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SUMMARY:
Entries for 13 and 14 October describe wet, misty conditions around Trashidzung and Langong, limited success collecting rhododendron seed, and a pressing of P. chamaethauma, with coolies assisting and seeds dried for packing. News from Ludlow reports delays and rerouting due to the Lilung bridge collapse, with casualties and mail issues, and mentions movements via Lhacha, Tsela Dzong, and toward Kyindong/Sangachöling.

CONTENT:
74a
Oct. 13 Tsari Sama
seeds of P. chamaethauma 6603, P. morsheadiana 6604,
P. sikkimensis 6606, P. vernicosa 6607,
Swertia kantelu 6605.

far as from Trashidzung here: & that the third stage is much the same. He gives two names as on the preceding page. He also says that the path never enters Loque, but it must go very close to it.

Tsari Sama
13th October. Trashidzung. Another beastly day. Thick mist & driving rain south of the Pass, & little on this side. But as we got near Trashidzung the sun came out. From here it appears exactly the same as in camp at the Kashong La in Oct. 1936. Driving rain or snow coming over the main range, petering out in a few miles. I suppose this will last another 3 or 4 days then stop, probably with some thunder snow. I did not expect much today, but hoped for seed of a good rhododendron got from here in June. But there was not a single good capsule. We saw about a dozen tiny wee things with no seed in them. Took a pressing of P. chamaethauma on the pass & root as well. Tsari Sama would undoubtedly have been a good place in June, had I been able to do the whole circle. The coolies have done well this trip, & are always ready to come out collecting seed or whatever I want. Got all my seeds dry enough to pack up before leaving this morning, for which I am very glad. We still have a good many Lo-La - Pachakshiri rhodo seeds which need more drying.
See Ludlow's diary - Kew Journal XII 14.

14th October. Langong. Heavy rain all night & all today, with mist right down in the valley. Left at 8.30 am, in at 1.0 pm, kit in a little after 3.0 pm. One coolie left for Molo yesterday evening without giving any reason, but the others agreed to carry on his load. I had hoped to hear from Ludlow here, & did so. Tendup came up on the 5th to Molo & was leaving for Kyindong on the 7th, so should have been there on the 9th. But a man here says he would only be reaching Kyindong today. Ludlow is positive the Lilung bridge was broken down to prevent their coming up to Molo. One cannot believe a word the Molo people say, but I was told quite definitely that one man & 3 mules were drowned when it broke, & that one pony got out again. The rest of the caravan going down then, returned to Molo. Ludlow & Co had to go round by Lhacha leaving on the 5th. There was no sign of the mail between, but Ludlow had left Kesang behind at Tsela Dzong, with instructions to go on to Kyindong, if necessary to Sangachöling. So at any rate I can not hear any more till then.

SUMMARY:
The party marches down the Tsari valley, noting profuse P. calderianum on grassy flats and in forest glades near Yarap, crossing a three-span bridge to a good campsite; Pinto is ill with pain and fever. On 19th May they halt, observe typical weather, split up to mark flowers including a fritillaria (No. 1611) and a rhododendron (No. 1612).

CONTENT:
L.p. 92 This march down the Tsari valley mostly on level flats. P. calderianum in profusion both on grassy flats and in shade of Juniper forest.

The grassy hillslopes were covered for areas of nearly 100 yards square. But the prettiest sight was when it was massed in glades in parts of forest not far above Yarap. There it really was most beautiful. Some of the plants were magnificent ones. I counted on one particular plant with one stem, no less than 48 blooms. Of these nearly half had petals coming in place of the anthers. Unfortunately I was unable to get a photo of this. A three span bridge is crossed here and a good camping ground just over the bridge on the R. bank. C.G.'s are everywhere available and good though. Pinto has been very seedy for the last day or two and is laid up with much pain and some fever.

19th May Halt. Another fine day, with some thunder in the afternoon. The weather is always much the same, when fine. Beautiful evenings and mornings with a storm up the valley in the middle of the day. We split up today. I went up the hillside opposite camp and marked some flowers, the bulbs of which we want to collect. It is a fritillaria, No. 1611. Rhod 1612 (pudorosum) is a beautiful tree, but...

