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SUMMARY:
At Tso Burnag Lake Camp, the writer describes fir- and rhododendron-covered hillsides, notes deer sign, and mentions Gulla suffering severe pain after Lumsden treated his poisoned foot. The writer and Lumsden bathe in the cold lake at high altitude. On 16th August, they halt and search hillsides east of the lakes, find no new plants, and the writer briefly encounters a herd of burhel without success.

CONTENT:
neither so big nor so interesting. Hillsides well covered with fir for 500 ft. then rhododendron. Many crenophilum about, and much deer, and there are said to be kuling also. Gulla had a rotten day today. His foot is poisoned, Lumsden cut it 2 days ago, putting in a local anaesthetic in a septic wound. The result is awful pain to poor old Gulla. L. has made a mess of everything he has done in that way, and can only give iodine with safety. This afternoon, as it was sunny, Lumsden and I had a bathe in the lake, which shelves down pretty quickly just 10 yards in front of our camp. It was cold of course, though not as bad as I would have thought. The temp of the water was 51°. Swimming at 13000' is hard work, and I only went out 10 yards or so. It was lovely, especially when out!

Tso Burnag Lake Camp.
16th August. Halt. Tried the hillside to the E of the lakes. But they held nothing new, and the only gentian in any numbers was G. stictantha (?? Przewalskii), which was not yet out. I walked almost into a herd of 20 burhel, but had my eyes on a cliff. They were off at once, though I just had time to change ammunition and have two snapshots at them without doing any damage.

SUMMARY:
The diary notes collecting near Lagyap la with birds feeding on blooming rhododendrons amid rain and snow. At Tsomgo (Changu), snow was melting, coolies reported the pass fair, and a lost mule returned, though their own mules were delayed. The party moved toward Chumbi Valley to Chumpithang, disputing a bill from a Gangtok Kazi while en route to Yatung.

CONTENT:
towards Lagyap la, to collect. There is not so much snow
there also more birds are to be found. A few rhododendrons
were in bloom, & various birds - finches & sun birds were
feeding on the flowers & fertilising them. It came on to rain
& later snow at 10.15 & cleared up more or less at
2.30 pm. Since we left Calcutta on 22nd April, there has
not yet been one day wholly fine & usually part of the
day has been very wet indeed.

12th May. TSOMGO. (CHANGU). Another fine night, & snow
melting hard all day although sky overcast. A few coolies
came over the pass from Chubitang, & report road fair.
One of the mules which fell off the road seven days ago
was brought in today - very thin, but otherwise alright.
Our mules did not arrive, as they should have done. We did
little all day but pack up.

To Chumbi Valley.
13th May. CHUMPITHANG. 12600'. 10 miles. Last night was a lovely
night again, but there was no sign of the mules when we got
up at 4.30. However they arrived about 6.30 in time to let
us get away at last. The Kazi who owns the mules sent
them up late, & had the audacity to send with them a
bill for Rs. 90/-. We will of course refuse to pay, as the
contract was to take us from Gangtok to Yatung. If the
pass can't be crossed, that is none of our fault. All the
Gangtok Kazis are stinkers, but I'm afraid I will have some

SUMMARY:
The party remains near Tsomgo waiting for the pass to open, collecting near Lagyap La, with the diarist noting a likely delay in reaching Gangtok by the 21st. On 9 May at Tsomgo (Changu), most mules returned to Gangtok with Danong to seek his brother and send food; after collecting birds during a brief clear spell, two lamas—envoys of the Tashi Lama—passed with a 50‑mule caravan bound for Shigatse despite heavy snow.

CONTENT:
8
down for food for ourselves, and remain here till the pass
opens. We can collect a fair amount near Lagyap La
above - more than we could at Karponang. It is still
snowing and raining hard here. The bungalow is quite
reasonably comfortable and with plenty of rhododendron wood,
we can keep it warm. As I have to be in Gangtok
on 21st, it looks as if I would not be able to get over
the pass till after that - it would hardly be worth while.

