trees near Chahzam and old cultivated flats with ruins said to have been destroyed by the Chinese in '12.

CONTENT:
Cupressus torulosa 12141
Cedrela 12142

43

flower line. The only interest is in the trees, which grow to enormous heights. Some of the pines - (P. tabulaeformis) must be nearly 200 feet. And near here there are really magnificent junipers which are certainly 200 feet and straight as a rod. Camp here very poor, beside the 'spring'. Birches also are fine on this march, and there are many oaks. The colour of the Po Tsangpo river is very fine indeed, copper sulphate (pale 'deep jade green') exactly. Both rivers are the same now. Left at 8.30. In at 2.30.

14th Jan. SANGYÜ. Left at 9.0 : in at 2.0. Ludlow and Henry went the pony path, a climb of 1000 feet. B. and I kept to the river side. Both tracks are not easy. Both were curiously uninteresting botanically and ornithologically. At first the forest was mostly dense wet forest, with magnificent specimens of Juniper, measuring up to 20 feet in circumference. We passed, about 1 mile from Chahzam, about a dozen Rhododendron trees, the same as seen on the Pan above Trulung. I heard today Monal for the first time. Here there is a large flat area, old cultivation, with old ruined houses, destroyed by the Chinese in '12. There is a hut and

SUMMARY:
Diary entries describe a difficult march through dense, muddy rhododendron jungle with steep ascents to Pang La (c. 14,000') and a descent to camp near SAWANG, followed by a steep drop to a bridge over the Khoma Chu and an easy ascent along the river to SAWANG. Plant collecting at Pang La yielded few notable finds, and the day was hampered by thick mist; leeches were bad near SAWANG.

CONTENT:
because of equally dense mist.

(4) 14th August. CAMP NEAR SAWANG. 12 miles. West of Pang La 9000'. Path continues through dense jungle, but ascent easy to m 1 1/2 where ridge is crossed. Thence level for a while through scrub jungle, gradually becoming steeper, with a ridge on the right hand side. At m 3 it becomes steep for a short distance, then easy to m 4 1/2 where there is a cairn. We ploughed our way through mud in dense rhodo jungle for 1500'. Beyond this path is partly over rocks & partly through rhododendron jungle, easy at first then very steep final ascent to Pang La (14000') at m 5 1/2. Descent for 1/2 m easy then pretty steep, with cliff running on right hand side. At m 7 dense jungle is reached, & thence path is very bad & exceedingly steep & muddy through jungle the whole way till it emerges at m 12, the first signs of cultivation are seen. Below is the Khoma Chu, and over it SAWANG. Small camp, water & fuel good & ample. //

Pang La. 14 Aug.
Aconitum fletcherianum 462
Cremanthodium thomsonii - 461
Primula 464
Begonia josephii 466
Flora disappointing

(5) 15th August. TO SAWANG. 4 miles. 7700'. Path drops very steeply indeed through dense jungle for 2 miles to bridge over Khoma Chu (6800'). Here the path joins the main road from Lhuentse over the Yeb La. This bridge is very old & not strong. Route then ascends easily along through hot steamy forest R. bank of river to first cultivation at SAWANG. Water & fuel ample: leeches bad. //

Yesterday was about the worst day we've had. We did not have rain till about 3.0 pm when our tents were in, but there was thick mist all day, so we saw no view at all. And there should have been wonderful views from that range. The map is so completely wrong as

SUMMARY:
Notes rhododendrons and primulas in flower, sends a messenger with mail to Tsona, and interacts with the head lama while noting the death and prospective reincarnation of Drukpa Rinpoche; photographs the monastery and Rinpoche’s daughter. On 14 May travels to Zimsäthí via the nala east of Sanga'Choling, noting route details toward the Takar La.

CONTENT:
Rhododendron primulaeflorum var. cephalanthoides. 1583

Right bank, I could see Rhododendrons in full flower, and North face slopes are well wooded with fir. A primula is in flower on the river banks (1593).

13th May. Hall. Fine. A day of pretty hectic rush. As no mail had arrived here, we appointed a man to take one to Tsona for us, and hope he will bring one back. Packed up flowers and birds all day and received the head lama present. Drukpa Rinpoche is dead, and died 7 years ago. His incarnation is thought to have been found in Kham, but it is not yet known. He apparently, though so holy, was married, and has a grown daughter here, one of the prettiest Tibetan women I have seen. She hung about all day, and at last I found it was to have a photo taken, which I did, and promised to let her have one later. The monastery is very picturesque indeed in the evening light, and I took a photo this evening of it.

14th May. To Zimsäthí. 10m. BP 18.700 Temp 51° Time 2.30pm Alt. 14,135'
Road leaves up the nala just East of Sanga'Choling. It is good but pretty steep, past cultivation of kyu and on, becoming less steep. The road to the Takar La goes