SUMMARY:
The diarist negotiates transport with the Dzongpon, notes low rates, and plans to cross by ferry near Chamna and go over the Temu La, with observations on weather and local birds. On 18 Dec at Dzeng, Betty and the diarist travel with a small party, crossing the river by ferry opposite Chamna, where the headman recalls their 1938 visit.

CONTENT:
cloth, while he returned with a skin covered box - atta. We bought from the Dzongpon at 11 sangs a lump, chari at 15. Rice with container (30 sangs) at 105 - atta & tsampa, with container at 63. When the Dzongpon came here, he asked to see the lamyig, but he ignored the 12 sang rate quoted in it & said we had 'tse te' transport, the rate of which was 4 shokangs per riding & 2 shokangs per donkey etc. This is lower than we ever expected to have to pay, right back to our 1938 level. He has ordered our transport - ponies - they should be off tomorrow. The plan is to go by tru from near Chamna, then over the Temu La. Wind has been bad here till yesterday. The day we arrived, the weather began to change, & clouds came at night. The result was a high wind - always downstream, from 2.30 pm, followed by clouds in the evening & cloudy nights with very high temperature at night. Yesterday it cleared completely & the temp went right down, while there was no wind. We have been out for birds & got good ones of great interest. All are now interesting as showing what are residents here. Lophobasileus elegans is the best. 'Chang-tsai' are here & we shot 3 yesterday. Parrots & crossbills seen, but not yet shot. What we really want now is a sparkling day on the Temu La, so as to be able to see Namcha & Gyala Peri - the latter of which should be a more striking view. From Tsela Dzong one can only see a little of the Namcha group, over the Temu La Range.

18th Dec. Dzeng. Left at 9.0: in at 3.0 pm. We suddenly decided yesterday evening that Betty & I should go on with the goro ponies which had arrived. So we packed up the minimum stuff & came on today. Our party is Tsongpon, Kancha, Akong & ourselves. We have a total now of 4 coolies & 11 ponies. The ferry (tru) is almost opposite Chamna, 5 m. E. of Tse & the river at the ferry is about 200 yds wide. Crossing takes about 1/2 hour per trip there & back. The headman here remembers us from 1938, & seems

SUMMARY:
Notes list Kodachrome slide subjects and routes, seeds dispatched from Tsetang via Lhasa to G.T. on 14 November 1946, and kowa transport costs from Gongkar Dz to Tsetang. Minimum temperatures are recorded for Gongkar, Chitishio, Camp, and Tsetang from 8–14 November 1946, with additional place references noted.

CONTENT:
7

Kodachrome 3. Nangkartse to Khamka La. } Sent from Tsetang. 14.11.46.
Kodachrome 4 K. Trombo to Chitishio. }

Seed of Gent. Waltoni.
Prim. Jaffreyana
Incarvillea Younghusbandii. Sent from Tsetang 14.11.46. via Lhasa to G.T.
Incarvillea Lutea
Oxytropis sp. - silver leaves

Kowas from Gongkar Dz to Tsetang cost 105 sangs each. 175 was first asked, but this we refused. Paid tip of 10 sangs to each man on arrival at Tsetang.

TEMPS
Min temp at Gongkar 16° F. 8.11.46
Min temp at Chitishio 16° F 9.11.46
Min temp at Camp. 11.11.46. 26° F. 11.11.46
Min temp at Tsetang. 24° F. 12.11.46.
Min temp at Tsetang. 30° F. 13.11.46. (In tent 35°)
Min temp at Tsetang. 11° F. 14.11.46.

Kodachrome 5. Sunset Chitishio.
Darya Tra.
Lhashari.
near Lenda.