9th May. TSOMGO (Changu). All except three mules returned to Gangtok
this morning, with Danong (Lepcha Collector) who will try to find out what
has happened to his brother, and will send up food for
us tomorrow. It was fine in the early morning, and
thawing hard, but by 8:30 rain came on. We walked
down three miles to collect some birds, and then rode home
for lunch about 12:00, when it again cleared up for an
hour. The two lamas who have come from China to
arrange or discuss about the return of the Tashi Lama
passed Tsomgo at 12:30 with a caravan of 50 mules.
They had with them a number of coolies who
are to remain with them till their caravan gets over
the pass. We thought that they would manage it, with all
these men, but shortly after they left us, the snow came
on again heavily, and now I can't see how they can
manage. If they do, we hope to also. The Tibetan is a

B. 3. contd. Two lamas, envoys of the Tashi Lama, on their way to Shigatse, pass Tsomgo with a large caravan.

SUMMARY:
Notes describe hiring a Lepcha collector named Danon, severe snow and hail at Tsomgo Tso, attempts at fishing and bird collecting, and excellent bungalow provisions. Mentions cine film of the Karponang–Tsomgo road, pressing a primula, caravans struggling in deep snow with losses, and arrangements involving Bombay and a return to Gangtok.

CONTENT:
Ludlow 6. We have a Lepcha-collector called Danon to help us with flowers. He has worked for the Botanical Survey of India and should be very helpful as he knows his flowers thoroughly and even tells us the scientific names of many.

B.1 & 2 good

inches deep. The Tsomgo Tso is free of snow except at the upper end. Ten tufted pochard on the lake. Too wet to try for trout, which were put in by Bailey. The chowkidar (watchman) says he has seen them in summer at the lower end, not at the top. These bungalows are the best I have ever seen. They are equipped with cutlery and crockery, so that one need not open up one's own.

Cine film B.2. 0-45'. Views on the Karponang-Tsomgo road as far as Lagyap La.

There are no stores, except wood. The wood used for burning is chiefly rhododendron, which gives out great heat. Hail and snow here all afternoon, looking bad for tomorrow. Pressed the first flower today - a small primula (P. gracilipes (L & S)). We are using for shooting birds, .22 rifles with dust shot and .410 bores with 2 1/2" cases of dust shot. The former will usually kill up to five yards, the latter to 25".

B.1 & 2 sent Bombay 10th May. Return to Gangtok.

7th May. TSOMGO. Still clouded this morning and fine snow falling. A caravan of mules came down this morning: they had crossed yesterday, and reported having lost two mules and a man. So we decided to stay here. Snow is about 10" deep. It has been thawing all day, but the sun can't get out for any length of time. Tried fishing this morning with fly and frogs. The water was too cold for the frog, and we saw no signs of fish. Shot a few birds. 3.0 pm. A caravan has just come in from 2 miles up the hill. They took nine hours to do the two miles, and yesterday lost two mules, and had to have 40 coolies from Chupitang to help. They report up to seven

B.2. Tsomgo dak bungalow. Tsomgo Tso. A caravan from Tibet arriving at Tsomgo having taken 9 hrs for 2 miles.

SUMMARY:
Heavy snow has closed the pass near Tsomgo, with temperatures around freezing and ongoing snowfall; film and exposure notes are recorded. On 8th May, Danong scouted towards the Natu La and reported over five feet of snow and lost mule loads, leading to plans to send mules back to Gangtok for rations. Karponang bungalow is reportedly occupied by two lamas, emissaries of the Tashi Lama, preventing use of that stop.

CONTENT:
7

feet of snow on the pass. Normally the pass is open all
year, the rhododendrons should be coming into flower here,
instead of being under 2 ft of snow as they now are. There
seems little or no hope of our crossing for some days yet.
My bad luck on passes seems to continue. Min. temp in
verandah today was 33°: maximum in verandah 45°, but
maximum outside 50°. Snow is thawing hard, but
fresh light snow continually falling. Light given by
Electrophot in open, between f 16 & 22.

Cine Film B3.
Close up of caravan man. f 8 & x.

