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This page contains only the notation '(3)', likely indicating a page or section number.

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(3)

SUMMARY:
After descending about 1000 ft and collecting butterflies, the party reached Dongkar where a load fell off a bridge; Purbo later recovered the tent two miles downstream after nearly drowning. They enjoyed fine views and a garden-like camp, noted abundant Delphinium grandiflora and borage, observed Ramzana’s meagre condition after fever at Tsuna, and outlined transport changes from Bhutan via Mago toward the Cho La and Shingbe.

CONTENT:
about 1000 ft down, then after catching more butterflies, went on to Dongkar. At the bridge we heard that one load had fallen off on the bridge and was washed away. Purbo was after it though. About four or five hours later he returned with the tent. He thought nothing of having nearly been drowned getting it - two miles downstream in deep rapid water. The views from Dongkar were lovely, looking both up and down stream. A camp had been prepared for us in a lovely little "garden", with poplar, juniper and buckthorn trees. Everyone glad to get here. Ramzana very meagre, but probably only due to height and the effects of his fever the day we left Tsuna. Delphinium grandiflora is in profusion here, and borage. Otherwise there is not much now, though there must have been a little earlier. A little lower down the valley looks very good indeed from both flower and bird points of view. We are having many changes in transport. First coolies and ponies in Bhutan. Then yaks for loads and to ride to Mago. Then yaks and ponies. Now we hear that we must take on cattle - as ponies cannot go by the Cho La to Shingbe. There were a

[Marginal notes:]
Ludlow p. 92
D. grandiflorum has produced a large and blue flower in a water garden in a garden from Bhutan.
From grass carpets with blue Delphinium flowers, wild aster etc. form a delightful sward.
We both fell in love with Dongkar.

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This page only shows the page number 64 and contains no diary text.

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64

SUMMARY:
The party halts at Dongkar amid showers, hosts the Tsona Dzongpon who enjoys cigarettes and Cointreau, and arranges to send him a Rhoorki chair from Calcutta. Notes mention Bhutanese traders from Trashiyangsi, glacier views near the Gorpa La with a route to Gor, and botanical finds including a notable gentian (Lomatogonium spathulatum) and other species.

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62

number of Bhutanese here from Trashiyangsi today - trading.

Note. The glaciers on the hills to the north of the Gorpa La are extensive, and certainly show from Dongkar through an angle of 68° Mag to 98° Mag. There is a route down the valley from the Gorpa La to the village of Gor. A few peas are grown in Dongkar.

17th August. Halt at Dongkar. A good day with some showers, but lovely in between. We had some pretty heavy rain in the night, and a good deal came in through the tent, which is otherwise magnificent. The Tsona Dzongpon called and stayed an hour. He was given a tin of cigarettes on the quiet and was very pleased with them. Later on he asked for a drink of something warming! And he a lama. He was given a glass of Cointreau, and judging by the noise made, thoroughly enjoyed it. He sat in my Rhoorki chair and was so pleased with that too, that we are going to send one from the Army & Navy in Calcutta. Found a few flowers, but only one of interest, a fine gentian growing in very dry stony ground. (834). It must be near that found on the Thuka La by Dansey near Lingmathang, though the habitat is so entirely...

[Margin Notes:]
Donkhar 17/Aug
Lomatogonium spathulatum sp. nov. 834
Potentilla 835.
Adenophora smithii 836
Pedicularis rhinanthoides var. labellata 837
Primula sikkimensis 838
Picris spinulosa 839

Lomatogonium spathulatum sp. nov. 834

SUMMARY:
The page records altitude calculations for Cha La and Camp Rong, and notes on Tsuk village on the left bank of the Tsuk Chu. It mentions ascending the Cha La pass, passing the Chöde, and descending to Chukar, with a reference to a story of Guru Rinpoche.

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18

Dunkar - 58

14584 729.20 = 15313' Chala 185.20 55° Mean of 2 1.05
729
15313
12998 650.90 = 13648' Camp Rong. 188.0 55 " = 56 = 1.05
650
13648

Ludlow p. 94 na Tsuk - a fair sized
village situated on the left bank of the Tsuk Chu
surrounded by barley fields.
From Tsuk ascended the Cha La pass - the highest pass.
N.B. story of Guru Rinpoche p. 95.
Past the Chöde descent to Chukar. L. 96.