SUMMARY:
While halted at Tsetang, the party sent Pimbo back to Gonkar to recover 11 boxes of kit, which he found near Chora. They met the Ladakhi trader Ata Ulla, who spoke about Bailey, showed bird eggs from near Lhagyari, and helped procure a sheep. On 26 March they marched to Rong (Rongchaka) Dzong with poor bullock transport, and the writer suffered a minor fall from a pony.

CONTENT:
Atta Ulla Khan, a Ladakhi merchant trading in Tsetang

Kongka reluctantly to send Pimbo back to Gonkar to find out what has happened. That may mean a four or more days stay in this filthy place. This has made us vow not to stay in any more houses now. They really are too dirty for words. On arrival here we saw Ata Ulla, an old Ladakhi trader who has been here for 30 years or more. He lives here with a few other Mohammedans—all of whom dress as Tibetans, and all of whom are despised by our own servants. However I am sending Culla and Daud to see them today. Tsetang is quite a picturesque place from a distance, with two red and brown gompas and all the rest of the houses whitewashed. The village lies under a hillside, faces north. There are more trees than we have seen elsewhere—all willows and poplars, the poplars being in many cases very old and fine trees. The river narrows a great deal here. We are told kowas can go down another day's march, but are not advised to use them further.

24th March. Halt Tsetang. We had to halt here to allow the 11 boxes of kit left behind to be found.

25th March. Halt Tsetang. Pimbo went back yesterday 24th to look for it, and luckily found it before reaching Chora. He returned at 6:00 pm with the kit. These two days have been beastly. The wind and dust are perfectly awful and everything gets full of sandy dust. We have seen a good deal of Ata Ulla who begs us to come and talk each day. It is really a question of listening to him talk about Bailey. He showed us two eggs, properly blown, of what he said were crossoptilon from near Lhagyari, 5 others of which he gave to Bailey. And he told us all about Bailey giving him a gun for which he had a few cartridges. With great difficulty we have got a sheep for Rs 2/12. They don't like killing them this month they say, but seem to do it themselves all the same. Ata Ulla has been a great help in this way.

26th March. Rong (Rongchaka) Dzong. 14 miles. A lovely day, but spoilt by the awful transport. With some difficulty we got the transport to turn up early and were off by 7:45. But it was nearly all bullocks, and our boxes suffered very badly. Although a good path and only 14 miles, the last dozen loads only got in at 7:45 pm—12 hours for 14 miles. I only rode a short way, but when I did mount, the pony went off splitarse, fell on its head and threw me over its neck. I was lucky in being on a good bit of path and only skinned my finger badly, and dislocated the...

SUMMARY:
Arrived at Tsetang and were welcomed by trader Pedong Dorji, who may help secure mules for travel to Dongkar Dz and assist with arrangements. News from Lhasa describes a serious conflict with arrests, including Reting Rimpoche, Phunkhang Shape, and others, rumors of Reting’s death, and weapons taken to Sera; Reting was reportedly imprisoned in the Tse Potala.

CONTENT:
11th May: Tsetang. We were off in good time at 7.0 & in at 1.0, being met by Pedong Dorji, a half Sikkimese who used to live in Pedong, who now trades here. He asked us to his house, & in spite of all, I accepted, as we hope that he will be able to produce mules to take us to Dongkar Dz. At any rate he will certainly be of the greatest help to us in making arrangements. Since Lhagyari we have heard more news of the war in Lhasa, it seems to have been a pretty serious affair. Although said to be over now, it is not all over, as the fate of many people has yet to be decided. Reting Rimpoche is arrested, so is Phunkhang Shape. Phunkhang Se was also arrested, but he has now been released though he has lost official status altogether. Sadutshang's eldest brother is another, he is in a bad way, as his monk brother is said to have taken all the rifles from S's house to Sera for the fight. It seems that Halu & Surkhang Shape got Reting to come to Lhasa by saying that the old Regent had called him to take over power. He came and was imprisoned in the Tse Potala. A man came through from Lhasa today, he says Reting is dead. He had become seriously involved because they found copies of letters to the Chinese when he was arrested. It is difficult to find out how many were killed. Here reports

SUMMARY:
Diary entries record travel from Tsetang through Rong Dzong, Lhagyari, Lasor and Lhapso to Lenda, with delays due to slow transport and negotiations over animal hire rates. Notes include hospitality from local officials and the Jetsung Kusho’s sister, and botanical observations of Gentiana waltonii and Androsace with seed collected.