8th May. TSOMGO. A lovely morning from sunrise till 9.0, when
mist came down and it snowed. Two men (Danong and a muleteer,
Lepcha Coleen) sent up the pass with mules to see whether we can get on tomorrow.
Ludlow and I walked down towards Lagyap La for birds - the
only collecting we can do. Found one dazed moth in the snow
on the path. 3.0 pm. Danong came back, having gone five
miles towards the Natu La. He reports that even there, the
snow is over five feet deep, and that several mules and their
loads have been lost. He thinks there is no hope of crossing
for five days anyway, and says that even with 50 coolies we
should have no hope. Karponang bungalow is occupied
we believe by two lamas, emissaries of the Tashi Lama
who is thought to be intending to return to Tibet. So we
could not go there even if we wanted to. Our idea is to
let the mules return to Gangtok for rations: send Danong

B. 3.
Tsomgo lake evening and early morning

SUMMARY:
Notes from Tsona and the ascent to the Kechar La describe entry into true Tibetan plateau country, with ravens, horned larks, mountain finches, and stunted flowers characteristic of the region. Observations include abundant plateau species and marshland birds such as Melanocorypha maxima, Montifringilla ruficollis, Grus nigricollis, and Sterna hirundo tibetana around Tsona and nearby marshes.

CONTENT:
13733
54932
14282

Tsona
BP = 186.7° Temp. 13733

Ibis 15.
July 15.
The Kechar La seems to be on the main range, for here we saw 104 =

Ibis 481 Otocorys alpestris elwesi — abundant Tibetan plateau.
Ibis 478 Fringalauda brandti haematopygia — common in suitable localities on the Tibetan Plateau.
Whilst a few miles to the north brought us to Plateau country on which
Melanocorypha maxima, Montifringilla ruficollis etc. were abundant.
Ibis 481 Melanocorypha maxima Lark — Ibis 481
Ibis 477 Montifringilla ruficollis abundant Tibetan Plateau.
On the Tsona marshes several waders were noted as well as
Ibis 503 Grus nigricollis
Ibis 502 Sterna hirundo tibetana — frequently seen — lakes & marshes of the Tibetan Plateau.

Ludlow p. 47
On the ascent to the Kechar La
we passed into true Tibetan country.
Ravens, horned larks, mountain
finches as well as numerous
stunted flowers all proclaimed the
fact that we were now in true
Tibetan plateau country.

SUMMARY:
At Tsona the party photographed locals and shared biscuits and ginger. Ludlow collected 30 Colias butterflies while the writer obtained a horned lark and noted abundant Paraquilegia; they also exchanged rupees to tankas and arranged cheap transport. Gifts including gloves, a papier-mâché bowl, Kashmir tweed, Bhutanese cloth, and saffron were gratefully received.

CONTENT:
30

have their photos taken, and would cheerfully have sat
Cine No 2 for hours for them. We gave them some of our
finished at luxuries - chocolate biscuits, ginger etc. They
Tsona - seemed thoroughly happy. Then Ludlow went out
with a butterfly net and walking stick gun for three
hours. He shot nothing as the gun seems pretty
useless over 10 yards. But he caught 30 colias
butterflies, which will certainly be very good.
Cinema I went out at 1.30 and returned at four. Got a
No 3 c. good horned lark and one flower. There are very
All at few flowers here, but Paraquilegia is finer than
Tsona I've seen anywhere. On the rocks north of camp
Flower box are dozens of clumps, some nearly 2 ft across.
On servant At Tawang we were unable to get our rupees
changed to tankas. But here we have changed
Rs 200 @ 10 tankas. The rate given is not
Contax No 3 too good. But transport here is very cheap.
finished at Pimbo arranged to hire at 2/3 tanka per load.
Tsona Yesterday we gave our presents: 1 pr gloves,
a silver lined papier-mâché bowl, a length of
Kashmir tweed, a piece of Bhutanese cloth and
some saffron. The saffron caused great
excitement, as it is very good and quite unobtainable
here. They were quite thrilled with everything.

SUMMARY:
The diarist halts at Tsona, collects and packs Paraquilegia and catches Parnassius butterflies, while dealing with staff illness and asking the Dzongpen to arrange further collection and forwarding to Sahden amid rainy, snowy weather. Delays occur when yaks fail to arrive under the Tibetan 'Tao' system, with details of payments and origins from the Mago direction. The party then camps west of Gorpa La, noting barometric readings for nearby passes and Dongkar, and a route skirting Tsona hill.