SUMMARY:
Notes abundant Delphinium grandiflorum and a large Aconite, with Plumbago absent here but expected lower down. Describes travel from the Dzong across the Nyamjang Chu, along the right bank to the Tsuk Chu and up to the customs village of Tsuk, then ascending toward the Cha La. Mentions reports on the road to Shingbe and contrasts the friendliness of Dongkar people with the rudeness in Tsuna.

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63

Different. Delphinium grandiflorum abounds, there is a big Aconite here not seen before (827). The Plumbago so much wanted, which we collected at Lhakang last year is not to be seen here, but I think it should be found lower down, if we go far enough. They say four days from here to Shingbe, the road is reported as bad & difficult. The people of Dongkar are much pleasanter than in Tsuna. Here they may come & stare, but purely through idle curiosity, whereas the Tsuna people are boorishly rude.

CHUKAR in RONG CHU VALLEY.
18th August. Camp 13648' 7 miles. (BP of CHA LA 185.2° Temp 55° BP Rong 188.0° Temp 55°). Cross the Nyamjang Chu by the bridge just below the Dzong to the left bank. Path keeps some height up the left bank, is easy to m 1 1/2 where it recrosses to the R bank by a bridge at a gorge. The valley here is very narrow indeed steep sided. Proceed down R bank to m 2 where the TSUK CHU comes in from the west. Path leads up this — a very small stream — not as shown on the map — to TSUK m 2 1/2 a customs village with a good deal of cultivation. Thence south up a pretty steep ascent to the CHA LA at

SUMMARY:
This page contains only the page number 62 with no readable diary content.

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62

SUMMARY:
The party descends from the Cha La on the south side to the village of Chukar, observing weather shifts and cloud over the pass. Notes include Dongkar as part of the Tibetan dry zone, a transition near the Trak Chu with dwarf and small rhododendrons, and many pink Meconopsis horridula; Kuntip is ill while Ramzana is recovering.

CONTENT:
On the south side path does not follow the valley bed but keeps up to the right, descending gradually to a shoulder at m. 5. Over this the large Rong Chu can be seen below. Descent steep over rocky path and under high precipices to the small village of CHUKAR at m. 7.11.

A good day again. Fine till the Cha La then misty, but little rain. Very dull later on. Kuntip is pretty ill again and don't know what the matter is. He has awful pains in the neck and body and his tummy isn't right. I doubt if we will all be well till we get home again. Ramzana is recovering and looks happier today. Dongkar is quite definitely the Tib. dry zone. But two miles downstream one meets the Trak Chu, and that valley shows the beginning of the "Transition Zone". There are dwarf rhododendrons and also some ordinary, if small, rhododendrons too. Then at the Cha La we were still in sun on the N side, while from the south a sea of cloud mist was being blown up. It topped the pass and then seemed to fade away. Immediately we crossed the pass we knew we were in a good place for flowers. It is curious how many pink mec. horridula there are about here - from Tsona to Mago to a certain extent, but more so.

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SUMMARY:
The diarist records finding three beautiful primulas growing under overhanging rocks near the CHO LA/Tulung La and photographing them despite late-afternoon mist. The route is said not to have been previously travelled by Europeans and is famed as the path by which Lobpön Rimpoché entered Tibet from India, with a note that CHO LA should likely be written as CHÖ.

CONTENT:
from Tsona to Dongkar were here. Besides M. horridula there were a number of the Tulung La little meconopsis. Two gentians were in seed and were collected on the CHO LA. Down this side we both thought of Prim. eburnea, and within a few minutes came across it. It was growing in a typical situation, under overhanging rocks and in clefts of rocks. It is certainly a beauty. Beside it, in even more pronounced clefts and more under overhanging rocks, was a, to us, new primula. It is also a beauty, very delicate and very sweet scented. It looks like a greenhouse cineraria. With these two again in similar situations, was a third primula — the Seti primula collected on the way to Mago. All three are beauties and all three grow in the same habitat. I took photos of all, but it was late — 4:00 pm by our time — and the mist was low which was very difficult. Results reasonably good.

For other reasons this is an interesting route. It has not been travelled before by Europeans. It is famed as the route by which Lobpön Rimpoché entered Tibet from India when he introduced Buddhism to Tibet. He stopped between the CHO LAs. For that reason the CHO LA should probably be written CHÖ, meaning "religious".