CONTENT:
15th Nov. Rong Dzong. Left Tsetang camp at 9.20 & Tsetang at 10.0. In at 4.0 pm. Last kit, on bullocks, in at 6.0 pm. A fine still day. We had long arguments about passports with the Tsetang Dzongpon's scribe - a nasty man. At last he let us go when we paid sangs 3 per donkey & 7 per pony. This was at any rate very much better than our passport rate of 6 & 12.

16th Nov. Lhagyari Dz. Left at 9.0 am: in at 5.0 pm. Only half the kit got in last night. Remainder is not even all in at 10.0 this morning. The distance, given by Bailey at 16 miles, seems much nearer 20 miles. We all agree on this. I suggested we pay 2 sangs per donkey & 4 per pony at Rong. This was cheerfully agreed to by the headmen & Dzongpon's "trap". As a result of the slow transport, we cannot leave here on 17th. Coming up the valley there was a good deal of G. Waltoni & two sp. of Androsace, seed of one of which I took. The Jetsung Kusho here has gone to Lhasa, but her sister is very good to us, & has produced all we need for dinner, including food, plates etc., as our kitchen stuff had not come in.

17th & 18th Nov. HALT. We were unable to get transport in time to leave even on 18th, but most of the kit went then to a village 3 miles short of the Potrang La.

19th Nov. Lasor. Left at 7.30: in at 5.0 pm. Kit which left with us got in at 9.0 pm.

20th Nov. Lhapso Dz. An easy day of only 7 miles. Cloud came up by midday & it was dull the rest of the day. The Lhapso Dzongpon was very good to us. He had been personally to Lasor the day before & produced everything we wanted.

21st Nov. Lenda. Left at 7.50: in at 2.45: transport 3.30 to 4.0 pm. Coolies & transport were very good though hardly halted anywhere. The Lhapso Dzongpon arrangements were very good indeed.

SUMMARY:
Notes a ruined iron chain bridge below Tsetang and a night spent in a newly renewed but empty Dzong. The party travels to Lagyari/Lhagyari, halts for transport arranged by a helpful ruling nun, then crosses the Potrang La to Lasor, recording birds and early-season botanical observations.

CONTENT:
27 March Ludlow 22. "No European seems to have travelled this stage. Bailey avoided it - p. 313 F.K.W. u. 1924."

top joint & hurt my wrist. It might have been much worse. There are still the remains of an old iron chain suspension bridge.

Chain bridge 1 1/2 m below Tsetang - two huge piles of rocks & two chains still hanging down from one.

No one was in the Dzong which had just been renewed, so we spent the night in it, & were very comfortable. The Tsangpo here takes a very sharp 100° turn to the North. (70 13100' see Ludlow p. 22-23.)

27th March. Lagyari. 15 miles. Perfect weather & v. hot. Started at 7.0 am, in at 4.0 pm. Transport mostly bullock, & again many boxes badly damaged. Half way up we came across geese & shot three. Also saw a Sheldrake & some pintail, mallard & teal. Lagyari is a lovely place: Dzong & monastery on the edge of a cliff on the river bank, & beautiful wooded flats below, in which we are camped. They threaten to keep us here a day, but we still hope for the best. Ludlow has gone to the Dzong to call for both of us. There are no flowers out here yet, though Iris (ensata?) is 1" above ground & there is a very small gentian showing flowers here & there. P. tibetica not yet in flower. This place seems independent of Lhasa & is ruled, & ruled well by a nun.

28th March. Halted Lhagyari. Fine. As ponies could not be produced in time, we had to halt. However the nun gave orders for donkeys & bullocks to come today & take on as much kit as we could spare - about 28 loads. The remainder will be carried by mules & ponies tomorrow. We lunched today in the gompa, a beautifully clean place. The nun is a fine looking woman, related to many people of importance - of some importance herself. She was very friendly & helpful. From here to Tsona is only 4 days march, so this might be a good way home. There is little snow of course up here in winter.