CONTENT:
57

13th August - Halt Tsona. B.P. 186.7 Temp. 58°. Spent the morning taking bits of Paraquilegia, & catching parnassius, a number of P. imperator were seen & caught, but of the others only P. epaphus. Packed the Paraquilegia in two boxes, below stones, then charcoal, then earth. Ramzana down with fever. Ahmad Sheikh now better. Always one of them seems to have it. Bagged six lots of Paraquilegia flowers, & asked the Dzongpen to arrange to collect & send on to Sahden. He promises to, but I am a little doubtful. A good deal of rain, & some fresh snow on the hills round about.

[Marginal notes: Cyananthus incanus 794, Meconopsis horridula, Clematis orientalis 797, Butterflies, Paraquilegia]

14th August. Halt at Tsona. Yaks did not turn up, so we had to wait. The system of 'Tao' in Tibet is a curse. Our yaks had to come from 2-3 days journey away in the Mago direction to take us in the opposite direction. We pay them 2 tankas a day per yak, besides which they get 3 tankas per day from the Tsona people.

[Marginal note: Gentiana aglaia 798]

15th August. Camp West of GORPA LA. 14 miles. (B.P. of Gorpa La 181.1" Temp 50°. B.P. of SANG LA. 181.9" Temp 50°. B.P. of Dongkar 188.5 Temp 58°.). If camped at Tsona village, route leaves towards the West, & skirts the Tsona hill, turning to the North, over a

SUMMARY:
At Tsona, the party hiked above camp, photographed Paraquilegia grandiflora, collected butterflies, and shot a few birds, then spent the afternoon developing and packing, leaving a dump of 11 boxes. Mail arrived after a month; Kurtip recovered, and it is noted that permission to reach the area was hard-won in Lhasa, while Pintso had exaggerated the cost of gifts given earlier.

CONTENT:
31

Most of this was genuine first-hand appreciation, but Pintso made the best of things, and told them that the bowl cost Rs 45/-. Actually it cost Rs 8/-. He compared the cloth to my Harris tweed, whereas it cost Rs 5/- for the piece of 5 yards we gave. Kurtip is a better man today. He is up and about. I don't know how he managed that trip from Shao yesterday.

18th July. Halt Tsona. Heavy rain during the night, but a good clear day. Ludlow and I went up the hill behind camp in the early morning. I took 2 good colour photos of the Paraquilegia grandiflora (No 678). We then wandered about the hillsides, and collected some good butterflies - three Parnassius and 2 or 3 Colias, - later on I shot a few birds. Spent the afternoon developing and packing up. We leave a dump of 11 boxes here till our return. Kurtip now normal again and fit enough to start off with us tomorrow for Mago. This afternoon our first mail arrived - just a month since the last. I hear from Tsona that we were lucky to get here. Rai Bahadur Norbhu had to try six times in Lhasa, the Kashag was very reluctant to grant permission. It seems the Chinese are doing

SUMMARY:
At Tsona the party halts through 13–15 April amid cold, wind, frost, and snowfall, noting numerous waterfowl on the lake and recording barometer, temperature, and altitude. Yaks are promised though there is disagreement on the route. A man arrives from Trashigang with rice from the Dzongpon and is tasked with sending mail.

CONTENT:
about 300 birds, and shot 8 without anyone being much the wiser. They are in perfect plumage. Tsona is cold and dry, with the usual strong wind blowing all day but dying down at night. With a clear sky and bright sun though it is not too bad.

13th April. Halt Tsona. A perfect morning after pretty hard frost at night. Later on it clouded over and snow fell all evening from about 3.0pm. Very cold with a strong wind. Yaks promised for tomorrow night, but they want to go a different way to the way we want. A lot of bar-headed geese, brahminy and other duck on the lake, also brown-headed gulls and black-necked crane. Very cold at night. I make B.P. here 186.8. Temp. 43° Time 1.0pm. Ht. 14,000'.

Tsona. 14th April. Halt. A dull day with nothing to do but try to keep warm.

Tsona. 15th April. Halt. It started to snow in the afternoon and continued most of the night. There were three inches of fresh snow in the morning and it was very cold. A man came up from Trashigang with a present of rice for us from the Dzongpon. We are using him to send off a mail tomorrow.