SUMMARY:
The diarist reports hiring a new Khampa servant named Kesang, a difficult crossing of the broken bridge at Shona where Jill fell, and short, largely uneventful marches. In Paka they met an exiled Tibetan from Lhasa who assisted with transport arrangements, and later heavy rains delayed travel toward Samo; a coolie from Lando reportedly drowned while fording the river.
CONTENT:
all the armed men he could collect, all with swords except two, who had old flint guns. Nothing seen today - a short march and a dull one. We have made a new servant, a nice Khampa called Kesang, who went to the Tumba with us, and has left his master says he wants to come with us anywhere we like, to do anything we want. He is a cheery soul and a good worker. Bridge at Shona broken and only crossed with difficulty. Jill fell off it.
13th July. PAKA. 10 1/2 miles. Mostly fine, but clouded all day, with one or two showers. I decided to come on here today as the distance is so short, and wait a day here so that coolie arrangements can be made. Nothing much of interest seen today. Here there is a Tibetan from Lhasa, from where he was probably turned out some years ago. He seems a good fellow and out to help. I called on him this evening, and go to lunch with him tomorrow. He promises to help with transport, which is a useful thing to do. There are many mulberry trees on the way here, the fruit being just about ripe.
14th July. Halt. Rained most of the night, fine with no sun today. Most of my time has been taken up by the local resident here. I have not got his name yet, but his father was evidently much in favour in the Dalai Lama's time, and so was he. At his death though, his father had his eyes put out, and the son was banished from Lhasa, and has been living in this area ever since. He seems to hope to get back again when the new Dalai Lama is discovered. I lunched with him today, and have to go again this evening, which is a sore trial. He is not a very thrilling host, especially with Kusho as interpreter. The owner of the house in which he lives is a nice youth. He seems intelligent too, but I have not been able to see much of him. He promises his ponies when we come back from up the valley, and when we are on our way back to Molo too. BP. of Paka 194.8' Temp 72° Time 10.0 am. Ht 10012.4'.
15th July. Camp. SAMO. To AR. 8 miles. A very wet night, and heavy rain all day today, clouds very low. We hoped to be off early this morning, or think would have been, but for the rain. Last night's rain must have been particularly heavy up the valley, as the river this morning was very full and dirty. Seven coolies were to come from Lando - across the river - and the others from Paka and Kangka. When the Lando ones came, there were only five, and when asked what had happened they very calmly said that as three of them were fording the river together, one was washed away and drowned. At any rate he fell in and they never saw him again, so he must be a goner. The lost man was a bit of a lunatic. I