29th March. Lasor (12,200' ap). 16 miles. Beautiful day. Left at 7.15 am, in at 4.0 pm. The ascent to the Potrang La (16500 ft) is steeper than we expected. Gradually the hills become more vegetated, & there are many dwarf junipers & a small Rhododendron near the top. But the East side shows a more marked contrast, & the rainfall on the E must be very considerably more than on the West. From the very top, it is apparent. Rhododendron covers the hillside (R. lepidotum). Among these we saw many old stalks of Primula - P. macrophylla(?) & P. sikkimensis. There are also gentians, these seen being much too early for flowers on the north side of the main range & at this altitude.

SUMMARY:
The diarist reflects on gentians, noting color variation of G. amoena between dry and wet zones, and describes the variable weather around Tso Bunang. At Tso Bunang Lake Camp, they halted as Danong and Tenduk returned from the Tahar La trip with supplies, including gentians from the pass such as Swertia handelii and G. nankeenis.

CONTENT:
Przewalskii 2015 2033
nankeenis 2054 - Swertia 624
otophoroides 2073 147
Otophara 2092
algida 2098
2063 orange-white

Gentians
Last night I was thinking of the gentians we had seen, and where we had seen them, and it certainly appears that all the creamy ones come from the dry zone, or at any rate the transition zone. Wilkie describes G. amoena as light colored, but sometimes blue all over. As far as I have seen, it is common up here, it is always white or cream in the dry zone, or N. of the main range. We collected it twice S. of the range, in the wet zone, once at the Ma-ha once at Sanden, in each case it was a beautiful rich blue.

Tso Bunang is a curious place. All yesterday the S. lake was in shadow, the E. side was in rain, our camp half in sun with a little rain, and the hill to the N. at the end of the lakes in sun all day.

Tso Bunang Lake Camp
17th August. Halt. Found nothing here. Danong and Tenduk came back from the Tahar La trip. They brought some food stuff.

Among the best were three gentians from the top of the pass.
Swertia handelii G. nankeenis
20

SUMMARY:
At Tso Bunang Lake Camp, the writer questions K.W.’s purported new plant and notes a yellow rhododendron; Tenduk arrives unwell and is found to have gonorrhoea contracted in 1934 at Cyanbe. On 18 August they remain in camp developing photos and repairing gear amid mixed weather. On 19 August the writer explores west while Danzing collects notable gentians and a delphinium from the Changchu La toward Senguti, and Ludlow secures a second specimen of a new bird.

CONTENT:
148

K.W.'s new one, though I have my doubts, 2078: a yellow Rhododendron 2085 (R. wardii 2085). Tenduk arrived with fever and not looking at all well. After a lot of talk we found he had got gonorrhoea, contracted while with us in 1934 at Cyanbe. It is not too bad, and hope will answer to treatment.

Tso Bunang Lake Camp
18th August. Halt. I stayed in camp all day and developed photos, mended boxes and repacked stores. Each day we have had some rain and some sun, always overcast.

Tso Bunang Lake Camp
19th August. Halt. I went up the hills to the west, but saw little but what appears to be a gentian very like Waltoni (See Aug. 20), No. 2097 (Gen. tianshanica), and one which may be G. stictantha again 2099 (G. przewalskii 2099). I sent Danzing up the valley leading to Senguti, to a pass called the Changchu La. It usually rains up there, so I thought it might contain some different varieties. It did, and he got a fine gentian, which I hope may turn out to be new. It is a white one with blue markings outside, and very long lobes which open right out, 2092 (G. otophora 2092). He also got another gentian which we have not yet seen, 2095 (Lomatogonium deltoideum 2095), and a pretty delphinium, of a very rich deep blue purple colour, 2096 (Delphinium viscosum). Ludlow got a second specimen of a new bird today. It looks very much like a